[comPiler]

From the furnace into the freezer...
10 October 2011, 10:46 am

Last weekend's short evening bouldering session whet my appetite and reminded me how nice it can be to simplify climbing to its purest form sometimes. No ropes, no gear, no belaying, no faff, no stress! So with the promise of cooler temperatures up in the Pyrenees yet again we returned to Cavallers this weekend. Friday night saw yet another serious accident on the N240 Reus - Lleida road in EXACTLY the same place as last Friday. Last week it was a car that managed to end up on its roof and this Friday a full head-on collision. Is it just coincidence that it happens at the junction where the group of prostitutes wait for business - people rubber necking - or is it a bad junction? Either way, it's the third serious accident we've seen on that same stretch of road in the last six times of driving it. Why are the Spanish such terrible and impatient drivers?!

We arrived at Cavallers on Friday evening to snow showers, and Saturday morning they continued. We'd hoped it'd be cooler up there, but not snowing!! Thankfully, a few cups of tea and some porridge later the sun came out and it warmed up to pretty ideal bouldering conditions. Cool and with good friction but not too hot in the sun. And it remained that way for the rest of the weekend :-) We did loads of amazing problems - most of which I have no idea of the name or grade - but it was just nice to explore the valley and climb whatever looked good, until skin and muscles couldn't take any more - a bit like the first time I went to Font!

Here's a selection of some of the highlights:-

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Recent snowfall on the tops and a bitterly cold wind...[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]...nice easy wall...[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]...very good highball arete with a tricky start...[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][the highball arete climbed on its right-hand side][/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]...nice problem down by the river...grade unknown...[/td][/tr]

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'Golden Gay' - cool traverse given font 7b+ in some videos and 7a+ in others - more like 6c+!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash happy to have topped out - really nice sit-start on right arete[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash getting harassed by the horses while trying to boulder! They liked nibbling the mat![/td][/tr]

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Really aesthetic slopey arete problem in the meadow? - given font 7a+/b in one video.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Very satisfying latching the final slopey boss hold[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]...more unknown problems...[/td][/tr]

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Fun 6c dyno from awkward crouch-start?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The highlight of the weekend was this amazing steep nose/prow hidden among the scree above the road. 'X men' - given font 7a+[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]...a great way to top off a fantastic weekend![/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

The force is returning...hopefully!
14 October 2011, 7:54 am

We've been out a few times this week and I'm actually starting to feel some kind of climbing ability returning...albeit quite slowly!

We had a well-deserved holiday this Wednesday ;-) and for a change of scenery decided to head down to Pinell de Brai for some morning shade there. I'd originally planned to return to the cave sector - the main event here - but when we arrived there were some guys climbing at sector Al.la and the routes they were on looked really good so we got a bit sidetracked and didn't actually make it up to the cave in the end. After warming up on some 6b's and a couple of awesome 7a+'s, I then managed to onsight a really bouldery 7b+. This is my first 'difficult' route since getting back to Spain and it felt nice to be able to pull reasonably hard again. I guess it must have been soft if I managed to get up it first go, but I was pretty happy with that all the same! I followed it up with a superb 6c+ up at Parvulari Strep sector - although the crux on that was avoiding the crack where a bat was hiding from the sun! Never seen one so close up before - cute little guy he was.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Bat in the crack![/td][/tr]

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Today (Thursday) we went up to Siurana and returned to El Pati. This is one sector where I've spent A LOT of time, and I've pretty much climbed everything of any worth up to 8b+ there. The one route I hadn't been on before was a 7c just right of Viagraman, so I had planned to project this today. After warming up on Viagraman though I thought 'why not' and tried for the onsight. It was thin and technical, and I got totally wrong-handed on the crux but somehow managed to get up it by the skin of my teeth. Another surprising onsight success!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Magaluf action
18 October 2011, 9:40 am

This weekend we were over in Margalef to meet up with Dave?, Paul & Sarah who are out on a van trip here in Catalunya.

Saturday, still looking for shade, we went to Finestra and after warming up I managed to finish off an old project - 'Morphos' (F7c+). I'd been on this a few times before but always at the end of the day when I was tired so I'd never had enough beans to finish it off. Today it felt like a formality, which was nice! Buoyed up by this tick I decided to put another route to bed. 'Deja vu', again 7c+, was another route I'd been on and come close to but never finished. Luckily today was the day, so now I'm one more route down at Finestra.

