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Brownstones De Bushing and a bit of a clean up. (Read 3487 times)

Probes

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Ive started a bit of a clean up on the back wall. Been getting a bit wild on top the last few years and the top breaks/finishing holds are now either filled with mud or buried under bracken. Not ideal as they are a bit pokey up high.
It deserves more attention this wall, its cracking for getting into semi high balling and good for route training.
Ive scrubbed up and you can now top out (some big loose bits about on top so keep a look out)...
Blackwall, colt, rusty wall, stop butt, the slanter & ninja finger.
Going to try and clear off a few more when I get another rush off blood.
Get to it... more to brownstones than Hanks you know!!!   :jab:

Vitamin K

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Top work Probes - I like the Back Wall, feels a bit more gnarly than the rest of it. I'd go up but the imminent arrival of the midge just keeps holding me back.

Still, it feel cold enough...

Probes

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There wasn't a midge in sight last night! Nice chilley breeze.

GCW

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Have you managed to re-climb Colt since some fat lad broke it?

Probes

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Nope but I got very close the other week. It was un finishable tho in its state. I've remembered the trick to it... so hopefully I should get it soon. It aint V9 though  ;)

Was it you that bust it then?  :no:

GCW

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No, I thought it was clm?

Only looked at it once when Pantontino was doing the article for the Mag, never tried it in any seriousness.  Looks nails.

Probes

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Who's clm, is he fat as well then?

Its totally morpho, getting into a position and starting going for the middle hold isnt actually too bad, as long as you can use the shit crimp and suss the feet. But its right at the limit of my reach so god knows how it would be done for anyone under 6 foot.
I dont think anyone has tried it with my sequence tho, Robin was explaining some horrific way hanging the shot holes square on.

GCW

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Calum.  i may be wrong with that though.

If I recall correctly, we were doing something like undercutting left hand to get the crescent thing right hand, then stepping LF high and snatching upwards from that.  May be totally the wrong approach though.

Probes

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Ah not too dissimilar, i just crimp the side of the low shot hole with left instead, high right foot, left quite close to it and slap/bounce.

clm

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Who's clm, is he fat as well then?

Its totally morpho, getting into a position and starting going for the middle hold isnt actually too bad, as long as you can use the shit crimp and suss the feet. But its right at the limit of my reach so god knows how it would be done for anyone under 6 foot.
I dont think anyone has tried it with my sequence tho, Robin was explaining some horrific way hanging the shot holes square on.

I'm massive.

Morpho makes sense. I've always found it totally bewildering.

r-man

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It's 4 years since I tried it, but I found some notes in an email:

I had a hard squeezy sequence - LH sidepull pocket, RH sandy pinch. High right foot, rock right over. Get RH to high shallow shothole, then I was trying to crank off that to get LH good pocket/edge in the break. Felt vaguely possible, but probably not at 7C. I never got near the break, but had enough movement to think the sequence would work with a bit more power and finger strength.

Couple of other projects on that wall too. The best one is usually damp.

Rusty Wall is brilliant. Good work with the cleanup.

 

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