[Fiend]

What's the lowdown on Pfalz Matt?

It's bloody amazing. Better for partly bolted Churnet-style adventures than Siurana-style mundane ticking. The routes are quite bouldery or quite reassuringly traditional or sometimes both. The crags are all short drives from the town of Dahn and mostly short walk-ins. There is a hefty guidebook and the Bärenbrunnerhof may have topos.

[MischaHY]

What's the lowdown on Pfalz Matt?

We're driving right past next weekend and considering an afternoon / morning quick hit. Probably arrive Friday pm, camp, climb saturday Morning then head onwards towards Slovenia.

Looking for well bolted sport, easy to find, topo, near camping / not too far off route.

I'm close to Pfalz and have spent lots of time there so can happily give more detailed information and pictures from the guidebook if you like. Be aware that many routes will require some trad placements, especially UIAA 7+ or below. The climbing, rock and setting is incredible and worth a trip in itself.

[Fultonius]

It would be preferable to not take trad gear if we could - are there any fully bolted crags? I guess we could sling a few cams in if we have to.

[Paul B]

Yes there are and they're good. I'll have a look at my archives but Magnetfingers is a route (arete) that sticks in my mind also The Big Easy at another venue.

The local shop lent us a full double rack of cams in ~2008 and only took a mobile number as we were walking out of the door.

[MischaHY]

It would be preferable to not take trad gear if we could - are there any fully bolted crags? I guess we could sling a few cams in if we have to.

Oh yeah tons but just depends if you want easier stuff - under 6c is a little harder to find consistently. As long as you're operating 7a or above then it's grand. As Paul points out Magnetfinger is the ultra classic 7c+. Windjammer is a really nice 8a+ with other bolted routes on the crag. Here is the local database: https://tourendatenbank.xoxs.de/pfalztour/dbframeset.htm

[Fultonius]

We're going to be there tomorrow, it's going to be warm and sunny with not much wind so it would be ideal to go to a crag that's shady, got some low 6s that are either well protected or bolted (oh doesn't lead trad, but happy enough to pinkpoint on my gear if its well protected). Don't need a huge range, just 3 or 4 routes. Doubt I'll be trying anything hard in the sun! Any ideas?

[SA Chris]

MAAARGRET!

[Paul B]

We're going to be there tomorrow, it's going to be warm and sunny with not much wind so it would be ideal to go to a crag that's shady, got some low 6s that are either well protected or bolted (oh doesn't lead trad, but happy enough to pinkpoint on my gear if its well protected). Don't need a huge range, just 3 or 4 routes. Doubt I'll be trying anything hard in the sun! Any ideas?

What about Honigfelsen?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/honigfelsen-19425/#overview

This was the crag I mentioned with Magnet Fingers:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/burghaldefels-14613/#overview

I remember it being the best I went to (this was 2008 though). Actually, the more I look back at the guidebook I think this would be suitable. Although the harder things are steeper, there are some easier slabby things and I remember them being the kind with sharp plated crimps rather than really technical and smeary.

This was the other (featuring the Big Easy).
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/retschelfelsen-28497/

From memory you passed through the crag to the shady side although it was all quite steep.

It was also boiling when we were there.