[duncan]

STG: Rehab. ankle. Get fit for Verdon trip in April.
MTG: E5

M - Fingerboard - Repeaters - Feet on
T -
W - Fingerboard - Repeaters
T - The Arch - Very easy traversing 20 mins.
F -
S - Pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff; Fingerboard - Repeaters - Feet on
S - Interval training on Parliament Hill with 13kg load.

Stinking cold all week, so took it pretty easy.  Despite this, felt some progress on the fingerboarding.  Steady as she goes. 

Was persuaded to accompany the lad to "Groovy T0ts" on Saturday.  Every bit as buttock-clenchingly dreadful as the name suggests.  For Fit Club purposes it also involved dancing.  At 10am, while sober.  Resulting in psychosomatic ankle sprain reoccurrence.  Sledging on Sunday didn't help either, not that I would have missed the latter for anything. 

[Muenchener]

STG: Broughton 5c
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

UK visit, mostly busy with family stuff.

M: rest
T: travel to .uk; family stuff
W am: tried to fit in a quick session at Rockover, only to discover Rockover opens at noon. Went shopping instead; bought Beastmaker in Brighams. Pm: family stuff.
T: Rockover (due to easier accessiblilty by pulbic transport than Broughton). Friendly place, pleasant session although grades seem v. soft: I can't routinely flash V3/4 (6B/+?) anywhere else I've climbed lately, indoors or out.
F: Burbage South. Brief stop en route between family members. Nothing of note done: frustrated by near-impossibility of keeping boots clean without a mat. However did we manage bitd?
S: Broughton: v. short session before centre closed early due to snow. Nobody there, cold, polished. I can see that it would still be a great place to train regularly & get wicked strong, but not for the casual visitor. Adjourned to nearby Rockover for endurance session on traverses & circuits (but not before ticking Broughton 5c yyfy)
S: travel home

[fried]

Taking it easy, steady as she goes.

Monday - easy indoor, plus weights.
Tuesday - Wednesday - nuffin'
Thursday -Shoulder stuff
Friday - Indoor, apparently the showers were being fixed, so there was no water. Got a free beer but dehydration soon set in.
Saturday - nada
Sunday - Shoulder stuff.

Weight - no idea, far too cold to take any clothes off.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage by Easter 2012
LTG: Font 7b

M - 5 mile run at lunchtime
T - Decent board session...at last!
W - 5 mile run at lunchtime
T - Depot session on new crimpy wood circuit
F - Nowt
S - Shipley, for about an hour until the snow came. Detour to pub, then Depot for a bit of a half arsed attempt to get going again.
S - Nowt

[leeroy]

stg - climb some stuff hard in font

m - l'angle bens and deferlante dispatched
tu - super prestat and did what ondra couldnt and onsighted marie rose
w - onde de choc (first 7b flash yyfy  )
th - nowt
fr - carnage done, nearly sitter
sa - rest/moving day
su - tried lots and failed lots at the elephant and dame jouanne.

[i_a_coops]

M Top roping routes. Onsighted a 7b+ like a boss.
T foot hurts
W top roping routes + lowball bouldering.
T foot hurts.
F - 
S - hungover. Stamina training with Jacob, christ I am unfit. core session.
S - foot hurts

Starting to notice correlation between climbing and my foot hurting the next day...

[Oldmanmatt]

Stg Super Trooper.
Ltg  8A anywhere, 8a without top roping.

M- Did not make it to the Quay... Got within 100mtrs when the phone dragged me away.
T- n
W- Quay, bouldering, worked some of the hard stuff (still not finished any of the new ones).
                Began my stamina training, found a good 7a route with an auto-belay and a good variety of moves at a sustained grade. Climb it, 2 min rest, climb it again. Managed five times before I couldn't finish the route.
Campusing the systems board 1-4 (two sets only)

T- tired
F- Quay, duff session, some bouldering; cut short by the Mrs falling on the stairs...
S- nothing
S- Core, Chest, shoulders and pull ups

Still can't mantle, due to shoulder. However, working it, specifically, seems to be extending the time between failure and early response to a tweak is preventing relapse... I hope.

