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Aims for 2012 (Read 70294 times)

leeroy

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#125 Re: Aims for 2012
May 17, 2012, 03:55:32 pm
Quote
a proper e8 on grit (potds doesnt count after the varian-pasquill intervention  ) End of the affair done. E9 next winter.
boulder more font 7c's on grit (and lime, maybe) Few 7cs on Grit hopefully lime one very soon, if not today.
sport 8a/+ (chimes or something foreign, again big maybe) Little plum full version should go soonish


account_inactive

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#126 Re: Aims for 2012
May 17, 2012, 08:22:41 pm
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch


These are highly unlikely

slackline

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#127 Re: Aims for 2012
May 18, 2012, 09:04:25 am
Isn't the custom to put in green what has been achieved?


csl

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#128 Re: Aims for 2012
June 21, 2012, 09:02:32 am
Goals -

Climb 7C sport Done
Boulder 7a regularly in a session - Not really, have done a few 7a's, but not really been bouldering.
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good! Done - The Axe was amazing!
Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes. Not done, shit winter really
Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur Alps trip planned, psyched for at least 2 of these!
Go to Ceuse Done - mixed trip, got a 7b onsight but nothing harder - should have gone for longer
climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys

-mid year goal additions

Onsight E5
RP 8a unlikely but may as well aim high

Doylo

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#129 Re: Aims for 2012
June 22, 2012, 12:28:46 pm
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch


Might as well put: 'discover a cure for cancer'

Fiend

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#130 Re: Aims for 2012
June 22, 2012, 12:51:16 pm
Quote
Same as last year but let's hope there's some fucking proper weather yes, actually had enough dry weather up here in spring omgzor :chair:

1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual sort of ish, have improved a bit and have more determination, terrible motivation and dvts still make it hard tho.

2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness sort of, have got some good climbing partners, but still not really a general activity scene..

3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) yes, Gibraltar, was nice and early April (Pfalz? Annot?) no, super-syked for Pfalz but didn't make it, will try for late summer / autumn.

4. Week long trip to Lewis no, but is the main goal for the next 3 months, several days sea-cliffing in Skye YYFY, finally got some great routes done, long weekend in Ardnamurchan yes, nice enough.

5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis yes, did some cool new stuff, Torridon/Reiff nowhere near, Skye yes, only one problem but brilliant, Carrock Fell YYFY, great day in great conditions, Queen's Crag yes, even tho just a punter day, Shaftoe sort of but still loads to do, Rothley tried, too cold, Simonside nope.

6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back no....taken ages to get back up to normal standard, might be too long to get enough fitness to push further

7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall sort of ish....have tried but it's just plain hard, longer climbing trips are much more beneficial.

8. Lose 1 stone via the above lost 4 pounds maybe, mostly due to a good spring climbing rather than fitness stuff, not sure how much more I can do but will keep trying.

Sounds so simple on paper. All appendages crossed.  :fishing:

A typically very mixed bag but actually with some successes and some progress, I hope I can make it continue.

Actually, more accurate edited version:

1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual.

2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness.

3. Get to Pfalz and maybe Sweden later in summer.

4. Week long trip to Lewis, long weekend on Orkney, day trips to Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh, weekends Gairloch / Reiff / Aberdeen etc.

5. Do some cool boulder problems when it's cold enough at: Torridon, Reiff In The Woods, Brin, Glen Ogle, Loch Lomond, etc.

6. Maintain current trad standards and try to push myself on various routes that inspire me.

7. Keep fit with regular days out climbing, and going gym, pool, and wall.

8. Lose 10 pounds via the above.

9. Look after my injured elbow and encourage it to heal by eccentrics and being careful with bouldering / training.

10. Keep doing suitable training e.g. stamina training and falling practise, to maintain confidence.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2012, 01:00:55 pm by Fiend »

rodma

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#131 Re: Aims for 2012
June 22, 2012, 01:40:47 pm
I know this may be cheating doing a list now, but I only decided on my goals a couple of months back

  • Do 10 8a's or above without visiting Dumby
have managed to make a pretty good start on this and have thus far resisted the (incredibly minor) urge to visit the black anston stones
  • Do 1 8b or above (have my heart set on Pierre Philosophale, but I'll have to wait and see)
Close on one in UK, but not as close as i would like, will have to find something else, or wait until Font later in the year. Probably a pipedream.
  • Get out on rock more (a prerequesite of the above) and explore new (to me) venues
Been out loads this year, but only to a new venue twice, must try harder.
[/list]



Muenchener

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#132 Re: Aims for 2012
August 20, 2012, 02:29:54 pm
Mid Year Review

Focus on areas/experiences rather than chasing numbers.

