[cofe]

My leanest year for some time, but did some good stuff, including:

Northern Soul, Hepburn – finally got up there to do this and it didn't disappoint. The best problem in the UK?
Alliance sit-start, Burbage – I'd always dismissed this as log, but then it climbs with a really lovely sequence at the bottom, plus you get to do the Alliance on top. Honorable mention to Desparate too.
Big Girl's Brow, Filthy Crag Q – pretty much the last thing this year, on an horrifically windy day – shame we had to bail cos of the wind. Great problem.

Mur de Lamentations, Font – bit of a surprise, it came out of nowhere. The first classic 'old school' hard Font prob I've done, and my hardest in Font. On a great trip too with amazing company and tomfoolery.

Don't really do routes, but Magical Mystery Tour at Berry Head is one of the best bits of climbing I've ever done. Hopefully I'll have enough testicles, stamina and arm bands to try Rainbow Bridge this August.

Did a bit of sport, and enjoyed Hungry Eyes down Chee Dale.

Spankings: dropped the last move on Cave sitter at the tor 3 or 4 times, before boredom/hurty knee won out. Boo hoo. 

[Johnny Brown]

I love this thread, psyche in a bottle. So much better than the 'did I acheive my stated goals thread'. My aim for 2012 is to do more stuff, and less planning.

Definitely my worst year ever, really dreadful.

Poor Nige hope it heals properly in the end.

Careless Torque,
China In Your Hands

Seconded a lot of the Chee Tor harder routes though, such as Autobahn, Snapdragon, Apocalypse, and Ceramic Extension.

Cosmopolitan 7b+
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag 7b+
Minos 7c+
Toproping Powerplant the non-kneebar way, and flash Stone The Loach

Would you call that a bad year Fiend? I'll stop short of saying 'my heart fucking bleeds Nige', but if my worst year ever involves DOING CARELESS TORQUE, then leading 7c+ and toproping 8a/ flashing 7c, I think I'll get over it. 

Mur de Lamentations, Font – bit of a surprise, it came out of nowhere. The first classic 'old school' hard Font prob I've done, and my hardest in Font. On a great trip too with amazing company and tomfoolery. 

Probably the most inspiring thing I witnessed last year. Fucking amazing! 

[Nibile]

I haven't climbed that much, but here are the things that stand out:
- the entire UK trip, with in particular Rock Atrocity for the physical and mental battle;
- my incredible progress on my project;
- flashing a few things that I had to flash;
- building my wall and rediscovering how much I needed my climbing friend.
didn't do any new route I think, nor any kind of trad or alpine this summer.
top spankings:
- anything I tried in Varazze (but managed a 7a that involved campusing from a half pad two finger pocket...)

[Fiend]

I thought you HAD done Careless Torque. And not broken your ankle?

I too liked Cofe's Mur de thingy choice, your list in general, Dave's new problem at Burbage that actually looks good, also nai's and Stabby's stuff.

[Johnny Brown]

Are you winding me up? No I haven't done Careless, I can't even do the start any more. Boo fuckin hoo.

[Stubbs]

I can't even do the start any more.

Has it got too polished? 

[benpritch]

Top three boulder probs, UK


Malc's Arete - Torridon, perfect arete, massive tussle for 7a+
Some things at the Bowderstone


Top three boulder probs, abroad


King Cobra - Yosemite, scary and amazing, hat's off to Adam W for picking one of the plum lines in Camp 4
Acid Wash R- Happys not a totally amazing problem but good climbing and a bit of a fight to complete it.
Baba Hari Das [sp?] - Squamish, place was soaked but somehow this one was dry

Top three trad routes/soloes UK



Top three sport routes UK

not a very inspiring list but they are the only ones

Powerplant - Cornice
This is the sea -Cornice
The Green Alternative - tor

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

every route I did in Buoux was amazing. Best climbing venue ever?

