[JohnM]

Top 3 boulder problems UK

The Terrace - Burbage
Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy - Kyloe-in-the-woods
Yellow Desert Scream - St Bees

Top 3 boulder problems abroad

Didn't boulder abroad this year

Top trad routes UK

Hole of Creation - Little Orme
Totalitarian - Raven Crag, Thirlmere
Trad was put on the back burner last year.  That needs to change this year.

Top 3 sport routes UK

Boat People - The Diamond
Rock Lobster - Pen Trwyn
Overnite Sensation - Malham

Top 3 route abroad

El Latido del Miedo - Terradets
Toni Kaneloni - Margalef
Hidrophobia - Montsant

Top new boulders/routes

Didn't do any new stuff this year.

Top 3 spankings

Powerplant - Cheedale Cornice.  This shouldn't be hard but I fail everytime.  Need to give in and try to knee bar it into submission instead of ignoring all the faggotry.

Bal de Triceps - Margalef.  Too morpho!

Blitzkrieg - Raven Crag.  Started well but ended fighting through and overhang of filth, aiding and doing a horizontal death traverse to ab off a lone tree.

[Doylo]

John M,Rock Lobster - Pen Trwyn

How? Why? I demand a 5000 word document detailing how this revolting route made it into your list John!

[Doylo]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Careless Torque, a few days into 2011.
China In Your Hands - the only other problem I did this year, again early Jan. Broke ankle same day falling off Superbloc, basically stopped any sort of proper climbing all year. Still fucked now.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None. Seconded a lot of the Chee Tor harder routes though, such as Autobahn, Snapdragon, Apocalypse, and Ceramic Extension.

Top three sport routes UK
Cosmopolitan 7b+
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag 7b+
Minos 7c+
These were the only new routes that I led, I was too injured/scared for most of the year. I did a fair bit of toproping though, I was pretty pleased to toprope Powerplant the non-kneebar way, and flash Stone The Loach.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None.

Top three new route/prob put up
None.

Top Spankings
Superbloc, although to be fair I reckon I'd have got it if I hadn't broken my ankle. Definitely my worst year ever, really dreadful.

You're going to tear british climbing a new A hole this year conker

[Jim]

Can't really contribute to this really as haven't climbed much but I am going to carry one over from the back end of 2010 because it was so good:
Top three boulder probs, UK

Northern Soul, Hepburn –  The best problem in the UK?

It's certainly up there and a big highlight of a great trip to the county with a good team in tow.   

Top Spankings
Brad Pit. Properly spanked me good and put an end to all my climbing aspirations of 2011. However I don't care what anyone says, I would of definately done it that go if my arm hadn't of snapped.
Also Left wall high, dropped the very end a few times just before being broken, kinda of represented a new level of fitness for me that I've never had so also very dissapointed with that one


Positive side is I'm all mended now and after a great session at the wall last night, I'm starting to get some strength back and I'm looking forward to getting out and climbing properly again (just need the 8 day week now)

[Doylo]

You gonna start warming up now then?

[Jim]

defo, I hate it tho, it tires me out

[Doylo]

defo, I hate it tho, it tires me out

Well you're not doing it properly then. Its not sposed to tire you out you dick

[Will Hunt]

Top three five boulder probs, UK
The Creme Egg Eliminate, Caley
Not To Be Taken Away, Stanage,
Jocks & Geordies, Kyloe In-The-Woods
The Horn left-hand, Caley
Si's Arete, Almscliff (tried with a very funny sequence, ended up being a hell of a fight)

Top three five trad routes/soloes UK
Mur y Niwl, Craig y Ysfa
Riders on the Storm, Stennis Head
Permutation Rib, Caley
South-West Climb, Pillar - Generally the whole experience of camping and climbing up there for a couple of days was top class.
Devil's Edge, Kyloe Out-of-the-Woods

Top three new route/prob put up
Lagopus Laughter Indirect, Lord's Seat

Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...
Conclusor, Ravensdale - This should really be in top routes but seeing as I had the shits and had skids in my kecks at the top on account of the near misses I'll put it down to be a spanking.
Wasted Time - Kyloe Out-of-the-Woods


