UKBouldering.com

Belay devices for working routes (Read 2392 times)

LB1782

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +4/-0
Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 09:38:09 am
I'm want to buy an assisted-breaking belay device to help with working routes (I assume that this is the new, anti-litigation name, for auto-locking).  I'll be using an old, thick rope for dogging routes.

It seems like the newer devices like the Grigri 2, Click-Up, Cinch, Smart et al. are targeted for use with skinny ropes.  I have heard people struggle to pay out slack with a Grigri 2 and a slightly furry 10.8mm rope.

Can anyone recommend a new school device that works well with thick strings?

dave

  • Guest
#1 Re: Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 10:23:52 am
Good old original grigri?

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5414
  • Karma: +246/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#2 Re: Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 11:25:04 am
I liked the Trango Cinch I used - so I went out and bought a second-hand one! But then I got injured so can't add more than that..

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9628
  • Karma: +264/-4
#3 Re: Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 12:16:11 pm
The cinch works up to 11 mm. I sold mine to mrjonathanr and I was quite open in a number of posts describing why I didn't really like it. I don't think its intuitive to use and if your mate happens to forget their grigri and you give it to them, you're pretty much guaranteed to be short roped in your moment of need.

I can't see why you wouldn't (especially now) just buy a normal GriGri, what do any of the other versions do better (apart from the 2 if you're using a ~9mm rope)?

Willriseley

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • idiot child
  • Posts: 107
  • Karma: +2/-0
#4 Re: Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 12:41:07 pm
grigri2 for up to 10mm id say and anything over that a old school grigri would be better and also cheaper

LB1782

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +4/-0
#5 Re: Belay devices for working routes
February 29, 2012, 04:00:02 pm
Thanks everyone.

I stupidly didn't think about getting hold of an original GriGri.  Sounds like its the best way to go for what I want.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal