[Paul B]

the thing (8A)?

[tim palmer]

the thing (8A)?

ah that explains it then

[comPiler]

Contraband
25 July 2012, 3:25 pm

Since the last blog I've been getting out bouldering a fair bit and going well with ascents including

Black Crow and Black Hoe (7C+ and 8A)

Fine Reservation 7C+

Strict Blueband Reverse 8A

and my glorious addition to Raven Tor link ups : Contraband. This is basically Staminaband in reverse, with the same rules as for the normal version. Surprisingly enough, nobody knows of it having been done before. I guess most people must have better things to do with their time. Anyway, irrespective of the absurdity of this sort of stuff, I was pleased to nearly do it on my first session on it this year, having tried the various parts last autumn. The next week it went down, and it's nice to feel the progress from the last 9 months. James Noble was trying it a bit last year and thought it might be 8A+, but I'm a bit unsure so I've given it 8A for now - we both thought it was probably a bit harder than staminaband. I think the moves are better too, so get to it and let me know what you think!

Here's a video featuring me blowing the last few moves like a idiot. Repeatedly..  

from Guy Van Greuning on Vimeo.

Last weekend it was time to get back in the van and back on a rope with a couple of days in Wales at Dyserth Waterfall, a new crag developed by Mr Orme, Chris Doyle. The main section of the crag is a cool roof above a shallow river, making for a picturesque little spot. Unfortunately, we chose one of the worse warm ups, and after a quick play on the rather condensed bottom of the 8b I was ready to sack it and go home. Luckily that wasn't really an option, so instead I got on a steep 7a+ crack. Some damp holds at the bottom produced and an inordinate amount of whining (something I'm really good at), but a brilliant sequence of undercutting and kneebars later and I was reversing for the gear (the alternative is lowering into the river) in a significantly better mood. The main objective for the day was The Madness Reigns, an 8a traversing an obvious line of holds under the roof before a crux sequence turning the lip. My flash attempt was pretty pathetic, and I couldn't do the crux moves how Mark was doing them, with a bunched up toehook, however I quickly spotted that I could throw my foot out left and hey presto, a kneebar emerged. I struggled to get it to work without a pad, and dangling above the river there wasn't much of an option for getting one thrown up so I wasn't sure how it'd work. 2nd go up and armed with a rubber pad, I worked through the first section of the crux, walked my feet out, slotted the knee in hopefully.... boom. Perfect. For anyone in the market, 5.10 pads are definitely a notch up from the CaVa ones when it comes to friction. Unfortunately I didn't really know what I was then going to do, and although I eventually sorted myself out, a rather ugly cut lose resulted from releasing the knee and I ended up pumping out 1 move from the end of the crux sequence. Next time, knowing what to do, it went down without too much of an issue. After finding a spot with a view to park up the van, and recharging with an omlette containing about 1000kals of goats cheese, we returned the next day and I got stuck into Pete Robbins' direct start to the route, Meaty Madness. Unfortunately this section of rock lost a block shortly before Pete did the link and the scar is pretty wet and muddy, but by stuffing a t-shirt into the worst affected hold, and taping it out of the way of my footholds, the worst of it could almost be avoided. This version of the route is less pumpy but a notch more bouldery, featuring a cut-loose jump move off a toe-hook before you scrabble into the safety of the kneebar I used on TMR. Robins said 8a/+ for this version which seems about right. I logged it as soft 8a+ of course. I'm keen to go back for the 8b, since a play at the end of the day revealed that the easiest sequence was likely to involve inverting to a foot lock round the lip of the roof, in a Randall/P-Widdy style.

Although it was actually a reasonably successful weekend, and I really enjoyed being away and climbing routes again, I was disappointed not to feel stronger after my recent bouldering form. Hopefully this is a question of needing to do a bit of route climbing to get the gains to come through with a rope on. I've certainly noticed before that new bouldering strength doesn't always convert onto routes straight away, and sometimes it takes a bit of time for it to trickle through. The alternative is that I've upped my expectations out of line with my ability, as I do all too often, and I'll have to batter my ego back into line with my finger strength.