Looking back at the logbook it is clear that climbing has suffered this year. Fortunately I was successful in achieving the goals that I gave precedence to so I feel vindicated. There was a bit of a hiccup in September when I declined my Masters place at the very last hour (almost literally) and then found, to my surprise, that I had no job and had better get one quick! Forgetting the first three or four months of it, 2011 has been a good year: got a good degree; passed my driving test; co-own an incredibly cute kitten; have been offered a full time, permanent job, doing exactly the kind of work that I want to do but was afraid I wouldn't be able to get into without a Masters.

 

[Duma]

I love this thread, psyche in a bottle.

Me too! Loving the background to why they were highlights and feeling I didn't contribute enough, so here's an annotated copy of my best:
UK :
Beauty 6C+ (Stanage)
Got up at 05:45 and drove to the peak for the day - very foggy and damp as I parked but as I finished warming up one of those windows in the mist opened and I did this lovely slab with the sun on my back and turned round to see the view revealed - perfect. Probably helped that it was my first day on grit for nearly a year.
Classic arete 5+ (Carn Brea)
Right Arete assis 5 (Carn Brea)
I grew up a few miles from here and have wandered up to the monument a few times but never really thought there was much of interest to climb - well, there's not a lot but what's there is lovely, pretty much every problem on the Aretes Boulder is as good as anything on dartmoor IMO. Just a shame about the A30 and Redruth's industrial estates below.
Abroad :
Barricades 7A (111, Font)
Our spring trip was spent largely in the Valle de la Mee - this was the best thing I did. Undercut arete to a committing slap to the very top of the boulder, just as you get high enough to make you think twice - very satisfying.
Puree de Noisettes 7B+ (Beorlots, Font)
Highlight of a very productive first day of the autumn trip, great move through the roof to compression at the lip. Went quickly too.
Ange Naif 7B+ (95.2, Font)
Last problem of the last day of the autumn trip, never been on it as in 10+ years it had always had groups sessioning it when I'd looked. We'd spent most of the day at Gros Sablons and dropped in to 95.2 on the way home. Thought I was done for the day/trip but had a look and finally a deserted problem - 15 minutes later stuck the sloper. Couldn't be more chuffed with this, wanted to do it for a very long time, fantastic for it to go so smoothly. To top it off we had three owls circling us up at Retour aux Sources as the light died half an hour later.

[slackline]

co-own an incredibly cute kitten

That in itself makes up for any disappointments you may have experienced.

[ducko]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Rock atrocity- unexpected accent.
Leftwall high- long and tiring nice moves
King of drunk- nice problem

Top three sport routes UK
Crunchy toad- best accent
Father for justice-nice climb, dont often do sport

Top Spanking's
Clevercleaver low start got it done but took far to long!

[Bonjoy]

Not a great year but some good bits here and there. The inexorable progression of my Dupuytren’s Contracture has finally got to the point where it really hampers climbing. 2012 will be the year I get something done about it, for better or worse….
In fact a lot of the best moments have been seeing/hearing of folk repeating some of my FAs and seeming to enjoy them. Ned doing Lip of Fools and The Eigth Fold; Dobbin doing Low Rider; Dan V doing Soft Rush and Tom R doing Great Tribulation spring to mind. Something to keep me going even if these wretched hands let me down.

Top three boulder probs, UK Haven’t done loads, hence shoehorning a couple of borderline highballs in
The Pride – Lion’s Rock – In contrast to JB I did this one on my tod for with one pad. Gradually dragging it out a bit further each attempt until it was too high to drop off and then had to commit. Brilliant fun
Charlotte Rampling – Gardoms – Done above lots of pads and a patio. Took two visits and a lot of manning up before I committed to the top
Severus Snape – Back Bowden – Great fun bagging this in a stolen couple of hours whilst in the area with work

Top three boulder probs, abroad One babified week in font. Didn’t get much done
Rataplat – Isatis
Lapin Au Canard (flash)– Isatis
L Angle Jean Luc (red 25) - Sabot

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Right Wall – Cromlech – The highlight of a great week tradding with Ed Brown in N Wales. It was a toss up between this an Ordinary Route (my first route on Gogarth Main Cliff). Brilliant route, worth the wait.
Get Rich Quick – Duke’s Quarry – London Wall’s dark and sinister southern cousin. Worth the huge cleaning effort
Fun Traverse – Black Rocks – Aptly named. The best falling-off-a-ledge move in the Peak?

