[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Anyone done this recently... i.e. last year. had a play on it last weekend, admittedly it was very dusty and i am not strong currently. But there was a section which seemed pretty unfeasible and i was wondering if something had broken off, or i you are supposed to go leftwards to a press.

This is regarding the section about 2 thirds up the route when you have made some moves up to a small capped roof and there is a slopey sidepull for the left hand above this small bulge/roof, the options seem to be a biiiiig move  up using a very very poor pinchhold (which appears broken) for the right hand to get to the main  bulge (where i believe the main crux is supposed to be) or potentially pressing leftwards into a layback and then usiing this to gain a good position under the bulge. im about 5'9 and climbing partner is about 6'1 and we both had problems using getting up to what we believe is supposed to be the crux.  Does this sound familiar? Is this just weakness or a combination of weakness and some hold deteriation?

Tim

[Ethan]

I busted a hold off this a couple years ago, its been done by quite a few people since and they all said it didn't really alter the move to much. Was quite a biggish hold though, still got it on my shelf!

[Johnny Brown]

That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

From the two sidepulls below the roof, build feet, then hutzah with right to three finger sharp pocket crimp:



Then get crap intermediate with left by face, stab right foot onto little knob on lip, then either go into weird undercut with left hand or step right foot out onto big hold, forget which is first. Quick shake, then build feet, turn right hand into undercut, get crap sidepulls high left and slap ledge.

[dave]

6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

Anyone for chee tor?

[IanP]

That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

4'' (I'm 6' actually, people just think I'm taller because I try to lank everything!) should make all the difference as opposed to being a good climber or strong or something usefull like that  . 

Interesting anyway, I was determined to try to get the left hand in the reinforced hold you've got with the right in the picture which as Tim said just wasn't working. 

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Interesting anyway, I was determined to try to get the left hand in the reinforced hold you've got with the right in the picture which as Tim said just wasn't working.

Yes mate does make sense. I tried that pop  with my right hand to a backhandundercutpress type of move a couple of times if you remember very last thing. But by then was tired and jaded so didnt give it any real beans. but as is evident in the picture you need to stand tall (i.e. no sagging) and imagine the next move is thactual crux. i.e actually standing up into that roof. 

If the hold i was referring to on the right (which is a none hold and looks shattered) is the one which ethan pulled off..... then it would make a significant difference to the difficulty of this crux IMO.  Anyway good to be pulling on a hard route. my fingers knew about it later on.


Cheers
Tim

[nik at work]

That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

I'm quite keen to try this JB, but it's a pretty long way to go to get shut down by a reachy move. Should I save my diesel?

Just so you know saying Bens done it doesn't mean it's OK for the short

[Nigel]

That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

I'm quite keen to try this JB, but it's a pretty long way to go to get shut down by a reachy move. Should I save my diesel?

Just so you know saying Bens done it doesn't mean it's OK for the short

Yeah, but Caff's done it too, so its OK for the short.

[nik at work]

It's game on then...