[csl]

Mon - Leeds Wall - Led a 6c on main wall clean so fitness must be coming back a bit
Tues - board sesh
Wed - Stanage/Burbage - Failed on almost everything - but felt it the next day so was ok.
Thur - nothing
Fri - cycling
Sat - lakes winter - just couple of pitches of a V on Scafell - had to bail cos we were going too slow.
Sun - snowboarding/skiing

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering, easy circuit @TCA - mediocre, was hoping to get back into proper training but too weak after gayflu.
T - Rest.
W - Outdoor bouldering, circuits AND projects @Glen Nevis - good, did lots, finished project, good active day out.
T - Gym, 2x12mins arm cycling, 20 mins rec. cycling, weights - good, felt fairly energetic.
F - Rest.
S - Nothing - suck.
S - Indoor bouldering, full easy circuit @TCA - good, easy stuff but kept it going.

Okay week. Weak at first after gayflu but got back into things in the middle of the week with a good bouldering/gym back to back. REALLY needed to do something on Fri/Sat and should have. Next week I'll have to discipline myself to 2 gym sessions.

[fried]

stg - climb some stuff hard in font

m - l'angle bens and deferlante dispatched
tu - super prestat and did what ondra couldnt and onsighted marie rose
w - onde de choc (first 7b flash yyfy  )
th - nowt
fr - carnage done, nearly sitter
sa - rest/moving day
su - tried lots and failed lots at the elephant and dame jouanne.

Must have been brutal out there last week!

[nai]

stg 7C
summer goals E4 & 8a

m-w a few body weight bits & core but avoid climbing to allow finger nail to heal. nothing significant except on Wed I caught my daughter falling off a climbing frame and wrenched my shoulder.
T - complete shutdown on Tetris, couldn't even do it from the stand.  Shoulder complained
F - Shoulder nagged throughout a very thorough warm up but got on Famous Grouse and it suddenly felt ok.  Frustrating day, tried about 50 methods of reaching 2nd LH sloper all to no avail. Subsequently found some beta that confirms I was on the right lines, keen to get back and try the small tweak asap.
s - succumb to cold that has infected the rest of the house all week
S - eugh.

Very poor week after the previous few. worst I've climbed for ages.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (1 done)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: assisted one-armers, 5m run, theraband, Front lever progs & eccentric curls
T: BM: max hangs, theraband & front lever progs
W: Bouldering at RHS and cratcliffe (beautiful day out, managed a new 7A)
T: rest
F: 5m run, bicep eccentrics
S: Bouldering at Stanton Moor (didn't manage anything hard but lots of easier stuff and a quick go on Brad's wall before snow stopped play) & bicep eccentrics
S: bicep eccentrics & work, should have gone for a run later but went to the pub instead.

[pete b]

M: 30 minute run
T: Bouldering at K2. Didn't feel strong for some reason. Most likely too tired.
W: 2 hours juggling.
T: 1 hour Finger/campus board session. Encores / one arm hangs with counterweight.
F: 1 hour juggling.
S: Nothing.
S: 3 hours juggling.

I've also been doing some 'grease the groove' style training by hanging on the beastmaker a bit every time I go up or down the stairs.

[iain]

Goals: 7C in Font/April, 7c+/8a before then
65kg av. Up slightly on last week although I'm fairly pleased with that given the week I've had.

This was the last week of first block:

M: Max hangs - improved intensity and volume, Ancap - 10 reps up from 6 in week 1, assisted one-armer set (not really aiming for anything, I do this for maintenance)
T: Aerocap: 3 min easy 20/10 to warm up then 4 reps of 4 mins, 6x15 push-ups, 4x10 pull-ups (Week 1 was 3x3min reps, 5x10 push, 3x6 pull)
W: Was supposed to be ARC but felt  . Not possible to have a decent bouldering session where I was so max hangs as best I could and then one armer's, front levers etc. as it was nice to have the space to do these properly. Unstructured but fun session only spoilt by lack of audience   
T: Repeat of Tues
F: Rest
S: Was supposed to be climbing outside but working week and lack of sleep got the better of me. Repeat of Mon's sesh
S: Repeat of Tues

Feel stuffed today but in a good way. Volume has improved hugely since week 1 and intensity up too. Easy week now

the phone dragged me away.

Any news Matt?

