[Adam Lincoln]

Living north of the border for a while. What are the best routes about. All grades. Sport and trad please.

Hopefully get to visit some beautiful off the beaten track places. Inbetween the midges and the rain! And inbetween trips to yorkshire and lakes of course. 

[SA Chris]

Worth looking at earlier threads asking similar questions to avoid duplication!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14963.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12470.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12394.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12020.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7033.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6371.0.html

(some are bloddering)

Where are you based and do you have jjust evenings and weekends in mind? And what grades?

If the warm weather continues, between now and end of May can often have the dryest conditons of the year, and pleasantly midge free, often well into June.

If you fancy spending some chash, the two volume Garry Latter guide is worth it for a short stay. If you are feeling flush you can buy all 10 (?) of the current SMC Guides!

[GCW]

Where abouts are you, Tanners?

Do you want multipitch with long walk ins as well?

[Adam Lincoln]

Worth looking at earlier threads asking similar questions to avoid duplication!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14963.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12470.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12394.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12020.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7033.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6371.0.html

(some are bloddering)

Where are you based and do you have jjust evenings and weekends in mind? And what grades?

If the warm weather continues, between now and end of May can often have the dryest conditons of the year, and pleasantly midge free, often well into June.

If you fancy spending some chash, the two volume Garry Latter guide is worth it for a short stay. If you are feeling flush you can buy all 10 (?) of the current SMC Guides!

Based just outside Edinburgh. Keen for all classic stuff. Not worried about walking. Long weekends and evenings yep.

Got the latter guides. Also got the odd smc guide. New skye seacliffs looks good. Had a trip to skye last year and keen to go back.

[SA Chris]

Not a massive amount nearby for evenings, but you could always dust off the surfboard and get to East Lothian beaches if there is surf, you can always get some training in with rodma otherwise. However easy access to A9 and motorways means the world is your lobster! you can easily blast up and down and around and about for weekends.

Might be worth asking around (Alan Cassidy or Dave Macleod?) if Anvil is dry as premidge season that will be a good
choice if you want to get on some big numbers sport. Dunkeld is good for a bit of bolt clipping too, as are a few spots around Glasgow way, and Steall Crag for weekends. The sport crags around Gairloch would be good for a weekend hit.

As for trad I'm not really sure where to start!!

[GCW]

I'd recommend Reiff and Stac Pollaidh, plus Old Man of Stoer (proper adventure stuff).
The Ben is a must, excellent routes of all grades.
Lots to do in Glen Coe.
Aberdeen sea cliffs are good, in certain areas.  As is Ballater.
Dumby is always worthwhile.  Cambusbarron has plenty of classics too.

[Fiend]

I moved to Scotland to get to some beautiful off the beaten track places 

It's a constant battle with the weather and partners who are keen to explore 

The motto is always go North West if you can, North East if you can't, South West and The County as a last resort.

Gary's guides generally do highlight the best stuff, apart from a few shockers like missing out Mid Clyth and Ardtun and completely ignoring the crucial wet-in-the-west Aberdeen area. Aside from that just follow what inspires you in there and 90% of the time it will be good as the topos look.

My personal favourites that aren't necessarily the most popular honeypots: Sarclett, Mid Clyth, Inverpolly, Ardmair, all of the Gairloch and Gruinard area esp. Tollie Crags and Loch Tollaidh, Neist, Elgol, Rosehearty, several Aberdeen cliffs, Glen Nevis esp. Wave Buttress, Creag Dubh, Loch Sloy, several Galloway sea-cliffs.

[richieb]

Agree with all of that. A weekend sport trip to the North West (Goat Crag, Am Fasgadh) could be well worthwhile, calling in at the Camel on the way up.
The crags are in the Latter guide but theres been more development since. Mactalla (7a+) and Goat Prow (7c+/8a) are must do's.

[Fiend]

Do the Animal Names Trio In A Day - Elephant Rock, The Camel, Goat Crag - seeking sun or shade depending which way around you do it.

[niall mcnair]

aha! would you be keen for trad too?  always on the look out for partners, where exactly outside of Edin are you?

Would reccomend dunkeld and dumbarton as your first ports of call...aberdeen is good this time of year as is glen nevis, NW too ...then get up to mountainsby late spring/early summer before the monsoon starts!

[Adam Lincoln]

Sent you fb! Yes. Very keen! Went to dunkeld today. Great day.

[SA Chris]

And obviously my free time is a bit limited, but holler if you are up this way. I can at least point you in the direction of some bouldering or people up for doing some climbing. Got boards you can borrow if you fancy getting wet too.

[Adam Lincoln]

And obviously my free time is a bit limited, but holler if you are up this way. I can at least point you in the direction of some bouldering or people up for doing some climbing. Got boards you can borrow if you fancy getting wet too.