Top three new route/prob put up

n/a

Top Spankings

Thriller - Yosemite, been wanting to do this since i first tried it in '92. The perfect boulder problem but not my style.
Four Door Dostoyevsky - Cornice, from the big hole to the top on my first day, then a lot of tries and days later still not done it
Mussell Beach - LPT, aaaargh
Dresden - Buoux, eeek terrifying, can't believe I used to do it as a warm up occasionally
The Crack - Bowden, every time I went to try this the person or persons I went to try it with did it and i didn't. One time five others did it and i didn't.
Half Way House - Cave, shothole ticklage but no cigar and lately not even getting that far. difficult without recourse to knees

[GazM]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Gale Force Sit - Laggan
Strongbow - Laggan
Sanctuary - Applecross

Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
San Melas - first trad route of 2011, fluttery!
Deranged at St Govan's - never heard of it before getting on it, but ended up one of the best routes of the year.
Stripteaser, Loch Tollaidh - my dream! Fairly bold slab, perfect high friction gneiss.

Top three sport routes UK
Mactalla, Goat Crag - finally redpointed after a few days of effort in the spring.
Pink Pinkie Snuffs It - 1st try after failing to onsight in 2010.  Surprised!
The Final Straw, The Camel - long, interesting, airy, esoteric pebble pulling.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Only 1 trip to spain this year, of which the best route was probably Beta de Boira, Espedelles, Margalef

Top three new route/prob put up
various things at Laggan boulders but the best problems keep getting nabbed when I show them to my mates...

Top Spankings
Malc's Arete, Torridon - 2 years of trying.  Still counting...

[Fiend]

Johnny you should give CT a go, right up your street  I reckon.

Stripteaser, Loch Tollaidh - my dream! Fairly bold slab, perfect high friction gneiss.

Woot! That's a good choice. Did that last summer. Someone had recommended it as "steady", bah it's bloody bold and sustained. Properly good slab route.

[jern]

For numerous reasons 2011 was a shit year for both generally and for climbing. These are the highlights of my 10 visits to the crag:

Top three boulder probs, UK - Rippled Wall, Bonehill. Have done this many times before but it is the only boulder prob I did this year.


Top three boulder probs, abroad - N/A


Top three trad routes/soloes UK - Longships Wall, Lands End  - Has been on the list for years, but always beaten by tides and conditions. Not this time. Not as much of a fight as I'd hoped for, could be because it's like a peice of Wilton by the sea!

Devils Meridian - Levans Wall. Got halfway up on the onsight and was overcome by deja-vu. I had in fact been spat off back in 1998 / 1999. No arsing around this time though - great route, good honest crack climbing.

Top three sport routes UK - Still Waters Run Deep, Cheddar. Got spat on the onsight in 2006. Went back this year and got it first go putting clips in.
Did a few other sport routes but nothing worth mentioning.

Top three routes abroad (any genre) - didn't go abroad last year. Will do next year though

Top three new route/prob put up - N/A

Top Spanking's - Arms Race at Avon. Took a whipper in 1999 trying to clip the bolt. Couldn't get that far this time. As soon as we get a decent day I will sort this out.

Highlight of the year was getting a job after 6 months of stress. Moving to NZ in Feb.

[Dolly]

I worked too much over the spring  and summer and early autumn to do anywhere near enough climbing.

Couple of things were good. Presence of Absence - which a couple of others have mentioned. Quite enjoyed Desperot as well.
I went to Scugdale a few times which is in a lovely place and I usually had the crag to myself.

Still getting spanked on Ben's Wall @ Curbar - have only been trying it on and (mainly) off for 12 years. Apparently you have to hang the pocket to get the tick and not just hit it.

[RichK]

Top three boulder probs/UK

Little of note, few things in't Pass.

Top three boulder probs abroad

Zilch

Top 3 4 trad routes/solo's UK

An oddly lean year on the trad, too busy getting sucked up by the sport climbing vortex...... Saying that I'm pretty pleased getting these in the bag as they've all been on the list for years.
 
The Nectarine Run, Pass - waited way too long to get this done. Totally brilliant.
                                             
Satsumo Wrestler, The Pass - first E6 o/s whoopee doo. Looked easy looking down it from NR belay, felt nails on the runout headwall & terrifying. 

Ceramic Extension, Chee Tor - Intended on just Ceramic, felt good so kept going. 

Tufty Club Rebellion, Scimitar Ridge, Pass. Ace, always a joy to climb here.

Top 3 Sport Routes, UK

Supercool, Gordale. Fuckin' brill!! Believe the hype, its the best around.

Pierrepoint, Gordale - nigh on O/S...clips were in.

