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Knackered rope... (Read 2505 times)

gremlin

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Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 10:25:24 am
I have a rope (Beal Edlinger II ) that is a couple of years old and has seen little use and been mainly used for indoors.

After taking a fall last night I noticed that at one end (where the figure of 8 is tied) the outer casing had ruptured and exposed the innards of the rope!

The rest of the rope looks good.

Should I:

A. Cut off the offending bit and continue to use it?

B. Bin it and get a new one?

metal arms

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#1 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 11:40:05 am
I vote A.  If you choose B I will happily take it off your hands though.

N.B.  I am not responsible for any mishaps that may occur from whatever action you choose.

Serpico

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#2 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 11:52:46 am
Did you notice that 20m furry rope I was using last night? that was originally 80m long, when you see it next it'll be 17m...

gremlin

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#3 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 11:56:38 am
Did you notice that 20m furry rope I was using last night? that was originally 80m long, when you see it next it'll be 17m...

Nope. I did notice you crushing 7a tho' and continuing past the last clip and out left to make the route longer!  :bow:

OK, next question. Is there a preffered way to cut te rope? I'm guessing that using a super sharp knife and making a nice clean cut first time is the best way?
Does the end need to be sealed in any way?  :-\

Serpico

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#4 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 12:03:28 pm
That was first time on a rope since October - it was more wobble than crush.
Re: cutting the rope, I bind the section of rope I want to cut tightly with tape, put that section of the rope under tension (cuts easier and cleaner), cut through the middle of the tape, then seal with a hot knife, or if at the crag, a cigarette lighter. If you've got a really hot knife that'll stay hot enough whilst cutting, you could just cut through with that, sealing as you cut.

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#5 Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 12:38:23 pm
Bit of broken hacksaw blade, held in mole grips, heated on the hobb.
Makes a real mess of Mrs OMM's chopping boards, but works well.

gremlin

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#6 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 12:49:53 pm
Fortunately or un-fortunately, depending on your perspective, there's no Mrs Gremlin so I can slash and burn to my heart's content  :)

gremlin

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#7 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 02:42:23 pm
That was first time on a rope since October - it was more wobble than crush.

Well, I'm hoping that some time in the not too distant future I can "wobble" up a 7a myself!  :lol:

TobyD

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#8 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 03:02:52 pm
I have a rope (Beal Edlinger II ) that is a couple of years old and has seen little use and been mainly used for indoors.
After taking a fall last night I noticed that at one end (where the figure of 8 is tied) the outer casing had ruptured and exposed the innards of the rope!

I cut off my ropes a good 8 inches below the coreshot (ie: the 'exposed innards'). Most climbing shops will have a hot wire rope cutter, and bored staff will usually be happy to chop it for you. Failing that, I get hold of most rubbish table knife available and heat it with a hob (wrap a towel around the handle!) and chop it with one firm action, then stick a thin layer of tape around the new end.

remus

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#9 Re: Knackered rope...
February 15, 2012, 04:01:19 pm
A quick note on the chop-then-seal method, I find you can get a much cleaner result if you wet your fingers and shape the seal while it's still warm. Avoids that weird blobbly shit you can get around the edge of the seal. Try not to get lumps of burning rope stuck to your fingers, it hurts. Warming a ~1cm section on the end of the rope also helps stop the seal falling apart.

 

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