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Ben Moon Tweets about 9a! (Read 21927 times)

shark

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#50 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 14, 2012, 09:37:10 pm
The ramifications of these old skool routes being upgraded are pretty significant. Liquid Ambar's going in the next guide as 8c+ making it the first of the grade in the world and now Hubble's effectively being called the world's first 9a.  Moony always said it was as hard as Action back in the day and that they were both hard 8c+ (he got close to Action quickly but was thrawted by injury i believe).  There's not many other sports where 20 year old history can change like that!   

At the time they (Gullich and Moon) were defining the line between one grade and the next. Its not like the width of the 8c+ band is pre-ordained by god. He was right to call hard 8c+ or would have been equally "right" to call soft 9a. They were defining a boundary. If others had continued to use AD and Hubble as the definitive benchmark then they would still be 8c+ along with a probably a number of routes subsequently established and given 9a. There has been a tension between nu skool and old school grading for some time which Dave Graham talked about here. Looks like nu skool grading is winning out. At least that will make things consistent.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2012, 09:43:50 pm by shark »

Andy Harris

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#51 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 15, 2012, 02:50:27 pm
To be fair back in the day climbing on pockets was very specialist. Especially in the Frankenjura where the locals were the best at this style vs now when visiting wads generally take down any thing anywhere. Pockets at climbing walls were totally non existent, campussing didn't really exist and hence it was very hard to train for them. So I  can see why Ben would have thought AD was harder at the time. Ironically the Frankenjura is now considered relatively standard in terms of grades and reguallry gets beaten my visitors and locals alike. Ironically Hubble is probably even more specialist, being a route where you don't really pull you just hang a series of horrendous positions. Can't think of anything else like it bouldering or routes in the many places I've visited.

AD only has 1 mono certain ascentionists just decided to use 1 finger in some pockets. But essentially these days it's way easier to train for on pockets on the board and campussing. Without building a vague model of Hubble it's really v.difficult to train for and they sure don't make wall holds like that. Probably why it has repulsed so many people climbing that grade or harder.

So as for skipping 8c+, maybe it was an Usain Bolt moment where teh current record is smashed rather than just being beaten. Given Graham/Ondra et al have downgarded so many of the overgraded routes in tha past decade and upgraded others (often the old school ones) who are we to argue with an upgrade. And if it & AD are only 8c+ then maybe everything in the world need to be downgraded (let's face it this isn't going to happen).

gme

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#52 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 15, 2012, 05:35:00 pm
When did LA get up graded and why. Everytime I look it seams that routes are upgraded.
The oak 8b. Cry freedom and bat route 8c. Evolution and progress 8c+. And now Hubble.
Should be all left alone.
Grades always differed from countryto country. County to county. Makes it interesting.

Doylo

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#53 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 15, 2012, 07:20:18 pm
When did LA get up graded and why. Everytime I look it seams that routes are upgraded.
The oak 8b. Cry freedom and bat route 8c. Evolution and progress 8c+. And now Hubble.
Should be all left alone.
Grades always differed from countryto country. County to county. Makes it interesting.

Yep everythings on the up Gav  :) Markus Bock thought it was nails, harder than the 100s of similar PE 8cs he's done. Malc only got it in two and thought it was pretty hard. Its stopped Nic Sellars back in the day when he was in Evolution/Progress form. Pete Robins spent 25 or so days on it, Infanticide which Carson rated close to 8c+ he did in about 7 days i think. It could be hard 8c though, it's never got that much attention (get on it beasts!).  Moony gave Sea of Tranquility 8c too, and that's even harder than Liquid it seems.  I'd rather everything in the world was comparable grade wise rather than having areas of old skool and areas of new skool.

gme

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#54 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 15, 2012, 09:12:24 pm
I don't think Nic Or Malc spent long on it. Then there is the fickle conditions you get down there. Ben was best placed to grade things as he had done more than anyone else at the time (?). Bit like ondra is now. If it had been at the tor I am sure Nic, barker, welford etc would have repeated it.
If these things get up graded it changes history a lot. If cry freedom is up graded leachy becomes top dog from then until jerry does LA.
I know it doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things but to a tiny minority who don't think that world climbing peaked with Indian face it does.

Doylo

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#55 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 15, 2012, 09:30:18 pm
Malc tried it again in 2010. Is a strange situation thats for sure

Jaspersharpe

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#56 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 16, 2012, 09:32:29 am
Thing is we based everything on the grades at the Tor and Buoux. Now that the grades at both crags are seen as nails and everywhere else in the world has softer grades it's swimming against the tide to say that they should still be the standard. Even if it's technically right.

abarro81

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#57 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 16, 2012, 01:36:03 pm
Even the Tor and Buoux have the odd soft touch...

 

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