[shark]

11st 7-8

Week 6 of 16 of programme

Weight 11.6-8

M. Day Big rock rings sess. Progress.
T.  Day Weights. Progress.  Eve. Foundry with kids. Quick play on Wave but busy.  Attempted AnCap on 40deg board but no go so quit.
W.
T.  Eve. Oak AnCap. Not done this sess for a few weeks. Hard to get going - put heater in shed. Good links. Got a 4th set in for first time though faded a bit. So 4 x 10movesx3 = 120moves. Noticeable finger strength gains 
F. Day. Big rock rings sess followed by pull-up core sess. Eve. Good gathering of Old Farts club at Rising Sun 
S. Bit hungover. PM Shed AeroCap 480moves. Eve Mince pies and sloe gin at Obi-wans's 
S. PM Foundry. Bouldered with Ben on Wave. Nice session.

Good week. Delighted with the way finger strength is coming along. Almost kept weight under 11.8 but not quite

[fried]

Monday - Tuesday - Off work and in bed with some stomach bug.
Wednesday - Thursday - At work, but not much appetite.

Friday - indoor session, pretty O.K, considering I've lost about a kilo this week (or maybe that's the reason). Quick 5C/6As. Though I was going to jump straight from 6A to  6C but apparently the last move is the crux or it's just over-graded.
Saturday - House moving for friends plus first raclette of the winter.

Sunday - Good indoor session although some elbow tendon problems. Still fall off the top of the 6C.

Weight 74.5kg

[tomtom]

Mon nothing. 3pints
Tues nothing. Red wine and 2 pints
Wed nothing. Red wine and 2 pints
Thurs nothing. Long drive...
Fri. Work Xmas do.. x^y pints...
Sat. Did Saturday happen?
Sunday. Yeeeeeeeeeeeferkinghaaaaaaa back on the rock at da Cliff. T5 photoshoot with tommyztone and Nai.. Despite having not climbed or trained for c.20 days, managed to rpt DWR, multiple repeats of dreamland for the camera (I got pumped!) and eventually repeated the crux on underhand.

I am now sat having a cheeky glass of red wine in full on middle age denial kidding myself that I've still got it

[tommytwotone]

STG: tick The Cliff in the new guide up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt.
T - Very enjoyable board session, took a while to get going but got loads done in the end.
W - Depot session on new Yellows (V7 and up). Did 2, which is more that I usually manage of them!
T - Nowt.
F - Put up the Xmas tree.
S - Cliff with Nai, Grubes and Cofe trying to get my list of outstanding problems. Did a good few including Syrett's Roof, the 6c+ thing on the back of Matt's Roof, Teaspoon Variaton and the usual showing off on Pebble Wall.
S - Back to the Cliff, this time with T2 and Nai . Got sidetracked from list ticking by being asked to session some of the classics for a forthcoming mag feature...look at me indeed. Posed on numerous class problems and then couldn't do Sloper Patrol as I was too goosed!

An excellent week, really feel I'm getting a boost from not drinking / resultant focus on quality sessions. 18 problems remain on the Cliff ticklist but now I'm away until approx. New Year's Eve...it'll be a big ask to get them done on the last day of 2011!

[nai]

Posed on numerous class problems and then couldn't do Sloper Patrol as I was too goosed!

Luckily that's not a class problem 

[tomtom]

Posed on numerous class problems and then couldn't do Sloper Patrol as I was too goosed!

Luckily that's not a class problem 

I bet your sloper patrol pics will be in - the light was superb... he liked yours on Syretts Nai...

[nai]

M - Secret Garden hoping forelornely that Dick Williams would be dry.  It wasn't of course so spent an hour doing the few dry problems.
twth nowt
F - quick Tor session, fell off last move of Basher's a few times before sacking it to preserve skin
S - Almscliffe, bit of a circuit with ttt, grubes and cofe. did a couple of new things and opened account with Underhand.
S - Cliff again, with 5T this time, another couple of new things and progress on Underhand, know I can do it now, just need weather that doesn't turn my toes to blocks of ice in a matter of seconds.

Week didn't quite go according to plan with Thursday and Friday all but wiped out by the weather, but a couple of most enjoyable days out over the weekend made up for it.  Christmas really is coming at the wrong time just as I'm hitting a vein of form. Hey ho, cheers everybody

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T:  rings session @ home: pressups, rows, weighted pullups. Was contemplating buying rock rings - inspired by shark's recent diary entries - but instead I think I've figured out how to rig a beastmaker without leaving visible screw holes in the beam where I hang my rings, so that might be the new year's DIY project instead
W:
T:
F: indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen quick session prior to pre-Christmas beers with mates 
S: rings session @ home: pressups, rows, weighted pullups
S: swimming with son followed by Christmas market; ticked presents for wife and niece yyfy can relax now.

[Oldmanmatt]

STG Super Trooper (Saddle Tor).
LTG F8a

Monday, ... 3hrs at the Quay; boulder probs V6-7 and 1hr on 45* +campus.
Tues, ...... Bugger!
Wed, ... Planned Sesh at Quay, ended up Xmas shopping. Damn!
Thurs, ... Uh? Rest day?
Fri, .... Yehaa! The Quay, eve session 2 1/2 hrs of working problems +campus on the systems board (and being used as gymnasium by my daughter).
Sat, ... Decorating tree and house, bloody good shoulder and core exercise; honest.
Sun, ... 3hrs chest, shoulders and core + 4 sets of 10 weighted (6kg) pull ups on fingerboard. Added the Turkish get ups in.... Only 10kg... Ow!

Can't remember what a real rock looks like.

Or the the Sun...

[wsmith]

M - Bouldering comp at Northampton.
T - Shit session at Warwick on some new problems.
W -  Core, assisted 1 arm locks and pulls, antagonist.
T - Fingerboard repeaters
F - Went to the tor, spent most of the time working Bens roof. Tried cave problem and did perverse reverse.
S- Board session, isolated hard moves and hard problems to start. Then ancap - 2 sets of 4 tries on the 20 move circuit. Good progress since last week but I imagine that is just from learning foot beta.
S - Got fat eating Christmas meal.

Meant to be doing more endurance stuff at the moment but power training seems much more beneficial to me so ill stick with that for now.

[duncan]

M - 20 x V2-V4 Anaerobic capacity; short run
T - 40 mins (5 x 8mins) Aerobic capicity.
W - short run
T - Another anaerobic cap. session but tweaked L wrist doing an awkward hold-around-an-arete problem.  Bother
F -
S - short run, lots of playing with the lad (Turkish get-ups with 13kg to you)
S - much the same

Poor show tweaking wrist; not sure how bad it is at the moment, but not a bad time to talk some time off.

[Luthor]

STG     - do some new boulder problems / train
MTG     - F8a sport
_______________________________________________

Mon     - Couple of problems on Comp wall @ Works
Tue     - Board sess @ Works plus some bouldering later
Wed     - Rest
Thurs   - Rest
Fri     - Comp Wall probs @ Works
Sat     - 5km ish run in morning. Raven tor pm. Surprisingly dry but cold!!!
Sun     - Rest

[Fultonius]

Been slacking a bit recently! 

Weight: 77.3kg (desperately trying to avoid the old Christmas pie baby!)

Mon: Nowt
Tuesday: Easy session at TCA - still trying to nurse an odd finger tweak back to full health, so concentrating on movement and footwork.
Wed: Nowt.
Thurs: Quick TCA session before heading up to mt parents en-route to go winter climbing.
Fri: Ice treatment, massage and gentle exercise for my tweaked fingers (AKA winter climbing in Coire an Lochain)
Sat: Skiing at Glenshee
Sun: Bouldering at the Loch Katrine boulders. Managed a Font 3+,  6A, 6A+ (VERY green and slimy), 6B+, 6C (about 5th go, but shoulda flashed it!) and a 6C+. All really nice problems, good friction where it wasn't green or verglassed  - will go back there I think!  (Don't think it got about about -2c all day...)

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C/+ (9 done)
5 x 7A (5 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B (one 7A+ done)

M: BM: left arm only assisted max hangs, theraband, front lever and planche progressions
T: BM: assisted one arm pull-ups (left arm only) and front 2 max hangs, theraband, front lever and planche progressions
W: Xmas meal
T: Recovery
F: rest
S; Bouldering at RHS and Cratcliffe
S: working

Another poor week as expected. Saturday started poorly with rain/snow and failing to repeat a 6B but ended with almost doing the 7A+ left hand version of the cave at RHS. Managed to get the foot-lock beta sorted, just couldn't finish as the large lip sloper was a bit damp. Should go next time.

I wont be posting for the next couple of weeks as I'll be in Scotland, visiting family. Hopefully I'll get some easy winter stuff done and a bit of running.

[Three Nine]

STG Super Trooper (Saddle Tor).
LTG F8a

are you for real? Super Trooper is SO SO much harder than any french 8a sport routes in that part of the world! 

[Oldmanmatt]

Yep, but that was Font 8a; I was just being lazy in the typing...
I kinda hit a V7 wall. I can usually tick a V7 eventually, but can't get off the ground at V8.
Deliberately chose a highball, to mess with my head (sorry, that should be "train" my head).
It's annoying that around here they use the V grades...
Having lived on the other side of the channel (well, outside the UK, basically) most of the last 20 years, I tend to think of sport grades as just (ie) 8a and F8a as a font grade.

[rich d]

My meagre offering from last week
Mon pull ups and short fingerboard session. Followed by some core
Tues core
Wed nothing
Thursday bit of core
Friday pull ups and core
Saturday family christmas thing
Sunday looked wet and couldn't convince wifey it was worth trying peak - so drank lager/wine and generally snapped at wife and kids.

[Three Nine]

Yep, but that was Font 8a; I was just being lazy in the typing...
I kinda hit a V7 wall. I can usually tick a V7 eventually, but can't get off the ground at V8.
Deliberately chose a highball, to mess with my head (sorry, that should be "train" my head).
It's annoying that around here they use the V grades...
Having lived on the other side of the channel (well, outside the UK, basically) most of the last 20 years, I tend to think of sport grades as just (ie) 8a and F8a as a font grade.

oh, I see! well you chose a stinker at v8 there...

[Oldmanmatt]

I know, started working it about 4 weeks back; half hearted.
Decided to wait for the rain to stop and my big mat to return from Spain ( hopefully in my mates car and on it's way), coz I feel I need more than one...
Looks like I might be indoors for a month or so, hence the crack about "real rock".

[Duncan Disorderly]

M-W: Spannered finger - Rest.
T: Routes up to 6b+ at the edge - Finger held up ok.
F-S: Nowt
S: Bouldering @ Stanage - Too nice to not climb, did some easy problems then walked from Stanage to Fox House (carrying 4 year old at times) to meet missus.

Steady away... Just keeping on doing a bit while recovering from dodgy finger. Will do the same this week and try and fit in a run or 2. Hopefully will sort itself out in time for starting the new program after Xmas...

:D

[webbo]

M.Bouldering Rockcity struggling a bit.
T. Nothing.
W. weights.
Th. Nothing.
F. Weights and max hangs.
S.Turbo 6 x 5 min on 1 min off.
Su. Leeds wal to meet a mate over from France.Repeated most of the stuff I did last visit,managed another red v6.

Not a bad week back seems to holding up.

[tomtom]

Have you had a peek at the new bouldering bit (that I assume isnt open yet) Webbo? Does it look any good?

[Three Nine]

11st 7-8

Week 6 of 16 of programme

Weight 11.6-8

M. Day Big rock rings sess. Progress.
T.  Day Weights. Progress.  Eve. Foundry with kids. Quick play on Wave but busy.  Attempted AnCap on 40deg board but no go so quit.
W.
T.  Eve. Oak AnCap. Not done this sess for a few weeks. Hard to get going - put heater in shed. Good links. Got a 4th set in for first time though faded a bit. So 4 x 10movesx3 = 120moves. Noticeable finger strength gains 
F. Day. Big rock rings sess followed by pull-up core sess. Eve. Good gathering of Old Farts club at Rising Sun 
S. Bit hungover. PM Shed AeroCap 480moves. Eve Mince pies and sloe gin at Obi-wans's 
S. PM Foundry. Bouldered with Ben on Wave. Nice session.

Good week. Delighted with the way finger strength is coming along. Almost kept weight under 11.8 but not quite

I feel I need to quote an anonymous reader of this post yesterday evening: 'rock rings?! weights?! What a homo!' Salutary perhaps?

[webbo]

Have you had a peek at the new bouldering bit (that I assume isn't open yet) Webbo? Does it look any good?

I have had several conducted tours and its looking good.Official opening jan 14th, Zippy was setting yesterday.Just needs the mats,which are going down next week. 

[shark]

I feel I need to quote an anonymous reader of this post yesterday evening: 'rock rings?! weights?! What a homo!' Salutary perhaps?

Dont care if it was Alex, Bob or Chris but a regime change will be effected if it was Tash.

[Three Nine]

I feel I need to quote an anonymous reader of this post yesterday evening: 'rock rings?! weights?! What a homo!' Salutary perhaps?

Dont care if it was Alex, Bob or Chris but a regime change will be effected if it was Tash.

  it was the Pooch...








...maybe

[iain]

M: max hangs
T: rp hangs
W: nothing
T: bouldering at reading, good intensity and volume, fun
F: buggered, nothing
S: rest
S: finished off Nightmare Scenario without too much drama, then wasn't feeling psyched enough to open an account on anything else so enjoyed climbing on stuff I'd already done.

Had planned to start training properly this week but a combination of several months of being in good shape, little motivation, and a couple of aborted attempts at fingerboarding have suggested it's time to have a short break.

However, the training program is written (at least the outline is) and I will start in a week or two.

[205Chris]

Another couple of missed posts from me. Psyche generally low. Think I've forgotten what it's like to climb outside. On the plus side my annual membership to the works is paying off big time.

In general: Lots of indoor bouldering, finally managed to get out last Sunday to Curbar. Taking it easy this week in the hope of getting out over the Christmas break.

[csl]

First timer but defo gonna need some motivation to keep training over christmas!

Goals - Steady at E3, 7a onsights, V5 and winter V

Monday - Leeds wall - attempted a PE session while knackered from the weekend in scotland - 4x4s on V3-V5 - felt pretty dead!
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Plantation, tried green traverse - got it in two halves, could possibly do it next time. Then got disillusioned, wondered around a bit and then nearly (retro)flashed Steep Traverse, got it third go in the end, had tried before briefly in march but couldn't do some of the moves. First V5 on grit.
Thursday - Lakes Winter - soloed a couple of 3s
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Nothing

[tomtom]

Hello csl... Welcome