[highrepute]

Tried this yesterday and got well and truly shutdown. Tried crossing over on crimps and going with RH to big gaston. And tried going LH up to rubbish sloper from crimps. Both felt really hard and I never managed to get anywhere near the big gaston on the right. What am I missing?

[SA Chris]

Coincidentally I read a report about this prob only last night in an old mag down the wall. I think Percy B was involved in at least part of the FA, he should be able to give the lowdown.

[cofe]

hands right way round on crimps, LF heel on big starting hold, rock LH to poor pinchy sloper, get RF toehook in with LF in same place, and flick RH across to gaston (crux).

[account_inactive]

Then try not to dislocate your shoulder

[Andy B]

I went direct to the gaston from the crimps, without the sloper out left. That may be kinder on the shoulder?

[account_inactive]

I went direct to the gaston from the crimps, without the sloper out left. That may be kinder on the shoulder?

I didn't use the sloper either.  I just have weak shoulders

[dave]

When working this I found I could get sat on the sloper with feet in the right place, with hands crossed on the crimps, and then go static to the gaston. But then on another visit this didn't work and I had to use the slpey thing out left, as cofe says that makes the toehook/drag thing down right pretty useful.

[Eddies]

I found the footholds to be the key to unlocking this prob as the dirty crimp and sloper are all there is to work with.
deffo wriggled my index into the back of that crimp but left toe was on the bottom of the flake by the sitter and right toe was on a tiny edge way down right. Then its just a big move over for the good gaston, as high on it as you can without cutting loose.
Great moves for a dirty cave with broken glass and shit all over the floor!

[Dolly]

Had an hour on this today. What an ace problem even tho I didn't do it.
Dave/Cofe are you saying that you should get left hand on the higher crimp or right ?
I tried it both ways. With my right on the top I can get to the slopey layaway but then I think I need to move my feet before going for the lower gaston. I tried it with  my foot on the hold beneath the big starting hold.
Also tried crossing over so my left hand was on the higher crimp but I couldn't stick the lower gaston. I was tired and a bit snatch by then though.
Any help appreciated