Sea is a brown paper bag, Cheedale. Surprisingly good.

Top three sport routes abroad

Dresden, Courage Fuyons & Le Loir stand out from Buoux.

Everything at La Balme de Yenne

Final Fantasy,  Tournoux, Val Durance.

Fight Club, Rue de Masque, Val Durance.

Top Spankings

Diaclase 7b+, Grand Bois, Val Durance. 34.5 metres of quality tussle in 30+ degrees heat in 60+ minutes of climbing...all to fail 6 inches from the chain. Sulked for hours.

 Effectively a spanking....Popped an A2 & A3 attempting to O/S Cry of Despair in September. Lay off ensued

[andy popp]

Satsumo Wrestler, The Pass - first E6 o/s whoopee doo. Looked easy looking down it from NR belay, felt nails on the runout headwall & terrifying. 

Effort. I seconded Johnny on his (OS) first ascent and thought it was hard and goey. Reckon you chose a pretty solid one for your first E6 OS.

Tufty Club Rebellion, Scimitar Ridge, Pass. Ace, always a joy to climb here.

Whaheyyyyy!

[T_B]

My son was born in April, so I did very little roped climbing in 2011. One brilliant 2-week trip to Font in September - hot weather, but loads of climbing, including some classics that have eluded me previously. And a work trip to the Alps during the worst spell of weather in July. Locally, I mopped up a few things that I've always struggled with...

Top three boulder probs, UK
Beneath the Breadline, Plantation. Have always found this desperate. Success due to lots of crouching around aretes at the Works?
Ben's Wall, Robin Hood's Stride. Felt easy - weird.
Rocket Man, Burbage Bridge. Weird dyno.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
El Poussif, Isatis. How many times have I tried this over the years? Day 9 of climbing and my Font eye was in. Did it along with L'Angle Bens despite it being hot.
Carnage, Cuvier. 28 degree heat!
La Proue, Medonnet. Near Cham. Nice to visit a new venue, though a better line than it climbs really.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Grand Potato, Baslow. Pre-fatherhood psyche and tons of pads.
Silk, Stanage. After many, many attempts over the years. Well chuffed.
Puffed Up, Newstones. A Staffs gem.

Top three sport routes UK
One evening down the Cornice, trying Free Monster and that was it!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Diretta al Banano, a 5+ multi-pitch at Machaby. Beat an on-coming storm.
Cosmiques Arete. Shame about the crowds, but it is a fun day out. The Little Chamonix of Chamonix.
Black & White, Feechi, Saas Grund. Esoteric sport crag but sooo psyched to do some pitches, having hardly tied on all summer. Well psyched to o/s this tricky 7a+.

Top three new route/prob put up
None.

Top Spankings
Low Rider. 5 sessions I think. Did it to the jug and from the jug to the top, but never really got a brilliant sequence for the move onto the jug, so totally wasted by that point. Shelved.

Am pretty pleased to have kept my hand in all year, despite other priorities. Thank F for the Foundry lunch time sessions and the Works!

[Dr T]

Top three boulder probs, UK
 
Weedkiller Traverse
The Kraken
Headbanger or maybe Dead Calm...


Top three boulder probs, abroad

Magic Bus
Yogi
Retour aux Sources

As for the rest I don't own any string - at least not any I'd trust anymore...

[slackline]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Hmm, not much bouldering this year (and I'm crap!) but had a good day out at RHS/Cratcliffe a month ago where I finally got up The Egg after having tried for a few years, and surprised myself getting along the Boring Traverse first try to get my first 6C (tried for a similar time as The Egg, could do all the moves but never link), and some other rounded arete over at RHS.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

As above, don't climb hard so now't I did have names, but enjoyed first trip to Font in three or four years.  Usually do circuits and got one done each day (orange & blues) at a new area each time.  Particularly enjoyed the blue circuit at Isatis (49 problems, great fun, mates first full circuit too, he'd always had a jaded view of bouldering in Font before hand).

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Long John's Slab (first E3, although lost my balance psyching myself up on the initial starting ledge and took a head-first dive onto the boulders, what a fucking dick I am!).
Suspense (got to get back on it and not be such a wuss to take the full tick though)
Sirplum (mate got the short straw of the first pitch, I had the fun lead )


Top three sport routes UK

Not done much sport in the UK but enjoyed various routes at Penmean Head purely because it was raining and it saved the day having driven over (plus despite the crap setting flowstone wall actually has some nice routes that I could do!).  Enjoyed bolted routes on slate too.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Easy, all were in the Dolomites...

