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chipper? (Read 2723 times)

Johnny Brown

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chipper?
December 13, 2002, 01:59:30 pm
Apologies to everyone, especially the grit itself...
had a nice circuit at the plantation yesterday- falling snow, frost on the ground, a little bit damp but awesome friction. Halfway round I noticed Ron's slab (left of crescent arete) freshly brushed, and having read about it recently on this forum, had a go. After a few goes I got established and carefully moved up toward the big pocket, and just as I got it felt my toe popped- or felt like it. The pebble I was stood on had snapped. I felt terrible and had a crap day after that. I couldn't find it either so there's no hope of glueing it back on (have a look this weekend- should be chalked up & in the vicinity). I know it maybe wasn't my fault but I shouldn't have tried it in the damp- what does anyone think?

nik at work

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#1 chipper?
December 13, 2002, 02:28:51 pm
Don't worry - it can be done without using pebbles for feet.
I wouldn't recommend trying to glue a pebble back on anyway.
Good effort getting up to the pocket, what line were you following? i.e. straight up, coming in from the left or coming in from the right....

Johnny Brown

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#2 chipper?
December 13, 2002, 02:40:01 pm
I started on the ledge at the base of the arete, stepped left using now defunct pebble, then up to reach sidepull in middle of slab. Feet high then stood up again. At this point I realised the pocket on crescent arete was within reach so I used that as an undercut to get the other pocket. Would have been nicer without it though, but at least I didn't use the arete. Also would be nice to come in from the left or direct.

dave

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#3 chipper?
December 13, 2002, 03:11:36 pm
while we're on the subject of breaking holds, everyone be carefull with the undercut on the Nose at Burbage West - last time i was there it wasdeffinetly moving and flexing, could break. Maybe someone should look at a subtle dab of sika....

Bubba

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#4 chipper?
December 16, 2002, 10:44:16 am
Quote from: "dave"
Maybe someone should look at a subtle dab of sika....


Not like the not-so subtle dab at the bottom of Mushin then...

dave

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#5 chipper?
December 16, 2002, 10:50:31 am
Yeah, thats one is more like grouting.

Mind you, its still fairly subtle compared to the sidepull on boucherie.

Bubba

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#6 chipper?
December 16, 2002, 10:56:39 am
Just don't let Fatdoc anywhere near it with his wheelie-bin of sica  :wink:  

Actually Fatdoc, did you ever get anywhere with access to Toad Hall ??

 

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