Top three sport routes UK
Arch Enemies – Dovedale – Good to get this done before the wet streak reached the holds on a day of foul weather mostly spent huddling in a tiny dry strip under the arch as the rain lashed down to either side
The Ogre – Chee Tor – Brilliant climbing all the way
Hidden Sign – Castel y Gwynt – What a crag! Quality routage, one of Shark’s finest.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
N/A

Top three new route/prob put up Did a fair bit of this so have greedily picked three of each genre, to make up for lack of foreign routes.
Routes:
Soft Rush – Black Rocks – Almost a boulder prob. A line that had been on my to-do list for at least ten years.
The Eighth Fold – Black Rocks – If only this had a landing it’d be the best 7b prob in the area. As it is it’s a very safe boulder prob on a rope
Occam’s Raisin – Black Rocks – Not a particularly pure line but the moves, oh the moves. I love Black Rocks and am made up to have a route on this face of it which is one of the first bits of rock I ever climbed on.
Probs:
Johnny Nyeff Nyeff – Gentleman’s Rock
Roller Bowler Currant – Filthy Crag Q – Lovely boulely crossover move in a fontlike pine wood
Bo Bridges – Reynard’s Cave. Actually my first FA of a limestone boulder prob in UK (did a couple at Castle Hill NZ)

Top three spanking's
Our Forte – Stanton Moor Quarries – E5 my arse! In all respects the most comprehensive sandbagging I think I’ve ever received. I take some consolation in the fact it took Wideboy Randall two visits to do and that was the week before the start of his big crack trip! I failled to even dog it.
The Spider – Plum Buttress – Seems like my sort of thing on paper but has shut me down on both visits now
Behemoth – Central Buttress – I’m so rubbish at this kind of thing, the type of route where to stand any chance you have to place the good gear and then sprint past loads more good placements to get to the next rest. I always end up stopping and trying to faff more gear in. For this reason I have yet to try London Wall (think I’ll need to empty a hip flask before setting off!)

[uptown]

Milly, hens, work and the house haven't allowed me as much climbing time as I would've liked this year and I didn't quite get the 3 new 8's so that'll roll over.
I'm pretty pleased with what I did mange though.
A good 2012 to you all!

Top three boulder probs, UK
Hitchhikers guide to the galaxy, Kyloe. (7A+) An old favourite at an old favourite.
Underhand superextension, Almscliff. (7C+) Repeated again as part of my 'getting fit' challenge.
Spin strategy, Whitehouses. (8A) A whole dose of cunning which always makes me smile.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
No climbing abroad this year.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Shifter, Burnt crag. (E3) Climbing a great route with a great team on a foul day at a previously untried crag.
Deja vu, Kilnsey. (E5) Extreme rock repeat. Some of the best rock in the UK.
Visions in tan, Hawkcliffe. (E7) I only did a handful of trad routes so this makes it in for two categories. Gritstone sportclimbing at its best.

Top three sport routes UK
The Oak, Malham. (8b) Superbly intense. If only there were more UK sport routes like this. Shared my goes with Andy Cave and Lucinda which gave it a really nice feel good factor as we all came good in the end.
The velveteen rabbit, Trollers gill. (8b) Hard won yet excellent obscurity. If only there were more UK sport routes like this.
Frankie, Kilnsey. (7b+) and Obsession, Malham. (7b+) Little to choose between these two in terms of quality, and both proved to be involved and tough.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
No climbing abroad this year.