Cheers chris. Not brought my boards with me... Ill be up to aberdeen sea cliffs soon i guess.

[SA Chris]

Sounds good. Apparently the O Cave is in good condition at the moment

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10092

and looks like Red Wall Quarry will be a go-er soon

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9495

[Adam Lincoln]

Nice. Whats best guide for that stuff? Assuming sport stuff isnt in guide?

[Adam Lincoln]

Sounds good. Apparently the O Cave is in good condition at the moment

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10092

and looks like Red Wall Quarry will be a go-er soon

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9495

Ignore previous post. Just found scottish sport wiki. Psyched! Just need people to get out with now....

[SA Chris]

That's the place. John Watson had some of it in the climbing yearbook he did a few years ago (2010?) but that's now out of date. Scottishclimbs wiki is the best bet, just wish their forum was a bit better.

[topcat]

Don't go by the Splatter guide for Steall Hut - topo's no good and there's been a fair bit of development recently.

[SA Chris]

The one on the SC Wiki is pretty much there isn't it?

[Adam Lincoln]

Thinking of tunnel walls next weekend. Anyone think its too early? Forecast good all week.....

[SA Chris]

Not my area of expertise, but I think it will depend more on if anyone has been on them this year yet. Can get a bit mingy of the winter. However if you have a brush and are feeling community minded....

[Ian T]

The sport routes will all be perfectly clean and climbable.

Any dry day should be fine, but it'll just depend how cold it is, as the crag gets no sun this time of year.

[topcat]

The one on the SC Wiki is pretty much there isn't it?

As far as I can see - save Dave's new start to Stolen, obviously. Awesome crag for the Spring, until the practical joker in the sky switches on the midges!

[Fiend]

Psyched! Just need people to get out with now....

I am often free-ish and keen. I can't do mountain walkins due to legs and can't do hard stuff due to terminal punterdom but if there is any easy trad nearby I'm happy to mix stuff up and do sport (or hard trad) belaying etc etc. Always syked for the North West too...(where is the sun god dance smiley????)

[SA Chris]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

[Adam Lincoln]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

Went to dunkeld again. Hopefully this weekend for glencoe. If forecast is good we shall go.

[north_country_boy]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

Went to dunkeld again. Hopefully this weekend for glencoe. If forecast is good we shall go.

Keen to know how it is after you've been, although can't get up there for a few weeks due to other commitments.

Keen to check out Dave's new direct start to Scotland's best sport route at Steall Hut too

[Adam Lincoln]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

Went to dunkeld again. Hopefully this weekend for glencoe. If forecast is good we shall go.

Keen to know how it is after you've been, although can't get up there for a few weeks due to other commitments.

Keen to check out Dave's new direct start to Scotland's best sport route at Steall Hut too

Will keep you posted Dan. Whats this thing at Steall hut?

[north_country_boy]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

Went to dunkeld again. Hopefully this weekend for glencoe. If forecast is good we shall go.

Keen to know how it is after you've been, although can't get up there for a few weeks due to other commitments.

Keen to check out Dave's new direct start to Scotland's best sport route at Steall Hut too

Will keep you posted Dan. Whats this thing at Steall hut?

http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/

[Adam Lincoln]

Did you get to Glencoe Adam?

Went to dunkeld again. Hopefully this weekend for glencoe. If forecast is good we shall go.

Keen to know how it is after you've been, although can't get up there for a few weeks due to other commitments.

Keen to check out Dave's new direct start to Scotland's best sport route at Steall Hut too

Will keep you posted Dan. Whats this thing at Steall hut?

http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/

Keen to head up there Dan, give us a shout if your free over next few months.

[Adam Lincoln]

Looking too cold for Tunnel walls so postponed. If anyone is up for an Aberdeen trip tomorrow, drop me a pm...

[Adam Lincoln]

Heading up to Aberdeen tomorrow. Whats the best place for 3 star trad classics up to E5 and get all the sun?

[SA Chris]

Avoid the seacliffs, Haar has been in last two days, so unless it burns off overnight the cliffs will be soaking! Looking out the window its still hanging heavy in the air.

Clova or Ballater would be a good option, far enough inland to escape it. Or Dubh Loch if you fancy having a hack at a big mountain route? Have heard it's good and dry.

[Adam Lincoln]

ok cheers Chris! Good knowledge.
Ballater sounds best option.

[SA Chris]

Would be keen to join you, but away on holidays tomorrow,and not packed yet! Just follow the stars at PoB any you will have a good day. Good idea to orientate yourself from the car Park and plan your day accordingly, rather than wandering up and down to the various tiers and sectors.

There's also a couple of sport routes in Cambus o May Quarry you may be interested in. Worth a look  in passing if you have the time.