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Quality Chuffing Articles (Read 92900 times)

jwi

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#375 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
September 20, 2018, 05:03:07 pm
Nina Caprez writes about a meltdown on Tough Enough

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Climbing has this ability of showing us what is really going on inside of us, of bringing our ego to the light, and thatís often painful. I was realizing that in the end I had not really faced this challenge as directly and bravely as I thought I had. I had, in fact, avoided the harder routes whenever I was not convinced deep inside that I would succeed. I had let myself go a little easier than I thought and not learned to deal with not reaching the top. My climbing achievements seemed to all have been called in advance and I had surfed on the satisfaction of sending pitches and making that top anchor clip.

https://blog.arcteryx.com/a-place-of-contrasts/


cheque

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#376 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
September 20, 2018, 07:06:25 pm
Enjoyed that.

SA Chris

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#377 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
September 26, 2018, 05:08:11 pm
http://www.climbing.co.za/2018/09/africa-amphitheatre-an-historic-big-wall-on-table-mountain/

Interesting history lesson, with a bit of "Long Hardish and Mostly Free" thrown in.

jwi

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#378 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 05:01:13 pm
A list of the 24 hardest long routes in the world. Hardest individual pitch seems to have been the overarching principle, which explains the extremely haphazard look (Dawn Wall not #1, even though it is obviously the hardest long route in the world etc.) Some of the routes are not very long either.

Anyway, interesting list, as they go.

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/las-24-vias-largas-mas-duras-del-mundo/

Teaboy

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#379 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 06:29:05 pm
Interesting article, I'm curious why you say "Dawn Wall not #1, even though it is obviously the hardest long route in the world etc."

I've no way of knowing but certainly in terms of the numbers it doesn't look cut and dried in favour of Dawn Wall (the opposite really). Its not like the logistics are simple in Getu cave, especially considering how practised someone like Tommy Caldwell is getting himself established on any part of El Cap to work pitches. Edu Marin is not without pedigree and it took him ages. Did Edu Marin do his route in one push, surely its physically more demanding to do a couple of successive days of continuous roof climbing than relatively slabby climbing - although I guess the sun takes a lot out of you on El Cap.

Not looking for an argument, obviously, just interested.

teestub

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#380 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 06:52:18 pm
i guess Edu spends as much time on horizontal limestone as Tommy does on polished granite!

I think last time this came up Dawn Wall had the advantage in depth of hard pitches?


jwi

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#381 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 08:02:51 pm
380m on bolts: feasible in a day if most pitches are within your onsight grade.
900m on mixed complicated shit + iffy gear: not feasible in a day even if most pitches are totally trivial difficulty wise.

Come on, this is not complicated, anyone who's done a reasonable amount of long routes knows this.

Teaboy

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#382 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 08:28:12 pm
380m on bolts: feasible in a day if most pitches are within your onsight grade.
900m on mixed complicated shit + iffy gear: not feasible in a day even if most pitches are totally trivial difficulty wise.

There are a couple of things to say about this though...

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Come on, this is not complicated, anyone who's done a reasonable amount of long routes knows this.

...but not sure I'm up for another patronising burn.

jwi

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#383 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 08:56:48 pm
Maybe I'm missing something? If I just remove one full number grade from all pitches on both routes (so that the grades have some form of meaning to me), and factor in the length and the seriousness of the routes it seems obvious which one looks a lot easier on paper? Bon, repeats of Valhalla and further repeats of Dawn Wall are surely forthcoming and should give indications.

Wood FT

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#384 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 09:16:18 pm
Canít we just decide all this on which one looks better?

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#385 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
July 17, 2019, 10:26:26 pm
Canít we just decide all this on which one looks better?

Valhalla is shite and vulgar, so that can't possibly be number 1

spidermonkey09

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#386 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
March 26, 2020, 08:17:14 am
http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-yorkshire-triple-crown-probably.html

Enjoyed this from Mike Owen about the Yorkshire Triple Crown. I was planning to try and finish this off this summer...maybe next year!

Whats the gossip around Geoff Weigand and The Groove that he dances around?

SA Chris

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#387 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
March 26, 2020, 09:40:51 am
From jwi's article I've decided the Ratikon triple crown onsight is the one I'm aiming for.