Top three new route/prob put up
The velveteen rabbit, Trollers gill. (8b) Took a lot of work cleaning, glueing and bolting and then an equal amount to climb. Neatly varied with a technical wall and powerful undercut to sloper to jug crux.
Visions in tan, Hawkcliffe. (E7) The name without a route finally gets placed. Seb got Gecko blaster, Grimer got Jumpey Wooller yet I get my first new E7 after the best part of twenty years of trying.
Corporal Khan (8A) Aragoncillo (7C+) People of the book (7C+) Second tour (7C+) Refraction attraction (7C+) Kenny boy low plinthless (7C+) Beat about the bush plinthless (7C+) Hawala (7C) and Hambali (7C), Whitehouses. Still trying though....

Top Spanking's
My project at Kilnsey due to congestion, atmosphere, unfitness and the crux hold getting glued up.
Whitehouses as usual.

[cheque]

Rock atrocity- unexpected accent.

"Rawk Atrassidy" 

I love this thread, too. Makes me feel like a bit of an underacheiver but that's good for the psyche as well! Sad to read of all the injuries people have suffered from- hopefully y'all will have better 2012s in that respect.

None of mine are anything to crow about difficulty-wise but they were all great experiences.

Bouldering:

Mistral at Chasecliffe is the only one that sticks out. One of my first trips out on my own after passing my driving test. Felt great to discover this crag, although my return visits were characterised by frustration rather than fulfillment. I must go back soon.

Trad:

John Peel, Dovedale: nasty greasy conditions, terrible route-reading and tactics made me feel like I was going to fail on this (doing the wrong start didn't help), then it just all clicked on the last third. Had a great view of my second hating it in the dimming light from the belay. Only just made it back to the car park before it was locked up for the night.

Eagle Front, Eagle Crag, Buttermere: similar experience to Will's at Pillar I imagine; great long mountain route the highlight of a fantastic couple of days spent camped up there. Did it as a three and it took ages. I got the best two pitches.

Army Dreamers, St. Govan's: had four days in Pembroke, all of which featured me leading classics spoilt by crap drizzly weather. On the last day we woke to beautiful sunshine, packed up and went to St. Govan's where I cruised this in front of a crowd of applauding grannies. Spent the remaining time 'til the drive back on the beach leering at girls in bikinis. 

Sport:

Turkish Standard, Geyikbeyiri, Antalya: just one of many great routes I did out there. Stands out as my first onsight at the grade.

Es Sahhaf, Geyikbeyiri, Antalya

Flowstone Shuffle, Penmaen Head: The first truly good sport route I ever did.

Spankings:

Some pocketed 6c slab thing in Geyikbeyiri. Totally overgraded. Must have lost holds or something. 

Pretty much every grit boulder problem over 6B I've tried...

I plan to have a much more impressive report for 2012 ( in the spankings section at least). Can't promise it'll measure up to most people's 'pretty poor years' though!

[galpinos]

Top three boulder probs, UK

I’ve had some really fun days out but now individual problems have really shone out above the enjoyment of the entire day spent climbing with friends.

Having said that, 2012 has started well with a day at Stanage (as were all of UKB as far as I could tell) and Cresent Arete Right Hand did really stand out. Fantastic, but will have to be added to the Best of 2012 in 12 months time……

Top three boulder probs, abroad

N/A

Top four* trad routes/soloes UK

*I’ve snuck a winter route in.

Grey Slab Combo – after 7 pitches on climbing through gradually thinning crowds up from the base of the Idwal slabs, finding myself run-out on a lovely bold slab, feeling nervous and unable to think of anything but the picture in classic rock of a man, in a near identical position on the route, stood resplendent in tweed and big boots and smoking a pipe looking every inch the relaxed country gent. Part of a classic rock weekend as my last trip as a single man with my best man, the lad I leant to climb with.