   Frankenjura as regularly as possible twice so far, hopefully more opportunities in the autumn

And any two one of the following:
  • Dolomites again. Yes, and it was brilliant, strong contender for my Best Climbing Trip Ever
  • Oberreintal looks great: planned trip last June fell victim to weather & illness ... as did the one two weeks ago (only weather this time, so the trend is upwards)
  • Swiss/Italian alpine granite: Handegg, Salbit, Mello ... not yet
  • Welsh trad nostalgia trip ... Munich DAV North Wales Expedition 2013 is in the planning stages
Two big away trips per year is not realistic with work & family. But the Dolomites were great so I am happy

But also: 6c yes, albeit probably soft, 6C Autumn Bouldering Campaign starts in September

Grade-wise I feel somewhat plateau'd. I have done a lot more 6bs than I did last year, but my onsight rate on them is still below 50% and anything harder is still a rarity, even at the wall. This is what comes of not focusing on chasing numbers

Paul B

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#133 Re: Aims for 2012
August 20, 2012, 02:49:37 pm
  • Do 1 8b or above (have my heart set on Pierre Philosophale, but I'll have to wait and see)
Have you tried it? It's not exactly the best (despite how it looks with Godoffe on it), painful crack style crimps with startlingly little for feet followed by an all out move to a massive jug (Roughling skipped a lot of the hard climbing by flying between holds I believe).[/list]

Hoseyb

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#134 Re: Aims for 2012
December 03, 2012, 09:45:02 pm


 :boxing: The Beast
I have at least got to a point where I can start throwing myself at it, spring probably

Other than that, stop looking for new stuff and enjoy some classics.
failing upwards at  the Gravestones, and a cloggy trip so Tick! Still been prospecting tho... :whistle:

All, of course providing there is any time left over after enjoying spending  time with my kids
probably managed about 12 days climbing out this year, but Logan (4) can now ride his pedal bike and Ethan and Dylan (2)  can now both rockover...



Wil

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#135 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 12:41:17 pm

Onsight E5 on different rock types and onsight E4 consistently. (I prefer having routes to inspire me though Mortlock's Arete, The Golden Mile, Bloody Sunday, Great Wall, Supersonic, Calvary and Cardiac Arete are on the list). Ticked a lot of classics and had a good year, but didn't get a chance to get on the harder things I wanted.
Do a really big and reasonably hard rock route somewhere, possibly Dolomites, e.g something on the Marmolada or the Comici Route. Don Quixote on the Marmolada, would like to up the ante next year with something technically harder, but we had a great trip and were inside guidebook times which is encouraging
Don't piss about going to crap venues! Have been held ransom at Horseshoe a couple of times, but otherwise successful.
I'm not too fussed on sport goals for next year, onsight F7b would be good and tick some classics, and I really should get to Yorkshire finally. 2 of them second go in Chorro. Haven't onsighted much in the UK, but ticked several F7b+ and a F7c while not really concentrating on sport climbing, so quite happy with that.

abarro81

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#136 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 01:03:56 pm
May as well join in since I've done my bouldering ones and I wont be going sport climbing again before the end of the year:

50 8s onsight/flash (all time) Nope. Too focused on redpointing on my trips away to manage much onsight volume
8a onsight in the UK Didn't try any
5 or more 8a+ onsights (all time) As for the first failure

Fabelita Too easy
Mecca Extension and again
Kaabah
True North never been near it in a dry state
8c in France or USA (depending on summer trip) trivial
20 8b (all time)
12 8b+ (all time)

8A that’s actually a boulder
8A+
Staminaband reverse


Additional:
8c+

Lots of red there, but I'm actually really pleased with my year. Exceeded my expectations redpointing by doing quite a few 8cs and my first 8c+ (before Stu  :tease:); however there was a bit of a lack of onsight volume on trips as a result of this. A lack of redpoint mileage in the UK guaranteed failure on a couple of goals, but since that was mainly due to finger injuries and weather it was somewhat out of my hands.
My most successful but most injured year yet. Fingers crossed next year will keep up the success with less time spent nursing injuries!

