[shark]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19911.0/topicseen.html]Obviously there's the opening on Boulder Central on Saturday[/url]

Not quite a chuffing venue but Longridge was dry on Monday.

What other venues are looking good / are folk going to ?

[Bonjoy]

Apparently LPT was busy today and in good nick

[Fiend]

I am probably not getting away for the whole weekend 

But might well get to Glen Nevis for one day   

[shark]

Apparently LPT was busy today and in good nick

That's a thought. Low tides for mid afternoon / early evening too .

[Durbs]

First time trip to Porthcawl and maybe Dinas for me...

[Doylo]

LPT is a fortress. Hopefully going sat

[Paul B]

Main Cliff, Gogarth I'd think (is it too cold? will it be dry?). Tomorrow, and for the drive I'll be trying to convince my better half that Positron should be our main aim.

[dave]

gogarths always warm innit? You should be laughing.

[b3n99]

First time trip to Porthcawl and maybe Dinas for me...

Would expect Dinas to be a gopping mess I'm afraid.

[Johnny Brown]

North-easterlys innit? You'll be laughing, 'twas our default May bank destination for a few years. Get on Yellow walls (proper suntrap) and do The Moon too, she'll cream her cake.

[TobyD]

Malham Saturday, depends on t'weather rest of the weekend, hopefully get on some trad N Wales / Lakes side. Anyone dealt with the high quality stuff at Burnt Crag? Recommendations?

[Paul B]

North-easterlys innit? You'll be laughing, 'twas our default May bank destination for a few years. Get on Yellow walls (proper suntrap) and do The Moon too, she'll cream her cake.

That'll be the one with the big traverse and the downclimb?

[north_country_boy]

North-easterlys innit? You'll be laughing, 'twas our default May bank destination for a few years. Get on Yellow walls (proper suntrap) and do The Moon too, she'll cream her cake.

That'll be the one with the big traverse and the downclimb?

Mmm The moon....tread carefully Paul, you may never get her there again  Positron has a traverse on it too, plus belayer and climber can't see each other for large parts of P2 and P3....

[Fiend]

North-easterlys innit? You'll be laughing, 'twas our default May bank destination for a few years. Get on Yellow walls (proper suntrap) and do The Moon too, she'll cream her cake.

That'll be the one with the big traverse and the downclimb and that's E2 to second?

[psychomansam]

Coniston copper mines. At least we won't have to worry about the weather. A run in the lakes, and with any luck, some climbing when it's not precipitating.   

[Paul B]

Mmm The moon....tread carefully Paul, you may never get her there again  Positron has a traverse on it too, plus belayer and climber can't see each other for large parts of P2 and P3....

So Adam is trying to sandbag Nat, thats a bit harsh, I don't think she's ever bickered with him about training vs. climbing?

Undecided on routes thus far, Gogarth, the Strand, Flytrap, Rat Race, Creeping Leema, The Moon, T-rex, Dinosaur and Positron are all on the ever growing, ever more apsiraitonal ticklist. I'm assuming a few of those mightn't be in the best of condition given the past weeks.

[TobyD]

Mmm The moon....tread carefully Paul, you may never get her there again  Positron has a traverse on it too, plus belayer and climber can't see each other for large parts of P2 and P3....

Undecided on routes thus far, Gogarth, the Strand, Flytrap, Rat Race, Creeping Leema, The Moon, T-rex, Dinosaur and Positron are all on the ever growing, ever more apsiraitonal ticklist.

Kalahari is great if you are on yellow walls. Gogarth is a bit overrated i hear, though i have not done it. Resolution direct is a good E2. Dinosaur is much more second-friendly, although may be a little damp on P1, it is also a very 'steady' E5. Blue Peter on N stack wall is underrated - its amazing.... i could go on, but i have work to do ;-)

with any luck i may see you there at some point over the weekend......

[Johnny Brown]

I'm not trying to sandbag anyone! If you're considering an E5 surely an E3 is not out of the question? I love Yellow walls, The Moon is one of THE great british trad experiences.

Gogarth is brilliant, though might be a bit easy for you two. Creeping Lemma is a much more perverse version of The Moon, fun if you like that sort of thing but if you are worried about Nat seconding the Moon don't go near it. For the main cliff E5s you need a bit of stamina and dry rock - ie don't bother in the mornings. Big Groove is probably the best mid-extreme on the main cliff. T-rex is great but also needs the start dry out, and probably a big cam.

The E3s at Rhoscolyn are very good too, and the crag is generally a bit friendlier.