Tissi Route/West-South-West Arete on the First Sella Tower
Vinatzer / West Face on the Third Sella Tower
South West Arete, Torre Venezia

Top three new route/prob put up

 

Top Spanking's

Where do I begin....

[willackers]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Zoo York, Caley, I kept putting it off because I thought I was going to have an epic on it but it went quicker than I thought, awesome problem!

Big Al Qaeda, Robin Hoods Stride, went back to it over Christmas after getting spanked on it a few years ago, brilliant bit of climbing and stiff for 7B!

Master Kush, Rivelin Edge, did this a few days ago, great moves, one of the Peaks finest.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Imothep, Fontainebleau, what a perfect boulder problem, my first proper 8A in the forest, climbed in the last hour of our trip before leaving for the ferry, magical.

Misericorde, Fontainebleau, wanted to climb this for years, nearly died falling from the top before the send, awesome!

La Merveille, Fontainebleau, still can't believe I managed this, in a session as well!, hard, high, crux at the top, incredible. I love font.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Requiem, Dumbarton, massive route with loads of history, the most intimidating line I've ever set off up and seen. What an epic, my first E8, all the 8's

Menopause, Stoney, got pumped fiddling in wires after the crux, held on in for the onsight, good fight. Hard route!

Narcissus, Frogatt, cheated above pads, good to tick a classic though.

Top three sport routes UK

Zoolook, Malham, super classic, wanted to climb this for a long time, wet top out as well, sketchy.

GBH, Malham, great climbing, the left wall of Malham is brilliant.

Railway Children, Tunnel Wall, 7C  onsight in the freezing cold with numb fingers, good times.

Top three new route/prob put up

Sabotaged, Dumbarton, really pleased to have got this, completed what is now a brilliant Sabotage Block trilogy. 3 amazing 8's

Ladderman, Dumbarton, cleaned up a project out of the new guide.

Top Spanking's

Careless, Stanage, been stood up once, can't repeat it, weak.

Cypher, Slipstones, 4 sessions and counting.



Had a pretty good year looking back, more psyched than ever!

I hope everyone has a good 2012!

 

[duncan]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Joe's Arete, Leggit and erm... 
Really should be trying harder. 

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Cough...

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1. AMERICA!  YESYESYESYESYES!
2. Reach For The Sky.  Representative of several good trips to Pembroke.  A fine route and a typically under-starred and properly graded offering from the early 80s. 
3. Commander Energy. A rare grit foray, a beautiful cool crisp evening, sun going down, Staffordshire looking marvellous.  Not hard at all but it satisfyingly incorporated almost everything I am bad at.   

Top three sport routes UK
1. Mr. Choo Choo.  First 7a for a while, RPed but fairly efficiently.  Good moves.
2. Shakin' Like A Leaf.  Allegedly 7a, felt like E3 6a.  Fine climbing.
3.

Top three routes abroad
1. Comici, Cima Grande
2. Alberto Rabadá o Murciana, Riglos
3. Inshallah Factor, Wadi Rum
Three excellent trips with great company and some long-standing goals achieved. 

Top Spankings
Ripe Old Age and Haunted by a Million Screams, both seemed rather hard on first and only acquaintance but both had mitigating circumstances.  No real spankings, which is a small problem in itself.  I should be failing on more things.  Perhaps that should be added to goals for 2012?


All-in-all a fine year: least injury-prone and best climbing since the 90s.  Same recent parenthood tactics as T_B: saved by lunchtime sessions at The Arch.  Similar but more so next year please.

[tomtom]

This is really hard! anyway..

Boulder problems UK

Underhand. Spent 10 sessions working it and got it licked in the spring... At the end of a long long session on it, cheered on/spotted by a passing Uptown.

Steves Wall, Almscliff. An odd but really enjoyable problem.. the first move requires lank and strength - took me a while to get the latter! The second move required me to perfect a kind of right leg flick and tuck to get the move and prevent a dab.. that took ages and felt oddly great when done.

