[csl]

Goals for April -
Write my dissertation - About 5000 words in now, going ok.
Climb 7b+ - Got on space race, hope it stays dry!
Onsight E3 - Did an E4.
Sub 19min 5km - 18.59, very pleased.

Monday- Leeds wall - some bouldering - somehow got stronger by not bouldering for a month and a few routes, mainly fell off and got very pumped. Then did some core.
Tuesday- Rest
Wednesday- Went bouldering at Leeds wall in the morning cos weather was crap, did a few PE laps on a V5. Then weather cleared up so went to cliff and did Grand Illusion, my first E4 onsight also did some bouldering but no ticks.
Thursday- Running - Did some sprint/recovery training type stuff for 30 mins, mainly cos i wanted an excuse to stop running when it hurt. Knees hurt a lot! Core when i got home.
Friday- Malham - Cold! Got Appetite second go of the day then had a bolt to bolt and a TR on Space Race - great route, got a sequence so probably gonna try and red point next time. Fell over leaving and put a big cut in my thumb though, shit!
Saturday- Park Run - Position and time PB's. Came 10th with 18.59. Buzzing!
Sunday- Dissertation time - fingerboarding later.

[nai]

in short

S Rocher Canon - did Les Callins des Kims
M - Petis Bois - failed on La Ballaine
T - Canon did Chassures de Prises
W _ Merciers - did Mardi Gras / Radio Crochet
T - failed to even find Mysteria at St Germain
F - Elucubration / Le Quark & Zen at Sabot

For the bored:

S - Canon, worked out Les Callins des Kims but wasn't fancying the topout when a French group turned up with a load of pads, had to explain the beta to them (which I secretly took great pleasure in) then witnessed a font topout mantling masterclass, but not without some nasty falls. Got the top eventually, good start.

M - Petit Bois, after a brief warm up got straight on La Ballaine when I noticed a group assembling below it, this time they had the beta to give away and we were all soon making it to the crux. unfortunately wasted too much time, skin and effort trying it in the heat of the day. Tried again as the evening cooled down but too tired by then, bad tactics.

T - went out for Croissants and 7:30 to find it was 2c and the car windscreen was frozen. A plan was hatched and headed out to Canon alone at 9am to look at Chassures des Prises.  Warmed up and worked the bottom but it was full in the sun and by 11 too warm for the top slopes.  Intended to return early the next day but at 6pm leaving Carrefour after a non-climbing family day it had cooled down a lot with a brisk breeze blowing. Mrs asked "is this good conditions for doing that problem?" and I was back at Canon within the hour, got it 3rd go and was back home in time to read the kids' stories.

W - Canche Aux Merciers.  Supposed to be an active rest day but when I saw Mardi Gras / Radio crochet, and with Slackers help via Twitter, I had to have a look. One move proved a stopper but eventually sussed it and despite sketching the top to an embarrassing degree it went and I enjoyed the remainder of the day pottering round oranges and blues with the group.  Mrs got her first orange, then another four including an onsight and kiddy did her first proper marked whites.  A very good day.

T - swim with the kids then a quick visit to Rocher St Germain. Unfortunately misread the guide so we were nowhere near the decent stuff and it looked like it still had it's winter coat on. Kept seeing desperate looking lines that turned out to be blue bis problems.  Tried a few and managed none, called it a day quite quickly.

F - after much agonising agreed to go to Sabot, in the end wasn't that busy and there are a lot of things to go at.  Elucubration / Le Quark was up first, played on it before briefly but never noticed the undercut, I'd just spotted it and was deliberating which order to use it in when an older local came over "La" he said pointing, "avant la hueco?", "oui", "merci".  Did it next go.  After lunch, spotting and kiddy-sitting duties it was time to find Zen, expecting an epic bushwhack couldn't believe it was close enough to the main area to hear the overloud student banter yet deserted and such a good problem.  After some confusion over where to start I decided on a likely point and passed an enjoyable hour eventually getting it after frustratingly dropping the final moves a couple of times. Tried another couple of things afterwards but skin and fatigue won me over and I enjoyed bit of a contented potter over the last hour rather than the all-too-frequent desperately throwing myself at something knowing it'll be a year before I'm back.


Great trip, my most successful visit ever, very pleasing to eventually be getting harder problems in the same sort of timescales as they take me back home.

School holidays this week so unlikely to get much done.

[Oldmanmatt]

Goals.

Keep bloody climbing.

Somehow.

