[GCW]

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.

Montcliffe Arete?

It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.

I'm on about the rounded one with no gear, I believe Nike Air looked at it briefly on top rope.  Very few holds on the bottom section, looks hard:

[carlisle slapper]

Seeing as though i don't live in the peak anymore i thought i'd post my old project list here. Of course anyone in the know in the peak knows to contact Jonboy or Welford  if they need a decent project. As Nige and a few others have said alot of LGPs are bollocks, e.g the groove at cratcliffe ended up getting climbed as an arete the scoop at black rocks leads nowhere. If the Uk gets a grit Ondra then they might become possible, but for now the below all look v possible. Smiling arete looks shite, its a ledge to a pop for good holds. Smiling buttress looks great but the landing is so crap that it'd not be a boulder problem nor a pleasant route, other projects are better at the minute.

Blackrocks:
lots

RHS:
sitter to musclin’ man
low prow near bens wall
crimpy as fuck pods/ roof right of big alqueda 20m

Cratcliffe. Just right of Sparrow start and up the ramp rightwards.

Clifftop: whackaboosha in the quarry (8B?) (got close)

Froggat,
ape drape,
renegade direct (8A+?) (got close)

Stanton:
quarry crack
up centre of wall and into stanton warriors

Roaches:
mushin direct

nth:
left of swivel finger (the other LGP at nth, me n caff did most of the moves except the last but werent giving it full beans)
in the woods, rising lip traverse (not too hard)
high arete on left with bad landing

5th:
ready brek direct,
high prow on crag above tetris,

bb north:
roof up from voyager (been tried by malc and welford in the past).
direct start to superstition

plantation:
Jons lip
ace sitter (7c+/8a into the stand)

Bosley cloud??

Churnet.
thumbelina area groove?
lines at lion rock

eagle tor:
sitter into feelgood or autumn from near heart arete

Turning stone,
roof by seeker arete?

Hen cloud:
The amazing arete with sloping landing

Slipstones:
blunt prow near ripper
Arch

[Bonjoy]

The above mentioned Wackaboosha arete project in Harthill Quarry. Worth a mention that this is just about the most rain proof line you’ll find on grit as it is covered by a large capping roof. There are also a couple of other potential desperate highballs further right in the quarry.

[clm]

Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.

Montcliffe Arete?

It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.

I'm on about the rounded one with no gear, I believe Nike Air looked at it briefly on top rope.  Very few holds on the bottom section, looks hard:

Oh, that one. Brain must have discounted it as clearly impossible. E a million I reckon.

[r-man]

Top list Dan!

It's all too easy to hoard projects for years, so nice one. Will be interesting to see what gets done...

[Bonjoy]

Must admit I have a 23 page 'Unclimbed Lines' doc on my work PC which probably counts as project hoarding. Here are a few probs/highballs I’ve seen but written off as far too hard for me, along with wildly vague guestigrades:

Double arete left of Jumpin on a Beetle 8a+-8b+?– Black Rocks

Left arete of Finale Wall 7c+-8a+? – Black Rocks

Big prow forming right side of chimney right of Suicide Wall 7c+-8a? – Cratcliffe

Cave under Dry Wit 8b-8c– Robin Hood’s Stride (have always written this off as impossible but looks to have received recent broken flake and chipping (!) and now looks just about feasible)

Vague arete/rib left of Shirley’s on same face 8a-8a+? – Stanage

Direct start to Massacre 8a-8a+? – Stanage

Big scary hanging lip on Brad Pit block 7c-7c+? – Stanage

Ape Drape roof 8b-8c? – Froggatt – Tried a bit by Nacho who did all but the crux move. Needs someone with same level of strength but a bigger span!

Wall just right of Chequers Groove 8a-8a+? – Froggatt

Rib right of Scoop De Grace 8a-8b?– Running Hill Pits

[dave]

Velvet crab roof direct

[nai]

how about the prow right of Tierdrop?

[SA Chris]

Direct to Chameleon at Hen Cloud. Sloper madness, but I reckon the supertalented could do it. highball to break and gear, then E4 above. Or traverse off.

[T_B]

The one I think really deserves doing is the arete/crack right of Ramshaw Crack. Sean Myles supposedly tried this and looking at it carefully it looks like not that many compression moves to stab the crack and jam to glory (painful mind). But it will involve putting a rope on and possibly velcro-ing a cam to one's chest 

[SA Chris]

it looks like not that many compression moves to stab the crack and jam to glory (painful mind). But it will involve putting a rope on and possibly velcro-ing a cam to one's chest 

Sounds like it has Pete Whitaker written all over it!

[r-man]

I tend to not to remember highball/routes, but here are some normal boulder problem projects...

The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.

To the right of Gibbering Wreck at Gib Tor, a short blank wall with a vague arete and undercut that it might just be possible to burl up. Never tried, so it might be completely impossible rather than just mostly impossible. Or it might be easy. 7B+/8A+.

The crackline in the cleft behind the 7A triangle problem at Burbage South. From sitting as low as possible, desperate layback moves to a hard top out. 8B.

The full trav of the Bad Landing Boulder, extending Drop Your Weapons into BB's Trav. I'm assuming when Bransby says 7C it won't be soft, and neither is Drop Your Weapons - then add pump. Shame it gets a bit bumscraping on the finish, but a Polish giant managed not to dab. 8A+?