[shark]

Thanks Duncan

Weight 11-4-5

M. Day. Messed about with various hangs, pullups, DB exercises and tinkered with angle of systems board and added screw on footholds to make moves symmetrical and worked out a training sequence. Popped into Foundry on way home for quick boulder on Wave then had a hopeless session in the shed on the Oak circuit trying to do sections with short rest intervals.
T. Day. Deadhangs and attempted front levers. Eve. Foundry with Poppy and Ben. Did a campus session - first one for a year? Did really well by my low standards but felt shattered after. Slept like a baby
W.Day. Tried a few hangs etc but hopeless. Felt like I was coming down with a cold. Ate lots
T.  Still felt like I was coming down with something. Ate lots.
F. PM. Malham with ShortRound  Got a few goes in on the Oak. Felt strong did some good links. Tweaked left shoulder on first go up.
S. 5k Park Run. Poppy at Brownie camp so did first hard run for years. 23.09. Beat my wife.. just and John Godding    Shoulder still sore.
S. PM.  Malham with Wil  Got a few goes in on the Oak. Felt strong did some good links. Shoulder was playing up but seemed to get a lot better on the last go 

Funny week - training went to pot. Can't believe the Oak is dry - what a treat !

[Luthor]

S. 5k Park Run. Poppy at Brownie camp so did first hard run for years. 23.09. Beat my wife.. just and John Godding    Shoulder still sore.

Nice one, didnt see you there or would have said hello! :-)

ps. would be keen for a Malham trip at some point

[shark]

S. 5k Park Run. Poppy at Brownie camp so did first hard run for years. 23.09. Beat my wife.. just and John Godding    Shoulder still sore.

Nice one, didnt see you there or would have said hello! :-)

ps. would be keen for a Malham trip at some point

Yeah surprised I didnt bump into you though there are a lot of runners. Bloody cold wasn't it? Tempted to put in a bit of practice to catch Tom up but will require work as he did 21:43 - he's only just turned 11 !

If temps stay low could be on for a friday pm and sunday hit again.

[Luthor]

not posted on here for a while.

STG     - Train for sport routes / have fun bouldering / run faster
MTG     - F8a sport
_______________________________________________

Mon     - P.E. session on circuit board at works.
Tue     - Bouldering session at works. Did the new yellow bloc probs and worked some of the blues (got one)
Wed     - 8.5mile cross-country run (active recovery session?)
Thurs   - P.E. session on circuit board at works (lunchtime). 4x4's at  The Edge (after work)
Fri     - Rest
Sat     - 5km parkrun. Attempted to boulder at Froggatt. Couple of goes on Rambeau before snowed off, ended up at Works for a bit.
Sun     - Rest / Sledging with kids

[ShortRound]

Was the cove still dry on Sunday then? I was worried that the saturday snow might have melted or caused your Beemer some problems for the drive up.

[shark]

Was the cove still dry on Sunday then? I was worried that the saturday snow might have melted or caused your Beemer some problems for the drive up.

Wil drove but roads were clear anyway. Seepage level was pretty much identical to Friday.

[wsmith]

Week 4 of plan.

M: Mega ill Sunday night so lay in bed all day. Managed to get up in the evening and went to the boulder comp at Northampton. Surprisingly a good decision as I didnt feel too bad and climbed alright too.
T: Felt shit.
W: Still felt bad but had a short session in the day on a bar doing assisted one armers, locks and core. Another short board session in the eve. Started Aerocap, did 2 of the 4 10min reps.
T: Went to Warwick to do some routes but no partner so ended up bouldering. Still recovering.
F:
S: Went down to Milton Keynes, good to get on some different setting at a different wall. Routes and bouldering. Aerocap on their auto belay thing.
S: Board session. A few hard problems, then ancap. Added 5 moves to the end to make it 25 moves. Normal session of 2 sets of 4 reps with 3min rest between reps. Plan to reduce this rest once I can complete the circuit on the first 4 reps. Good session.

First half of the week not great but finished better. Still need to do more routes and less bouldering though.

[marky8b]

30/1/12
Chapel Session ANC & ARC
Run/Warm Up
ANC steep wall, 14 move problem 9 reps with 3 min rest. Harder problem than last week
ARC, 20, 10's 3sets with 5 reps per set
1 set 40 degree wall
2nd set 20 degree wall
3rd set vertical wall
total moves 450
Circuit training  6 exercises’ 1 min each station x 2 sets, Press ups, Crunchie 1, Pull ups steep wall, Shoulder press/up row, Crunchie 2, Bicep curl
500 core

1/2/12
Chapel session ANP & SSW
Run/Warm Up
Bouldering approx 100 moves on various problems, feeling stronger on some of
SSW
1 arm assist work, left hand 4 reps 3/5 secs with 15kg, 4th set 20kg good 5secs feeling weak on this arm! Right hand 3 reps 4/5 secs 15kg
Weighted Pulls x 4 sets 15kg, 5, 5, 5, 4 (1x4x4.75x15=285kg)
Dead Hang x 4 7on3off small campus edge, 2 sets @ 6 reps, 2 sets @ 5 reps