SA Chris

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#137 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 01:10:34 pm
Keeping mine simple

1) Traverse Project No 1 - the boulder problem. Will resume attempts once seeping stops in spring.

2) Traverse project No 2 - the sea level traverse. Will resume attempts when a rising tide, daylight, a week of dry weather, calm seas, warmer seas, non-greasiness and me being fit enough to do it coincide. This didn't happen last year or the year before :(

Well traverse project no 1 went down last night!!!!!!! After getting fucked over by minging wet holds wednesday before last, I had a eureka moment and I went down on Tuesday morning with a length of hosepipe and siphoned the pools out which feed the seeping sections, and amazingly it worked! So stoked to have done it, but it might not be as hard as I initially thought, as I then set up video and did it again 20 mins later.

And I never got a look in with no 2. It dried out late in the summer and was probably climbable for about a week, but never got a windown in the tides and a stupid enough partent to join me in the quest. Oh well, next year!

nai

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#138 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 01:37:23 pm
Unless a miracle happens and the Tor dries I'm all-in for the year too

font 7C - many candidates  managed Famous Grouse sitter
F8a - actually going to train for it this year. Maxed out at 7c+
onsight 7a/+ consistently. did a few 7as I think but hardly did any OSing
E4 - Resurrection and Flaky Wall still ultimate aims did an E4 but not the main goals
decent size/difficulty/remoteness mountain route. didn't go anywhere near any mountains

Think I did ok considering the disruption to training early in the year (building work meant I lost all home facilities for three months), the weather and the number of missed days on a rope due to late partner dropouts.  Still think I could have got it if I'd been a bit more shrewd tactically but not too disappointed, I've added a grade to my best sport, trad and bouldering efforts and as long as I learn from this year I'm fairly confident it'll go early next year.

GCW

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#139 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 02:43:05 pm
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project  Didn't climb much this year, and didn't go to a soggy red Wall.
2. Boulder 7c  Nope.
3. Get a house that I can build a woody in  yup.
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it  Spent most of the time getting the said house watertight, so this is a rollover to 2013.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists  Didn't go near any of them.
6. Run a marathon  Yup, and I hated it so much I've entered the Rivington 26 fell marathon.
7. Go to Font  Next year.
8. Do at least ten Munros and ten Wainwrights  no Munros, but done 42 Wainwrights this year.
9. Stop drinking and get fit  ha ha ha ha!
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100  Seven so far, but Ullysses took an age to read.

lukeyboy

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#140 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:08:29 pm
Think it might be realistic to include 2 of the 3 lifetime goals this year (exciting!!!) - sport 8a & onsight E5 (font 8a is a way off still...)

So close... did a 7c+ slab 3rd go which I was really happy with. Fell off the very last (easy) move of my 8a project in October, NNFN. Not been dry since. Not done a lot of trad though climbed E4 early in the year


Would be over the moon if these go down.

Also would like to:

- Climb on grit more Maybe once?
- Get to pembroke more often Yes, went a few times and loved it
- Get to Berry Head and finish off Rainbow Bridge No DWS this year
- Successfully slay elbow tendonitis in the next month ahead of Font in Feb Yes, elbows ok
- Crush in Font No, but mainly weather related. 2 short trips in feb & Oct, 1 dry day. Though that went quite well, did the Joker and came close on Aerodynamite
- Boulder 7B or harder at some point in the year Nope
- Train power Have actually worked a lot more on PE this year, so no

A few on the wishlist:

Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, vector, german schoolgirl, arms race, swan, elegy

Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, sulky little boys


Strayed from the goals but not too bad overall... as good as can be expected with this years shitty weather

shark

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#141 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:38:42 pm
Unlike Andy I'm setting the bar high as usual so I can consistently disappoint myself. Reach for the stars and get kicked in the nuts. Story of my life. The struggle, the frustaration, the setbacks... love it

The Oak (no surprises there)
Tor 8a project ("Unzipped"). Also at the Tor Anger Management / Rage
10,000 8a nu points and 8a in a day
Decent one arm hang or even a pull-up (if golfers goes away) on a first joint edge
Reproduction and Mad Max at High Tor
Something long and classic in Yorkshire (choice of 4)
Attempt Fun de Chichunne at Kalymnos onsight (and downgrade it if sucessful, obviously)

Got my Tor project and hung a first joint edge. Overall a frustrating year climbing-wise. 


