[andy_e]

Ta.

[Simon W]

Thinking of popping over on Friday morning.  Anyone been lately?

[Simon W]

Most of the wave area was in pretty good nick today.  Start holds on bullet and the tufa on Alpha were the only damp spots we found. 

[dave]

Anyone been this weekend/monday?

[timlar]

Siwid was there yesterday, looks bone dry in the photos, (wave area)
 

[dave]

OK back to usual service today - all of ebola area dry except the usual stuff like the tufa bits near ebola and the 7b+ to its left, and the back of the ebola pocket. rest of the wave area OK but some stuff under the roofs a bit soapy in places. Tons of mosquitos out.

Woddy's area is pretty dank under the roof.

[Simon W]

Frodo was the driest I've seen it today, only damp at the back of the deepest holds, everything I tried was climbable. 

All good down by the tracks from Apprentice prow to Whizz Kid. 

Dukes drying out too, the warm ups at either end were dry but all the hard stuff inbetween was still damp.

Woody's was damp and infested with horrible flying things. 

Wave area dry except for the usual buts like the Alpha tufa.  Holds on Black Crow and Dark art felt a bit greasy.

All in all it was looking pretty good!

[andy_e]

Some greasy bits on Bullitt and Alpha but otherwise dry. Someone's snapped the ear off the 7a left of Alpha. Looked very recent.

[Simon W]

Didn't notice if it was there or not on friday morning, shame, last stand and twenty four point nine are good problems.  Very wobbly block under the first crimp on Alpha too, hope that's not next to go.

[Wood FT]

Some greasy bits on Bullitt and Alpha but otherwise dry. Someone's snapped the ear off the 7a left of Alpha. Looked very recent.

gutted, that ear was marked

[andy_e]

Oh yeah, what used to be a split edge on Alpha just below the jug has become a single two finger edge and is desperate now!

[Simon W]

Oh dear......

[Richie Crouch]

I thought it was always a 2 finger edge anyway? Doubt it is any harder than 7b still!

[andy_e]

It was a 2 finger edge with a separate 2 finger edge down and right for your back two to split onto, and that's now gone.

[Xan]

Bummer, was hoping to do Last Stand tomorrow. I had shortstuff beta for it too 

[Oli]

 

Bummer, was hoping to do Last Stand tomorrow. I had shortstuff beta for it too 

Last stand is still doable without the ear. It can't be much harder as I'm weak as anything at the moment...

[andy_e]

How did you manage it? I tried it briefly but couldn't be bothered trying to link the two shelves. You are 8 foot tall though.

[dave]

You can slap straight from the low shelf past the ear to the sloper shelf ok, alternatively i think there is a little crimp nubbin up and left ofnthe ear instead, and a bigger open sidepull/undercut below it, so something should be there to suit climbers of either gangly or thalidomide proportions.

[andy_e]

But what about those climbers who can't slap and can't work out how to use that open sidepull thing, and can't see that higher crimp because they're blind bastards?

[dave]

Then they get the violin out.

[Drew]

Xan may be a homunculus, but still had to use the ear. I reckon it's gotta be noticeably harder now.

[Oli]

 I went LH into an upside down spikes thing with heel on the starting shelf, then bumped RH to some intermediate crimp below the slopey shelf, then go again to the shelf with RH.

I'm normal height, neither dwarf nor megatron, and it felt entirely unstretched. It was about my third day climbing this year, so can't be desperate, or it was well soft before...

[Gallant]

Went down this afternoon for a few hours, unfortunately, Wave and Bullet seeping when I left at about half 3.

[sjw]

Any reports from today would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[peewee]

Was in bad condition yesterday, a lot of seeping and all the low holds damp. Looks like a big hold / edge has come off on Ebola / Resonate low down near the big undercut.