Early next week I'm off to France, firstly for a quick onsight hit at the stunning looking crag of La Balme near Chambery, and then onto Gorges du Loup to get stuck into some steep tufa redpointing. I can't wait. Stamina routes, tufas and cakes.... it should be good!

Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Loup tha Loup
10 August 2012, 4:55 pm

So here I am in Gorges du Loup in Southern France, living the trip lifestyle and loving it. Climb, swim, chill, eat, sleep, repeat. Perfect. Though the river is freezing. No rain, OK temps (so long as you don't mind shorts and tops off), and a sea of tufas and chipped pockets to destroy ourselves on. Although I arrived with 5 knee pads, I still found it necessary to make the trip to Nice to pick up another 5.10 one to make a pair - they're a bit uncomfy, but when it comes to tough knees these are the bomb. Despite all the pads my knees are still in ruins, and my thumbs haven't had a full compliment of skin since we arrived around a week ago. Just how I like it. Lordy I love steep tufa climbing.

Climbing has been going well with two 8cs ticked off so far - Quenelle Trophy and Qoussai les maux de la fin. First up was Quenelle, my shortest 8c to date - 20 moves of power endurance on pinches, a good knee and a little end section where you shouldn't really fall but it's not over. With some cunning kneebaring and toe hooking I managed to trick my way through the crux, much to the relief of my biceps.This is a particularly attractive route as it's almost natural, which is a rare thing at Deverse, a sector which features more sika and drilled pockets that I ever thought was possible. Despite all the manufacturing it's still a pretty sweet crag. With that ticked off it was onto the next...

I'm told that ...les maux de la fin translates roughly as "the troubles with the finish", which I found out was rather appropriate. It's an 8a+ to the first chains and an upside down no-hands kneebar, and 8c if you extend it to the top of the crag. Just after the chains there's a resistance section on drilled pockets, another upside down no hander (surely sending this much lactic acid filled blood to your brain can't be good?), another resistance section on tufas, a worse kneebar, and then a final sting in the tail, with a bouldery section on pinches. After this it's 5 ok moves to the chains, but with no real rest possible I discovered to my horror that these moves don't feel so ok. Pumping out I grabbed the draw but couldn't even begin to clip when I was holding this... I think I might have been more pumped than ever before in my life! Next time up I remembered the lessons I've learnt from previous redpoints, and focused on climbing the lower section faster and spending less time hanging on my arms in the lower rests (cue a brutal abb pump in the kneebars). Despite nearly missing the final pocket (pump really screws up my coordination) I just about kept it together to desperately clip the chains.

As well as manufacturing, Deverse is famous for having lots of links, in a Santa Linya or Raven Tor style. Quenelle finishes at the same point as where the 8a+ first part of Qoussai ends, and doing it with the extension warrants the magic 8c+, which I'm psyched to have some tries on. I envisage the most hideous, mind blowing, full body pump imaginable.

Too many routes, too much psyche, too little time and too little strength! ~4 weeks left. Bring it on.



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[Nibile]

too little time
~4 weeks left.



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

You're a good guy and a strong climber Alex (congrats on the 8c's) but that last sentence makes me want to fly over and break your limbs.

[Three Nine]

He's a prick and a shit climber and yes you should!

[comPiler]

Quenelle trophy les maux de la fin
13 August 2012, 5:25 pm



The day after my last blog my friend Andy and I decided to check out another of the sectors in Gorge du Loup – Jurassic Park. The approach to this crag involves walking through a number of fairly small tunnels cut for a water pipe. This is fine if you’re a midget, but it turns out that if you’re 6ft 2 then you don’t quite fit, and by the time we arrived at the climbing I was nursing my sore back like an old man. After all that, I then decided that I was more psyched on my project at Deverse, and I was going to rest anyway. Oh well, at least there were some nice views.

