[r-man]

Seemed a good topic to boost rainy season psyche. Routes you would love to see done...

http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/LGPs

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do on the eastern edges, or indeed Yorkshire/Lancashire. Has anyone seriously tried Wizard Ridge since Dawes? Has anyone made any progress on the impossible groove at B.South? There must be others.

[Gritlad]

There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing

[leeroy]

There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing

sssshhhhhhh

the arete to the right of smiling wall often (by lgp standards) sees attention, but it remains unclimbed.

[cheque]

Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently.
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone.
Wall right of Ulysses?
Direct start to Fairy Steps?!

 

[Nigel]

Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently. Bollocks
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. Its an arete, but by all accounts doable
Wall right of Ulysses? Again, bollocks
Direct start to Fairy Steps?! You mean the 6c? I appreciate this isn't serious!

Just want to add a bit of realism to the proceedings. The Dawes things above are not projects, they are concepts. Lawrencefield project is the obvious one.

[csl]

'Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. "Its an arete, but by all accounts doable" '

Surely not talking about the same thing? He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.

[BB]

He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.

There was a bit of chalk on this last winter.

[Hydraulic Man]

Wall left of Cave Wall.......

[cheque]

I appreciate this isn't serious!

Yep, should have used at least one winking smiley for those! Mainly things I've seen mentioned as LGPs before- interested in what someone qualified more to judge the feasibility of these things would have to say. Cheers!

'Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. "Its an arete, but by all accounts doable" '

Surely not talking about the same thing? He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.

Not the Lawrencefield wall. At the very far left of Millstone (literally the last rock of any size, before anything mentioned in guidebooks) is a very steep, very blank slab with a sharp arete on its left. Never heard anyone else's opinion of it 'til this thread. It would be awesome to see someone climb it!

[GCW]

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.

Montcliffe Arete?

[Bonjoy]

LGP usually refers to obvious challenges which are well known. These don't always turn out to be the actual best routes and some may well be impossible. There are loads of good unclimbed hard lines on grit, loads, but not loads that fit the narrow confines of the LGP title.

[Johnny Brown]

Johnny used to have a framed photo of that Millstone arete in his kitchen. I think Tom DeGay got pretty close ten years back, I'm pretty confident it would succumb to the modern highball team approach.

[r-man]

The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think. There is the possibility of placing a very poor rurp about halfway up. Comes up quite regularly as a "Has anyone ever tried the..." type thread. Surprised it hasn't been done TBH.

The face has some holds on it, but not very many...

[r-man]

[smiling arete has a] supposedly 8b move

and smiling arete i think ben never actually cleanly top roped it either

wizard ridge has never been cleanly top roped, dawes only linked "most" of the moves and has since stated that he thinks it will never go, but lots of climbs have had that said about them.also loads of gear in the crack so prob only E7 if it goes

http://indoorsout.co.uk/phorum-5.2.10/read.php?1,9971,10005

[csl]

Sorry just me being an idiot then! Somehow read Millstone as Lawrencefield!

[Bonjoy]

...also loads of gear in the crack so prob only E7 if it goes

That's not how E grades work. Even with perfect gear the E grade can in theory go to whatever number, so long as the climbing is sufficiently difficult.

[Johnny Brown]

What he said. I think the sustained 7a climbing Wizard Ridge appears to comprise would warrant move than E7 even with a high side runner.

The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think.

By 2005 standards. It doesn't look so big compared to Superstition for example.

[JamieG]

  I know it is not a route, but has anyone done the dyno on the tank boulder at wimberry?

[Johnny Brown]

No. Although Skyler Weeks made a special trip to try it.

[willackers]

I know it is not a route, but has anyone done the dyno on the tank boulder at wimberry?

[willackers]

No. Although Skyler Weeks made a special trip to try it.

It must b V17 at least then

[Fiend]

Arete left of Giggling Crack @ Brimham?

Arete right of Goliath @ Burbage South?

Ripple right of and paralleling The Groove @ Cratcliffe?

[clm]

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.

Montcliffe Arete?

It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.

[r-man]

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.

Montcliffe Arete?

It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.

Are you talking about the sharp arete or the rounded one? Be very surprised if the rounded arete was that easy.

[nik at work]

What he said. I think the sustained 7a climbing Wizard Ridge appears to comprise would warrant move than E7 even with a high side runner.

The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think.

By 2005 standards. It doesn't look so big compared to Superstition for example.

7 years later and I'd revise my estimate downwards slightly to E7/8 7a (that's without having been on it in the intervening years), but with a healthy stack of pads under it it's probably very ground-upable. The landing isn't great in a mat-less stylee from what I remember. Still amazed this hasn't been done, especially as it gets mentioned every time one of these type of threads come up.

The Wizard Ridge "only E7" but "impossible" conundrum is splendid...