Wuthering – First airy trad route of the year. Not hard but really enjoyed the exposure and managed to keep a cool head. One I’ve always looked at and walked on by but a word of encouragement and a vote of confidence form my belayer meant I actually stopped below it and tied in (the definite crux)

San Melas/Wings of Unreason – The peak of my trad performance and the culmination of a few after work trips to the Roaches building confidence and a good partnership

Hadrian’s Wall Direct – My first proper V. Did the bulk of the leading, got scared, thought we done all the hard bits and started the romp to the top only to find there was a wall barring our access for the summit, managed to run out of ropes on 60s, topped out in a white out, did all the nav to get us off, walked down in the dark, missed the pub for food – a proper day out! (Scottish Winter I know but still essentially trad….)

Top three sport routes UK

No real sport this year to talk about despite my aims. I enjoyed a day at Masson Lees but imagine putting that down might get me a UKB ban.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

N/A

Top Spanking's

Peapod – Wall strength and over confidence (it’s only HVS…..) found me stranded above the pod trying to get established on the ledge. Panic and poor decision making led to very pumped arms, a tumble and a battered ego. Got back on and found it fine with a little thought and respect.

From the above it seems that it’s being on the end of a rope that floats my boat the most. The main things I’ve found is that encouraging and supportive friends have lead me to push myself that bit harder, a shame I didn’t push on! I blame the new wife…..

[metal arms]

Top 3 1 boulder problems UK

I guess from my only trip bouldering in 2011 it'll have to be Razor Roof at Cratcliffe.  Took me about ten or so goes, and I was made up when I topped out (elegantly like a rhinoceros).

Top 3 trad routes UK

Anything from our Fairhead trip in July.  Week of perfect (if a little windy) sunny weather.  I guess standout routes were Conchubair, Cu Chullain, Hurricane, Sandpiper and Burn Up.  If I had to pick though...

Hurricane.  What a monster of a first pitch 

Any of the HVS's on the Wen Slab.  We did The Concrete Chimney and Wen while waiting for our ferry to Ireland for the Fairhead trip.  Which was nice...  Although I think I enjoyed Dream the most.  We abbed in late in the day and topped out at about half 9, before driving home.  A fine end to a weekend jaunt to North Wales.

Great Central Route at Chee Tor.  Hard (for me).  Scared.  Thought I would piss it as I'd just done one of the E3's with very little bother.  Oh no!  Really enjoyed the climbing up to the break.  Above that it's a battle and a half.  Kicked some of my gear out, gibbered a bit.  Dug in and topped out absolutely drained.  Retrospectively great.

Top 3 sport routes UK

Bream In Black at Cheedale - Not an amazing route but the quickest I've ever done 7a (out of my 3!).  Fell off low down on my o/s go.  Dogged the rest putting the clips in, and then did it next go.

Contusion at Pen Trwyn - Brilliant.  Got Miss Arms to put the clips in and tell me where the hard bits were, then flashed it.  Brilliant move right at the top when you're knackered!

Great Balls of Fire on the Colossus Wall (I know, I know but I've run out of space in the trad bit and there are definitely bolts on it!) - I backed off this low down a while ago when I wasn't going very well.  We had about an hour before the car park locked and I was feeling like I was going well so got on with it.  A couple of nervous moments in the first couple of runouts but I had to get cracking because of the car.  Got it done, Miss Arms seconded in fine (fast) style.  Ran back to the car park at Vivian with about a minute and a half to spare, sweaty and exhausted but really really happy.

Top 3 routes abroad

I've been to Buoux and Verdon this year so three just isn't enough but I'll give it a go.

Agorgeomocles at The Pichenbule abseil - 4 pitch 6c+.  Absolutely brilliant.  Did this as a treat on our last day in the gorge and really enjoyed it.  Gave Miss Arms the 6c+ pitch through genorosity and watched her fall off a vicious, crimpy, pockety sequence and then suprised myself by flashing it!  She then had the pleasure of watching me fall off the steep 6c pitch into miles of air and then flashed it.  Great day, we both pushed the boat out and were suitably rewarded.

