[Gritter]

could anyone link me to a vid of this please? or run through the sequence? Ta.

[Jim]

pull on, LF smear, RF heel-toe type thing under roof, pull up and get pinch with RH. Match feet. LF heel round arete, slap left hand up arete to bottom of good fluting, run feet up a bit(not too much) and frog on the arete and get top of fluting with RH, LF up & mantle. easy?

[Jim]

I initially thought, wow, there's a right hand line!!!!

[Johnny Brown]

Bit more detail on start...

pull on with RH undercutting lip, LH to arete, LF onto smear above lip, RF heel-toe type thing under roof, pull up and get pocket/s, ideally as pinch with RH.

Tricky bit is getting the RF heel-toe to work, its a weird one.

Alternatively, Ned's flash sequence from #bigsunday, having had the above explained in detail...

Abandon heel-toe for poor toe hook, get pocket as three finger drag, cut loose, swinging left and blindly slapping LH to handful of green nothing, smear, cross to fluting with RH, sketch to top....

[dave]

Chris says "hi" from ceuse.

[Gritter]

I'll try the initial suggestion which may end up in the latter anyway, ta very much.

[Johnny Brown]

Which Chris? Wentworth?

[Bonjoy]

A few things I found made it easier last week were, use the left of the two LF smears, use the left end of the big undercut (makes it easier to place heel-toe), heel toe fairly shallow with heel on vague arete and drag toe along undercut when you take out the heel-toe to slow the barn door.

[cofe]

A few things cofe showed me which I found made it easier last week were, use the left of the two LF smears, use the left end of the big undercut (makes it easier to place heel-toe), heel toe fairly shallow with heel on vague arete and drag toe along undercut when you take out the heel-toe to slow the barn door.

 

Alternatively, Ned's flash sequence from #bigsunday, having had the above explained in detail...

Abandon heel-toe for poor toe hook, get pocket as three finger drag, cut loose, swinging left and blindly slapping LH to handful of green nothing, smear, cross to fluting with RH big slap again with LH to very top of fluting, sketch to top....

outrageous.

I initially thought, wow, there's a right hand line!!!!

me too.

[Bonjoy]

A few things cofe showed me which I found made it easier last week were, use the left of the two LF smears, use the left end of the big undercut (makes it easier to place heel-toe), heel toe fairly shallow with heel on vague arete and drag toe along undercut when you take out the heel-toe to slow the barn door.

Show me, show me, what to do, show me show me…

If it weren’t bad enough you got the bloody Mister Maker song stuck in my head the other day, now your infecting me remotely with the Show Me, Show Me tune
 

[cofe]

Timmy, it's timmy, he's a little lamb with a lot to learn. Timmy, it's timmy..........

[Jaspersharpe]

[205Chris]

I believe JB demonstrates the knowledge on this on the extras of Winter Sessions if you want video footage.

I tried the beta that's given above on numerous visits to the Stride and could never get the right foot heel / toe to work any way I tried it. This might be due to me being inflexible and bow legged but it always felt very bunched for me to get my right heel / toe in with my left up on the arete. The way I finally did the problem was as follows:

Pull on LH arete, RH undercut. Smear your left foot on the pedestal bit (don't bump it up onto the arete) and stretch your RF out into a toe hook quite a way out right (leg almost straight). Reach up with RH to the crimp, sort your feet out and finish as per the other method.