Meantime, Paul ticked off one of the superb 7b's on the left-hand side too easily so I sandbagged him on a 7a+ to set him back a bit! The hard bit was at the bottom but his bad technique meant he also found the top quite stiff too. Dunno what he was messing about at! Dave impressively sketched his way up a slabby 7a+ at the end of the day, having sat in his pink chair eating all day. Maybe that's the way to climb hard! ;-)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Fat Dave shaking his way up 'Coraje al Forao' (F7a+) at Finestra, Margalef.[/td][/tr]

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On Sunday we started off at Culample 4, where some new stuff has appeared in the guide since the last time we were there. After warming up on some new 7a's - one good and one not so - the crowds turned up and it was like Crewe station, with every route being climbed or queued for! So we abandoned ship and headed across the valley to Can Dit Gros. I did a brilliant 7c+ ('Bona minyona') second go. Despite having quite a sustained sequence on small pockets and edges it felt easier than the ones I did yesterday, so maybe only 7c? I don't know. Either way a good route.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Man on 'Bona minyona' (F7c+) at Can Dit Gros, Margalef.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Checking out the Laboratory routes.[/td][/tr]

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Monday morning we warmed up at Can Verdures, and then I had yet another play on 'Esau directa' (8a+) over at Cova Soleiada. This route I've been trying on and off for the last few years but always forget the best sequence and find it desperate even when I do work out what to do! Today was no different and putting the draws in felt hard enough, with sore skin and not helped by the ridiculous humidity, so I sacked it off.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Parasiempre allargada
19 October 2011, 12:21 pm

Not very exciting, but today we went back to Mont-roig. I managed the extension to Parasiempre. The guide gives it Font 7C but it can't possibly be this? - it maybe adds a grade or so onto the original problem so 7B/+ ish. It's been so long since I've bouldered on any confirmed problems in more established areas so I honestly have no idea. Whatever grade, it's a great problem. I'm just pleased to feel some progress from a few weeks ago when I was struggling on the original 7a+ start.



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

A new Pati project...
20 October 2011, 2:03 pm

As per the title, we went up to El Pati in Siurana today to meet Dave and Javier. Tash was considering projecting the other good 7a here (Ay Mamiti) so I agreed to try and get a ?project there so we could both work them at the same time. As I've now done pretty much every route at El Pati (8b+ and down anyway) there was limited choice! But I had my eye on an 8b called 'Pati pa mi'. So after warming up putting the draws in Ay Mamiti for Tash, I went up my route bolt to bolt. It was pretty baltic and my fingers and toes didn't really warm up the whole way, but with the help of Dave's clip stick I managed to get up it and did all the moves first go. It turned out to be way easier than I'd expected with good rests both before and after the short crux section so it seems like a goer! New project for Ali...psyched!!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave trying his hardest to blend in with the rock on 'El Prado del Rey' (F7b+) at El Pati.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Worth the gamble!
23 October 2011, 6:06 pm

After originally planning to go up north this weekend, the Friday forecast didn't inspire confidence so we left it until Saturday morning to make the final decision. The forecasts were still predicting a little rain here on Saturday? afternoon and a lot more on Sunday, but significantly less rain over in Margalef. And with tips still a little tender from Thursday's crimpy session Margalef was the more appealing option climbing-wise so that was decision made. In the end it was sunny the whole weekend and the rain didn't materialise until we were driving back this afternoon and Siurana was hidden in a cloud of ming - good decision!

Saturday we went to Ca la Marta and conditions were perfect in the shade - shorts and T-shirt for climbing and down jacket for belaying. Plus we had the crag pretty much to ourselves the whole day :-)After warming up on some nice little 6b's on the right-hand side I put the draws in the project for the day - 'Twist as Lola' (8a). I'd been on this once before last April but the day I tried it the tufa was wet and it was ridiculously humid so I didn't even bother with a redpoint. Today it felt like a completely different route and after the bouldery crux at the bottom it was just a steady tick. So with that done sooner than expected I finished off the day with a few 7a & 7b onsights. Tash pulled out all the stops on her final go of the day and managed a really short and bouldery 7a - good effort! We celebrated with a nice cup of black tea (I forgot to bring any milk!).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The reservoir and pic-nic pontoon back in April with Ca la Marta crag in the background (note the water level!)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The pontoon left high and dry this weekend![/td][/tr]

[/table]?Sunday breakfast wasn't as appetising as usual - cereal with water instead of milk (not recommended) and a cup of black tea! Thankfully the climbing was a bit more succesful. Tash wanted to go back to Can dit Gros to lead the 7a she top-roped last weekend so I got on the 7c+ to the right of the one I did last week. It turned out to be just as good, with a hard undercut start on small pockets then good crimps leading to the easier slightly overhanging wall above - done 2nd go! Tash then crushed her route, despite bleeding on all the holds from a sliced finger, and I ticked the final route at this sector - a brand new 7b+. So we don't need to come back here again!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Don't listen to Dave!
25 October 2011, 2:22 pm

After a night and day of heavy rain? yesterday we were all set to head up to Siurana this morning when I got a text from Dave - "Rained a lot last night...still big puddles in car park...no wind at all...will rock be dry?".

