[Krank]

Afternoon,
I'm heading to Majorca at the end of April and I'm after some recommendations.

My mate has the guide and says that everything looks amazing so if anyone has any advise on must do's i would appreciate it. Grade range 6b-7b please. So far we have a couple of Days at Gubia for some longer stuff, Alaro for Buf but that's about it.

cheers

[metal arms]

I quite enjoyed Cala Magraner for clipping bolts relaxing on the beach.  More at the bottom end of your grade range for the stuff by the beach but there is a well 'ard cave as well.

[BenF]

As MA said, Cala Magraner is a nice spot, with lots of slightly polished 6's and a few 7's. 

Sa Gubia is the shit and my favourite crag, again nothing mega hard really but some excellent 7a-7b+ stuff and loads of brilliant 6's.  The 7b tufa line is a must do and not too hard for the grade.

Fraguel is the obvious choice for harder routes.  Lots of routes in the 7's and 8's, mainly on tufas, but not much under 7a really.

Perxes is a cool crag with steep tufa jug fests at 7b and above.  The other slabbier crags nearby are worth checking out for decent 6a-6c stuff.

Sadly Port Soller is closed at the moment, but looks brilliant.  It may have reopened soon though. 

El Fumat is a wonderful spot.  Not masses of routes but an amazing position and a handful of truly brilliant 6b-7a routes.  Can be a bit greasy so go on a windy day.  The shorter routs on the right hand side are fun but very harshly graded.

Don't know the crags in the SW but have heard mixed things about them.

[Krank]

cheers guys

[moose]

I agree that Cala Magrana is a nice spot but there were some pretty terrifying bolts when I went.  Some good 6's near the beach - Xoricsand Asulla etc.  I can also vaguely recall a route at a cave that was meant to be a 6/7a (?) but had one of the hardest starts I've ever tried (I got cheers from a group of amused Spanish beasts when I managed it!) and an absolutely terrifying finish using a dodgy flake!

Port de Soller was really good for climbing in the 6's and low 7's - Blobland, Bubo Mac and Ja Som Five etc.  Sunny coastal location with no walk-in. 

Sa Gubia - a good, imposing and extensive venue.   Albahida is a good day out (especially with the ridge scramble to the top: sign the summit book and walk down for a cake in the restaurant).  Lots of really good single pitches in the high 6's and 7's too (all felt a bit stiff though).

La Crevata, near Porta Pollenca, is good for decent technical crimpy slab/wall climbing.  Very sharp rock but the climbing is generally more positive than the usual "scoop of death" on gray continental slabs.

Valldemosa is a good day out and is literally roadside - as in some climbs overhang the road.  Lots of good routes in the 6's (Sulfi etc) on fairly nice holds. 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=23938

[slackline]

Sa Gubia - a good, imposing and extensive venue.   Albahida is a good day out (especially with the ridge scramble to the top: sign the summit book and walk down for a cake in the restaurant).  Lots of really good single pitches in the high 6's and 7's too (all felt a bit stiff though).

Restaurant is also a bar, ideal for post climbing 

La Crevata, near Porta Pollenca, is good for decent technical crimpy slab/wall climbing.  Very sharp rock but the climbing is generally more positive than the usual "scoop of death" on gray continental slabs.

  nice views too

Valldemosa is a good day out and is literally roadside - as in some climbs overhang the road.  Lots of good routes in the 6's (Sulfi etc) on fairly nice holds. 

Enjoyed a cold windy day here, as Moose says...


Watch out for traffic by slack---line, on Flickr

The other place we climbed at was Betlem which had a short section with steep climbs on...


My Turn by slack---line, on Flickr

...and then less steep area further along the track...



Throwing some shapes by slack---line, on Flickr

Pleasant for a day, but not huge as the #FUKC page shows (but plenty in the grade range you're after).

[BenF]

I can also vaguely recall a route at a cave that was meant to be a 6/7a (?) but had one of the hardest starts I've ever tried (I got cheers from a group of amused Spanish beasts when I managed it!) and an absolutely terrifying finish using a dodgy flake!

I think it gets 7a+ now, but is still an awfully hard first move over the lip.

La Creveta - I'd second the thoughts of others.  Little at 7a and above (there is an awesome, big 7a+ on the first bit of rock) but lots of great mid 6's and defo good for a half day.  We usually go there for the afternoon on the day we arrive.

[shark]

C'an Nyic (Molins de Paper 6b and Bona Nyic 6a+) and Gorg Blau (Pocket Wall 7a) in the mountains are worth a day trip.

The lamb restraunt at Alaro is awesome but you may need to book.

[magpie]

Another vote for Sa GUbia, but if you do Albahida make sure you don't get cocky, decide you can work out a shortcut to the top and off the other side and end up lost in the baking sun for several hours trying not to fall off.

[tomtom]

Mini thread hijack, but I'm off with MrsTT for a holiday to Majorca in a week - not a climbing holiday, but if I pack my boots is there anywhere for some bouldering/ low level punter-eering for a couple of hours?

[BenF]

Hi Tom, good to meet you yesterday.

There is a bit of bouldering in a few spots I believe.  I know Greg Chapman did a bit a few years ago, another friend of mine is going there this summer and told me that he has found out about a few places in the north (near Polenca) and the old Rockfax guide had a topo for some bouldering by the routes crag of S'Estret. 

Here, have a link for S'Estret: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=1092

And here's a link to some stuff near Pollenca http://www.rocksportmallorca.com/blog/blog.php?bid=6

[tomtom]

Hi Tom, good to meet you yesterday.

There is a bit of bouldering in a few spots I believe.  I know Greg Chapman did a bit a few years ago, another friend of mine is going there this summer and told me that he has found out about a few places in the north (near Polenca) and the old Rockfax guide had a topo for some bouldering by the routes crag of S'Estret. 

Here, have a link for S'Estret: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=1092

And here's a link to some stuff near Pollenca http://www.rocksportmallorca.com/blog/blog.php?bid=6

Cheers Ben, Good to see you too & hope you had a good rest of the afternoon. My mono tendons know about it this morning!

Both of those places look just the ticket thanks - I'll get bored of sitting around relaxing in the sun after an hour a couple of days, so will drag the fairer half out exploring for a bit

[BenF]

Cheers Ben, Good to see you too & hope you had a good rest of the afternoon. My mono tendons know about it this morning!

If its any consolation, I've fucked my finger too.  I did some more cleaning and a fair bit more failing after you left.  A terrible days climbing but a lovely afternoon out!  Have a good trip to Mallorca.

PS: I may be going to Harmers on Thursday evening if my finger recovers suitably.  I'll pm you if I decide to do so.

[JohnM]

A terrible days climbing but a lovely afternoon out!

Where did you go?

[tomtom]

Cheers Ben - thursday would be good. Hope it heals up :/

>> JohnM - Harmers.