[Dr T]

Has the rain hit yet?
Any bets on dryness tomorrow (Wednesday)?

[Oldmanmatt]

Wet and windy here in Exmouth (I can see Portland from here on a good day, not today). Not heavy yet but getting worse. Expecting sleet overnight, so don't get your hopes up...

[Dr T]

 
Boo
will keep an eye on the met office radar
who knows - might luck out
if not tomorrow then maybe thursday...

[Oldmanmatt]

I'm thinking Friday myself...
Might have dried out by the afternoon.

[Dr T]

Am looking at the boulders so seepage shouldn't be a problem but am starting to think tomorrow will be a bust...
 

[Oldmanmatt]

Well...
The sky has cleared and the wind has dropped.
Not what was forecast...
Might be worth a look if it's not too much of a drive.
Cuttings?
Forecast is good for Friday.

[Dr T]

Thanks for that - Friday would be a bet if I wasn't booked into a family day
might well risk it

one project is in the boulderfield
one above church ope bay - that one might seep but hey....

[Oldmanmatt]

Patchy cloud now and no heavy showers over night.
Plenty of blue sky at 08:00. We usually get the same weather as Portland, about an hour ahead. Should be quite good for most of today...

[Dr T]

Thanks Matt
was very hopeful but.....
Got to Winchester and the car crapped out....
 

[Oldmanmatt]

Well, it was crackin' today!
Blacknor was dry, cool and sunny.
Should hold for a couple days, unless it really buckets down.

Number one child (6) tried her first on rock lead in the Quarry above central...
Maybe next time. Good try though.
Top roped a few on Under Cliff and twice climbed straight past the lower off to top out (can anyone explain how that differs from leading? Climbing above the pro=lead to me, still she couldn't see it that way).

[OffshoreAndy]

Never been  to Portland before. Will there been anything in, boulder wise at the cuttings in the next few days. Does it dry quickly after rain?
Also anyone know a good place to stay?
Cheers
Andy

[Oldmanmatt]

The boulders dry quick.
Can't help with accom, as I live too close to stay over (2hrs away).

[Jerry Morefat]

Also anyone know a good place to stay?

Mates and I have hired out static caravans from this place before -  http://www.glencaravanpark.co.uk/. It's quite a 'local' place (but provides perfectly good accommodation by climbers' standards) and within walking distance of an even more 'local' pub. it's worth booking in advance. There are loads of camping options in Weymouth and I have even wild camped on the Portland itself before now.

[OffshoreAndy]

Cheers for the info. Seems plenty of guest houses around as well and not too pricey.
Still thinking of heading over later today so will be out tomorrow and friday if anyone wants to boulder / sport climb.
Cheers
Andy

[Fidders]

Forecast is reasonable for tomorrow, anyone know if The Cuttings is dry at the moment?

Cheers

[iain]

I was there yesterday. There is seepage in the usual places but most of the crag is ok, lots climbable. Pm me if you're looking for info on specific routes.

Iain

[Beastly Squirrel]

Hey Everyone!
Thinking of heading out tomorow (January 1st 2013 new years day) anyone recon that Guy Fawkes V11 at the Cuttings will be dry?
Any help really apreshiated,
Cheers
James Squire

[Three Nine]

do you mean Guy Fawkes V10?

[Beastly Squirrel]

Think a hold broke, now reconed to be V11, hoping to try it tomorow - anyone recon it willbe dry? 

[r-man]

A recent break? In the comments on this 2010 video, the climber reckoned it felt like 7C.

[Fidders]

I was there yesterday. There is seepage in the usual places but most of the crag is ok, lots climbable. Pm me if you're looking for info on specific routes.

Excellent news, cheers Iain

[Three Nine]

I was more poking fun at the fact that the Squirrel felt it was important to let us know what grade Guy Fawkes was.

[r-man]

I'm just curious - seems to have had a history of breaks, with the grade going up and down?

[Beastly Squirrel]

Did it today Think the tendensy is for the grade to go up - or at least that is what Gaskins thought, he gave it 8a according to my friend The hold(s) that break are under the roof for the first few moves, I would guess the undercut and the side pull, everything else from the lip up is really strong limestone.

[Beastly Squirrel]

Oh and for anyone that is wondering , it was very dry today, with pretty much all of the boulder field being dry and just about all of the main crag!  perfect winter venue!

[r-man]

Gaskins...gave it 8a according to my friend

http://www.dorset-climbing.com/news_detail.php?news_id=1

Seems like Gaskins suggested V10/11. Dan Kennard thought V11. Since then, the internet says that various people have suggested various grades. I was curious if this was because holds had broken more than once, but I can't find any reference to a second breakage, so perhaps it's just normal grade arguing. Looks like a good problem, well done.

