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Aims for 2012 (Read 69900 times)

chris j

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#150 Re: Aims for 2012
December 05, 2012, 03:21:55 am
Hmmm, after this year's poor show (1 from 4), do I carry on with more of the same or change tack?

Let's see...

Sport - more 7b+ (probably The Lynch or Threadbare LH start). A 7c would be a bonus. Check out venues other than Ansteys and Torbryan, maybe Brean Down.

Trad - failed even to get on last year's goals so... lead E3 regularly. Do a couple of E4s. Be brave and lead Call to Arms on Sanctuary Wall. As per sport, climb at more venues - Avon, Cheddar, Wye valley. Take advantage of CC membership and spend more time in Pembroke and Penwith.

Running - 1hr 35min half marathon. Got the Exeter half in mid-Feb so not much time for this.

Not get injured for two years in a row...

I'm not greedy, will be happy with any of the above!

Stunning failure on all counts this year!

Injury goal lasted until 7th Jan when I fell on my head and 'tweaked' lots of soft tissue in my neck and shoulders. Still sorting that one out. Then in my last training run the week before the Exeter half-marathon I managed to do something bad to the back of my knee... Mildly annoying to say the least as I'd put in a 1:36 for the last full length training run before that. Oh, and I've rounded off the year by tweaking a pulley last week.  >:(

Trad - not sure, but I don't think I've been on a trad route this year.  :o

Sport - the one brightish light is that I got on Threadbare a couple of times and can do the top section much more comfortably than last year. Otherwise I might have tied onto a rope on four or five days in the whole year.  :wall:

iain

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#151 Re: Aims for 2012
December 05, 2012, 09:18:57 am
Main climbing goal is to stop pissing about and actually do some projects that I know I can do but haven't actually done.
No idea, I can't remember what I meant by that

Climb somewhere other than Swanage and Portland.
Sort of tick, but not enough variety, only two weeks away from limestone

8a - several, where and what is negotiable
One that's borderline, I can definitely do more. Probably not enough form or time for another before year end

Font 7C, in font. Multiple candidates I've tried but inevitably something that suits me and that is probably soft. I should probably do real 7B+ too.
Abject failure

E4 - do and consolidate. And maybe, just maybe an E5 like Wall of the Worlds or even Lean Machine.
I'll take a big fat tick on the E4's

The most important thing though is to get a good result in the degree and then use the thing to actually find a job, possibly even one I'd like.
interrupted by a dog, attempt two is ongoing


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#152 Re: Aims for 2012
December 05, 2012, 09:52:49 am
1. Get some more 7C's
2. Do some 7C+'s and hopefully an 8A YYFY!
3. Do some more sport outdoors hopefully do 8a outdoors done a bit more sport but not loads tried chimes and should do it next time I make it to the tor
Specific routes
1. FUCKING ROCKATROCITY!!!! nope not even tried it this year
2. Lou ferrino had a bash and got all the moves
3. Cave problem SS at Raven tor (and hopefully into bashers righthand) not tried it but tried bens roof instead
4. The press and the kneeling start so low starts next
5. Raindogs (although I've never actually been to malham)
Theres probably loads more but I can't really remember

oh and get accepted for my PhD application

csl

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#153 Re: Aims for 2012
December 05, 2012, 06:03:31 pm
After last nights disaster (see NNFN for details) i'll join in with this premature goal reviewing!


Goals -

Climb 7c sport Done

Climbed Comedy, first and only 7c, in 7 times on the route in total. Did this by June and should have done a few more. Came really close to a holiday tick of Vagabond in Ceuse. Had i kept up the regularity of climbing i had in the first half of the year I hope i would have managed to get a couple more done.

Boulder 7a regularly in a session Not done.

Didn't really go bouldering, only 8 days bouldering all year, and 6 of those before april. But did 3 7a's. So not too bad i guess…
 
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good! Done

Smashed this one! Tried an E4 on my second trad day of the year, which kind of broke down the barriers of what i thought i couldn't do - In my half year of actually climbing I managed 4 E4 onsights and 3 flashes. The Axe was a good experience, something i'd been looking at on the cover of the guidebook for years.

Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes. Not done.

Had a pretty bad winter. Not so fussed about this one though. Did my first V so not all bad.


Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur. Done

Didn't actually do one of the listed routes, but what i was after really was the feeling of a real 'alpine' route. Something committing. Did the Gervasutti Pillar - which was epic! In more ways than one.

Go to Ceuse Done

Had two trips to Ceuse in the end. 2 weeks in June, was great with a 7b onsight and coming close to Vagabond.