M- Bone hill, mit kinder. Good day. Felt strong. Eve. FB repeaters.
T- FB. Repeaters, weights and core.
W- hmmm. Hospital. Followed by lack of enthusiasm...
T- rest. Shifting furniture (not very restful).
F- Portland. With Daughter. Fun session, plenty of easy solos to equip routes for little Miss. Followed by bouldering under the Fort. Unfortunately, the only worthwhile problem there is the V4 and there was a queue... So entertained with some eliminates. Little Miss OMM (6), waltzed up Mercury and Solace. Causing some chagrin amongst the group of 20 something lads who had taken a few tries to tick it and many giggles from their watching girlfriends...
Daddy proud enough to burst.
S- Eastery things.
S- As Saturday, with more food.

[TobyD]

M - a very sluggish run after work: knackered.
T - routes down at awesome walls; again pretty tired post work but some good mileage
W - a decent session at climbing hangar, a couple of circuits, probably c. 70 odd problems
T - 40 minute run
F - Malham; few goes on straightened: fingers too cold to pull on the crux holds, and fairly low psyche in grim weather, though very inspiring watching caff crush bat route twice
S - 4 goes up the groove to the rest: all moves and some good links, quite pleased given that i've had a couple of days on it last summer and could remember nothing about it.
S - coffee drinking: feeling pretty strong crushing a flat white.

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week. Ugh. 7th week since I've done any, heel is nearly sorted now though, so running will soon resume!
- Weight consistently 68ish.  going well
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. only been on a string once so far, but still keen

M - attempt climbing at TCA. Wrist hurts, do some easyish stuff, mope, go home
T, W, T, F, S, S - nowt, and I'm not trying again till tues - hopefully this'll improve my wrist.

Weight: 69 ish - creeping up, but hopefully this'll sort itself once I can run again.

pissed off with the constant niggles. must be getting old. bored of my heel being almost better but too sore to run on.

[leeroy]

Aims -

Lime 7C - Very nearly there
Sport 8a - not been on one yet
More trad stuff

M - Tried Simbas on top rope with steve, solo feels a way off. Did Dick Williams after.
T - Tried Les Grand doigts at Froggatt, pebble seems to have gone awol on the left high foot. i was nowhere near it regardless.
W - Rest
T - Black Rocks, good roped session. Gaia feeling good despite heat, meshuga feeling doable for next winter, every move and lots flashed.
F - Cratcliffe and the Stride. Old projs finished, Bens wall and genocide ground up. Great day.
S - Short day in the Churnet. Did The Pride above many pads (got lucky and met someone else there) A great experience.
S - Wanted to finish off candy kaned but it was condensed, ok day at the tor. tried wild in me, feels far harder than ornage sunshine.... A couple of laps on Weedkiller/Perverse to finish.

Good week, despite weather being a bit dodgy. Next week looks awful, glad i wrecked myself today.

[wsmith]

Week 13 of plan.

M. Aerocap - 3 sets of 20,10s. 20 min run.
T. 1.5 hour bouldering at Warwick.
W. Had to go to Redpoint to pick up new pad. 40 mins on campus board. A few steeper problems and then a load of slab climbing!
T. 7b+ on grit.
F. Setting all day.
S. Setting all day and a few routes.
S. Setting all day. Ancap in eve - 10 reps of 16 move circuit in 2 sets. Set rest reduced to 5 min. Rep rest reduced to 2 min. Did quite well.

Didnt get everything on the plan done cos of work at the weekend and other things but setting is quite aerocapy and thursday was kind of ancap. Tired.

[gollum]

LTG - stay happy
MTG - 8A whilst 45 years old

M- bit of playing at Leeds
T- campusing, hands freezing so stop early
W- more Leeds playtime
T- campusing and repeaters with weight belt, solid enough
F- Beastmaker board at Depot, do all level 1 probs first go on both sides, but feet off at top of a couple so luckily there are no points for style
S- bit of bouldering at Depot, bit of progress, but feel bad on tetchy stuff
S- campusing at Depot and feeling solid. Leeds for bouldering and circuits. Back to Depot for repeaters and some one armed stuff. God strong day.

[fried]

Monday- Nothing
Tuesday - went to see the physio who told me that my back problem is not a muscle problem but is in fact due to part of one of my discs crumbling away and affecting the sciatic nerve. She refused to be drawn into making any predictions about how long it would take to get better

Wednesday - Indoor, more traversing on jugs. Feeling much better than last week.
Thursday - Not much
Friday - Physio session, but feeling O.K. Just can't stand still for very long.

Saturday - 95.2 - Got there early and had the place to my self, lots of traversing, some yellows, feeling good and didn't really notice my back. Although 5 mins in the queue at Lidl was another story. Fantastic to be outside and I'm smiling all the way back to my new garage just in front of my flat

Sunday - Ache in a really good way, amazing how quickly muscle tone disappears. Shoulder stuff.