A Tout Coeur at Le Dalles Grises - 7 pitch 6b+.  First route in the gorge this year.  Suprised myself by onsighting the  6b+ pitch with relative ease.  Then the storm hit.  Miss Arms ran the top pitches together in a monster hailstorm (which hit every day at 3pm while we were there) off line on a 6a instead of the 5/4 in the gully!  Brilliant fun.  Windproofs aren't waterproof!

Alambic Sortie Sud at TCF Buoux - 6b.  Brilliant pockety climbing.  Fell off on the onsight at the crux, put the rest off the clips in and made the pant-wetting mantle to the chains.  Miss Arms flashed it after threatening to bottle it at the top.  "I don't want to, I'm too scared."  After a bit of shouting at her and with her confidence bolstered she made the move easily.  I got it next go.  I love Buoux even though it's really hard.

Top new routes

Not sure if they're new but not seen them recorded anywhere.  At Cala S'Algar, Mallorca (will have to check this as I don't have the photos to hand) just North of Porto Colom on a rest day we went exploring a big sea cliff and did a really long sea(ish) level traverse that culminated in a 35/40m VS(ish) climb out.  We also did a couple of bouldery routes out near the start of the traverse.  I must remember to pop these on UKC.  It's fun for a rest day but obviously no Diablo/Barques.

Top 3 spankings

Axle Attack at Pen Trwyn - Suprised myself by getting all the moves on this.  First go utterly dogged the shit out of it and didn't reach the belay.  Second go linked all the moves with one rest (at the groove).  Haven't got back on but I reckon it'll go!  This is a top spanking because I enjoyed it rather that getting totally shut down.

Anything on the Egg boulder at Cratcliffe - What the fuck.  Anything above V1 is impossible.  I don't understand.  It all looks so easy.  I may have spat the dummy a bit and declared it rubbish!

Rubicon Wall at Rubicon Wall at Rubicon Wall at etc. - Done all the moves on all my goes.  Can't link it.  Get upside down, strength goes, fall off.  Repeat.  Miss Arms did it second go.  Bitch.



Best.  Thread.  Ever.  Psyched out of my tiny little mind at work!

[Paul B]

off line on a 6a instead of the 5/4 in the gully!  Brilliant fun.  Windproofs aren't waterproof!

I'm yet to hear of anyone not going off-line on this, even after being told by a mate we still managed. Turns out the guidebook is wrong, quell surprise.

Top three boulder probs, UK
NA / Can't think of any, I did a lot of ticking of odd problems here and there from a slightly esoteric list but can't remember which side of near year that fell.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A - this seems to highlight a massive shift that I've had over the past few years.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Tricky one this, having done a LOT of fairly easy/middling trad, mostly with 3*'s...

Lyme Crime w/ Phrantic Phinish - I'd wanted to do this for years as you see the jugs every time you ab off. It didn't disappoint.

Regent St.

Flaky Wall / Supersonic Combo - Got lost on flaky wall and ended up on Supersonic.

Top three sport routes UK
Monsterosity  - This kickstarted my sport season with a lesson in tenacity. Made more memorable by skipping all of the clips between the flake and the upper lip.

K3 - felt absolutely desperate for the first session but yielded quickly thereafter. It made me very aware of how crucial minute body-position beta can be.

Devonshire Arms - I was told this was nails and couldn't touch the lower crux or the upper RP crux and then it all suddenly fell together (and it was all down to my feet for a change).

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Rideuax du Gwendal - I can't see climbing getting much better than this; fantastic positions (sandwich sat on the tombstone), contrasting pitches, long etc. Made even better by the fact its pretty much at Nats limit and she was giving it her all. We also managed to climb it extremely quickly.

L'ange en decomposition - A mildly terrifying position, with climbing that just isn't my forte.

Moskitos - expected this to be a tottering pile of choss and I wasn't exactly happy about sidestepping the main event nearby however it was ridiculously memorable.

Top three new route/prob put up
Ol' Man River, Froggatt - sadly a flawed problem

Top Spanking's

The Rasp - We went to Stanage for something else one evening to find it absolutely heaving. Clearly I wasn't going to get on my route of choice so we nipped over to Higgar. No time left for a warm-up before jumping on and the inevitable pump that followed. I just climbed like a bag of shit that evening.