The second trip was as a terribly unfit Alpine refugee, did some easier stuff i hadn't done earlier in the summer. Also tried Les Collonettes, psyched to try this next time i go.

climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys Not done.

Didn't make it to Anstey's at all.

-mid year goal additions

Onsight E5 Not done.

Did an E5 second go, not bad considering i'd only done a few E2's before this year.

RP 8a unlikely but may as well aim high

Lack of climbing in second half of the year put paid to this.

Some numbers…
132 days climbing indoors and out
185 routes
78 E-points
18 7's

One final goal to see out 2012 - build a board.

Doylo

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#154 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:13:39 pm
Climb 8b+ (Walking Mussel) Tick. epic seige and constant battle with 4 inch section of seepage that is never normally there
Do my two new route projects on NWales lime Fail. Close on one but was only dry for 3 weeks and got wet the day after i grabbed the penultimate hold.  The other is despy and is more of a long termer
Finish off The Brute on the Diamond Fail. Was distracted so didn't have Diamond campaign. Dogged up the route once and it appears i might have missed a few tricks years ago  :wall:
Do lots of boulder problems 7c and above in N wales. Tick. I'm definitely better at bouldering than routes,well of the power endurance variety. 7c is easier than last year
Put some good time in on Liquid Ambar and some links. Fail didn't get on it, preoccupied.
Be able to afford a holiday this year  :'( fail. don't count girlfriend holidays

More fail than tick =boo

Johnny Brown

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#155 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:27:59 pm
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.

The main thing is, you burnt off Nige.

Doylo

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#156 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:29:50 pm
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.

The main thing is, you burnt off Nige.

He keeps banging on about a sore foot or something but i know the truth...

Stubbs

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#157 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:33:56 pm
Getting stronger at bouldering can never mean the year is a fail!

Doylo

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#158 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:39:17 pm
No it wasn't a fail. Just more red than green on that silly list...

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#159 Re: Aims for 2012
December 06, 2012, 12:42:48 pm
6 Month report:
Same as last year but let's hope there's some fucking proper weather yes, actually had enough dry weather up here in spring omgzor :chair:

1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual sort of ish, have improved a bit and have more determination, terrible motivation and dvts still make it hard tho.

2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness sort of, have got some good climbing partners, but still not really a general activity scene..

3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) yes, Gibraltar, was nice and early April (Pfalz? Annot?) no, super-syked for Pfalz but didn't make it, will try for late summer / autumn.

4. Week long trip to Lewis no, but is the main goal for the next 3 months, several days sea-cliffing in Skye YYFY, finally got some great routes done, long weekend in Ardnamurchan yes, nice enough.

5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis yes, did some cool new stuff, Torridon/Reiff nowhere near, Skye yes, only one problem but brilliant, Carrock Fell YYFY, great day in great conditions, Queen's Crag yes, even tho just a punter day, Shaftoe sort of but still loads to do, Rothley tried, too cold, Simonside nope.

6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back no....taken ages to get back up to normal standard, might be too long to get enough fitness to push further

7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall sort of ish....have tried but it's just plain hard, longer climbing trips are much more beneficial.

8. Lose 1 stone via the above lost 4 pounds maybe, mostly due to a good spring climbing rather than fitness stuff, not sure how much more I can do but will keep trying.

Sounds so simple on paper. All appendages crossed.  :fishing:

A typically very mixed bag but actually with some successes and some progress, I hope I can make it continue.




12 month report:

1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual. - still trying

2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness. - still trying, have kept in touch with some good partners, local trad/travelling scene still minimal and non-existent over winter

3. Get to Pfalz and maybe Sweden later in summer. - NO :( very definitely a top priority for next year but got two weeks in Morocco booked over NYE :)

4. Week long trip to Lewis - no - never coordinated plans with my keen mate, will organise with someone else next year, long weekend on Orkney - no, day trips to Glen Nevis - no and Creag Dubh - yes but still so much to do there, weekends Gairloch / Reiff / Aberdeen etc. - yes, had a few good trips

5. Do some cool boulder problems when it's cold enough at: Torridon - yes, didn't do harder stuff but did some cool lines, Reiff In The Woods - yes, Brin, Glen Ogle, Loch Lomond, etc. - not yet but got nuff syke

6. Maintain current trad standards and try to push myself on various routes that inspire me. - yes, kept up a decent pace and did some great challenges at Caithness, Aberdeen, and Cornwall

7. Keep fit with regular days out climbing, and going gym, pool, and wall. - not bad, have kept reasonably active, got into weights a bit too

8. Lose 10 pounds via the above. - not a fucking hope, am saving for liposuction

9. Look after my injured elbow and encourage it to heal by eccentrics and being careful with bouldering / training. - have generally kept it okay and not worsened the injury and it's been fine on trad but have fucked an A2 pulley and got tweaky shoulders, what a wreck

10. Keep doing suitable training e.g. stamina training and falling practise, to maintain confidence. - done a bit, have upped the falling practise as my body is too fucked to do any other training

Basically trad - good, some bouldering - good, trips away - very mixed, physicality - very mixed, injuries - bad. WHATFUCKINGEVER.

