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Shoe Advice (Read 1553 times)

Cretin

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Shoe Advice
January 04, 2012, 10:07:44 am
After a good 7-8months of bouldering (90% indoors) I feel I'm ready for a new pair of shoes. I'm upgrading from a pair of Scarpa Vantage - at the moment they feel too rounded at the ends for getting small holds with, and could do with being tighter.

Any recommendations for a new pair then? Again most of my climbing will be indoors and bouldering, price isn't too much of an issue. The Anasazi VCR's seem to be getting good feedback?

Cheers!

SOH

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#1 Re: Shoe Advice
January 04, 2012, 11:14:38 am
Go into a well stocked shop and try on as many pairs as you can. Anasazi velcro's, sportiva katanas, scarpa vapour's are all good upgrades over your "beginner" shoes ( i use the term beginner very loosely here as i still see beasts crush in vantages). There are also lace up versions of those one's mentioned which you could try too. Ask the guy in the store (assuming he knows what he's talking about) about slim fit versus wide fit shoes; for example the five ten velcro and the moccasym, i've found they tend to fit people with wider feet better than say the white lace-ups which are much lower volume.
At the end of the day you should be favouring fit over aggression. Don't buy shoes so tight that your getting a burning sensation in your toe joints, this is bad. But your toes should feel bunched up in the toe box, snug would be a good term to use.

 

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