[Durbs]

Assuming this deluge stops, was planning on making our first trip to Wales this coming weekend

Was trying to get hold of the North Wales guide but seems to be out of stock until the new edition comes out in June, so looking for a place with nice camping, online topos, and climbs up to 6a+/V3 (but lots of stuff below!).
Icing on the cake would be short walk in, so if/when it does rain we don't have an hour walk back to the car/campsite.

A quick bit of googling throughs up too many options!

**edit - Think I'll limit this to South Wales**

In the meantime, would "Boulder Britain" stand in as a guidebook?

[chris05]

Where are you? I have a guide that you are welcome to borrow but I am in Nottingham.If you post where you are someone might be happy to lend one? Otherwise I am sure Grimer's book would do the job admirably.

[Durbs]

Epsom... But thanks for the offer

Just been checking out Port Ysgo - think I'l struggle to persuade the Mrs about the 5 hours drive, so think I'll change the original post to South Wales - that way if the weather's utterly shocking can be home in 3 hours...

[SA Chris]

Which spoon do you want me to use?

http://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

[Durbs]

The non-hurty spoon please

Just found that having added "south" to my googling...

But er... any specific crags to head to? There's so many!

[Durbs]

Porthcawl looks like a winner...

[SA Chris]

I would think Dinas is probably first choice, other than that I think everything else is pretty average; some nice stuff at Ogmore and Rest Bay for seaside fun, otherwise it's all a bit spread out.

I'm expecting a flaming from an incensed local, but IMO I wouldn't have S Wales as top of my list for a bouldering trip.

[slackline]

Which spoon do you want me to use?

http://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

Duly added to the WIki

I'm expecting a flaming from an incensed local, but IMO I wouldn't have S Wales as top of my list for a bouldering trip.

Maybe its a compromise for a non-climbing partner. 

[Three Nine]

Dinas Rock will be seeping like yo momma I reckon.

[SA Chris]

Maybe its a compromise for a non-climbing partner. 

Are you his emissary as well now?

[slackline]

No I just like stating the bleeding obvious.   

(I didn't see any point in suggesting it as a poor choice of venues really.)

[Durbs]

You've all gone and confused me now...

The other half is a climber, just not a fan of long car journeys for short trips, hence South over North Wales (maybe keep that for a June double Bank Holiday).

Is Porthcawl bad, or just not awesome?

[slackline]

You've all gone and confused me now...

Chris & I being petty, safe to ignore.

[SA Chris]

Is Porthcawl bad, or just not awesome?

In my experience it's OK. I think it's mostly tidal, and can stay damp if conditions aren't great. I found the rock to be really sharp, even on the easy stuff (and it's mostly easy), it's quite a pretty spot, but the beach will be busy if the sun is shining. And be prepared to say "How much??" when you park at the pay and display  parking at Rest Bay, and don't not buy a ticket as you will get fined.

[ducko]

just come to north wales its the bollocks!

[SA Chris]

So how was it?

[Durbs]

It was lovely

Managed to get sunburnt on Sunday which was surprising.

Went to Porthcawl - tide times were perfect, nice spread of easy grades with some challenges, variety of rock from insane sharpness to sea-polished smoothness, easy to find areas and nice campsite.

Only downside was the food options in town on Sunday night... In that there was only one option (The curry house) but even that was good.

Think we climbed pretty much all the documented V0 - V3 routes, so not in a hurry to go back, but definitely worth the trip.

Roll on Jubilee weekend for Peak fun times now :D

[Durbs]

FB pics in case anyone cares:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151687764885366.849792.547155365&type=3

[SA Chris]

That finger crack to dyno prob is the only one i remember. I think there was a crucial limpet foohold at the time.

[Durbs]

Yeah - the limpets were an interesting addition... They seemed to love setting up in useful holds make a jug into a crimp. Never trusted them fully to rock-over on.