Andronicus cave - from the left wall, climb into the roof and finish either centrally or along a 7C lip. 8B.

Roof left of Master Kush - tough compression moves from the back left, if you start as low as possible. 8B+. Alternatively, there are some Gaskins holds up the middle. 8C.

[slackline]

The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.

Isn't that on lime rather than grit?

[r-man]

Woops, so it is. Feels like grit in places though, some amazing textured slopers. Andronicus cave is limestone too, but again the style is very different to most peak lime.

[carlisle slapper]

Aah this is a juicy read now, much better than "the scoop at blackrocks" (although i'm just going of hearsay for this or "the arete under masters of the universe or other distant fantasies.

The Right arete of meshuga climbed on its right has a tiny crimp and looks possible to get upto the e4 jump (guide is too far away to remember name of it) looked 8A+ish

I tend to not to remember highball/routes, but here are some normal boulder problem projects...

The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.

This is a great line but i had my most depressing climbing moment ever when a kid saw me in this cave and asked what i was doing, i was so embarrassed i left, if it wasn't so dank and dark it might be ok Jonboy knows about a much better crag (still a bit depressing) nearby which we did some cleaning at in the summer.

Andronicus cave - from the left wall, climb into the roof and finish either centrally or along a 7C lip. 8B.

Again looked but didn't touch

Roof left of Master Kush - tough compression moves from the back left, if you start as low as possible. 8B+. Alternatively, there are some Gaskins holds up the middle. 8C.

LOW. Not inspiring in my opinion, wall right of Niks wall looked better to me if had to go back to Rivelin.

Must admit I have a 23 page 'Unclimbed Lines' doc on my work PC which probably counts as project hoarding. Here are a few probs/highballs I’ve seen but written off as far too hard for me, along with wildly vague guestigrades:

Double arete left of Jumpin on a Beetle 8a+-8b+?– Black Rocks- CLASS

Left arete of Finale Wall 7c+-8a+? – Black Rocks- UTTER CLASS, thought this would/should get done this winter, v doable cough dolph/el mocho/ Ryan (ned knows already) are you reading this? worth a look.

Big prow forming right side of chimney right of Suicide Wall 7c+-8a? – Cratcliffe- Need about 10pads minimum but great looking.

Cave under Dry Wit 8b-8c– Robin Hood’s Stride (have always written this off as impossible but looks to have received recent broken flake and chipping (!) and now looks just about feasible)

Vague arete/rib left of Shirley’s on same face 8a-8a+? – Stanage

Direct start to Massacre 8a-8a+? – Stanage

Big scary hanging lip on Brad Pit block 7c-7c+? – Stanage

Ape Drape roof 8b-8c? – Froggatt – Tried a bit by Nacho who did all but the crux move. Needs someone with same level of strength but a bigger span! I have done the lanky move on this! its a bit eliminate as you could feasibly

Wall just right of Chequers Groove 8a-8a+? – Froggatt,

Rib right of Scoop De Grace 8a-8b?– Running Hill Pits - This sounds ace too

Neon Dust SS? Froggatt

2 more: neither looked much more than 8A


eatswood project by Beastmaker. inc, on Flickr


birchen project by Beastmaker. inc, on Flickr

[carlisle slapper]

The Birchens project is the vague leftwards trending rib out of katzy's problem incase anyone can't see it.

[Fiend]

Good posts slapper and bonjoy.

[mark s]

how about the prow right of Tierdrop?

i tried something to the right of tier drop that involved both hands moving up 2 aretes then a jump for the top,i tried and missed the jump.ended up on my back under tier drop.knocked the wind right out of my sails

[mark s]

the right arete behind the house at the roaches will be the roaches hardest route by miles when it gets done.

i cant see the ramshaw crack project getting done.holding the positions is possible,moving is a differant story
i remember ryan trying it and couldnt get off the ledge.
there is the hanging arete at ramshaw above night of lust,andi has done it on a rope numerous times

[nai]

i tried something to the right of tier drop that involved both hands moving up 2 aretes then a jump for the top,i tried and missed the jump.ended up on my back under tier drop.knocked the wind right out of my sails

This is the thing I was thinking of, likely to be always too hard for me:

[mark s]

no.it was more to the right than that,certainly not a lgp.the 1 i fell off was v6 or 7 maybe.just a ooh i'll try that sort of moment whilst messing around in the area

[yorkshireman]

anyone mentioned the steep slab left of secret seventh?

[Bonjoy]

Just remembered this beauty! Discussed in an old thread circa 2007 and still unclimbed and probably untried I’d guess. At the time it was considered a bit borderline heightwise for the bouldering approach, but these days…


It’s below the crag at Ravenstones. Tried in the past by Miles G who guessed at a grade of 7c+/8a.

[Bonjoy]

Just found this pic which looks to be of the other side of the prow.

[Fiend]

Not quite grit but close enough, the wall right of Where Angels Fear to Tread at Howlerhirst, visible from the tiny pointed flake upwards in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=168404

I abbed down this out of curiosity and thought "Think cranking up an impending wall on shallow pockets, hanging off fingertip monos placing tricams, and a wild dyno for a super-sloping top...mmmm". Go on carlisle slapper what are you waiting for