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UKB Power Club Week 113 Mon 9th-Sun 15th April (Read 13720 times)

Sasquatch

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M - Last climbing Day in Joe's Valley - Mixed day - Rough Morning, everything felt hard.  Took a good siesta break, then had a solid afternoon - 7C second try, 7A+ Flash, 7B+ second try.
T - Travel Day back to AK
W - Rest/Recover
Th - Light Bouldering in the gym to recover, Fingers still trashed from trip.
F - Run - 6Mi
Sat - FB - Test Max Hangs for start of cycle.   Biked-10Mi Outside (yeah!!!-Roads are dry enough to ride :)
Sun - Endurance Routes, Run 4mi

This week starts a 4 week cycle of weight loss and FB aiming to get lean for outdoor season here in AK. 

Goals for coming 4 week cycle -
Weight loss: Drop from 81 to 78kgs
Consistancy:10 min Yoga and 10 min bodyweight circuit in AM, and 30-45 min run everyday. 
Fingers: Hang the 45slopers without nestle or pinch, and back 2 the bottom row 2 finger pockets. 

Duncan Disorderly

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Goals: Sardine.. Other Peak sport up to 7c+

M: AnCap @ The Works - Bottom of brown 7c (crux) x 4 @ 3 mins rest three times  (12 reps in all with 10 mins between sets) Utter meltdown..... :sick:
T: Planned fingerboard and weights session - listened to body, went to pub.
W-S: Family holiday in't Lakes - Did shitloads of walking and some running up and down fells but family commitments meant that I wasn't able to sneak off to the Bowderstone as I'd hoped....
S: 6 mile Burbage run.

Easy week forced upon me which is no bad thing as was feeling a bit battered... Getting worryingly psyched by fell running again which is no bad thing when I can't actually climb but somebody give me a slap next time my running days outnumber my climbing ones :chair:

This week: Tick Sardine - Make up for last weeks slackness.

:D

Fiend

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STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Active rest, 10 mins running, light weights session - okay.
T - Active rest, 10 mins running, light weights session - okay.
W - Gym, 2x12 mins arm cycling, 25 mins recumbent cycling, few weights AND 10 mins running - good, fine at gym despite a long break from it, and bonus run.
T -  Indoor bouldering @ TCA, easy circuit AND 12 mins running - okay, was rubbish at wall but again hadn't been for 3+ weeks, did mileage and bonus run
F - Rest.
S - Outdoor trad @ Ardnamurchan, a few mid-grade routes - okay, nice to be out but limited choice of routes and got quite cold so didn't do so well.
S - Outdoor trad @ Ardnamurchan, a few mid-grade routes plus 2 hours walking - good, some good climbing and a great full day out.

Much better week. Kept up with gentle running, did some proper training, and got some proper days out. Much more how it needs to be. Particularly good was going to the wall AND for a run, this will be a great habit if I can get into it, and getting a full day at Ardnarmuchan, I didn't do much progressive on the trad but definitely beneficial overall. Forecast is arse for a while so I intend to keep up with the gym and indoor routes/falling/stamina training.


Sasquatch

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LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

What's a "consistant climber's lifestyle?"  Just curious.

Nibile

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Climb, eat, sleep.

Duma

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Climb, eat, sleep...
...get up really early.

Fiend

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LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

What's a "consistant climber's lifestyle?"  Just curious.

Something that doesn't happen in the West of Scotland!!!!


Duncan Disorderly

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LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

What's a "consistant climber's lifestyle?"  Just curious.

Keep on climbing while holding down a job and a couple of kids? There summat you're not telling us Matt? :whistle:

cheque

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LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

What's a "consistent climber's lifestyle?"  Just curious.

It's when you can't find any trousers without all chalk on them when you're about to go out with your non-climbing mates.

Sasquatch

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LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

What's a "consistant climber's lifestyle?"  Just curious.

Something that doesn't happen in the West of Scotland!!!!

Nor in Alaska!!  :-\


Sasquatch

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Climb, eat, sleep.

You missed the drink part.

Climb,  :beer2: , Eat,  :beer2: ,Sleep,  :beer2:

 :slap:  The mystery behind my large mass is explained......

fried

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The new ones are all theraband things.

- Lie on the floor with band looped around bent leg, hold band next to head as if holding a phone then extend over head.  As in away from leg, not literally up because I'm lying on my back.
- Wrap band around pull-up bar or something.  Pull down with right hand then transfer to left (the dodgy one), set shoulder in position (it's too far forward) then slowly raise up in front with elbow locked.  I forget why I swap hands and don't just pull down with the left but that's what I was told.
- Hold band with both hands in front and pull arms out to side.

Quota is 12 reps of each twice a day, I usually do a bit more.

I'll have to try these to add a bit of variation to my low weights routine. Cheers.

JDobo

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M- Rest
T- Short bouldering session
W - Was meant to go to the gym but other things got in the way...
T - Nothing
F - Really good session repeating earlier routes, technique felt solid.
S - Nothing
S - Fantastic session nearly did my first V6+ (in two halves), just need to tackle the link now  8)

Duma

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JDobo

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V6+

?????

Between a V6 and V7? Unless your taking the mickey out of me for using V grades  :-\

Duma

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No, but I'm going to for claiming a grade between V6 and V7 - there isn't one  ::). It's a continuous scale, straight from the hardest V6's to the easiest V7's
 :slap: :P :lol:

Oldmanmatt

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No, but I'm going to for claiming a grade between V6 and V7 - there isn't one  ::). It's a continuous scale, straight from the hardest V6's to the easiest V7's
 :slap: :P :lol:

Yes...
But I've seen plenty of walls that just grade up to V5 and anything harder gets marked V6+.

Which does leave things open, a little...

I mean V15 is a V6+.

JDobo

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No, but I'm going to for claiming a grade between V6 and V7 - there isn't one  ::). It's a continuous scale, straight from the hardest V6's to the easiest V7's
 :slap: :P :lol:

V15 is a V6+.
If only  :lol:

 

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