[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage etc etc (with Sloper Patrol being the current nemesis)
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt
T - Good board session
W - Running on lunch - hill rep session
T - Battering with Grubes on new red circuit at Depot
F - Nowt
S - Early start then off to Brimham. Did a new 7a for first time in a few weeks. Out for afternoon / eve beer session afterwards.
S - Mainly feeling crap and eating sausages.

[tomtom]

Mon > fri nothing but work
Sat: nice potter at Helsby worked V6 traverse
Sun: another nice potter at helsby with FallingDown. Dropped last move (after the hard bit) on V6 traverse next time...

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter, move into route training over March.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, project session - good, did two projects, felt good.
T - Active rest / swimming 800m - fine haven't swum for ages, good to loosen up.
W - Gym, 2x12 mins hard arm cycle, 20 mins recumbent cycle, weights - fine apart from cycling which felt so hard on my legs and got me upset.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, mixed session - okay, mixture of circuit and more projecting, slightly aimless.
F - Active rest / running 13.5 minutes in 2:15/0:45 walking/running blocks - okay, not as bad as thought.
S - Rest / eating a fuckton of beef.
S - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, mixed session - good, did another project, some progress on circuit board.

Decent week. A lot of bouldering @ TCA it seems but it's been going well and I've been feeling fairly strong there. Tried to outdoor boulder on Sat but venues were gash so chilled out and ate an epic amount of roast beef. Swimming was fine. Gym was....upsetting. Hadn't been for 12 days and my legs felt fucked. Just got me really angry. But rest of session was okay. Thought about gym on Fri but decided to try running instead. As fucking desperate as ever on my crippled legs but not as bad as I thought given I haven't tried for ages. Legs STILL sore now (no blood flow = no lactic acid flushing). Will keep trying to incorporate it as active rest. Shoulders a bit achey, need to take care with them. Blah Blah blah.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

School half term: snowboarding, Alpbachtal

M: Snowboarding. Powder!
T: Snowboarding. Still powder! Brilliant. Am contemplating whether this snowboarding malarkey might be worth sticking with after all.
W: Snowboarding. Second consecutive sunny day; powder nearly gone
T: Daytime: Snowboarding. Seeking out the last pockets of decent snow.
T: Evening: wall, Wörgl. 9 routes up to 6a+
F: Snowboarding Day 6: no decent snow left, tired, big thaw. Time to go home.
S: Active rest: swimming with kids
S: Wall, Gilching. 9 routes up to 6b

[fried]

yeh! I got me a car. An estate too, so I can invest in the biggest, thickest mat I can find. Should have the paperwork sorted for next weekend...if I don't get outside soon I gonna go crazy.

Monday - Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday - indoor + shoulder stuff
Friday - shoulder stuff
Saturday - shoulder stuff
Sunday - indoor + shoulder stuff. Blacken a wok.

Absolutely fascinating week, but the spring starts here...

Weight 73.7kg (lowest for 10 years)

[nai]

stg 7C
summer gials E4 & 8a

m ? sure there was something but can't remember
T - volume/movement hour at trackside
w
T- garage laddering 1min on 50s off, 3 mins rest. just completed but had to take extended rest between sets 14 & 15 to retape a finger.
F - 30 minute run + body weight exercises.
s
S - garage laddering 1min on 50s off, 3 mins rest. just completed but had to take extended rest between sets 10 & 11 to quell a family emergency.

Weather fucked me over again, wet every day I could and lovely when I couldn't.    be kinder this week

EDIT: what is pleasing is that my shoulder, while still not recovered, is allowing some kind of activity, seeing a physio on Thursday.  Also my fingernail seems a lot more attached than it has over the last 3 weeks, hopefully that's fixed now too.  And finally, having resumed endurance training after 3(?) weeks, it's quite pleasing that I haven't lost all my gains and I don't have to start completely from scratch again.

[shark]

Thanks T2T

11.4-5

M.
T. Eve. Wave with Poppy. Quick hour bouldering.
W.
T. Eve. Wave bouldering. Did project. Foundry 7A. Almost certainly the hardest indoor problem I've done. 
F. Noon. Fingery endurance session. Similar sess to last week despite weighing less. Core strength keeping contact on screw-ons seemed to let me down.
S. At the Foundry belaying for the YCS. Poppy's first comp. She pulled hard despite being the only one her age group. Tommy crushed. I burnt Steve Mac off on the beastmaker.  Kind of. See blog for details.
S. Beautiful spring day. Snatched a few hours at the Tor. Mainly worked last move on Powerband then repeated Weedkiller. NB Stu, threenine and other anal retentives purists - I matched the jug this time. Had 5 mins rest then almost got it again.

