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The Fink Sit Start / Stall Sit Start / Baldstone Traverse (Read 2214 times)

fuzzface93

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Any beta for any of these would be greatly appreciated, especially videos. Still seeking that perfect project :)

Bonjoy

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From what I recall The Fink sitter is a basic hard pull, I found it harder than Stall sitter, but there’s not much to it.
I found the crux of Stall sitter is the crux of the stand, the low moves are ok. The key beta for me was pretty weird but try it, honestly it works. There is an obvious low foothold on the right side of the arete (not the foot ramp obviously), use this with your LEFT foot and oppose it with your right foot on the left side of the arete. It takes all the barndoor out of the move and means you don’t have to pull hard on little holds with your left hand. Great problem.

ben

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Any beta for any of these would be greatly appreciated, especially videos. Still seeking that perfect project :)
Baldstones traverse - I don't think you need any specific beta as such, the moves are all pretty obvious it's just a matter of working it and linking altogether.  I did it on a really really cold crisp day, the friction was so good it felt more like 6C than 7A+ 

Eddies

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I found the Fink sitter nails also (havent managed to link it)
There is a vid on Ben Moons site but obviously he pisses it and so is of no use what so ever!

First few moves are OK on pockets then you have to sort feet out and make a big move off a crappy R/H sloper with a pebble cluster on it to the good hold as used in the stander.

Baldstones trav is fine, just get your left side around the corner before you slap down onto the big sloper with your right, and then concentrate on keeping R/toe preesing as you pull thro the crux hold, then keep feet infront of you on the ramp for the last few tension moves.

Bonjoy

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Just watched a vid of Stall stand start and it reminded me why I step LF on hold round arete (previous beta not quite correct). It means you can step RF easily up onto the relevant smear on the left side of the arete, otherwise it's a very barndoory move. As you weight the RF your LF stays on the right side of the arete stopping any barndoor as you stand up. This method is so good it felt like cheating!

fuzzface93

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Cheers guys much appreciated, If the fink sitter is just a stiff pull then all the better for clumsy campus muggins here. Stall sounds and looks pretty awesome, cant wait to get shut down on sunday :P

 

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