Badger Arete, Kentmere. This has been 'within my grade' for a couple of years, but I've never got it together on it (its near my Foks house so gets a visit only when I'm up there). A month ago on a damp afternoon I got my shit together and nailed it. Felt superb, and nearly fell off the top out I was so happy

Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..

The rest - some bimbling in Rhodes, and only tied a rope on once this year

Top Spankings.

The Rasp at Higgar. Tried to second Nai up this... realised why I've not climbed trad for years! Got pumped to f*ck less than 1/2 way up, all technique and skill went out of the window, had to be lowered off.

Peak Lime Bouldering. I failed on everything with a 7 on it.. all I seem to do on it is tweak myself.. after a great spring on the grit I was psyched for some lime progress.. and made none.. next year I'll just treat it as a dirty training exercise rather than something to be enjoyed

The Keel. I got the furthest on my first session on it! Since then backwards! I seem to have 3 lifes on this per session then my core implodes One for 2012......

[andy popp]

Why did Will have to post just as mustered the courage to record my pitiful year (another!), blighted by injuries and just too many commitments.

Top three problems

Harmers Arete (Harmers); Great highball that took far too much faffing.
Roll Out of the Barrel (Helsby); why did it take me so long to get round to this.
Three Left Hands (Helsby); I love this problem

Top three problems abroad (i.e. not in Cheshire)

Mur Pen Clegir (Mur Pen Clegir); pleased to get this great problem with dodgy knee and no spotters.
Burnt Heather (Thorn); heresy, but this looks much better than it climbs. Still, great to get to Thorn at last.
Score (Thorn); lovely!


First ascents

At the Drive In (Harmers); Really enjoyed this. And I did it and someone much younger and better than me didn't. Which was nice.
Artful Dodging (Helsby); an eliminate link-up - but a goodone, honest!
Stig Arete (Harmers); possibly/probably not an FA but a very neat little arete.

Nothing for any other category. This year looks set, if anything, to be even busier. On the upside I should be able to jettison sprog No. 1 come the autumn.

[nai]

This is really hard! anyway..

Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..

So hard you had to include one from  December 2010 

[tomtom]

This is really hard! anyway..

Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..

So hard you had to include one from  December 2010 

Pants.. I'd done three, then suddenly remembered that one! I'll get me coat...

[Andy F]

Not a classic year but:

Top 3 Boulder problems
Big Marine
7a roof problem at Burbage
Little extra direct start (without the undercut mono as I didn't know it was there  )

Top 3 Sports routes
Gwennan (Dinbren)
Mr Nice (Kilnsey)
Cordless Madness (The Cornice)

Top 3 Spankings
Scavenger (Malham) Every time I put my clips in the sun came out.
Elite Syncopations (Dinbren) Should have crushed, repeatedly failed
Powerplant (the Cornice) So many sequences wasted so much time. Next Year.

[Fiend]

El Poussif, Isatis. How many times have I tried this over the years? Day 9 of climbing and my Font eye was in. Did it along with L'Angle

I've done this! The highlight of my Font trips, what a good problem, looks so cool and climbs so well.

I like tomtom's story of the -14'c downhill direct tick

[nik at work]

Top none boulder probs, UK
Not really done much bouldering, nothing stands out...

Top one boulder probs, abroad
L'Atelier, Guichot. The one worthwhile tick from my April Font trip

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Daytona Wall, Cows Mouth Quarry. Really very good.
Ginny Greenteeth, Hawkcliffe. Glad I didn't try and onsight this green-fest. Excellent and undergraded.
Forgotten Wall, Almscliffe. Eliminate, squeezed in, arbitrary but I placed gear and was belayed like a proper trad route, hopefully a sign of things to come...

Top one sport routes UK
Mhoddy Dhoo, Trollers. OK it's a bit of a link-up but first sport 8 and FA so memorable.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Inbetweeners, Bradda Sport, Isle of Man. Amazing situation, exciting climbing, a bit of loose rock (but not too much), a great adventure. A Manx/Hall interpretation of sport climbing, further details here
Elios, Forada. Goes on forever, really not my style, splendid.
Starman, Forada. Fun fun fun.

Top one new route/prob put up
Can't think of anything apart from Mhoddy Dhoo, can it go in twice?

Top Spankings
Sport climbing still feels hard to me, but it is coming albeit slowly.