Yeah that's the man thank you! Is he a member on here?
I checked the list but wasn't sure which profile it was. Thanks though!
Managed to get in touch now thanks! Don't quite understand the last post dave though...
Anything Else We Should Know Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can. If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move. Have a read of Paul Reps' book Zen Flesh,Zen Bones,or anything by Thich Nat Han. The Tao of Physics by Fritjof Capra is also worth a read,as is Letting Go(of the person you used to be),by Surya Das.Colin Mortlock's Beyond Adventure is worth a read. Some crags should have the occasional route name written on a notice on a post near the start of the route,to help find the blighters. TO THE CRITICS:Some people on this site seem to think their criticisms/nagging are going to change the way I climb.Think on.Issuing fatwas to name and shame me just shows how conformist and anal some people can be. British climbing as yet has no legal written rules,and long may it stay that way. GRADES:Yes,grade debates can be pretty boring,but my chief concern is to let people know my opinion,which is intended to keep them away from routes that may be too hard for them.You may swear blind something is VS and I will insist it's hvs.No point in saying that ''everyone'' disagrees with me. AGE:I know two older climbers who used to top rope and preplace a lot of hard routes in the E4/5 range,and they didn't care who knew it.I will not be naming them.They were two of the best climbers in their generation;both famous.Last year they failed to lead a hvs on Burbage,which I soloed;so ,yes,I am still competitive,despite being in my 6th decade. John Dewey said '' Neglect of context is the greatest single disaster which philosophic thinking can incur''. Being older and weaker means that I have to ''cheat'' to get up some routes. That is my business and none of yours,as long as I don't harm the rock. A few years ago I went to the SW to do Kafoozalem and two guys spent 6 hours working Kafoozalem,and wouldn't let me on the route.They didn't get halfway.That is their right.That's a lot worse than pre chalking a route.This is a rainy country and chalk soon washes off.Some people have a Pavlovian response of frothing at the mouth when they see a photo of my chalk.The photo may be permanent,but the chalk isn't. When I have the energy I will wipe it off.If there is no time,it will stay on. I like to try and get up a route in one day.Having to go back is a ball ache and is expensive in fuel ,effort and time,and does nothing to help global warming.If I want to pre chalk a route that is my business.I am coming up to 56.Few people my age do hard routes on sight.Many routes are plastered in chalk anyway;so what if I add a bit more?Ask yourself why you feel the need to have a go at me.What does that say about you? I removed a situ wire from Wellington crack and also cleaned some of the finishing holds.It's not black and white.Livesey top roped it to death and still used aid on his first ascent.You are welcome to have an opinion,but not to make snide remarks based on one or two events;as if I always climb the same way.I often solo routes most people can't lead, on sight.As I suffer increasingly from arthritis,shoulder and wrist injuries,I think it perfectly ok to preinspect and prechalk. Climbing for me is about escaping the societal restraints we suffer in an increasingly conservative and conformist Britain.Millions of cubic metres of rock are scoured from mountains and in Derbyshire every year in mining,but do you complain?No. As for the people who post messages using a nickname,I have little or no respect for them when the tone is critical.Why do you not have the self respect and self confidence to use your real name?A guy recently introduced himself to me at the crag by his UKC nickname,and didn't tell me his real name.Feeble. I have climbed with some of the best climbers of the last 40 years and been inspired by them.They might have taken the piss,but none of them were overly critical.They know you can't make an omelette without breaking eggs. If you rabid critics really want to make a point to me about how impressive your ethics are,why not come soloing with me on Stanage or Burbage south? Even if you managed to burn me off,I would still reply that my climbing style is my own business,and congratulate you on your ability. MATS:Another form of preinspection.Top roped routes that are then soloed matless are bolder because the ground fall is more dangerous matless.Matting routes means you haven't taken the final challenge of the poss matless deck out.Mats are safer than no mats,so the route is less of a challenge.My opinion.If you can't do it without the mat and someone else did,they are better than you.I occasionally use a mat.If it's on a pre mat route,I know I am lowering the grade.Why say otherwise?Just excuses. Observe what is happening in YOUR mind at this very moment.That is the path to wisdom.Try to be more helpful and less critical. If you want to know who I am,then arrange to meet.Rumour and hearsay are usually well wide of the mark. If you have an ill friend or family member,go and visit them. Now in my 6th decade and I find myself really struggling to do pull ups.Weak as a kitten compared to when I was putting up hard new routes easily. Will work on the pull ups but all that lives is born to die,and getting weaker is part of that.
He finally sent the photo the other day, and called the photo something along the lines of 'The Green Faggot'.This man gets strange kicks...
Could probably have got an inlking of his slanted take on life from his UKC profile Quote from: Paul Mitchellmy chief concern is to let people know my opinion,which is intended to keep them away from routes that may be too hard for them.That is some
my chief concern is to let people know my opinion,which is intended to keep them away from routes that may be too hard for them.