A fantastic year really with a lot more time spent on rock than any previously. Certainly its been the year I've most enjoyed climbing thus far. Here's hoping 2012 will be as good.

[SA Chris]

Top 3 boulder problems UK

Ironstone Edge - Corby's

Little X Direct - Corby's

Pimples - Rhue blocks (i think that's what it's called)

Top 3 boulder problems abroad

Didn't boulder abroad this year

Top trad routes UK

Not much done this year, but had a pleasant day out at Glen Clova doing all the easy routes on NE Crag again.
Also a good day highballing / soloing at Corby's

Top 3 sport routes UK

I clipped not a bolt

Top 3 route abroad

Didn't go abroad this year.

Top new boulders/routes

Nice new non tidal one mover down at Muchalls, created by a bit of patioing when all the tidal stuff was piss wet through.

Two halves of traverse at new spot. both great probs in their own right.

New prob on the pinnacle at the new spot.

Top 3 spankings

Linking two halves of the new traverse. By the time a viable sequence had been worked out my arms went to putty, and it has been seeping since.

Numerous waves have also spanked me this year.

[kc]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Absolutely nothing, just board myself doing laps on Ben's roof in the middle of winter.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Abroad!! would rather be on a beach or a slope.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Whats that then?

Top three sport routes UK

Aberation on Two Tier, not my sort of thing really, standing on feet but I surprised myself and really enjoyed it.

Zeke the Freak. 8b in December doesn't get much better.

Top three routes abroad

I wish

Top three new route/prob put up

Not a bad year on this front. First off was an extention start to Ben's Roof that was good training for a Cornice project.

Gran Techo (big/great roof) Fired this one off as soon as it dried out.

K5. You may all think this is a daft link-up but where else locally can you get a euro-enduro style pitch with blazing forarms. Fantastic! Also a good one to try on a busy day with all the clips insitu. "Get out my fucking way I'm coming through"

Clematis. A bit different to Bricktop, more of a recovery test. At the junction with Nemesis two tricky boulder problams await with good rests between. I actually really enjoyed redpoints on this.
Falling of just meant I could enjoy some more, no pressure.

Top Spanking's

I am really good at this.

The Terrace. Burbage This is not fun anymore.

Having just done Zeke you would think that a route just to its left 2 grades easier would be a formality. I really hate this route and don't want to go on it ever again.

Minos. Two Tier. I hate this route too.

Devonshire arms. I don,t hate it. I must be doing something wrong. Dammit!

[turnipturned]

Top three ten boulder probs, UK

Special Cases, Stone
Tourniquet, Kentmere
Bonnie, Cave
Supercede, Hartlands
Jason's Roof, Crookrise
Sabotage, Dumbarton
Zoo York, Caley
Colorado Dreaming, Tintagel
Corridors of Power, Hartlands
Scary Canary, Caley

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Sofa Surfer, Magic
Minsex, Magic
Small Jack

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

One of them E3 things at Reecastle (the good one were you can stick loads of those metal things in it)
Top roped Torture Board (Gave it a long think about leading it but couldnt get the memory of landing of Ben's face from 10 Metres out of my head)
Topped out the crack at the Bowderstone (Breaking a hand hold and foot hold in the process)

Top three sport routes UK: Only have one day to go on

Subculture, Kilnsey
Wizzy wiggle (or summit), Kilnsey
Comedy, Kilnsey (that route had a right good laugh at me falling of the top jug on flash, gutted)

Top three routes abroad

People go abroad to go route climbing??? Mad!

Top three new route/prob put up

Ha, Anyone want to here what stupid link ups I did on the stone, Nope didnt think so.

Top Spanking's
Massively Shit, Magic Wood (Why the foook did I bother trying this shit shit line)
Most sessions with Ben Freeman/ Katz on the Grit.
Allowing Dave Jones on my board was a bad idea. Be warned.

[SA Chris]

One of them E3 things at Reecastle (the good one were you can stick loads of those metal things in it)

White Noise?

