[TomP]

Eventually got round to putting a rope down a project I've been meaning to try for years on Saturday. Brimham is full of them. It's in the Lover's Leap left area. I think it's listed as a project in the old ACD guide: page 103, boulder 17, prob 11. It's the big nose/arête left of E.S.P, which Nigel Poustie climbed a while ago.

The problem steps off a boulder to a huge flake under the prominent roof. Some moves up and left take you to a sloppy arête and poor slopers on the face then to a scary last move.

It was already fairly clean but gave if a bit of a scub and figured out the moves, eventually sending it first go above pads. It pretty highball with the crux moves towards the end. Can be quite dangerous for spotters as there's a nasty drop just behind the landing zone.

It's probably no harder than 7b+ but can feel harder due to the precarious nature of the moves and big drop. Genuinely one of the best problems at Brimham in my opinion. This problem has everything.

I've got a vid and pics but I've recently moved house and have no access to tinterweb. Im having to write this on my iphone, which is incredibly slow and annoying. Sorting Internet on Wednesday so I'll post them up then. 

[Adi Gill]

Nice one Tom, it needed doing and has stood out for years.

[willackers]

Nice one Tom!

[Nigel Poustie]

The project listed in the ACD guide is E.S.P.
I have been trying this for a while now, thats why it's spotlessly clean.
I thought it was a fair bit harder than 7b+, I'd be interested to see how you did it.
A quality problem, well done.

[TomP]

Cheers. I thought it had probably seen some attention as it was loads cleaner than when I first saw it! I had been meaning to try if for ages but was put off by the landing and big drop down the gully. It’s not actually too bad; I was just being a wuss! In fact, the landing on E.S.P is probably worse. Was pleased to get it in a session and not take a fall on it though. The rock is totally solid which is nice for Brimham too.

I started on the big flake and moved up and left to a good crimp, with a right heel-toe in the break. Right hand to the nose and then bump again to the high slopey boss on the arête. I then put my heel out far left and moved left hand up to the slopey edge on the face near the top. The last move was a bit of a slap for a decent jug. It didn’t feel too bad with that sequence but it’s always hard putting a grade to it. Suppose it’s probably just better to sat it’s mid to high 7 and let repeaters decide.

As I say, got a vid and a couple of blurry pic so I’ll post them up when I can – probably mid-week.

[Nigel Poustie]

Oh right.
What I was doing was: Jumping to the huge flake put the R heel-toe in, move across to the furthest crimp on the face with my L hand and bring the R into the other crimp. Big move up to the slopey rail on the face with R hand and then a hard match with the L, move out to the arete with R and go again to the top of the arete. Take the heel out and put the L toe on a scoop on the face and slap to the jug to finish.
Sure this was much harder than 7b+ but there you go.

[TomP]

This sounds pretty much the same but I went to the arete first then the slopey rail thingy. Will post vid soon

[scooby doo]

Sterling job Timmy!! Cant wait till I can give it a good try! Get the pics up!

[TomP]

Right, finally sorted the internet at my house today. It feels good. Getting myopia or something doing all my surfing on a phone.
As promised, here is a shoddy vid and over-exposed pic.

[Fiend]

Damn good line that

[Sypeland]

Looks good.