The next day we hit Deverse ready to crush. I managed to get through the hard part of the 8c lower pitch of the link I was trying (Quenelle trophy), but screwed up getting into the first knee bar rest, and ended up unable to extract my hand from under my knee and grabbing a draw. Bugger. That wasn’t part of the game plan.  It was our Slovenian friends’ last day, and Isidor was making it count, cruising up Hot Chili X (8c) like it was a warm up. The send train had arrived. Robbie knocked off SataniX (8b), and I got back on QTLMDLF. The first part went well, and this time there were no mistakes with the rest. Reaching the 8c chains I was feeling good, and set about hanging upside down in the kneebars for as long as I possibly could without my head exploding. The upper section all went surprisingly well, and I managed to keep any dangerous thoughts of success at bay until the very last few moves. With a whoop I hopped on the send train and clipped the chains of my first 8c+. (Stu, I believe you owe me a flapjack.)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Where's (the) Wally (in the lime green shorts). Heading into the upper crux on Quenelle trophy les maux de la fin.[/td][/tr]

[/table]Gasper then rounded off team Slovenia's sending with Sika 2 (8b). Not a bad hour or so of climbing! Straight onto the next, I’ve now got stuck into Asai, a short 8c with a rep for being tough at the grade, though thankfully it's mainly burl on pinches which suits me well. The moves have all gone, but it’s an intense 20 move sequence to the first rest and it’ll be a fierce link.  First it’s time for two rest days and a giant celebratory cake!

P.s. Thanks to Gasper and Izidor for the photos from my successful attempt!







Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Last Soul Sacrifice
9 September 2012, 2:37 pm



My time in Loup has drawn to a close, and to be honest I’d begun to feel ready to head home and have a week or two off climbing to recharge the body and the mind. After a couple of (rather hot and humid) days onsighting in Verdon I returned to Loup with my sights set on Last Soul Sacrifice, a long, classic 8c famed for its super resistant style. It breaks down as a tough resistance 8b to the first chain, where you find a disappointingly poor rest (use the good undercuts for your hands or a crappy knee bar?), followed by another cruxy and resistant sequence to the top. Oh, and it’s all amazing climbing on tufas and pockets, barrelling from around 45 degrees overhanging at the bottom to maybe 10 degrees at the top – just how I like it.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Nat Berry on Sika (8a)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

After a few days of falling at the top crux it was starting to feel like a bit of a battle. My body was tired. My head was tired. Having a go and trying hard felt like an unwelcome necessity rather than an enjoyable opportunity. The weather was deteriorating, and in the gorge clouds and rain mean that the wind of power – the only thing which really allows you to climb here in summer – doesn’t blow and humidity leads to crappy conditions (the wind is caused by thermal effects due to the sun).

I awoke on my rest day, however, to sunny skies and nice temps. Shit. A quick trip to the local café told me that the forecast wasn’t too good so I quickly decided I’d better take the opportunity and ditch the rest day. Arriving at the crag something had clicked in my mind. The pressure was gone. The unjustified expectation of success was gone. The thoughts about what route to try next and what to write on my scorecard – all too present and distracting when my head’s not quite there – had evaporated. And the wind had arrived. Unlike the day before, I was excited to have a go and ready to put in a fight. Not for the tick. Not for the points. Not for the achievement. Just because I wanted to do those moves, flow through those sequences, milk those knee bars until my calves felt like they were going to explode, and fight until I couldn’t possibly fight any more. Just for fun.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sam Hamer on Quossai (8a+) with a busy crag. Deverse is a good place to climb if you need to find partners as there are always a good bunch of locals and visiting climbers to hang out with and get belays from.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Who knows whether it was the improved conditions or the improved attitude, but this time everything worked. It was a fight, even on the easier last few bolts to the chains, but I enjoyed every minute of it. Clipping the chains wasn’t so much a feeling of relief, as it would have been the day before, but an added bonus on a try that I’d really enjoyed. Thank heavens I fell off that previous day, or my experience of the route would have been so much the worse for it. I got some photos taken from a rope as Muriel Sarkany was shooting pictures on Ultimate Sacrifice, which recently became her first 8c+, but haven't been emailed them yet. Stay tuned.

My last few days were spent doing a bit of onsighting and flashing, failing miserably on routes without tufas and sampling Abyss, one of the crag's classic 9as. Wow. What a cool route - relentlessly steep, loads of tufas and blobs, knees/heels/toe hooks galore. I'm planning my return for next year already, and it's top of the list. First there's the little matter of getting 9a strong!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]I love my van!  [/td][/tr]

[/table]

Abyss:  

from TVMountain on Vimeo.

from TVMountain on Vimeo.

Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Director's Cut
11 November 2012, 10:24 pm

Since returning from France I've engaged bouldering mode. If I want to stand a chance on routes like Abyss next year then I need to get a whole lot stronger (and better at kneebaring, more on that later). Ropes were put away for the winter, power endurance training thrown out the window and - with a little help from an elbow injury which doesn't like high volume - my diet of aerobic capacity and capillarising has been stripped down to a minimum in favour of bouldering, bouldering, more bouldering and some hardcore anaerobic capacity work.

Over the last few weeks I've started to feel the effects of all this come through on rock. Problems which have previously kicked my ass were efficiently dispatched - Tsunami, Dancing Fish and Press Low Right (all at Rubicon, all around 7C+/8A) along with Andronicus (an 8A near Stoney) made a good start to bouldering season. (Andronicus, whilst in a pretty minging venue, has some really cool climbing on it, especially if you like knees - don't be put off by the location, it's well worth a visit.)

So, onto the knees...In Loup this summer I realised that (1) I want to try to climb 9a next year, (2) If I'm going to do that it's going to be on steep tufas since these suit me and (3) Steep tufas = knee central. Conclusion: I need to do some training on steepness and kneebar trickery this winter. With that in mind I made a list of suitable problems to try. You know what they say, work your strengths. I think that's what they say anyway. I wasn't listening, I was trying to cheat my way past another crux, probably by lanking, kneebaring or toehooking (or occasionally all 3 at the same time).

With that in mind the last two weekends I've headed over to Wales to climb in Parisella's cave. I had it in the back of my mind that at some point in the distant future I'd like to try Director's Cut, the classic 8B linking Lou Ferrino into Trigger cut. I knew that my use of knee bars on TC would bring the difficulty down but it would still be hard. Fortunately I managed to 'ruin' the problem by finding a double kneebar no hander on Ferrino, bringing the difficulty down to something I could do reasonably quickly, and on Saturday I managed not to punt the end and grabbed the finishing jug a happy man. It's pretty cool to have got up this bit of rock - something I thought would be way out of league for the moment. OK, so it's not 8B any more (soft 8A+ or hard 8A?) but it's still the same bit of rock and I'm psyched to have done it. I did a few other problems and links too - Daisy from Concrete (8A?), Greenheart (formerly supposed to be solid 8A+, now 8A with all my cheating?), Broken Heart and Broken Trigger (7C+ and 8A?), and a bunch of cool easier things.

Rumour has it some people are upset that I ruined the cave with all these knees. Oh well.

I didn't get any footage of the send due to rain and the cave being crowded. I also couldn't get footage to stich together as I ran out of battery. I've put together some footage of attempts the weekend before though for anyone who wants beta, to be horrified at my sacreligous behaviour towards this hallowed piece of rock, or simply to tell me that it must be 7B with all those "shenanigans":

from Alex Barrows on Vimeo.



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Recent Round Up
12 December 2012, 8:02 pm



Since Director's Cut I've been over to Wales a couple more times with ticks including The Wire in Parisella's Cave and Chris Doyle's cool traverse of Pill Box Wall Drink Driving. These are both power endurance 8A+s, though on DD I could keep my feet low on better holds than the previous ascentionists so I don't think it's more than 8A for me.

Last winter my friends and I started to spend quite a bit of time climbing at Anston Stones, a nice set of small limestone buttresses lying to the east of Sheffield. Once again this year it's turning out to be a saviour for those of us who aren't so fond of 'luck based scrittle' as it stays largely dry through the winter months when  the Peak lime is dripping. Whilst the kneebar potential here might be somewhat more limited than in Parisella's, my quest to trick my way through everything continues unabated...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Magnum, 7C+ (Photo: Chris Lockyer)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Be like Jerry Dave Graham (Photo: Chris Lockyer)[/td][/tr]

[/table]After a Christmas week getting fat it's off to Font for 2 weeks. I've not been on a bouldering trip for 3 years now and I'm getting pretty excited!