Intentionally easier week this week on the 3 hard weeks/1 easy week approach.   The other main theme this week has been losing the recently acquired couple of pounds which was successfully accomplished so lapsed a bit fri eve and today. Things hotting up at work and considering moving house so some potential distractions in the next few weeks. Bouldering better than ever. Feel ready for the Oak but by all accounts its not ready for me       

[Oldmanmatt]

Oh Dear...

A week of coughing, overeating and sitting at a desk.

A single and not very successful session at Cresciano today.

Serious workout though.

[csl]

Mon - Leeds Wall - bouldering, repeating various things up to V6. Got all the moves on a yellow V8. - Rubbish session really, no structure.
Tues - Nothing
Wed - Leeds wall - Routes. Main wall closed annoyingly - climbed on steep bit to the left of it. Routes up to 6c+ and some good laps on a 6c at the end.
Thur - Nothing
Fri - nothing
Sat - Roaches - first trad of the year - very rusty, did the sloth and some other things. Onsighted Joe's Arete - Class problem!
Sun - Ramshaw - Traveller in time with a stupid fall cos the rope got stuck in the flake as i was doing the slopey topout. First time on an E4 - amazing route!

[wsmith]

Week 7 of plan.

M.
T. Fingerboard - 8 max hangs, 5 sets of repeaters. Aerocap - 3 sets of 20,10s and 1 set of 10min continuity.
W. Short session working negative one armers, front lever progressions and antagonistic weights. Getting very close on the full front lever now.
T. 30 mins hard problems. Aerocap - 4 sets of 20,10s.
F. Routes at Warwick. Fitness not feeling great yet but fingers felt strongish.
S. Ancap - 8 reps of the circuit. Shortened the rest period by 30 seconds but somehow still beat previous records, only falling on last 2 reps Good session.
S. Fingerboard - 8 max hangs, 5 sets of repeaters. Aerocap - 4 sets of 20,10s.

Skin recovery is getting better now so managed to fit in all the aerocap without dropping anything else which is good. Pleased with the ancap fitness but actual fitness on routes is lacking.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As ever.

M-W: Feeling tired from Spain decided to rest for a few days.
T: Climbing Works - New wasps and 6 x 35 move AeroCap/PE @ 2-3mins, 6cish.
F: Tired
S: Sans car so cycle to Hatersage via Ringinglow to meet a mate with a van - Massive headwind all the bloody way!! Bouldering @ Stanton - Did Brads Arete and some easys, had a crack at Spare rib, got scared!
S: Boludering @ Burbage & Froggat - Narowly failed to do 7 Ball then went on Glass Slipper and didn't do that either, I blame a combintion of tiredness and shit boots (along wit the requsite lack of talent)... Came home a broken man.

Didn't do too much this week but was nice to get out on grit, realised that I really need to boulder some more as I'm pretty weak. I also need some new boots. Was great to do Brads arete, what a superb problem! Probably the best 6c+ I've ever done and harder than some 7A's I've done IMO..... Poor show on 7 ball and Glass Slipper tho.... Legs still hurt from cycling!

This week: Start training properly again.

:D

[marky8b]

20/2/12
Chapel Session
ANC & ARC
run/warm up
ANC 15 move problem x 10 reps with 3 mins rest
rep 8 & 9 failure with added 2kg at 13 & 11
ARC 20,10's 4 sets x 6 reps per set = 180 x 4 = 720 moves, between 40degree, 20 degree and vertical wall.
1 set of circuit training
Core 700

22/2/12
Chapel Session
ANP & SSW
Run warm up
Split the session this week, bouldering first around 50 moves different problems feeling strong on certain stuff but definately some improvements
SSW
1 arm assist locks x 4 per arm between 4-6 seconds improvements
Weighted pulls 15kg's x 5 sets 7,6,6,5,6 (1 x 5x 6x 15 = 450kg's)
Second lot of bouldering another 50 moves
4 sets of dead hangs (7on30ff) 2 on small holds (managed a 5 & 4reps) 2 on medium holds (managed 6 & 5)
400 core

23/2/12
Week 8 of 18....easy week coming up 

Chapel Session
ARC & ANT
Run/Warm up
20,10's x 3 x 6 total 540 moves between vertical  wall & 20degree
ANT strength work
Bench press 60kg x 3 sets, 5,5,4 into single leg press x 3 6,5,5
Shoulder press 28kg x 3 sets, 8,8,7 into uprow x 3 sets 10,8,8
core 300

25/2/12
Climbing outside, Llanymench
Great to get outside and climb, felt strong but wooden/stiff in climbing movements.
9 routes from 6b+ to 7a+ all routes 25-35 meters long lots of climbing
(approx 500 moves min)

Hit the 2000 moves this week..