2/2/12
Chapel session ARC & ANT
Warm Up
20,10's on 40 degree wall x 2sets x 5 reps =300 moves, 20,10's on 20 degree wall x 1set x 5reps = 150 moves, 20, 10's on vertical wall x 1 set x 5reps = 150 Total 600
Ant strength work
Bench 50kg x 3 x 10 & Single leg press x 3 x 6 (each)
Press 30kg x 3 x 8,7,6 & Uprow x 3 x 8,7,6
600 core

4/2/12
Peak Millstone
bouldering keyhole area, sections of traverse, technical master both sides, tried master chef 2/3 times, 2 goes up to shot holes on Masters Edge, very cold, snow showers and windy! (150/200 moves during the day)
Happy with the week, although need to get onto the real stuff more 

[webbo]

M. Bouldering Rockcity, reasonable session did few new things.
T. Nothing.
W. Bouldering Rockcity repeated everything from Monday 1st go. Worked a few projects.
Th. Rockcity power endurance up/down stepped on jugs into a problem, about 20 hand moves.
F. Nothing, out for a meal with the missus.
S. Felt rough. Out buying houses first thing. Afternoon Rockcity I was a bit shit.
Su. Weights good session. Walk with missus in snow 1hr.

[205Chris]

STG: Off to the County next weekend for a few days. Pretty keen for Northern Soul if it's as good as everyone says it is.

M: Works - Tried the new blue circuit. Managed one. Quite pleased to avoid the duck.
T - Works - Did the 20 problems on the new yellow circuit. Picked up a couple more blues to triple the tick count!
W - Nada
T - Nada
F - Went to try Mossatrocity but my friend aggravated his shoulder on it. Bailed to Secret Garden and ticked Dick Williams and Nige's Problem.
S - Nada
S- Nada

Slow week due to various commitments. Good to get out on Friday, conditions were excellent. Keeping my fingers crossed for some good weather next week.

[tomtom]

M: nothing
T: Watched Hull somehow snatch a 0:0 draw from the jaws of a 4:0 victory over Donny...
W: Rockcity. Well its training I guess...
T: nothing
Fr: Trip to Secret Garden, met up with Plattsy, a fun though unsuccessful trip.. foot/knee popped off on last move on beachball.. nearly nearly.. I'd forgotten how burly SG can be. Went to see (no irony intended) Sner Patrol at the MEN in the evening.. a good day all in all...
Sa: Watched lovely snow fall and turn to sleet/slush
Su: Couldnt be bothered to scrape the slush from the car to head to Logport wall for an hour of plasticness, so went and did some sholder weights, core exercises and encores on the BM.

Hmmm... good and bad week... no leaps forwards but still, not going backwards...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Not be a complete punter in Spain next week, F7c+ 2012, F8a 2013..... Sub-goal: Find an ace 7B to do this season and tick some great looking 7A's that I've spotted recently.

M: 7 mile road run - Working off lurgy and weight control.
T: Busy nowt.
W: Busy nowt.
T: Half yellow circuit and hard AeroCap/PE @ The Works - 8 x 30 move 6cish @ 3 mins rest.... Boxed!
F: Boulder @ Froggatt - Aimed to go do Glass Slipper but stopped at Hairpin to warmup as it was in the sun and got sidetracked doing problems up to 6Cish (Vanishing point etc..), went and looked at Glass Slipper - Looks ace! Must go do this soon.
S: Boulder @ The Works - General mileage session and a few steady yellows.
S: Boy comes down with hideous fever based lurgy.... by 2pm I've got it too.... by 6 so has mrs DD...... Touchwood little miss 3 months don't come down with it...Booooooo!

The opposite of last week - Started good, ended shit... Good to get the lurgy out of the way before Spain..... but booo.... Lurgy sucks! Finger's still behaving (i.e. not getting any worse) tho.

This week: Recover before Thursday.

:D

[biscuit]

After moving to Spain and getting lots of mileage in it's now time to push the boat out and i have got myself a full on 16 week periodised schedule ( using what i understand of the Randall/Binney method ) to help me get 7b+ redpoint so i figured it's time i joined here too.

