[Dr T]

[fatneck]

Men's qualifying on now...

[r-man]

Dave Barrans through to semis. Stu Watson just missed out. Commentator better than last time. Jakob Shubert at the top again. Austria and Russia dominating. Several 8C beasts fallen by the wayside.

Women coming up, but I can't watch any more when the weather is this good...

Looking forward to the finals.

[maybe_si]

looks like all the women are crushing!  Everything is getting done.... by everyone! 

[r-man]

Just checked results. Shauna qualified joint first. Game on!

[Duma]

Go Shauna!

The scoring is royally fucked in this unless I don't understand something. How does CW-P come behind 4 people who all got less tops and less bonuses than him? Surely number of attempts should only be used to split ties?

[robertostallioni]

In the qualifiers there are 2 sets of problems. You go into pot A or pot B. If you are 10th in pot A you are 20th overall.

The problems in CWP's half of the draw must have been marginally easier I imagine.

[Duma]

Okay, cheers.

[pjkp]

Yes I'm pretty sure it is the position you come in your qualification group, not how the scores compare with the people in the other half.
Apparently the chief route setter said that the 2 sets of problems were 94% the same!!!

[Duma]

Obvious next question is how do they split the field into two groups? Esp at the beginning of the season...

[mr__j5]

By world ranking, which is on a rolling 12 month basis.

Ranking    Group
1                A
2                B
3                B
4                A
5                A
6                B

etc

[mr__j5]

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/2012/Rules%20/IFSCRules2012.pdf

Section 7.6.1

[Duma]

Cheers jayou.

[r-man]

The problems in CWP's half of the draw must have been marginally easier I imagine.

Possible, but also possible that people in that group were climbing slightly better than people in the other group. World ranking is only ever going to be a very rough measure of ability to perform on any given set of problems.

[robertostallioni]

-or climbing worse but on piss easy problems. 

 

Even gangle hauled his carcass up two of them.

(to be fair he got timed out after the crux of problem 3, and dropped 4 like a tool, repeatedly. If he'd ticked either of those he'd be well in the semi's and  his auntie would be his uncle.

[robertostallioni]

El Baroni!!!

P1 flashed.

and first to tick P2

[robertostallioni]

P3 looks nails. sideway dyno into a hemisphere pocket, no-one stuck it yet.

wonder if someone will go feet first. (looks like quadra-spaz potential)

[robertostallioni]

Dave's finished. 2 ticked of 4. 1 more bonus.

looks like you need to tick at least 3, prob all 4, to guarantee the final.

[Baldy]

I doubt feet first will work, the sloper looks incredibly bad and the foot incredibly high.

[Baldy]

Phew, grey volume on W4 doesnt have much on it!

[miso soup]

So Shauna's in the final?  I think?  Akiyo flashing that horrendous gap jump was 

[robertostallioni]

in second place. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_FB

mens here http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_MB

[Grubes]

I don't think many of them liked W3
That russian bird's fall looked nasty. face first into the wall stomach into a foot hold landed badly on her ankle. Sounds like she came away okay after getting strechered off. Just hurt her ankle.

Akiyo and anna S both went face first into the wall but held the hold. Anna shouted something at the officials could not hear on the feed after latching, looking pissed off ...

Good round though

[r-man]

Seems like the website isn't working. Anyone managing to watch finals?

[robertostallioni]

wasn't expecting it to go live till just before half past 6? sheeeeeeeeeeet.