Andy F

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#160 Re: Aims for 2012
December 08, 2012, 08:59:28 am
Sport 8b - The Ripper/The Oak
Nowhere near. only going out on the string 6 times during the worst summer ever may be a factor...
Boulder 7B+, or at least put some effort into something. For once.
Smashed. And gone beyond. Finally  try at this bouldering lark and finally succeed  ;D

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#161 Re: Aims for 2012
December 30, 2012, 05:54:37 pm
Waited for as long as possible as I thought the elusive 7b RP might be on.  Close but no cigar.

Overall, this has not been a great year for my climbing but it has ended well with a very enjoyable trip to Tenerife.  The climbing was OK, the ambience mostly unremarkable (Teide national park is a lovely exception), but the company good and the weather fabulous every day for two weeks. I think I’ve had more hours of sunshine than in the preceding 3 months!

Maintain 9 out of 12 months active climbing.

Failed by the start of April!  A succession of slightly random things mostly not related to climbing like a sprained ankle, torn calf and succession of viruses.   Elbows and shoulders have been pretty good which is a success.

A couple of things from the Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free thread.

Two trips to Verdon and one to Switzerland were blighted by poor weather.  I’m claiming all the SW Hard Rock routes in a day as an accumulative version.  It was certainly the most memorable day this year.

Take sport climbing a little more seriously and get up something harder than my hardest onsight (ie a 7b or 7b+).

Flashed a 7a+ (but at Cheddar so doesn’t really count) and got within millimeters of onsighting another last week.  Had a play on Want Out at Portland which definitely counts and should be on for 2013.  I have a lot to learn about redpointing tactics.

Similarly bouldering at 6C/V5.

Great day at Dunby and great trip to Font. Despite not aiming to ‘perform’, managed one 6b (6c in some guides). 

Most of the above is a means to an end, which is to onsight E5.

Not even close.  One measly E3 (Soul Sacrifice, which was not at all measly and probably Pembroke E4).  I blame the weather and the closure of the CC hut at Pembroke for most of the year [/excuses]
 

leeroy

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#162 Re: Aims for 2012
December 30, 2012, 07:57:20 pm
a proper e8 on grit (potds doesnt count after the varian-pasquill intervention
a couple but only headpunts.
boulder more font 7c's on grit (and lime, maybe)
few more done.
sport 8a/+ (chimes or something foreign, again big maybe)
sort of. one 8a, must try harder.

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#163 Re: Aims for 2012
December 30, 2012, 09:17:21 pm
general goals
  • boulder 8a
  • boulder 7c+but so damn close on so many things...
  • boulder 7c (its gonna be a good year)highlight definitely doing supernova in magic wood, such an epic...
  • a 7c in font would be outstanding but not mandatoryoverly ambitious at the time, but flashing bleau's art was really cool
  • 1-4-7 on the smalls consistently as opposed once a blue mooncan consistently touch the rung both hands, but then again i have stopped campusing since the april or so this year...
  • get a beastmaker and actually use itdone and bettered; a board has been built



of my specific goals none have really worked out apart from doing the yorkshireman the other week which was well cool.

im blaming this:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2012/dec/30/rainy-year-end-2012[/list]

Richie Crouch

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#164 Re: Aims for 2012
December 30, 2012, 10:17:56 pm
1. Louis Armstrong int' cave - FAIL. Tried a couple times back in March or April, didn't go back to cave all year!
2. Finish big 4 in Font - FAIL. Didn't go to Rempart this year.
3. Get to Magic Wood and destroy Body Count, NES pt1, Electric Boogie -
HALF FAIL. Did Voigas and Left Hand of Darkness instead. Still not tried Electric Boogie!
4. Get no more points/speeding/parking tickets! - SUCCESS. If I can avoid being a dickhead tomorrow!
5. Climb something harder than 7C on grit - FAIL. Not even tried to! Got out a couple of times and pottered about.
6. Do some structured training instead of just relying on slowly getting better at climbing - HALF FAIL. Did fuck all most of the year then after getting fed up of the weather and wasted fuel, I Started 2 weeks ago on a structured training plan aimed at peaking for Late March/early April when it may have stopped raining???
7. Win the UKB FF! - SUCCESS. Made up to end Ian's stranglehold on the league. Not looking too rosy for retaining it!