[pete b]

M: 30 minute run
T: Bouldering and some top-roping at K2. Good session but ripped a flapper on my finger
W: 2 hours juggling
T: Nothing. No fingerboarding because of finger
F: > 1 hour juggling (11 balls)
S: Nothing
S: Nothing

[webbo]

M. Board at Rockcity. Managed to tweak something under my right armpit.
T. Nothing
W. Nothing
Th. Weights armpit felt okish.
F. Nothing
S. Weights armpit feeling ok.Bike 2 hrs.
Su. Bike 3 hrs.
Bit of a shit week what with lat/armpit problem combined with chronic stiffness in my upper back stopping me sleeping.
 

[tomtom]

M. Bored at Rockcity.

might see you there tomorrow...

[webbo]

Fraid not, I've got my first session with Melisa who will be attempting to deal with nearly 40 years of scar tissue in my upper back/ shoulders.

[tomtom]

Fraid not, I've got my first session with Melisa who will be attempting to deal with nearly 40 years of scar tissue in my upper back/ shoulders.

Hope it goes well..

[iain]

Climbing has taken a back seat the last few weeks for unhappy reasons and any semblance of a training program has evaporated.

However, got to Swanage at the weekend for the first in over 2 months. Was just pottering really, and unsurprisingly had forgotten how to move, but it was still brilliant.

Have a Malham visit planned in a couple of weekends so fingers crossed conditions improve.
Been planning the visit from the start of the year and had high hopes for some good tickage but with the dearth of training will lower my sights a little.

Aim this week just to get as much done as I can, although I doubt I can make much difference to PE at this late stage.

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - TCA aft, 2 hrs. Continued working mothership yellow, got to last hard move on my best go. Not bad considering I'd had 4 hrs sleep after finishing nights that morning
T - nowt, childcare
W - TCA eve, 3hrs. Mothership had been reset. Got long orange roof prob (7B+/C) pretty quick, and did the moves (thanks Chris!) on the other hard (7C?) orange through that roof. Dropped last hard move twice which was pretty frustrating but good progress.
T - TCA eve, 3 hrs. Finished off steep orange from previous session, not before dropping that last hard move again, and then the actual last (easy) move though. Worked one of the brutal whites with Tom - some way to go on that.
F - nowt, drive to peak in eve
S - Gardoms N and Baslow - MRLH (flash), MR, NR, SotG (flash), Kidneystone, Flatworld LH, Elmer Fudd, For a few Beagles More, A Fist Full of Beagles, The Good the Bad and the Beagle. Great day, YYFY etc. Oh,  and thanks for the pads/beta on the eagle stone to JB, cofe, et al.
S - Burbage - body and skin a bit broken by Saturdays exploits but still a fine day - Sitting in Oxford (great move this, shame the floor's not a couple of feet lower), Boyager (flash) (never 7B surely?), many failures on Velvet Crab (a billion grades harder than Boyager), The Rib (2nd go - seemed generous at 7B+), The Alliance (my god this is awesome, very glad Pete and Dan arrived to spot for the top out though!).
Weight 69.5 - 71

Something's definitely working - that's about as good a weekends bouldering as I've ever had! No big numbers, but I got up a lot of stuff in not that many goes, so very pleasing.

[shark]

S - Gardoms N and Baslow - MRLH (flash), MR, NR, SotG (flash), Kidneystone, Flatworld LH, Elmer Fudd, For a few Beagles More, A Fist Full of Beagles, The Good the Bad and the Beagle. Great day, YYFY etc. Oh,  and thanks for the pads/beta on the eagle stone to JB, cofe, et al.
S - Burbage - body and skin a bit broken by Saturdays exploits but still a fine day - Sitting in Oxford (great move this, shame the floor's not a couple of feet lower), Boyager (flash) (never 7B surely?), many failures on Velvet Crab (a billion grades harder than Boyager), The Rib (2nd go - seemed generous at 7B+), The Alliance (my god this is awesome, very glad Pete and Dan arrived to spot for the top out though!).
Weight 69.5 - 71

Something's definitely working - that's about as good a weekends bouldering as I've ever had!

Sweet.  That would rate as a good a winter's bouldering as I could dream of. 

[Fiend]

 

[i_a_coops]

M
T
W - bouldering up to V6
T - bouldering followed by 4x4s on routes. had to drop grade to 6b very quickly.
F - core
S - core
S

Is an escalating coffee addiction likely to affect training benefits too much? Not that there's much I can do about it with a masters project due in a few weeks..... 