Here's a pic I got sent by a chap I met at Parisella's when I was trying Director's. Beautiful rainbow, beautiful van...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Photo: James O'Neil[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Pilgrimage to Parisella's
3 February 2013, 10:00 pm

This winter I seem to be spending most of my time going to Wales to climb in Parisella's Cave, and this weekend was to be no exception... Read more



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Golfers' Elbow - My Experience
19 February 2013, 6:46 pm

I've had issues with golfers' elbow since last August. Having talked to a fair few others in person and on facebook about my experiences getting on top of it I thought it was worth jotting a few thoughts down for others in the same position.You only have to take a glance at the online forums to see how common this issue is amongst climbers! One thing which I think is worth noting is that despite some people on  internet forums claiming that the onset of golfers' necessarily means  weeks/months of rest, I've managed to get on top of my injury whilst also getting stronger and fitter than ever - there is hope!

At this point I should make it clear that I am not a physio, doctor, expert blah blah...

The problem:

Last August whilst I was on a trip to Loup I started to have issues with the inside of my elbow. I've had issues on the outside before*, but never the inside. The sector we were climbing at has limited easy routes, so my warm-up routine involved a quite a few chin-ups and attempts at 1-armers. Despite the early grumble from my elbows I didn't change this. Clever huh?

When I came back to the UK I took a couple of weeks off, but after that they were worse than before and things continued to decline. I started to look online, did the usual cheapskate climber self-diagnosis and made slow progress for a few months...

Now read this:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

That will give you the background knowledge.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9343.0.html this thread is a long read but has some useful info.

Things which helped me:

Recently I've been making much better progress and feel like I'm really on top of my elbow issues, getting back to fingerboarding and so forth.

1. See a physio. I hate paying money for things like this, same as everyone else, but in my experience it was worth it. They will be able to (a) eliminate 'other' stuff as a cause e.g.  back/shoulder issues and (b) identify whether the problem is the  'normal' (FCU) golfers elbow or the pronator teres one (see the pdf linked above).  Answering (b) will tell you which of the eccentrics is the one for you  (normal curls or the sideways twisty ones). I hadn't realised until I  saw the physio that apparently doing both of the types of eccentrics is  much less effective than just doing the right one for you. I've had much  better improvements since I started just using the normal eccentrics  following the physio diagnosing that I had the FCU  version rather than the pronator teres one (incidentally, the opposite of my self-diagnosis). I'm fairly convinced that this has been a key factor for me getting on top of my elbow troubles. One big question is what number of reps to use. There seems to be a lot of conflicting opinion on this - 20 reps/day, 60, ~200... My best results seem to have come from doing 3 sets of 15-20 reps. I do them after climbing on every climbing day but not on rest days. I've also experimented with splitting the sets between morning and evening on climbing days, however this didn't seem to work as well for me.

2. Really work out what hurts it. Campusing and deadhanging were out for starters. For me the high volume parts of my training were aggravating the elbows more than the high intensity parts, however it took me a stupid amount of time to realise that. It also took me a stupid amount of time to realise that downclimbing was the part of my high volume sessions which gave me the most pain - I could still do a reasonable amount of ARC/Aero cap work if I did it only going upwards (e.g. top roping routes).

3. Stretching - This seems to ease the pain if nothing else.

This one in particular:

 

The stretches my friend Tom wrote about here also seem useful for some: http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/golfers-elbow-a-possible-solution/

4. Hard massage - The physio I saw really got to work on the elbow with some painful massage. I recreate this at home using one of these: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/hand-massage-iii-id_8211895.html

* The issues on the outside turned out to be to do with instabilities in my shoulders and were solved and are now kept at bay using theraband exercises for strengthening the rotator cuff muscles.

Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[comPiler]

Frozen February
26 February 2013, 7:07 pm

"You can't always get what you want"

That's what the song claims, and it's right, especially if you're a climber and you live in Britain. Sometimes that's not such a big deal though, and you get to do something else fun instead...

from Alex Barrows on Vimeo.

Once again I went to Wales, once again I didn't get to try Pilgrimage. This time because it was soaked with seepage. The consolation was a weekend in the mountains - catching up with some friends I've not seen in a while, climbing the classic power endurance 8A Mr Fantastic and even pottering on some slabs in the warm sunshine once the muscles were too tired for anything hard.

