Climbing has this ability of showing us what is really going on inside of us, of bringing our ego to the light, and thatís often painful. I was realizing that in the end I had not really faced this challenge as directly and bravely as I thought I had. I had, in fact, avoided the harder routes whenever I was not convinced deep inside that I would succeed. I had let myself go a little easier than I thought and not learned to deal with not reaching the top. My climbing achievements seemed to all have been called in advance and I had surfed on the satisfaction of sending pitches and making that top anchor clip.
380m on bolts: feasible in a day if most pitches are within your onsight grade.900m on mixed complicated shit + iffy gear: not feasible in a day even if most pitches are totally trivial difficulty wise.
Come on, this is not complicated, anyone who's done a reasonable amount of long routes knows this.
Canít we just decide all this on which one looks better?
From Mick Ward, about British climbing in the 60s, https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_vector_generation-12796
Whats the gossip around Geoff Weigand and The Groove that he dances around?
Closer to home, scandal erupted in The Sunday Times with a well researched article by Peter Gillman. This alleged that a considerable number of new routes in Snowdonia were bogus. While nobody wanted to risk pushing the perpetrator over the edge, equally there was a duty to inform prospective ascensionists that these routes were almost certainly still unclimbed and the grades little more than guesswork.
The history section of the Groundup Gogarth guide mentions this.A 'Mr X' of the Apollo Club claimed 26 new routes around the N.Wales area, including 4 on the Upper Tier at Gogarth, in 1967/68. All found to be bogus. It was also known as 'the McAllum Affair'.''Nothing has been heard of Mr X since 1968''.
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