This is a report of week 2 of 16.

last weeks goals:

2x aerocap - done
1x ancap - failed - rainy and freezing weather/daylight hours and only being able to climb outdoors was to blame
2x hangs - done

VSTG - 1 week time limit

Average body fat under 13.3% This week average 13.8%

2 x aerocap
1 x ancap
1 routes day - 7a+ needed and try 7a on-sight
Dropped planned fingerboarding (x2) due to left middle tweak. Very minor but paranoid due to previous injuries. made some good gains recently and don't want to lose them.

STG - 6 weeks

on-sight 7a
complete 7b pyramid

7b - 0 of 1
7a+ - 1 of 2
7a - 7 of 4
6c+ - 5 of 8

MTG - 15 weeks time limit

11% body fat
7b+ pyramid

LTG

7c in 2012

It's hard to stick to periodised schedules. Going back to UK for a few days this week so i have got super organised and sorted a timetable out with Mrs Bisuit to make sure i get it all done.

20/10's are the aero cap exercise of choice at the minute. Feels really right for training pump recovery and feels like you're working something rather than endless traversing.

My level at the moment is 7a's are being done second go after an on-sight attempt. 6c on-sight is steady away and the 7a+ i did went 2nd go after a proper bolt to bolt. The 7a's have been all different types so i am happy i am consolidated at this grade for RP.  I have been on 1 7b a few weeks ago and it felt hard but very do able with a bit of time.

[shark]

After moving to Spain

  Nice. Where you move to? Is it close to the crags? Can we all come and stay ?

[biscuit]

After moving to Spain

  Nice. Where you move to? Is it close to the crags? Can we all come and stay ?

Oh nowhere special.

Just over an hour to El Chorro.
Half an hour to Loja.
Half an hour to Archidona.
Oh and half an hour to Chilam Balam cave and less to a gazillion other un-polished awesome, none documented, crags and all 40 mins from Malaga airport.
My local crag is this one:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9243

I've timed it in the car and it takes 6 minutes.

You don't seem to have a smug bastard smiley - get one but i'll make do with this for now 

Seriously though, what i have always been missing is time on rock. My wife and i used to work loads and with family etc. my climbing wasn't happening. Imagine how happy i was when she agreed to move to Spain. I now get out a couple of times a week on a rope and the time on real rock that i've always been missing is constant and things are finally happening. I am setting goals that actually seem realistic, not worrying about blowing a 7a on-sight because there's loads more quality lines to go at, and a decent bottle of Rioja can be had for 3 euro, a quadruple gin is the same price and a beer is 1 euro.

We're having the cellar converted into another bedroom. Once thats done we've got room for people to come and have their own space. My wife seems to think it's going to be an office, i think it's an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

[shark]

Just over an hour to El Chorro.
Half an hour to Loja.
Half an hour to Archidona.
Oh and half an hour to Chilam Balam cave and less to a gazillion other un-polished awesome, none documented, crags and all 40 mins from Malaga airport.
My local crag is this one:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9243

I've timed it in the car and it takes 6 minutes.

Screw  the periodised training programme - you just need to get your arse to the crag 5 days a week

[AJM]

We're having the cellar converted into another bedroom. Once thats done we've got room for people to come and have their own space. My wife seems to think it's going to be an office, i think it's an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

You realise that that invite is now immortalised on the Internet don't you 

[iain]

an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

You realise that that invite is now immortalised on the Internet don't you 

Hello Biscuit, I own a clipstick   

[Fiend]

UKB training week @ Biscuit's new crib 

[TobyD]

Seepage level was pretty much identical to Friday.

There appears to be no 'green with jealousy' smiley to use. I want to go to the proper Cove.

M 30th job interview in Hull, followed by a few hours on the wave, remembering how good it is.
T 31st couple of hours at the Foundry bouldering, loong drive to the south west
W 1st pixies / gully wall session
T 2nd 40 minute run
F 3rd bouldering at quay
S 4th felt shocking; nowt.
S 5th Ansteys; few goes on La Creme, crux move static 5 or so times, but still unable to link through the sequence 

[abarro81]

I want to go to the proper Cove.

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

[Three Nine]

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

[shark]

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

Is there a common thread here? Ah yes I remember - you both suck at Malham

Fancy working your weaknesses on Friday afternoon ?

[TobyD]

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

Is there a common thread here? Ah yes I remember - you both suck at Malham

Yes, and the thread is common to me in the other direction; Malham PB: ticked an 8b and 8a in an afternoon; Ansteys PB 7b+.... I really, really suck there (it is still good, but i love to bitch about it)
Ain't no way it's better than Malham though.