[ghisino]

I'll be soon making my 1st trip ever to the peak district.
I'd like to do some trad as a season starter (haven't touched my trad gear since june) and a training for late spring objectives...

Looking for some advice regarding:

-E grades.
where should i start 1st day 1st route and what should i expect to be happy and comfortable with, ground-up.
(regular sport o/s 7a, comfortable in no-fall situations up to sport 6b or font 6a)

-a route list, with priority to very safe stuff.
Double points if despite being safe, the protection requires a bit of reasoning, use of double ropes, extending, etc...

merci beaucoup!

[Fiend]

You're gonna die, horribly. They'll be scraping body parts off the jagged bouldery landings for days.


E-grades. Works exactly the same as elsewhere. Just watch out for the bold / soloey routes.

Route list. Just look at the guidebook and see what inspires you in whatever style you fancy. There's loads of routes on grit and you can't go wrong if you follow your inspiration and the star listings.

[kingholmesy]

Why not go bouldering first to get your eye in?  Then just have a flick through the guide and see what routes take your fancy.

Alternatively, head to Stanage and do some of the highballs suggested on the other thread.  IMO
the best climbs on grit are those ones where you're not quite sure whether you're bouldering or soloing.

[Tom de Gay]

Cratcliffe might be a good option - brilliant well protected routes with a substantial feel. Start on Suicide Wall (HVS - run it into one pitch), and if that feels OK then there are other relatively friendly classics to do: Fern Hill, Five Finger Exercise, Nettle Wine, Reticent Mass Murderer etc. Lovely setting, good bouldering, good pub (The Druid).

[fatdoc]

millstone... cracks. good gear.. not too rounded...

then classic cracks of stanage.... stay at HVS.

[Tom de Gay]

millstone... cracks. good gear.. not too rounded...

Millstone's great, but perhaps a bit of a shame to go quarried on your first trip to the grit.

[rich d]

Go to Stanage start on v diffs, then work your way through the grades. life doesn't get any better