[willackers]

There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing

sssshhhhhhh

the arete to the right of smiling wall often (by lgp standards) sees attention, but it remains unclimbed.

I've had a couple of sessions on this lately (one in the rain) and I've made some good progress. There's only one move I haven't done but it's hard and quite high up. I think it will definitely go with a bit more effort. It's a bit reachy as well

[Fiend]

Nice one beast.

[SA Chris]

An 8a boulderer 5 foot ten or more should be able to do it on a top rope. Then just get a huge stack of mats.

WILLACKERS!!!

[davej]

no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat  the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!

[Will Hunt]

As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.

Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View

Wall right of Eternal at Gorple. This is well scrubbed so obviously someone has tried (and possibly done, we shall see in the new guide). Doesn't look all that hard but is protectionless with a crap landing.

Direct finish to Cindy Crawford at Ilkley. Will go without too much extra effort apparently.

[tomtom]

no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat  the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!

I think there were a couple of fellas trying it in the snow last winter.. but I may have the wrong route in my head...

[grimer]

There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.

[dave]

Since meshuga was done has anyone given any serious attention to the left hand line on that prow, the one everyone used to try before meshuga was sussed out?

[Bonjoy]

There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.

I know James Pearson has tried this on a rope. Said it had a great move off a pair of mono. Don't think he managed the crux, so I'd be surprised if Matt Szabo had done the move.

[Bonjoy]

What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.

The direct start to Baron Greenback is another.

Those two vague cracks on the left side of Black Wall at Hen Cloud. To be fair these are probably still unclimbed to a large extent because they are so rarely dry.

The Dyno project on the Velvet Silence block at Black Rocks. Rumour has it the bit after the dyno is the crux!

[SA Chris]

Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?



Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.

edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to

[dave]

Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?



Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.

edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to

Thats the dyno project joveloy mentions above.

[willackers]

Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?



Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.

edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to

I've done it from the slot to the top, very slopey and would probably be quite scary without a rope. Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video. I have only had one short session on it, and I was a nursing a hangover.

I personally think it is worthy of the LGP status, it's very good, as is the arete to its right.

[SA Chris]

Thats the dyno project joveloy mentions above.

Cheers word, I think I edited while you were posting.

[GCW]

no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat  the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!

I think there were a couple of fellas trying it in the snow last winter.. but I may have the wrong route in my head...

Yes, Moment of Clarity.

[mini]

What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.

I know many moons ago Ollie Ryal from Buxton had dropped a rope down this. Not completely sure if it was top-roped in a oner, but I believe it's there for the taking....

[T_B]

What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.

I know many moons ago Ollie Ryal from Buxton had dropped a rope down this. Not completely sure if it was top-roped in a oner, but I believe it's there for the taking....

I've not looked at this on a rope, but I've studied it pretty carefully from the ground and it looks absolutely nails. Super steep with the 'holds' pointing in the wrong direction. I would have thought it was in the Font 8c territory. Agree with Jonboy it's a King Line.

[T_B]

The LGP I'd be interested to hear someone trying is the wall left of Early Riser at Earl. I've said it before, but having abbed it and tried some of the moves, it's definitely climbable. But it has a big move off two pebbles right at the top so you'd want about 20+ pads below it!

You can see the biggest hold on it in this photo (left of the left-hand green streak)  http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101

[willackers]

I abbed down both sides of that wall the other day.

There are a few holds but they are very spaced, I think it would be possible for someone, but the route I think you would have to take is very wandering, and I think if you fell from the top of that wall no amount of pads would save you. I only abbed it in trainers, I might have missed a few holds.

It's such an impressive bit of rock, it would be incredible to se someone climb it.

[Johnny Brown]

I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.

Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video.

Amazingly Nalle almost did the dyno within about ten minutes effort. I had a couple of goes and could get in the start position, but couldn't move once in it. About the only time I've been impressed with the strength of someone's toes, mine were screaming.

I've a watched a bunch of wads try the arete to the right, none made any impression on it. Impossible...

[SA Chris]

Is that the chalk marks in the video?

[Fiend]

Both cool lines there.

[willackers]

I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.

Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video.

Amazingly Nalle almost did the dyno within about ten minutes effort. I had a couple of goes and could get in the start position, but couldn't move once in it. About the only time I've been impressed with the strength of someone's toes, mine were screaming.

I've a watched a bunch of wads try the arete to the right, none made any impression on it. Impossible...

I was jumping for the slot and getting within inches of it, but I didn't feel close, I briefly messed around using a poor undercut for the left hand which allowed me to get my feet a little higher, I think that's the way to go for me if I try it in the future.

I can't believe the arete to the right hasn't been done, it looks so good and there are holds all the way up.

[Johnny Brown]

it looks so good and there are holds all the way up

No there aren't, there's a big gap at the bottom...

[r-man]

I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.

But he was hanging the positions? One for the next generation?