[Three Nine]

Not a clue but a lack of sleep is!

[i_a_coops]

Not too worried about that - too much sleep and not enough work is more my problem at the minute!

[biscuit]

VSTG's

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

2 x aerocap
1 x ancap
1 x routes day
2 x hangs
1 x boulder - if i don't do routes
2 x runs

STG - 4 weeks

complete 7b pyramid

7b - 0 of 1
7a+ - 1 of 2
7a - 8 of 4
6c+ - 5 of 8

MTG - 12 weeks time limit

11% body fat
7b+ pyramid

LTG

7c in 2012

M - lurgy
T - still got lurgy but was last chance to see a mate before he left Chorro so went anyway
W - lurgy
T - lurgy
F - lurgy
S - fingerboard AEROCAP
S - El Torcalito ANCAP

Disaster on Tues. Felt rough so got all kit packed the night before so i could stay in bed a bit longer. Stayed in bed too long, rushed and forgot my pack. No shoes, rope harness, draws, water, lunch or dog's lunch. Scrounged harness and shoes that needed re soling and were 2 sizes too big, bought lunch of chorizo and chocolate as i only had a couple of euros on me. Got to crag and the bloody dog ate it. Aaaarrgh ! Group decided to go to Sector Solarium. The name is not ironic and Winter seems to be over here. It was boiling.

Despite all that i had a good time. On-sighted a 6c which felt soo easy. Did another 7a 2nd go and had a go on some 7b's. Solarium felt very do able but the one to the right of it felt totally impossible. Had 2 goes on solarium ( top rope ) and got it in 2 overlapping sections. Found a better rest on my last go, though after i'd fallen off. Still need some falling practice. I am hopeful that if 7b's feel do able whilst ill and hungry with clown shoes on they should go fine when all is normal.

Decided to do aerocap work on the fingerboard and feet on a chair. Boring as chuff but means i don't have to travel for over an hour to then do a session at a busy crag that isn't exactly made for it. It actually seems to work quite well as it's very easy to manage the level of effort.

Got a really good ancap 4x4 worked out now. I failed on the last problem of the 3rd set but i think that's more because the problems are new. With familiarity i am sure i'll get there. I need to move the last problem to be the first i think as it's got a definite crux on it that caused me to fail.

Body fat stayed the same which was a surprise as i ate more than usual, but healthily, while ill; until Friday when i had a mad sugar craving day and ate chocolate digestives, chocolate bar, 2 cans of coke and various other crap.

So i am going to repeat last week this week and go from there.

[chris05]

I have been away so missed a week.

M: BM: max hangs, front lever progs, theraband, 6m run
T: bouldering at NCC
W: 6m run
T: ?
F: ?
S: travel to Morocco
S-S: surfing, one run on the beach & plenty of walking

Good trip, Tamri was the saviour of the first week as it was the only place with any surf but the last few days improved with the points working, had really good surf at Killer's, Mysteries and Le source. Now time for some climbing..

[tomtom]

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

How are you working this out?

[shark]

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

How are you working this out?

IIRC he uses one of the Omron hand held fat monitors.

From what I've picked up the absolute readings are questionable but they are useful for monitoring changes.

[tomtom]

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

How are you working this out?

IIRC he uses one of the Omron hand held fat monitors.

From what I've picked up the absolute readings are questionable but they are useful for monitoring changes.

Like one of these?

[Oldmanmatt]

I was using a set of scales with the built in resistance meters.
Not much cop, as sweaty feet threw the whole thing out...

[shark]

Periodically I get an assessment at the Uni Sports Science lab. The Impedence machine there cost several £1000's. Last result was a few weeks ago but lost a couple of kgs (probably a bit too quickly) since then. Assuming that loss was all fat then as of this morning I calculate that I'm 7.8% which I'm pretty chuffed with. I gather the level you can safely go to is 5% but be interested in the views of any pros out there...??

[biscuit]

Average body fat under 12.5% This week average 12.9%

How are you working this out?

IIRC he uses one of the Omron hand held fat monitors.

From what I've picked up the absolute readings are questionable but they are useful for monitoring changes.

Correct. They are constant in their accuracy, if that makes sense. They may be a % or 2 out, some say up to 5% but they are always that far out, if they are. So they are cheap and easy to use to measure changes over time. I reckon mine are about bang on to be honest, though i wish they weren't as i didn't like what they said this morning.

I was advised to get some with a detachable hand held unit and you also stand on the base unit. This is supposedly more accurate as the current travels through your body better.

Mine were about £35 if i remember from Amazon. Great bit of kit for keeping you motivated. I soon slide off the path of righteousness when i stop using them. It's a great reminder every morning.