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#165 Re: Aims for 2012
December 31, 2012, 10:31:38 am
General Stuff
Sports:
Onsight a 6c - Yup after dropping a few on last move did one in north wales
do more than 1 7a or harder did 3 including one in a day drop a couple of others on the last move repeatedly
Bouldering:
6C or harder did my 6C project at holmfirth done

Trad:
More multipitch this year Yup did a few in the end
solid E1 onsight I did not fall off an E1 on lead this year
Onsight E3 did not climb any trad harder than E1

Specific Stuff
Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style did not try
Pebble Wall fail never really got close or had a proper session on it
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march soft 7a but ticked
Get in loads of mileage in my Font trip loads done great trip
enter a bouldering compentered several in the end
Visit the slate quarries more than once went once other planed trips were wash outs

Something I did not put down but was on my goals was to have a photo of me climbing in a guide book. A picture of me climbing looking shit scared at wilderness rocks in the over the moors guide.

all in all a great year

Nibile

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#166 Re: Aims for 2012
December 31, 2012, 12:25:12 pm
general:
- stay injury free - YES LUCKILY
- train properly - YES
- get really strong - NOT REALLY STRONG BUT YES THE STRONGEST I'VE EVER BEEN
- climb more at new places - AHAH EPIC FAIL I BARELY LEFT HOME
- keep this fucking faith despite everything - YES
specific:
- top out my project - NOPE
- Font 8b away from home - NOPE, DIDN'T EVEN TRY ONE
- sport 8c - NOPE, DIDN'T EVEN TRY ONE
non climbing:
- become a better teacher - I SHOULD ASK MY STUDENTS
- enjoy teaching even more - YES AND NO ESP. RECENTLY
- the rest I can't tell...

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#167 Re: Aims for 2012
December 31, 2012, 12:33:13 pm
Quote
boulder 7a everywhere.
boulder higher than 7a on the grit.
E3 routes.
A few routes on the gritlist.
Spend time on the lime doing sport. (7b)
Unless going to Windy Ledge, dont even consider going to stoney middleton, i cant have my blossoming love affair with limestone ruined by stoney showing me what it eventually becomes.....

All done apart from the sport one.
This years aims are much tougher (Unrealistic..)  :whistle:

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#168 Re: Aims for 2012
January 01, 2013, 10:50:42 pm
Grades-wise the same as last year: Trad E2, Sport 7a, Boulder 7a. I reckon I have a very good chance of meeting or even exceeding the trad and sport ones and bouldering should be feasible too if I put the effort in.

Did one sport 7a and worked many others and quite a few 7a+s too. Onsighted 6c+ in the Red which hopefully bodes well for 2013.

I didn't even try an E2 and haven't been trad climbing since September. Poor show really: just didn't push myself on trad.   :wank:

I was dead set to do a 7A on grit this winter but have ended up climbing outside a pathetic 4 times since returning from the US in October. Hopefully the weather will one day improve and I'll get my projects done. On the plus side I did a number of 6C+s on lime in the summer and didn't feel far off 7A. My PB in 2011 was 6B+ so this is good improvement!  ;D

Find less punterish, more psyched, more reliable partners.

Climbed with loads more people this year, all of whom fit at least one of these categories.

Move to Sheffield or other location with similar proximity of rock and population of climbers. Unlikely considering the current job market and the fact I have a good job right where I live now but would be ace and make the above aims easy.

Still living "a stone's throw from the Peak" though, but it feels like a long way this time of year when conditions are variable (to say the least)...
 
Stretch every day and keep a training diary in order to maintain recent levels of training psyche without injury.

Maintained these for 80% of the year and felt the benefits big time, but then both slipped by the wayside and I felt the lack of benefits just as much! Back on them now.

At least one foreign trip and as many domestic ones as possible.

Would have liked to do a few more domestic ones but went to my dream international destination so pleased with progress this.

Despite what my grade target progress looks like, I really feel like 2012 was a good year for my climbing.

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#169 Re: Aims for 2012
January 01, 2013, 11:27:21 pm
1. Climb 8a+ in England Overnight Sensation, GBH
2. Climb 8b in England Totally Free 2, Predator
3. Climb two 8b s one power endurance based and one stamina based hmmm, depends if I can blag Predator as Power endurance...
4. Onsight 8a Pren Nota in Siurana
5. Boulder 7C+ (before Bojan, and dynos don't count) Underhand Super Extension (not before Bojan :( )
6. Boulder 7C on the Lime nope... :(
7. Go trad climbing more - yep
8. Onsight some more E6s including some long ones. Lord of the Flies, Rainbow of Recalcitrance, The Great Flake, a few in Pembroke

Get on: The Medium, The Quarryman groove (if you don't try you'll never know...), The Black Bean (Ceuse), Psycho, Skinhead Moonstomp and Ghost Train got on the Medium, Psycho and Ghost Train...