Weight 73.2kg

[marky8b]

2/4/12
Chapel session
Power Endurance
Warm Up
7 sets of 40 move circuit with 2kg's
5th (38), 6th (37) 7th 36 total 271
Dead Hanging
back 2 7on 5off x 4/5 x 2sets
Full hang 7on 3off full min x 2
Core 180 weighted

3/4/12
Chapel session
ANP & SSW
run/warm up
100 moves easy to medium boulder problems
Weighted pulls (beastmaker slots)
12kg x 7, 17kg x 4, 22kg x 2, 27kg x 1, 12kg x 5
Core 400 (weighted)
Strength work super sets x 2
Bench (50kg) into curls (12kg)
Press (25kg into up row (25kg)

5/4/12
Chapel session
Power Endurance
Warm Up
7 sets of 40 move circuit with 2kg's
6th set 38, 7th set 36 total 274
weighted hangs 7on 3off x 3x 3

7/4/12
Climbing Cheedale
warm ups
red point on "Orange Sunshine" didnt get it even after getting through crux..foot popped! Bollox!!!

[JDobo]

M - Rest
T - Short bouldering session
W - Gym
T - Late night and too much coffee
F - Easter stuff with family
S - Gym w/ weighted hangs
S - Easter stuff with family but managed a decent fingerboard session in the eve.

Bad week need to get more actual climbing done not to mention i missed an opportunity to get outside 

[tomtom]

Mon > Sat. Holiday - eating, drinking, lazing
Sun. Met up with Grubes and Falling Down at Holmfirth (first time visit) and enjoyed being shown around by Grubes - thanks Did some good problems - including an excellent technical 6C...

Its a year now since my zenith (Underhand) and I'm suffering from not getting out enough and working too much.. but dont seem to have lost too much ground since then... I feel a concerted bout of beastmakering would push me back up again... but for now I may just have a glass of wine

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: Wall, Thalkirchen: early morning session before work, PE boulder circuits
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: 9 routes up to 6a+: stamina training session on overhanging pumpy stuff
T: Bike to work 26km; shoulder mobility exercises
F: Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups w/15kg rucksack. Shoulder mobility exercises
S: Rainy bank holiday: shopping, diy
S: Ditto, minus shopping, plus press-ups, core, shoulder mobility

[Nibile]

heavy week.
MON 2 - system. lock offs: 10 mov x1 set;  + 6kg. 8 mov x5 sets; system bouldering x6. vol 8+. int 8+.
TUE 3 - Beast. sosp max. + 6 kg, 3 sets on every hold. PB on the monos, ring fingers! vol 6. int 9.
WED 4 - system. system bouldering, 3 mov x2; + 6kg x4. footless, 3 mov x4; 2 mov, + 6kg x2. vol 8. int 8+.
THU 5 - MORNING - Beast. one arm max dead hangs. 3 sets, right arm + 6kg on 35° and right eye. vol 6. int 9.
         - EVENING - bouldering. vol 6. int 8.
FRI 6 - active rest. teaching climbing class. one harder problem set and done.
SAT 7 - rest.
SUN 8 - bouldering. vol 6. int 8+.

tried a heavier week, with morning sessions and a double session. good, I completed the plan and felt decent on almost every session. today (Monday) I felt strong on the new project.

[shark]

Weight - 11.3-7

M.
T. Eve. Wave with Ben and Poppy. Average session
W.Eve. Wave. tired. Made progress on Pink and Black spots but it took it out of me.
T. Day. Systems board - didnt go well so stopped after one set
F.
S. Travelling
S. AM Font. Struggled

Now in third week of a trough. Energy and psyche low. Also eating too much. Hard climbing feels like a distant memory and a unrealistic prospect. Feel battered after two days of flailing and failing on sub 7 problems.  Sure I'll be able to grind through but pretty fed up at the moment.

[Dr T]

Hard climbing feels like a distant memory and a unrealistic prospect. Feel battered after two days of flailing and failing on sub 7 problems.  Sure I'll be able to grind through but pretty fed up at the moment.

If at first you don't succeed try something harder 

[shark]

Hard climbing feels like a distant memory and a unrealistic prospect. Feel battered after two days of flailing and failing on sub 7 problems.  Sure I'll be able to grind through but pretty fed up at the moment.

