Just in case anyone was thinking of going to go and do either of these routes in the near future, take a big brush, and there is now a large scar where half the crux used to be. Sorry, I didn't think I'd eaten THAT much over Christmas, clearly, i was wrong. There is still a crux RH gaston (or LH sidepull, if you do it the tallies way), but it is lower down and slopier, but bigger.
It's not repairable really; in case anyone wondered. You would need half a bucket of sika and a day to find all the pieces of the ex- hold.
Noone was hurt in the unmaking of this route. (though Jerome came bloody close)