Get Back on: Silk and Spring Voyage Turns out Silk is really hard though...

Go to: Cloggy fail

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#170 Re: Aims for 2012
January 01, 2013, 11:49:26 pm
Go G, this year the SYKE will be high. Strangely you forgot your trad and sport targets :shrug:

Might as well do some for me:
1) Carry on climbing despite arrival of child number two on Boxing Day (likely) YES YES YES
2) Sport 8b+ (possible) NO NO NO I'd like to blame the weather, so I will (but it's not the only reason...)
3) A decent glob of trad E5+, not all on grit, not all single pitch! (possible time allowing...) YES YES YES A good start to the trasd year and then... the bastard weather
4) Stick to my training....  (I've never managed this in the past) Hmmmmm
5) To allow me to go big towards the end of summer. (pie in the sky) NO NO NO

These are definitely in order of increasing unlikeliness...

For the first time in years I have no bouldering aspirations.

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#171 Re: Aims for 2012
January 02, 2013, 12:24:23 pm
Conditions in the Peak is crap atm, above all this year I hope for good weather to allow me to get out as much as possible.

The next step for me seems like quite a big one, I hope these goals are realised:

V10 On Grit
V10 On Lime
At least one hard grit route
Improve on 2011's total of 3 routes on the lime! Bagging my first 8a would be ideal

Maintain my periodised training at the wall and home, further develop beastly finger strength and hone sic power endurance in time for summers lime crushing plans.

Trips:
Northumberland
Berry Head
Font

Happy crushing all, best of luck for 2012... BRING IT ON  :boxing:

Well, the weather never really came, I didnt even attempt a V10 but I did complete my training without missing any sessions and im stronger for it. Made it to Northumberland but not Berry Head or Font :(

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#172 Re: Aims for 2012
January 02, 2013, 04:23:56 pm
Simply, my project. More broadly, try to realise potential with a job that can afford me the money and time to do this.

Though it's occupied my mind daily, it's been a tough year with various things going on in the background. During a glimpse of opportunity, I incurred a bad back injury that took several months to go.

Thankfully, the second part of the bigger picture has been a tick and working around the corner from work and a brilliant wall has paved the way for getting serious. Very confident that the next few months will bring a good window of opportunity.

Best wishes to you all with your respective goals.

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#174 Re: Aims for 2012
January 02, 2013, 10:28:20 pm
Grades-wise the same as last year: Trad E2, Sport 7a, Boulder 7a. I reckon I have a very good chance of meeting or even exceeding the trad and sport ones and bouldering should be feasible too if I put the effort in.

Did one sport 7a and worked many others and quite a few 7a+s too. Onsighted 6c+ in the Red which hopefully bodes well for 2013.

I didn't even try an E2 and haven't been trad climbing since September. Poor show really: just didn't push myself on trad.   :wank:

I was dead set to do a 7A on grit this winter but have ended up climbing outside a pathetic 4 times since returning from the US in October. Hopefully the weather will one day improve and I'll get my projects done. On the plus side I did a number of 6C+s on lime in the summer and didn't feel far off 7A. My PB in 2011 was 6B+ so this is good improvement!  ;D

Find less punterish, more psyched, more reliable partners.

Climbed with loads more people this year, all of whom fit at least one of these categories.

Move to Sheffield or other location with similar proximity of rock and population of climbers. Unlikely considering the current job market and the fact I have a good job right where I live now but would be ace and make the above aims easy.

Still living "a stone's throw from the Peak" though, but it feels like a long way this time of year when conditions are variable (to say the least)...
 
Stretch every day and keep a training diary in order to maintain recent levels of training psyche without injury.

Maintained these for 80% of the year and felt the benefits big time, but then both slipped by the wayside and I felt the lack of benefits just as much! Back on them now.

At least one foreign trip and as many domestic ones as possible.

Would have liked to do a few more domestic ones but went to my dream international destination so pleased with progress this.

Despite what my grade target progress looks like, I really feel like 2012 was a good year for my climbing.

Bloody hell Cheque - if you're ticking Font 6c+ on lime then a Font 7a on grit is a formality surely?

Can think of a few suitable Peak classics from my past ticklist that would fit the bill...drop me a PM if you want me to send you a few candidates!



 

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