[chappers]

anybody (probs Greg).
Standing infront of Bad Moon but facing the other way (towards sea) there are two boulders away and up right, both with slabs on their main faces.

the lower boulder has a crack on its other face, leading to some slopers and a long reach to a side pull to the top, is this on the topo? cant find it!
did it from sit down yesturday, what grade do you recon? poss v5 from sit?

also on the boulder directly above using the seam for left and arete for right climb the slab, scary highball v4?
both are ace probs (need to be in the topo!!).

had a crack at Gaskins/johns wall thing, hard. can get the middle of the three dishes with right but cant do fuck all with it, get feet high on those brushed smears? then dyno/lunge for the good one? awesone line.

[Nigel]

The crack isn't on the topo because to our knowledge it hasn't (hadn't!) been done. For some reason neither of us could be arsed, so well done for pulling ya finger out, obviously a cracking problem.

Both myself and Greg have done that arete using the seam, I have a feeling Greg may have done it without aswell but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure we gave it 5c (it was a while ago!) so V4 may be a bit much. Don't know why its not on the topo though!

I don't want to give the game away on John's Wall, but I seem to remember the key being getting feet high while "opening elevator doors" at the top of the seam. I haven't done it mind.

[Greg C]

Hi Chappers (and Neil)
Crack with arete - highball V2
Crack without arete - highball V6ish
Crack on the lower boulder (right of "Here Iam Again") did this a while ago but forgot to put on the topo, I think Dave Bates might have done it before me? V4ish?

The question is can some one climb the wall left of the high ball crack?

Cheers Greg

[chappers]

ta,
did the arete and crack thing onsight so probs not that hard was chuffed with ourselves, hence the over grading!!!

recon that the thing on the boulder below is harder than v4. took more goes than "and for my next trick," the sit down is certainly more powerful.

off longridge, laters

[squeek]

How did you get on at Longridge?

Squeek - the other guy at longridge last night.

[chappers]

was that you there? on tues, the guy with the topo?
that v7 thing u pointed my mate at was hard! we all decided that it looked very flashable, then none of us got up it at all.
that bend in the rainbow traverse was tricky too, recovering from knackered elbow.
but man what a place (my first time) like a really good climbing wall outdoors. love it.

laters, chappers

[squeek]

Yeah it was me with the topo.  Problem is with longridge most of the problems have holds that look ok, then you pull on and 'fucking hell that's a long way' or get to it and it's not as good as it looked.  Good place though, my main training venue now that the hour's gone forward.

[chappers]

cool, probably see ya down there after work some days then.
gotta do bend in the rainbow next time (got past the crux then powered out on the sloper :cry: )
laters