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Trad 8b in Frankenjura (Read 2386 times)

Muenchener

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Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 05, 2012, 07:09:46 am
Not sure to what extent this is news of interest to a uk audience, but I just read in a DAV newsletter that Patrick Matros put up a trad 8b in the Frankenjura, placing gear on the lead.


Fiend

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#1 Re: Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 12, 2012, 10:11:16 am
Since UK is the bastion of hard trad E-grades and all that shizzle, I think people are interested.....especially when there is an exciting new term "greenpoint" (although what happens if someone onsights a bolted route on trad hmmmmmm).

I certainly am. Any more info on it??

Found this video of a 7c on trad, about to watch:


Jaspersharpe

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#2 Re: Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 12, 2012, 02:23:22 pm
Climbing a new route on trad gear I get but I really don't see the point of climbing an established bolted route on trad (unless it was in an area in which bolts aren't generally accepted).

jwi

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#3 Re: Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 12, 2012, 04:40:09 pm
Climbing a new route on trad gear I get but I really don't see the point of climbing an established bolted route on trad (unless it was in an area in which bolts aren't generally accepted).

I think it is natural for training in areas where they have bolted the fuck out of all viable naturally protected routes.

Muenchener

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#4 Re: Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 12, 2012, 07:39:31 pm
Any more info on it??

Interview in German on klettern.de. Might get round to translating bits of it at some point

jwi

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#5 Re: Trad 8b in Frankenjura
March 12, 2012, 08:40:40 pm
thanks! Nice interview (or at least the answers, weird questions... Like "what's your favourite crag/food/music" wtf?)

 

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