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Font classics in the 5-6b range (Read 11181 times)

Dave Flanagan

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Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 18, 2012, 08:33:08 pm
Going to Font in a month and am keen to do a ticklist of sorts.
Looking for classics in the 5+to 6c range.
I like slopey aretes (like Delicatessen), steepish indoor style (like Duro or Coquille) and wacky head scratching problems (like Buerre).

This is what I have so far

Là où Finit la Raie des Fesses, 7a, Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/1777.html
Delicatessen, 6c, Puiselet Le Paradis http://bleau.info/puiselet/9750-7174.html
Biotope, 7a, Puiselet Mont Sarrasin http://bleau.info/sarrazin/14322.html
Duroxmanie, 6c, Cuvier Est http://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html
Beatlejuice stand, 6a, Cusiniere
Le Surplomb de la Coquille, 6c, Franchard Hautes-Plaines http://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html
Beurre Marga, 6b+, Franchard Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/1538.html
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial, 6b+, Franchard Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/2355.html
91.1 Trio of highballs, 5+/6a
Travaux Forcés, 6b,  Gorge aux Châts http://bleau.info/chats/1546.html

JamieG

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#1 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 18, 2012, 08:42:26 pm
http://bleau.info/sabots/5754.html

L'Angle à Jean-Luc   6c

Beware: Sandbag!

lagerstarfish

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#2 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 18, 2012, 08:53:18 pm
Chapeau Chinois 6B at Sabots

La Voie Michaut 6C indoors style at Elephant

Videos of a very handsome chap doing them are available from specialist outlets


yorkshireman

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#3 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 18, 2012, 10:45:01 pm
big jim 6c-petit bois(ballsy)
carre d'as 6c-just round the courner from duroxmany(big ballsy!)
angle alain 5+
la lili 6c-cuvier(slight eliminate)
la marie rose 6a(just to get used to dodgy footholds)
la salade 6b(took me 2 visits,carnage only took me one visit!!)

look out for the new 5+6 guide due out the next month or two

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 18, 2012, 11:27:44 pm
I really enjoyed Le Bossu at Canon, 6bish. As well the prob to its left. The red circuit at Rocher Canon is littered with gret probs at that grade range.

rodma

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#5 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 09:11:03 am
I Lireally liked Pif Paf at Cuvier

http://bleau.info/cuvier/1149.html

I'm pretty sure if you use the pinch on the arete it is 6b, rather than 7a, the dyno is an eliminate, but Bleau.info does not mention this.

Jaspersharpe

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#6 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 09:20:57 am
The red circuit at Rocher Canon is littered with gret probs at that grade range.

 :agree: First visit to Rocher Canon last year. It's quality.

slackline

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#7 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 10:24:10 am
The red circuit ar Gorge aux Chats has some good problems in this grade range.

At the lower end of the grade the blue circuit at Franchard Isatis was great fun, easy to add in a smattering of the reds too.

lagerstarfish

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#8 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 11:23:25 am
The red circuit ar Gorge aux Chats has some good problems in this grade range.

 :agree:

hobblingfool

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#9 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 12:14:42 pm
Heading to font for the first time this spring, perfect timing for this thread for me. Thanks for all the suggestions, hopefully will manage to get some of these done.  :bounce:

Andrew B

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#10 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 12:27:38 pm
Things that I have done:-

Buthiers
Surplomb de Marbre 6b
Swing Medium 6b

Cuisiniere
Moondance 6a

95.2
Duel dans la Lune 6c
Le Kilo de Beurre 5+

Isatis
Le Toit Ouvrant 6a
Le Surplomb Statique 6a+
Composition des Forces 6c

Bas Cuvier
Le Trou du Simon 6a

Elephant
Le Toit du Loup 6b

Gorge aux Chats
Arachnee 6b
Gigi 6b

I think this is a good mix of the type of problems you are after, maybe not as many slopy aretes though. All definitely worthwhile!

lukeyboy

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#11 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 12:57:38 pm
Things that I have done:-

Buthiers
Surplomb de Marbre 6b
Swing Medium 6b

Cuisiniere
Moondance 6a

95.2
Duel dans la Lune 6c
Le Kilo de Beurre 5+

Isatis
Le Toit Ouvrant 6a
Le Surplomb Statique 6a+
Composition des Forces 6c

Bas Cuvier
Le Trou du Simon 6a

Elephant
Le Toit du Loup 6b

Gorge aux Chats
Arachnee 6b
Gigi 6b

I think this is a good mix of the type of problems you are after, maybe not as many slopy aretes though. All definitely worthwhile!

Moondance is excellent, one of the best I've done at the grade in font. Worth searching out.

Dave Flanagan

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#12 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 08:43:05 pm
Thanks everyone. I have looked up all of them on bleau.info and added most to the list. I suspect I would need a few months to get them all done.

dontfollowme

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#13 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 10:20:01 pm
There is a good rising traverse through a roof at Drei Zinnen which I can't think of the name of. Well worth doing. I'll try and remember the name.

granticus

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#14 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 11:24:53 pm
Don't complete that list yet... Here's a few more that are worth seeking out, that haven't been mentioned. 