SA Chris

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#388 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
April 09, 2020, 02:30:39 pm
http://samountain.co.za/back-issues/

SA Mountain magazine are releasing all back issues online, if anyone wants some SIKE!

mark20

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#389 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 21, 2020, 06:46:33 pm
From Mick Ward, about British climbing in the 60s,
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_vector_generation-12796

andy popp

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#390 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 21, 2020, 07:56:40 pm
From Mick Ward, about British climbing in the 60s,
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_vector_generation-12796

That's pretty good. The sixties does seem to be regarded as a kind of lull between the 50s and the 70s. Mick does a good job of making the case here. There was a superb article by Les Holliwell, I think, called, I think, "Llech Ddu, Lawrie, and Me," in either Crags or Mountain, that gave me a great insight into this period. I would guess the Holliwells would be almost completely forgotten now.

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#391 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 08:51:25 am
Quote
Whats the gossip around Geoff Weigand and The Groove that he dances around?

I think its where several house martins nests were removed as they were in the way...Ö

edit - just found the piece, not sure if its about Malham or the above as I think that was at Kilnsey..
« Last Edit: May 22, 2020, 09:00:08 am by Fatboyslimfast2 »

Will Hunt

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#392 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 09:25:41 am
What was the story here?

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Closer to home, scandal erupted in The Sunday Times with a well researched article by Peter Gillman. This alleged that a considerable number of new routes in Snowdonia were bogus. While nobody wanted to risk pushing the perpetrator over the edge, equally there was a duty to inform prospective ascensionists that these routes were almost certainly still unclimbed and the grades little more than guesswork.

petejh

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#393 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 09:44:17 am
The history section of the Groundup Gogarth guide mentions this.
A 'Mr X' of the Apollo Club claimed 26 new routes around the N.Wales area, including 4 on the Upper Tier at Gogarth, in 1967/68. All found to be bogus. It was also known as 'the McAllum Affair'.

''Nothing has been heard of Mr X since 1968''.
 :boxing:


Will Hunt

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#394 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 09:56:21 am
There was a bit of that around Yorkshire limestone. In the 80s/90s I think. Some routes had been claimed around Attermire by one P.G..
Berzins and Sowden (I'd have to check) were on the crag on the day in question and didn't see the climber in question. The routes were climbed properly and given names like White Lies.

webbo

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#395 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 09:59:43 am
PG also claimed a lot of stuff in Lancashire and a couple of things at Ilkley.

andy popp

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#396 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 10:40:10 am
The history section of the Groundup Gogarth guide mentions this.
A 'Mr X' of the Apollo Club claimed 26 new routes around the N.Wales area, including 4 on the Upper Tier at Gogarth, in 1967/68. All found to be bogus. It was also known as 'the McAllum Affair'.

''Nothing has been heard of Mr X since 1968''.
 :boxing:

If I remember, most of them were very futuristic and not actually climbed until much later and at grades no-one was climbing in the late 60s.

duncan

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#397 Re: Quality Chuffing Articles
May 22, 2020, 10:42:33 am
From Mick Ward, about British climbing in the 60s,
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_vector_generation-12796

I enjoyed the article though I'm not convinced the 60s was more than a period of consolidation. Like the 90s, the drugs and music were too good and there was too much prosperity for an advance in climbing standards!

Grant Farquhar's magnificent The White Cliff is required reading if you're interested in this era. It gives much more background to the Holliwells than I ever knew. The McCallum affair is described in detail. A number of new routes were claimed - most notably four at Gogarth - which seemed implausible given their uncleaned state, ability of the first ascensionist, and his vagueness about partners. Ken Wilson wanted to call them out but a libel case would have bankrupted the fledgling Mountain Magazine. The wider world had a surprising level of interest in rock climbing at the time, there were a number TV programmes most famously Joe Brown et al on The Old Man of Hoy which I remember taking hours of TV over a weekend. Wilson and journalist/climber Peter Gillman were thus able to interest The Sunday Times (growing in reputation as an investigative newspaper under Harold Evans) who gave the story a big splash. This might seem like a sledgehammer to crack a nut but it helped make Wilson's reputation and gave him the confidence to confront Maestri over the much bigger fraud on Cerro Torre.

 

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