Interesting video that.
The problem with the Yosemite 8 is well known in circles where the knot may be used, though i have never seen anyone ever using it. It's useful to stop the knot jamming if loaded heavily, but it's got the drawback seen in the vid.
The case of the bowline is something that should have more publicity in the climbing community. Worryingly enough, a safe solution is ignorantly dismissed by climbing folklore.
The problem with the standard bowline is that if you load the loop it will capsize and form a false lapp bend, which will slip at very low forces.
It was 180kg in the video, but if you try at home you can probably make it fail simply with the hands.
Anyone using the rope loop to hang from the belay or a quickdraw could find themselves mid air, unroped, without knowing what happened.
Now, many people will be aware that if you tie a bowline with the tail in the outside of the loop then the knot is considerably weakened and you will die. Right? Wrong.
A left handed bowline (or cowboy bowline) has identical strength qualities to an standard bowline. However, if loaded through the loop it will become a lapp bend which is a perfectly safe knot.
Of course, making sure you have a stopper would solve the problem, but it can't hurt to tie with a cowboy bowline from the start.
