Cornwall (Read 17905 times)

chillax · January 27, 2012, 11:48:13 am

Will be spending a few days in Penryn near the end of Feb, and was wondering if the UKB massive have any info on the region? Will probably have 3 or 4 full days to climb. The trad down that way looks amazing, but I reckon it would mostly be out of the question at that time of the year? Tentative plan is to spend my days bouldering on Dartmoor. Is there a printed guide to the area? All I've found is the http://www.javu.co.uk site. Any venue recommendations? Bone Hill and Combeshead sound good. Is there anything closer to Penryn that I've overlooked? Cheers in advance!

Paul

SA Chris · January 27, 2012, 12:05:50 pm

If only there saw a guidebook with information about the bouldering available across the whole of Britain....

Weather on Dartmoor can often be shit and it can be nice on the coast, plus it's quite a long drive to get there from where you are.

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Stives/index.shtml looks good, but never actually made it there.

Carn Brea near Redruth (I think it's Redruth or is it Cambourne?) has enough stuff to keep you busy for half a day if your skin can take it.

There's this as well

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/CornwallBouldering/Gwynver/index.shtml

chris j · January 27, 2012, 02:45:14 pm

If you get a couple of dry days beforehand the trad in Penwith is as likely to be in condition as the bouldering on Dartmoor. Probably warmer and less exposed as well (assuming appropriate choice of venue for wind direction and swell etc). Unless you're lucky enough to get one of those nice crisp clear windless days Dartmoor can be an unpleasant place that time of year!

ben · January 27, 2012, 03:10:02 pm

You can't come to Penryn and then go to Devon to boulder! There's plenty to go at down West..

The crags might be in condition, if you pick the right one that doesn't seep and get a sunny day out of the wind then you can definitely get routes done.

However there's plenty of bouldering >

Clodgy - is non tidal, little article here and look on Javu to download Barneys excellent guide
http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=789

Godrevy - great seaside bouldering, tide and conditions dependent (Dan Varian raved about it, although it must be said the conditions were absolutely primo during his visit..)

Plenty of granite bouldering too, Zennor/Carn Brea/etc. see Andy's site for details on all:
http://web.me.com/andrewwhall/blocspenwith/welcome.html

(by the way it's 1.5 hrs drive to Combeshead / 2hrs to Bonehill from Penryn)

something I wouldn't recommend is a trip to 'Granite Planet' in Penryn..

highrepute · January 27, 2012, 03:22:26 pm

I was down this way in december. we managed to climb at Clodgy nr st. ives (I thought this was really good, have a vid - see signature), carn brea and helman tor (dartmoor style granite, lots of fun if you enjoy this style of climbing). All of which were very good. Also had a look at Godrevy and Tintagel both of which would have been climbable but we were very unlucky with tide (too early in morning/late at night) and swell was big. If you get good conditions at godrevy then it would be amazing (easily best of the areas we saw).

grimers GB guide was very useful, as was javu.co.uk. There isn't currently a printed guide.

granticus · January 30, 2012, 10:50:21 pm

By all means drop in to Dartmoor on the way through but climbing in Dartmoor when you're staying near Falmouth is bonkers! All mentioned below are well worth a visit Clodgy has plenty of non-tidal stuff, Godrevy you'll need low-tide, Carn Brea is the better of the granite and fairly close to where you are. Tintagel will be a bit of a mission for you to get to.

Quote

Will probably have 3 or 4 full days to climb. The trad down that way looks amazing, but I reckon it would mostly be out of the question at that time of the year?

I'm not a trad climber but I don't think trad would be out of the question, what you need is a nice sheltered south facing coastline......... You're not far from the Lizard which will hold some trad delights for you.

chillax · January 31, 2012, 09:54:45 am

Cheers for the advice all, looks like my grasp of Brit geography is wack in the extreme (thought Dartmoor was part of Cornwall)! Had a wee look around for stuff about Clodgy and Godrevy and they look very ace. Think Granticus' suggestion might be the way to go. Dartmoor on the way if weather permits, then 4 days of Cornwall. Hope conditions are alright for Godrevy, looks awesome. Psyched!

Cheers all

turnipturned · January 31, 2012, 10:02:01 am

Get yourself to Pentire and Tintagnel. Awesome blocs there.

Pentire: Pyscho Cowboy, Rational Bandit. (Great trad climbing as well)
Tintagnel: Purple haze, Kids, Colarodo Dreaming (One of the best at the grade in UK)

From their you can hit up Hartlands to in Devon, another 3* location.

Hartland: Supercede (one of the best at the grade in UK), Carnage (THE BEST AT THE GRADE in UK), Ache ball

Generally your best winter plan too.