[Dr T]

Boulder field looked reasonably dry (but I didn't venture down)
New Cuttings was dripping except Stompin' with Bez (plus MCR) and Sub-youth
Ok for boulders but wouldn't be doable as routes
Even with that in mind the top of Stompin' was getting splashed and was v slimey

Ok
and apologies to the majority for this but - Rant Time

If whoever was trying My Chemical Romance is lurking on here (I would as ever hope this doesn't need to be aimed at any regulars) could you please remove your tick marks.... using them is fine if you brush them off after.... 

This is pretty much the only bit of the new cuttings visible from the path - I know it's not the most idyllic spot in the world but crag etiquette is crag etiquette
  

[olliecamel]

Hi, does anyone know if cuttings either boulderfield or guy fawkes area are dry. Thinking about coming down thurs. Thanks

[Willriseley]

hows the little island doing? heard of landslips and major flooding but hoping for some dryness soon ????

[Beastly Squirrel]

Anyone recon The Cuttings will be dry this Monday (18th Feb)? Particulary the main crag? cheers 

[chris j]

It was mostly dry today so should be fine.

[Beastly Squirrel]

Cheers Chris, not forcast to rain tomorow or Monday, pysched

[Willriseley]

Hows it looking dow that way now weather wise? want to get away this weekend for a birthday trip

[Beastly Squirrel]

Yeah same, hoping to head down this Sunday, will it dry out if it rains on saturday? 

[Dr T]

Yeah same, hoping to head down this Sunday, will it dry out if it rains on saturday? 

doubtful....

[chris j]

Anyone know how much rain Portland's had over the last few days? I know it's going to be chilly with the easterly breeze but wondering if it's dry enough to make the yrip over from Devon worthwhile?

Cheers!

[Beastly Squirrel]

Hoping to go to The Cuttings, Portland on Sunday, will My Chemical Romance be dry if it rains on friday?

[M.R.]

Most routes and problems at the cuttings dry very quickly, including the one you're after (unless it chucks it down of course). Keep an eye on the forecast for Saturday night and Sunday morning, at the moment it looks like being dry both days.

[Dr T]

will My Chemical Romance be dry if it rains on friday?

quite possibly not as it juts out and gets dripped on...

[Beastly Squirrel]

Cheers guys, forcast looks perfect for Sat/Sunday - should be dry then

[duncan]

Any thoughts on what areas might not be gopping wet tomorrow (Saturday)? Or has the whole Island been washed away and is floating towards Cherbourg?

[honroid]

Hoping someone might have been optimistic (/silly) enough to have been down... Thinking Sunday looks like no rain. Worth a 2 hour drive from Reading.........??

[duncan]

The Cuttings have some wet bits but were mostly very climbable yesterday. Teams on Hall of Mirrors, Want Out and several of the 7as.

I’ve never seen the Dorset countryside as wet in 50 years of living there or visiting. Portland west side has suffered some significant landslips.
Facebook link
Facebook link

Fortuneswell


The Cove Inn

(Jonathan Hartley via The Guardian)

[duncan]

Major landslip on the area between Blacknor Far South and Battleship Edge. There is a new cliff in place of the standard approach to these two cliffs. Do not go this way. Routes north of Keyboard Wall on Battleship as far as Think Black on Blacknor are currently unclimbable and, in many cases, gone for ever.


(Photo: Ben Thorne)

[TobyD]

  Blimey, how long before the whole isle starts listing and disappears into the English Channel?

[Rocksteady]

I was down there quite a lot in the summer and climbed many of those days on Battleship. The paths did look to be subsiding, but the scale of what's happened is incredible.

I was worried about Wallsend and Coastguard too, but apparently on a cursory glance they look OK. The Coastguard  descent almost is a landslip anyway, so I'd be surprised if it hasn't got any worse.

[slackline]

Had a very pleasant day at the cuttings today. Some damp/seepage on some routes but mostly climbable (art least in three low grades we eye on, but most other stiff was similarly dry).

 http://flickr.com/gp/slackline/vv3X03/photos/slackline/12678417455/

[i_a_coops]

Anyone been to Wallsend since the landslides? Was hoping to get to Realm of Chaos area, but would hugely appreciate a headsup that I'm not going to either a) die on the approach or b) be faced with an entire wall of wetness. Thanks!

[honroid]

I've only spoken to people who've been to the Cuttings... Seems like people are still in Winter mode?
Heading down next weekend and hoping to go over to Wallsend myself. This week looks to be a little drier so hopefully give things a chance to dry a little after recent rain? Weather looks good with a no strong Westerlies predicted 

[honroid]

Looking dry for Sat. Anyone been down Coastguard or Wallsend recently? Fancy a change from t'Cuttings though might head there I'd there's a wind a blowin.

[mouseliveson]

Any news on the cuttings at the moment?

[csl]

I've not been recently so this is not specific but the cuttings (boulderfield + crag) are both year round venues. Southwell landslips nearby is also a good winter venue.