[north_country_boy]

I'm not trying to sandbag anyone! If you're considering an E5 surely an E3 is not out of the question? I love Yellow walls, The Moon is one of THE great british trad experiences.

Gogarth is brilliant, though might be a bit easy for you two. Creeping Lemma is a much more perverse version of The Moon, fun if you like that sort of thing but if you are worried about Nat seconding the Moon don't go near it. For the main cliff E5s you need a bit of stamina and dry rock - ie don't bother in the mornings. Big Groove is probably the best mid-extreme on the main cliff. T-rex is great but also needs the start dry out, and probably a big cam.

The E3s at Rhoscolyn are very good too, and the crag is generally a bit friendlier.

I'd agree with Rhoscolyn, good friendly venue and some good routes, if you go, make sure you wander on and solo Electric Blue.

[Bonjoy]

Magellan's Wall at Rhoscolyn is brilliant if you want something harder than E3. I hear Warpath is good and more of a path than a war.

[T_B]

Anyone dealt with the high quality stuff at Burnt Crag? Recommendations?

Done Shifter and the other E3, plus Buning Desire, which is excellent and well protected if I remember rightly. Like a Lakes version of Nectarine Run.

[T_B]

Undecided on routes thus far, Gogarth, the Strand, Flytrap, Rat Race, Creeping Leema, The Moon, T-rex, Dinosaur and Positron are all on the ever growing, ever more apsiraitonal ticklist. I'm assuming a few of those mightn't be in the best of condition given the past weeks.

Save Creeping Lemma for a rainy day as it doesn't get wet.

Flytap is bird banned.

I reckon it might be primo on the main cliff, as the recent rainy weather will have washed off the sea salt meaning less smeggy and it's not going to be that hot. So it could be awesome conditions. The same goes for T-Rex. Pretty intimidating in the bottom of Wen Zawn though and I should think The Moon is actually a less scary prospect as it's a sun trap. Plus you won't have to deal with the zillions of people on Dream!

Easter Island Gully is good, with two great E3s opposite each other and some steadier stuff too to warm into it. Though the descent needs care and is pretty scary if you've not done much like that before..

I'm on a day-hit to the slate for some slab action that hopefully doesn't require any arm stamina 

[SA Chris]

Hmmm, weather dubious. No long weekend, but might just be on touring skis on Sunday!

[Stabbsy]

Anyone dealt with the high quality stuff at Burnt Crag? Recommendations?

Shifter, Innocenti and Double Trouble (all E3) are great, SPC is a bit unbalanced, better to do Scorched Earth at E4. Burning Desire is brilliant and generally good gear, definitely do the RH finish (LH finish is as for Scorched Earth I think). I've always liked the look of Alien Heat, but reputedly quite hard and with awkward gear placement.

If you're in the area, it's worth doing White Water in Troutal Gorge for some Lakes esoterica, but watch out if the midges are bad. And I always thought Rhetoric of Meritocracy (steep wall up anl left from Burnt) looked great, but never tried it.

[Beastly Squirrel]

I'm hoping some of the dartmoor granite sould be dry!

[Teaboy]

So what did everyone get up to? I was visiting parents but managed a minor route on the main cliff at Gogarth and a disappointing failure on the slate (anyone done Smokeless Zone at Vivian? It seemed impossible)

[shark]

So what did everyone get up to? I was visiting parents but managed a minor route on the main cliff at Gogarth and a disappointing failure on the slate (anyone done Smokeless Zone at Vivian? It seemed impossible)

Had no takers for a quick trip to Osp so ended up at the Tor on Saturday with Mark Richardson and had another go at Wild In Me which was a bit damp. On Sunday went to LPT via Llandulas (lots to do there now) with Keith, Seb and Rae and had my usual flail around on Bad Bad Boy. Had fixed up to go to High Tor on Monday with Dave Bond but it chucked down and I was goosed anyway. Sounds like Malham was in good nick so missed a trick there. 

[dave]

Drove 980 miles to do a Diff in big boots and gloves. Awesome.

[Paul B]

Drove 980 miles to do a Diff in big boots and gloves. Awesome.

and expose a few £20 notes? (or have fuji made that 50 yet?)...

Sat -  Gogarth on Main Cliff, should've done something else (further left)
Sun - Yellow Walls and Castell Helen, beautiful day in the sun

Nat seemed quite happy seconding the moon on Sun and is pushing to go back for a few others next weekend. Happy days.

[dave]

Drove 980 miles to do a Diff in big boots and gloves. Awesome.

and expose a few £20 notes? (or have fuji made that 50 yet?)...

Luckily my vault is full of old fivers. Better than spending kodak travellers cheques.