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[Peak][Stanage][cock a doodle doo 7C] (Read 2089 times)

El Mocho

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[Peak][Stanage][cock a doodle doo 7C]
December 29, 2013, 06:07:21 pm
Found myself 1 inch too short to manage a new line I spotted a couple of weeks back so opened it up. Char stepped in.

Cock of the rock block, Stanage causeway. Face to left of cock of the rock from sit start, through roof and using sidepull close to R arete stretch to poor break, match  and slap to good break. Great rock.

I have also managed all the moves except the stretch on a RH version finishing up the cock of the rock arete, pos a half grade harder.

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: [Peak][Stanage][cock a doodle doo 7C]
December 29, 2013, 07:40:20 pm
Nice work! Does the RH sequence get the same slopey break as CoDD, or does it cross off the sidepull straight to the hold on the arete?

El Mocho

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#2 Re: [Peak][Stanage][cock a doodle doo 7C]
December 30, 2013, 10:29:51 am
Gets the same little crimp - but you get it with your L where you match into it with your R on CADD, then goes out to the arete - you don't use the big sloper. As much as they are pretty close they feel quite different when you are on them, I think the R hand version is well worth doing. Rooster? Cock made of Rock? Gritstone Phallus? lots of potential names for it...

Andy B

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#3 Re: [Peak][Stanage][cock a doodle doo 7C]
December 31, 2013, 11:30:38 pm
Well done Char. I reckon this is a good problem. I tried it a couple of times earlier in the year, but both occasions were too sunny for anyone to match the crimp and pull through.(that was my excuse anyway).

 

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