After a couple of days being ill and shivering in bed I got inspired by Chris Webb-Parsons' antics and took an afternoon off midweek in an attempt to Super Size Me biceps and lats. I didn't get what I want(ed). Again the the gods of giving it a go stepped in with consolation prizes, like the kind soul who used to give you a present on your brother's birthday when you were a kid, just so you wouldn't feel left out. I got close, I iced Hurricane like a cake, and - the best bit - I really enjoyed climbing grit for a change!

OK, so I didn't quite enjoy it enough to stick with it for the weekend, instead opting for some limestone crimping including a return to Rubicon. Last time I was on Kudos wall was back in October and I was going pretty well then, this time I was just hoping I wouldn't have gone backwards. It seems I didn't need to worry and the winter's bouldering has paid off - I felt stronger on all the problems, managing a 7C+ and The Press Low Left, previously given 8A+ but downgraded in the new guide which I think is fair enough. Whatever the grade, it must be one of my hardest blocs and it was awesome to feel all the training paying off, damn I love sessions like that! It did bring home just how bad I am at genuinely hard moves though - 8 move 8A? No probs. 1 move 7B+? No chance. Something to work on..



Source: Alex Barrows Climbing

[r-man]

1 move 7B+? No chance.

Got to be The Pinch? Undergraded, surely. Feels much harder than Johnny G 7C to me.

[slackline]

Has there been substantial rockfall at Rubicon if there are bloc[k]s there now?

[Luke Owens]

Awesome Mr Fantastic footage!

[abarro81]

Got to be The Pinch? Undergraded, surely. Feels much harder than Johnny G 7C to me.

Yup. It's nails. Do you put you LF on a crappy edge out left? Only vid I've seen is of Ted putting his LF in the pocket (where tsunami starts) but I can't fit my toe in there. Maybe barefoot is the answer  I also failed on Johnny G 7c and kudos original. Hard moves are hard.

Has there been substantial rockfall at Rubicon if there are bloc[k]s there now?

I'm Just too cool for you old fogies. I was just using 'bloc' to mean 'actually a boulder problem' rather than my usual 20+ move routes boulders.

Awesome Mr Fantastic footage!

Cheers. If there'd been less wind I would have put the sound from the end of that clip on where you can hear my mate with the camera encouraging me to blow the topout "fall off, fall off, fall off..."

[r-man]

Got to be The Pinch? Undergraded, surely. Feels much harder than Johnny G 7C to me.

Yup. It's nails. Do you put you LF on a crappy edge out left? Only vid I've seen is of Ted putting his LF in the pocket (where tsunami starts) but I can't fit my toe in there. Maybe barefoot is the answer  I also failed on Johnny G 7c and kudos original. Hard moves are hard.

Where's that vid? Can't find it.

Maybe someone else will have beta for the pinch. I haven't done it. Like you said, it's nails.

[Luke Owens]

Cheers. If there'd been less wind I would have put the sound from the end of that clip on where you can hear my mate with the camera encouraging me to blow the topout "fall off, fall off, fall off..."

Nothing like a bit of encouragement! Wasn't the guy who did Rockatrocity with you standing in the way of the camera was it?

[Doylo]

I'm the same but at least you're fit!

[Kingy]

Where's that vid? Can't find it.

here it is, I have all sorts of Peak stuff on vid, quality is not great but u get the picture!

[r-man]

Nice one Ted!

[Nibile]

Jesus Fucking Christ how much I love British limestone bouldering.

[tim palmer]

Jesus Fucking Christ how much I love British limestone bouldering.

On that subject I thought you were supposed to match the sloper for press low left?

[abarro81]

Why would you do that when you're about to use those holds anyway 1 move later? If that's the rules I'm happy to change my logbook to read "non- version of press low left" but I don't think 8a.nu do that emoticon. Personally I also think the elim version of tsunami is dumb, though at least that one makes sense as a clear eliminate. You could make press low left like that and say no crimp and no pocket, but most people use one of them for the move up.
Look on the bright side, at least I had a whole video without any knee bars or toe hooks..