Elephant - La Dalle a Polly - 5+ Essential. Steep, juggy, highball, mega-pocket haul.

Bas Cuvier - La Digitale (aka La Fissure du Crocodile) - 5+
                  La Brioche - 6a - Steep Arete

Apremont Ouest - La Campanille - 4+ - No. 2 red High - given 6a in an old guide..

Apremont - La Balafre - 6a - No. 24 Salmon.
                 Le John Gill - 5+ - roof.

Restant du Long Rocher - Elixir de Bouldering - 6a - Traverse

Gorge Aux Chats - Travaux forces - 6b

Les Gros Sablons - La liberte - 6b - on most Bleasard's top problems list.

La Roche Aux Sabots - Service Compris - 6a (An easier dyno than Jet Set 7a which it shares holds with.)



Duma

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#15 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 11:30:30 pm
Re. La Liberte - it's amazing, and also enormous. I backed off this and the other black to the left, and was going pretty well at  the time. It's a fair walk too.

granticus

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#16 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 19, 2012, 11:48:55 pm
Re. La Liberte - it's amazing, and also enormous. I backed off this and the other black to the left, and was going pretty well at  the time. It's a fair walk too.

Do not be discouraged....  It is amazing, worth the walk, the landing is very flat, it's not that high and it eases near the top.  A king line if ever there was!

Jaspersharpe

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#17 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 20, 2012, 09:46:06 am
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.

slackline

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#18 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 20, 2012, 10:01:02 am
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.

Or the whole red circuit there.  ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#19 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 20, 2012, 10:09:01 am
Can't understand why no one's mentioned it.

slackline

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#20 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 20, 2012, 10:26:50 am
I know its crazy isn't it.

TobyD

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#21 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 20, 2012, 06:54:31 pm
Another vote for La Liberte, it is amazing. I have a dim memory of a really good 6a at Cuisiniere, which may have been Moondance, if so it's great.

Laser 6c at Cuvier Rempart is pretty cool

granticus

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#22 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 12:16:33 pm
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.
Can't understand why no one's mentioned it.
I know its crazy isn't it.

errrrrrrrrrrr.. I mentioned it??!  :???:

lukeyboy

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#23 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 02:01:54 pm
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.
Can't understand why no one's mentioned it.
I know its crazy isn't it.

errrrrrrrrrrr.. I mentioned it??!  :???:

So did the OP in his first post. It is quite good though.

slackline

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#24 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 02:34:11 pm
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.
Can't understand why no one's mentioned it.
I know its crazy isn't it.

errrrrrrrrrrr.. I mentioned it??!  :???:

So did the OP in his first post. It is quite good though.

As are many of the others on that red circuit! :slap:

Jaspersharpe

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#25 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 02:57:19 pm
Jesus wept.

lagerstarfish

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#26 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 03:07:00 pm
Jesus wept.

that's the tricky one on the red circuit at Vie de Merde isn't it?

I think it's called Fouteuse de Merde in the hors piste guide

slackline

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#27 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 03:46:52 pm
Jesus wept.

that's the tricky one on the red circuit at Vie de Merde isn't it?

I think it's called Fouteuse de Merde in the hors piste guide

 :lol:

Jaspersharpe

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#28 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 03:50:01 pm
You're thinking of Fouille-merde.

lagerstarfish

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#29 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 03:54:43 pm
That's at Gorge Aux Chattes

(and I don't mean lady cats)

granticus

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#30 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
January 21, 2012, 06:32:05 pm
What about Travaux Forces at Gorge Aux Chats.
Can't understand why no one's mentioned it.
I know its crazy isn't it.

errrrrrrrrrrr.. I mentioned it??!  :???:

So did the OP in his first post. It is quite good though.

As are many of the others on that red circuit! :slap:


Silly Me, I feel so stupid now.  At least some of you have had the opportunity to take the piss and I hope you feel better for it.  :yawn:

Back on topic... The red circuit at le Bois Rond is very nice and has lots of excellent 5s and 6s.


Dave Flanagan

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#31 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
February 22, 2012, 07:17:17 pm
Thanks lads, heading tomorrow morning. Will post an update but I don't anticipate a lot of ticks.

Can't believe no one mentioned Travaux Forces, it's brilliant.

fried

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#32 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
February 22, 2012, 08:01:26 pm
The weather's been lovely and stable since Sunday, unfortunately looks like a bit of rain coming in. Doesn't look like much, but I'd imagine it'd be better to stay out in the open until the beginning of next week when hopefully it'll be all blue skies again.

Dave Flanagan

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#33 Re: Font classics in the 5-6b range
February 22, 2012, 08:03:37 pm
The weather's been lovely and stable since Sunday, unfortunately looks like a bit of rain coming in. Doesn't look like much, but I'd imagine it'd be better to stay out in the open until the beginning of next week when hopefully it'll be all blue skies again.

Yeah I saw that. Just have to hope it's ok. I'm going home on Monday.

 

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