Have fun.

Duma · January 31, 2012, 10:04:22 am

Long way from Penryn though.

turnipturned · January 31, 2012, 10:45:34 am

But worth it.

Duma · January 31, 2012, 10:47:53 am

True, true. (and Pentire's not very far at all - missed that)

granticus · January 31, 2012, 01:43:30 pm

Quote from: chillax on January 31, 2012, 09:54:45 am

(thought Dartmoor was part of Cornwall)!

That's flippin fighting talk that is!

ben · February 04, 2012, 03:51:24 pm

drop me a PM if you're getting out over a weekend, happy to give you a tour of Godrevy/CarnB/Clodgy if I'm free

Red · February 04, 2012, 04:04:32 pm

Here's a couple of Godrevy bouldering guides

http://www.archive.org/download/godrevy_pdf_download_1/godrevy.pdf

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CDwQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.suesseals.eclipse.co.uk%2FGodrevy%2520bouldering%2520pdf.pdf&ei=K1YtT7vZHunJiQLDkJGuCg&usg=AFQjCNEGUtxq0eB6MxrYceBdewvT9-GpHA

I found Devon bouldering extremely sharp, almost lost all my tips after 20 minutes

Quote from: chillax on January 31, 2012, 09:54:45 am

(thought Dartmoor was part of Cornwall)!

Oldmanmatt · February 04, 2012, 04:47:18 pm

Quote from: Red on February 04, 2012, 04:04:32 pm

I found Devon bouldering extremely sharp, almost lost all my tips after 20 minutes

You mean you don't like crimping on hypodermic quartz crystals?

chillax · February 04, 2012, 11:42:04 pm

Right, my knowledge of Cornwall geography has increased massively since starting this thread! Now just have to learn how to make pasties.....

Really looking forward to getting over. Cheers for the guide links Red, and keep an eye on your inbox Ben

Also, and this might be a bit of a longshot, does anyone live in Penryn or Falmouth and have a room/couch/bit of garden to camp in that they would like to rent out to a climber in need for a bit? I'm heading over to see my gf, who's also a climber. She's doing an internship in Penryn and is having issues finding accommodation at the minute. Like I said, its a bit of a shot in the dark, but if there is someone out there who can help then it doesn't hurt to ask

Cheers

Andy W · February 05, 2012, 05:00:51 pm

Quote from: chillax on February 04, 2012, 11:42:04 pm

Right, my knowledge of Cornwall geography has increased massively since starting this thread! Now just have to learn how to make pasties..... Really looking forward to getting over. Cheers for the guide links Red, and keep an eye on your inbox Ben

Also, and this might be a bit of a longshot, does anyone live in Penryn or Falmouth and have a room/couch/bit of garden to camp in that they would like to rent out to a climber in need for a bit? I'm heading over to see my gf, who's also a climber. She's doing an internship in Penryn and is having issues finding accommodation at the minute. Like I said, its a bit of a shot in the dark, but if there is someone out there who can help then it doesn't hurt to ask Cheers

Hi

I live in Marazion, about half an hour away, so prob to far, but if you are stuck for a room drop us a line.

Drop us a line anyhow and I can give you some info/beta for the area, also got a couple of training boards if its raining.

cheers Andy

SA Chris · February 06, 2012, 03:15:13 am

Quote from: chillax on February 04, 2012, 11:42:04 pm

Now just have to learn how to make pasties...

Nah, just how to eat them. A tip is to avoid any where the word Ginsters is mentioned on the wrapping.

Red · February 06, 2012, 03:57:33 am

Funnily enough Ginsters are made in Camelford, North Cornwall. Though they tasted like crap for decades they have improved a lot in recent years. But the best ones (obviously fresh out the oven) are from Padstow, Porthtowan and Porthreath bakeries. And my mum in St Just, who crimps down like a goodun.

Get involved drec'ly me ansom

Oldmanmatt · February 06, 2012, 07:02:42 am

Ere I comes from Wadebridge, 'an they're proper 'ansome there my Luvver!
Padstow pasties tastes of fish...

Duma · February 06, 2012, 08:21:30 am

Quote from: Red on February 06, 2012, 03:57:33 am

Funnily enough Ginsters are made in Camelford, North Cornwall. Though they tasted like crap for decades they have improved a lot in recent years. But the best ones (obviously fresh out the oven) are from Padstow, Porthtowan and Porthreath bakeries. And my mum in St Just, who crimps down like a goodun.

Improved or not, they still taste like crap.
and "Padstow, Porthtowan and Porthreath"? Pah! this is the only place (notwithstanding your mum) for the finest pasties:

In Helston, which is much more convenient for Penryn, though not bouldering

andy popp · February 06, 2012, 08:37:29 am

However they taste I'm pretty sure Ginsters is in Callington, not Camelford?