[Muenchener]

Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...

At least you had the sense to read - and remember - the guidebook and go the right way instead of carrying on straight up the crack like I did. I don't remember finding it that traumatic, but parties in the line of fire below were less than impressed. (NB this wasn't 2011, more like 1981 iirc)

[csurfleet]

Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...

I thought the crux was the bottom of the first pitch. Of course, the tide had just gone out and it was slimy as buggery. Worst bit for my partner however was the final traverse, I'd been so relieved to be standing on the ledge that I forgot to put a bit of gear in for him and he had to second it with 20ft of rope out *oops!*

[fried]

Top 3 boulder problems France

I've done hundreds of problems all with exotic names such as 'Blue 17', I must have Alzheimer's 'cos nothing sticks in my mind except:-

Consuelo 5 - Buthier Piscine (lovely weather in early spring)
Quelle Conque - 5+ Petit Bois
Doing an entire Blue circuit (Restant do longue rocher) in a heat wave.

Top 3 boulder problems UK

First time on Grit in 10 years everything was fantastic, but had lots of kids/ dogs in tow, so just did loads of easy stuff. The only things I remember exactly were -

Tiny Slab left-hand (In the sun in August, but the only thing I was allowed to spend  any time on)
The traverse of the slab on that large block at the bottom of Robin hood stride 5C. The hardest thing I climbed in the U.K.

Top 3 spankings (bottling off)

This list could go on forever

Joe's arete - I was tired, I needed a spotter...
Science friction - I got lost, it was misty, I forgot to cut my toenails, My feet hurt in my 'whites'.
Maurice gratton - Every time I visit Canche aux mercier I have a play on this problem, this year was no different; I failed to leave the ground!

And as slackers has mentioned everything on the Egg boulder at Cratcliffe.

[Duncan campbell]

Top 3 Boulder Problems

Chaos Emerald Crack - Just Fantaby-tosy!! Brilliant, smooth rock, slightly Highball, and insecure as f*ck.
Parisella's Original - First  proper tick in the Cave and I bleedin' flashed it! Not really V6?
Dog Shooter - Lovely moves!

Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad

Only bouldered in Squamish and only really did the following 3 V4's still they are all excellent!

Sloppy Poppy - Thrutchy top-out, I only just made it!
Easy in an Easy Chair - Brilliant once you get it all right.
Superfly - A frustrating move but hey its close to the road and has a flat landing!

Top 3 UK Trad Routes

Capital Punishment - Hardest E4 I've done I think, just awesome if a little scary...
Glass Arete - Really good moves, just made me 
The Butcher - greasy at the bottom into the wet jug made me doubt my abilities but I did it, was fairly psyched upon topping out.

Top 3 Foreign Routes

Squamish Buttress - Brilliant crux pitch very reminiscent of the Grasper at Bwlch y Moch
La Novia - Hardest onsight to date, the bolt spacing just made it more fun! Perfect balance of aggression and focus.
Seasoned in the Sun - Felt way harder than exasperator so it gets a better wrap, made it by the skin of my teeth!

Top 3 UK Sport Routes

Rub-A-Dub-Dub - Felt hard and scary 1st go up but brilliant clipping the chains on the RP. Was interesting getting out of the Diamond on arms freshly squeezed on the successful attempt!
Julio Juvenito - Nearly onsight.
Barely and UK sport this year, only a few 6as not worth mentioning.

Top 3 Spankings

Stroll On - thought it would be a path after trip to El chorro -  Fell quite a few times - that crux is HARD!
Cream - Just brilliant being up on that headwall! Fell off the crux move, wrong size cam and not enough commitment! Lowered and seconded.
Pilier Dorada - Really wanted to do this as I want to get good at wall climbing! Fell once, rested and went to the top. Didn't RP, not sure why.

However, I started to look on spankings in a different light this year - simply as further preperation to make it so that one day you can climb that style/grade/whatever... a turning point for me for sure.

2011 the best year yet (I keep saying that), wonder what 2012 will hold...