[Doylo]

Her progress on the comp scene has been amazing. I'm looking forward to her unleashing on the boulders too in the years ahead. Font 8b anyone!!?

[rodma]

Streaming live again now.

[Grubes]

anyone watching? Blocked out at work so can't watch it.

Hows team GB getting on plus the on honary brits? (CWP etc)

[Duma]

Stu W: 3/5 tops, 5/9 bonus (pool 1) currently 15th
Dave B: 3/5 tops, 4/6 bonus
CWP: 3/5 tops, 4/6 bonus
Jon P: 2/5 tops, 2/2 bonus

JP is still climbing I think, maybe DB and CWP too? can't really work it out

[Duma]

DB and CWP joint 11th now, I think they've finished so are out 
JP now 20th, think he's still climbing
Tom N has just started: 1/3 tops, 1/1 bonus

[Duma]

TN 2/5, 2/2

[r-man]

Honorary Brit Nacho (1st ascent at the Tor, should get a UK passport!) in joint 4th.

Just found the times for the other rounds. Converted to UK:

27th April 2012 Qualifications
18:15 start qualification women

28th April 2012 Semifinals and Finals
09:30 start semi finals (men&women)
12:20 end semi finals
 
17:00 start finals women
18:50 end finals, flower ceremony

19:15 start finals men
21:00 end finals, flower ceremony
21:15 award ceremony

[Stabbsy]

Unless I misunderstood the thing on ifsc.tv, it sounds like the women's qualifying has been delayed until 7:15pm, so 6:15pm UK time. At least I might make it back from work in time to catch some of it....

[Duma]

Honorary Brit Nacho (1st ascent at the Tor, should get a UK passport!) in joint 4th.

joint 4th in his pool - think joint 9th overall. still safely through though?

[Duma]

seems harsh the women are allotted so much less recovery time? qualification (much) later, semi's same as the men, finals earlier. Surely they should either qualify first or have the finals last?

[mr__j5]

That's wierd.

The finals are never separate except in the world champs.

It usually makes it more boring, since you have between 0 & 1 people climbing at the same time instead of between 0 & 2.

The amount of recovery time isn't that relevant though, since they are all in the same boat.

[r-man]

Here's a vid that shows the winning Slovenian on last week's finals problems. Gives a better idea of the angles and holds than the live stream did.



But also beneath that video is a link to vote for a new wall in Latvia. I'm quite enjoying watching these comps for free, so it seems like a nice way to say thanks to the Slovenians for that last round. Here's the text:

Could you help us in voting for a new outdoor climbing wall in Riga (Latvia), link here:

http://www.labiedarbi.lv/lv/balso_par_projektu/brivdabas-kapsanas-siena.html

The voting is absolutely free.

1.On the webpage right side please select your country from "Valsts" menu (sorry, only in Latvian transcription) "United Kingdom is the first country in the list ("Apvienota karaliste" in Latvian) ,USA is the second("ASV" in Latvian), Ireland is the 13th ("Irija" in Latvian),

2.put your phone number and press "Sanemt kodu", then you will get sms with a code,

3.please enter the code on the empty field and press "Balsot". It takes less then 1 minute.

[Duma]

Shauna through in joint 3rd, Alex in joint 17th. All other brits and token brits out (unless we get nacho now).

R-man - cheers for the tranlation services, done.

In other news, Jule Wurm also through in joint 3rd 

[Stubbs]

In other news, Jule Wurm also through in joint 3rd 

She'd be winning if she hadn't dropped 5.10 for Mad Rock - madness!

[robertostallioni]

I take it Percy had a hand in setting W1? 

[r-man]

Desperate looking problems in the semis, compounded by 30 deg heat. Alex and Shauna through as top two, along with most of the usuals. Russians looking strong in the men's.

Men's looked gnarly, only one topout needed to go through. Old skool crimping on the final problem shut all the usual beasts down, just one ascent. Similar story with the crimpy girl's problem (no ascents). Nobody can crimp these days, bet that would have been bread and butter to the 80's brick-edge-traverse gang.

Bring on the finals. Meanwhile, conditions look good, I'm psyched to get on the rock and do some sideways quarryman backwards facing balancing with tetrahedral inconveniences, whilst keeping my feet away from the black tape. On second thoughts, I'm going bouldering instead...

[Duma]

missed the webcast, but Alex 3rd, Shauna 4th. Akiyo won.

[Dr T]

missed the webcast, but Alex 3rd, Shauna 4th. Akiyo won.

Think most people missed the broadcast - the bandwidth problem was back.....   

[mr__j5]

I saw it all fine.

Olga landed badly on problem and got probable turn ACL so had to pull out.
Shauna looked knackered and said so when interviewed, so was happy to get the result she got.

The mens final was more entertaining. Thrills and spills and jumps.
Rei turned his ankle on problem 2 and had to get strapped up and came back on the later problems and still topped them.
Killi looked a bit out of sorts and then just managed to top stuff.
Rustam crushed.

[jakes]

I'm new to watching Boulder WC's (this was the first Boulder WC I've watched) and in all honesty I only put it on because I was psyched to see how Shauna got on (I'm sure having a world-class British comp climber will get more Brits into it).

I wasn't sure what to expect of the event and, from the moment I switched it on, I was really impressed with the quality: not just of the competition, but also the coverage (both in terms of presenters and filming) and thought both looked very 'professional'.

The range/variety of problems looked both challenging for the competitors (i.e. a good separation in the finals, semi-finals not so good...) and entertaining for the audience. The atmosphere looked great and it looked like they had a large crowd. It seems that on the continent climbers have a less derisory attitude towards competitions than over here, however going off the interest shown in the Boulder WC on this forum and among friends (compared with previous years) I'm starting to get the feeling that people are starting to not only think of comp climbing as 'acceptable', but also starting to get into it as a spectator sport.

Indeed, I never thought climbing comps were that interesting to watch, but this has certainly changed my mind. I'll most definitely be watching the remaining events in the series and rooting for Shauna all the way!

[jakes]

Oh, and I had no problems with viewing the webcast.

[r-man]

Yep, men's finals were great. Nice to have Chris Webb commentating, the main commentator was enthsiastic, but it helps to have someone there who can talk beta and climbing minutiae.

A shame several of the women were really struggling with thin/bleeding skin. But i guess if you have three rounds in two days, and some of those in 30 deg. heat, it's unavoidable. It would be great to see them all performing at their peak, ie. having had a rest day before each round, or at least the final. Sometimes seems to come down to who can keep going at 80% the longest, rather than whose 100% effort is the best. Bouldering isn't supposed to be moutaineering. But most competitors/venues probably can't afford events to take that long. Maybe it will change in the future.

[ghisino]

It would be great to see them all performing at their peak, ie. having had a rest day before each round, or at least the final. Sometimes seems to come down to who can keep going at 80% the longest, rather than whose 100% effort is the best.

i was having similar thoughts...maybe putting qualifications and semis on the same day and finals on the 3rd could be enough (but it would make for a very busy day for the organization)

on the other hand the current format reinforces the advantage for those who can manage their attempts well and/or give 100% to flash/2nd go.
Imho it makes for a good show and, other things being equal, it rewards experience/mental skills, which is positive?
A possible unexpected consequence of a "skin saving" format could be that trashing attempts would become less disadvantageous, opening the doors for physically fitter athletes who have a bit less talent/comp experience?

[fiveknuckle21]

Not world cup related but Ive heard on the Tweet^TM tree that Shauna Coxsey has won this years Melloblocco. Those comments made on Outcrop a few weeks back are becoming more revelant as each day passes.

[nai]

Confirmed here, great stuff:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39510