SA Chris · February 06, 2012, 09:28:15 am

Definitely Callington, unless they have moved in the last 6 years.

edit: google confirms this.

They are still unpleasant. Although I had a minor Buffet Bar addiction once.

ben · February 06, 2012, 09:57:27 am

Quote from: SA Chris on February 06, 2012, 03:15:13 am

Nah, just how to eat them. A tip is to avoid any where the word Ginsters is mentioned on the wrapping.

never buy a pasty that comes in a wrapper..

SA Chris · February 06, 2012, 10:04:38 am

True enough! And if the paper bag it comes in doesn't go clear as soon as it's put in, it's definitely too healthy to be a pasty.

Oldmanmatt · February 06, 2012, 10:41:04 am

Best pasties (shop bought) usually come from a butchers shop, not a bakery.
If it comes in a plastic wrapper, it just looks like a pasty (ish).
If it has carrot or (arghhh!) peas in it, it's not a pasty.
Sweed is fine.
Cheese and onion, is a flavour for crisps, hiding it in a pasty shaped parcel does not make it a pasty.
Oggy, Oggy.... OGGY!
However, after a good pasty, is unlikely that you will be able to climb off the sofa, let alone up a rock face.

chillax · February 21, 2012, 12:29:16 pm

As a quick follow up to this, just got back from a great few days in Cornwall. Bouldered at Clodgy (agh, so close to Boomerang) and Carn Brea (sore but really good), and had a balmy day tradding at Cribba (first E2 of the year, psyched). All most excellent. Good pastys too

Cheers to Andy for the hospitality and bouldering knowledge, and Dan for the day out on trad. Well keen to get back some day and explore more of the peninsula. From looking at the guide, Carn Gowla looks immense.

No bouldering pics unfortunately, but heres a couple from Cribba:

Dan on Pass The Pigs by caver_paul, on Flickr

Dan on Back To The Grind by caver_paul, on Flickr

Me seconding Back To The Grind by caver_paul, on Flickr

Andy W · February 21, 2012, 06:20:19 pm

Quote from: chillax on February 21, 2012, 12:29:16 pm

As a quick follow up to this, just got back from a great few days in Cornwall. Bouldered at Clodgy (agh, so close to Boomerang) and Carn Brea (sore but really good), and had a balmy day tradding at Cribba (first E2 of the year, psyched). All most excellent. Good pastys too

Cheers to Andy for the hospitality and bouldering knowledge, and Dan for the day out on trad. Well keen to get back some day and explore more of the peninsula. From looking at the guide, Carn Gowla looks immense.

No bouldering pics unfortunately, but heres a couple from Cribba:

Dan on Pass The Pigs by caver_paul, on Flickr

Dan on Pass The Pigs by caver_paul, on Flickr

Dan on Back To The Grind by caver_paul, on Flickr

Me seconding Back To The Grind by caver_paul, on Flickr

hey nice pics, glad you enjoyed... did that traverse today, 26 sessions, 9 months!...It was all about relaxing my hand through the move from the crimp to the sloper, the discussion with you about this helped, cheers!

chillax · February 21, 2012, 07:13:49 pm

Excellent effort! Great bit of climbing that. Best of luck on your next trip to Portland too.

SA Chris · February 22, 2012, 09:18:15 am

Nice pics. Nothing like Cornish Granite in the sun.

old cheese · August 02, 2016, 08:00:10 am

Went to granite planet due to rain yesterday, what a weird wall! On my own so could only Boulder, managed to avoid going up the hole.

Staying on the south coast near rinsey and was hoping to get out for a boulder but have no pad. Anyone about over the next 4 days?

Andy W · August 02, 2016, 08:41:14 am

Quote from: old cheese on August 02, 2016, 08:00:10 am

Went to granite planet due to rain yesterday, what a weird wall! On my own so could only Boulder, managed to avoid going up the hole.

Staying on the south coast near rinsey and was hoping to get out for a boulder but have no pad. Anyone about over the next 4 days?

Deep sympathies, that wall is truly as bad as a wall can be, with no redeeming qualities at all!

You could try this group https://www.facebook.com/groups/350310441862/

old cheese · August 02, 2016, 06:06:26 pm

Cheers Andy, I have put a shout out on the facecrack page to see if anyone has any time in the next three days, weather permitting of course!

ben · August 03, 2016, 10:17:25 am

its drying up today... I'd join you but am off to France tomorrow so busy packing

You're welcome to borrow a pad or two though if you want to get out, I'm in St. Agnes on the north coast.

PM me if so