Three Nine

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#142 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:49:54 pm
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch


Failed on both  :'(  all bitches hate me

andy_e

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#143 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:50:42 pm
Were you looking for other poodles or are you into cross-breeding?

slackline

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#144 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:52:28 pm

Doylo

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#145 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 03:58:25 pm
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch


Failed on both  :'(  all bitches hate me

Aim for 2013 - get sparky laid  :goodidea:

tommytwotone

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#146 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 04:00:51 pm
So much for setting goals eh?

A few carried over from 2011 and a couple of new ones for me...

Climbing:

Finish off my "tick Almscliff up to 6c+ in the last Yorkshire Bouldering Guide" mission by Easter - nope, still a way off

Climb a minimum of 3 Font 7as in Font at end of March - nope, it was boiling, did do one (soft touch) though
Climb a Font 7b anywhere - nope, did a 7a+ though
Do Breakfast at Burbage West (long-term nemesis) - YYFY!!
Go to Ilkley (to my shame I'm still yet to go there since I moved to Yorkshire) - been a couple of times, nothing significant done though
Go to Wales and boulder in The Pass / Porth Ysgo - nope
Get one of my photos published in a guidebook - not yet, working to get one in the Yorkshire Gritstone Vol II
Get a photo of me published in a guidebook - as above, I was in Climber though!

Non-climbing:

Continue non / minimal drinking mission I started in early Dec 2011 - hmmm, kinda

Manage balance between lovely but non-climbing girlfriend and achieving climbing ambitions above - definitely
Continue saving for house deposit and hopefully become a homeowner at some point - getting there, hopefully in 2013

Updated for me too...though I have got a couple of weeks to rush about and try to knock off that Font 7b yet!

Dr T

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#147 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 08:18:28 pm
General Sport

 Maintain a sensible/progressive strength progression regime ish.
 Look after the back and elbows screwed up my fingers though  :(
 Improve stamina - might prove difficult

Bouldering

 Keep chipping slowly away at the grade progression ish - getting outside more would help..

Travel - Put in a good show in...

 Font a clutch of 7b/7b+'s
 Cornwall - conditions sucked and to be honest I was enjoying skimboarding and building sandcastles with Jr T more
 Lake District - didn't make it....
 Peak - doing T-Crack despite having a broken finger was a plus..

Non-climbing

 Carry on being the best Dad I can be think I'm doing ok - only time will tell but Jr T still says we're best friends so so far so good..  ;D
 Keep smiling through the rest of it...

Duma

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#148 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 08:43:17 pm
get out more, justify van etc. When uninjured have manged a few trips.

get finger fully healed and avoid new injuries. Having basically spent 8 months either climbing on an injured wrist, completely off climbing, or slowly rehabbing wrist, I think this is a definite fail

Lowrider Not been on it, but lot's of other good grit stuff in the spring

Jungle VIP tried this in May, is possible but need to get stronger on that RH crimp, and wrist was fucked at the time

Symbiose just back from font, wasn't really in shape for this sort of difficulty after all summer off with injuries

I Comme Irun see above

James Malloch

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#149 Re: Aims for 2012
December 04, 2012, 10:20:49 pm
Boulder 7a.

Yes on UKC grade, no on actual grade - Marks Roof LH

Onsight 7a Sport.

No, but ticked my first with Rose Conorary at Malham

Get on Peak Limestone now I have a car.

Yup

Do some training.

Yes, with emphasis on the word some...

Avoid Gritstone trad where possible!

Pretty much nailed this apart from the odd second, but that's basically sport anyway...

 

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