If at first you don't succeed try something harder 

 

Rule #1 of climbing kidology: Much less damage to the ego "working" a hard problem than "failing" on easy ones

[Oldmanmatt]

Hard climbing feels like a distant memory and a unrealistic prospect. Feel battered after two days of flailing and failing on sub 7 problems.  Sure I'll be able to grind through but pretty fed up at the moment.

If at first you don't succeed try something harder 

 

Rule #1 of climbing kidology: Much less damage to the ego "working" a hard problem than "failing" on easy ones

Truth is, we all have " off" periods.
And once they start, it can be hard to break the psychological loop of "I think I'm going to fail, so I do".
You probably need a change.
Maybe, take a week off completely?

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Finish Sardine... Becoming bloody irritating now! Other Peak sport routes 7b+ - 7c+.

M: Fingerboard, stretching and weights - 
T: AnCap on board - Crushed new circuit that I could only do once last session - YYFY!
W: AeroCap @ The Works - Boulder laps (sub 6B) and 2x4's on circuit board (6cish).
T: AnCap @ The Works - Crux of 7c into 7a+ into crux of 7b+ - Completed it 4 times out of 12... DeBLOODYStroyed!
F: REST!
S: Tor - Got on Sardine again - Bolt to bolt to warm up, ballsed up crux on redpoint  Did crux to top, came down tried to work out less powerful way to do crux, couldn't find one, did crux a few times (but tried it loads more) to wire it into my brain... Think I was tired as it felt much easier last week even with a minging cold! Bailed to Froggatt.. Did some bouldering up to 6B+ (fell off everything harder) Properly exhausted!
S: Rest....

Hard week: Really felt like I put the hrs in, disapointed not to do Sardine but looking at the 5 preceeding days it's probably not surprising Made noticeable gains on AnCap circuits.
This week: Fingerboarding, AnCap, Weights, AeroCap, Stretching and go to the Lakes with family - hope to hit the bowderstone (or another lakeland bouldering venue) and go for a good long fell run.

:D
 

[tommytwotone]

STG: Failed Cliff tickage mission as it's now Easter.
LTG: Font 7b

M: First post week in Font wall session. Creaky and lacklustre.
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Nowt.
F: Curbar mission with Plattsy, closed out Early Doors so very chuffed with that - my third 7a+ in 18 months. Also did Ultimate Gritstone Experience pretty quickly, great problem.
S: Oh my god my shoulders hurt!
S: Oh my god my shoulders still hurt!
(M): Shoulders not hurting quite so much, went to Harrogate for Harrogate Town v Blyth Spartans. Drank some beer too.

[iain]

After a miserable start to the year including not much climbing life is on the up again, font is in 3 weeks and the psyche has returned over the last couple of weekends. I've even started training again.

Sun 1st: The cuttings for a chill day finishing off outstanding lines including not falling off the top of the cutting edge. Friend put a rope up Knockout Punch which I did 2nd go which was a major unexpected yyfy and the start of enthusiasm returning. It's all about the grades 
M: First proper FB session for weeks. Turns out I have quite a few niggles which have randomly appeared whilst hardly climbing. Lots of gentle pocket and sloper work, not-max hangs finishing with repeaters, easing back into things.
T: More FB, similar to and improved on Mon
W: Rest
T: More FB, same again. Reading in the evening onsighting. I didn't suck  8 routes 6b to 7a
F: Rest
S: Blacknor Far South. Managed Sparkling Bone Chamber second go after a shocking first effort (took ages to work out the crux) then fell off several other easier things.
S: Active rest day with friends' 7 year old boy including finally having an excuse to play on the climbing pyramid that I'd been too embarrassed to get on myself before. Hope they come back soon.

After my first proper week back (as it were) STGs are:
Mileage
Take care of the fingers
Lose some weight because that way lies short term gains, and less weight = less load on the fingers = less likely to make niggles worse. 64kg this morning.

[Oldmanmatt]

Right you lot!
How about putting height and weight?
'Cos I'm getting paranoid now.
I'm 184cm and 77kg, should I just give up now?
Everyone says I'm a streak of urine, but you all seem 10kg lighter than me!

[tommytwotone]

Right you lot!
How about putting height and weight?
'Cos I'm getting paranoid now.
I'm 184cm and 77kg, should I just give up now?
Everyone says I'm a streak of urine, but you all seem 10kg lighter than me!

TTT  = 170 cm, 64 kilograms(ish)

[Dr T]

Right you lot!
How about putting height and weight?
'Cos I'm getting paranoid now.
I'm 184cm and 77kg, should I just give up now?
Everyone says I'm a streak of urine, but you all seem 10kg lighter than me!

180 ish 79kg

[nai]

170cm
currently 58kg (varies between 57 & 60)