Anywhere else and I probably wouldn't have bothered driving up, but El Pati being the most unpredictable crag on Earth, where the amount of rain often has no correlation with the dryness and conditions of the crag, we decided to chance it. Plus the forecast for later in the week is atrocious so it may have been the only chance we got...

Warming up on 'Viagraman' it soon became apparent that conditions were absolutely mint. Rock completely dry and no hint of the all too common 'Pati paste', when the humidity condenses down onto the holds, making climbing a pretty unpleasant experience. Today it felt like all the holds had been jet-washed clean and you couldn't fail to climb whatever you wanted! And that's how it happened. After one go up the project to get the draws in I had a rest belaying Tash and then ticked it the next. 'Pati pa mi' (F8b) first redpoint and third go up it. I guess it must be soft at the grade, although everyone on the font of knowledge that is 8a.nu takes 8b for it. It breaks down into maybe a 7c up to a good rest then a hard & runout sequence on small crimps up to an amazing shakeout and finishes with a technical ~7a. It certainly took significantly less effort than 'De aqui a la luna y volver' at L'Aparador so maybe that is 8b after all (what I thought at the time to be honest). Or maybe I'm going much better than back in May? Who knows. What a great route anyway.

The moral of the story: Don't listen to Dave!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Paul setting off on 'Gato lerdo' (F7b+)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Getting into the crux moves on 'Gato lerdo'[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Mont-roig progress finally...
26 October 2011, 12:52 pm

Again, not the most interesting post but I finally made progress on the MUCH harder right-hand version of the prow at Mont-roig. This problem can be started in two separate places but the hard climbing really starts from a big jug about halfway along the prow, so that's where I've been working it from. I worked out all the individual moves and then managed to do it from the jug in two halves. It's going to be hard I think, but the moves are brilliant and despite sharing the same start and finish to Parasiempre it feels like a completely different problem. I'm psyched to go back and try linking it from the start...

Not a great video - more for me to remember the moves?.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Oh, and here's a photo to show how close the bouldering is to home (pink arrow!)[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

CUENCA
2 November 2011, 11:13 am

With an extra day off this weekend, we were quite keen to explore a new crag somewhere a bit further afield. And after seeing some photos of Cuenca in a couple of magazines recently it seemed like an ideal time to check it out...

The climbing?

The overall conclusion was that the climbing was pretty mixed. There's A LOT of rock here, but being one of Spain's oldest climbing areas, some of the easy access sectors have suffered from the worst the early developers could throw at them. Chipped and drilled routes, battered rock due to the amount of traffic, and plenty of sika thrown about to create new routes or try and repair old ones. Add to that the crowds flocking from Madrid, Valencia and Toledo every weekend, and the often lazy and unimaginative nature of most of those climbers, meaning that the closest sectors to the parking spots were a pretty unpleasant place to be at times.

Having said all that, by the end of the weekend we'd discovered some of the less popular crags and found quite a few gems among the mediocrity. And all in all we both had a pretty awesome time climbing-wise and finished the weekend with trashed skin and tired arms.

Highlights for me were:

- 'Tirando de Visa' (7b) at sector Bolo

- 'El golfo' and 'La guarra' (6b+) at sector Alfar - two low grade classics

- 'Capitan Trueno' (7a) at Alfar - photos of this route inspired the trip but a 7am(!) start was needed to actually get on it before the crowds!

- 'Tetas y cerveza' (7b) at Alfar - probably the best route I did the whole weekend. Had a bit of everything and no chipping, drilling or sika in sight!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Early morning mist clearing from the Jucar gorge - home to the majority of the Cuenca climbing.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sector Alfar, above the road and quirky antique shop - about as easy access as it gets![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash on the Cuenca classic - 'La Guarra' (F6c) at sector Alfar. A stunning route.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]One of the inspiring harder routes (to come back for?) - 'Public Enemy' (F8a+/b) at sector Martin Alhaja.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Breakfast by the river after an early morning session to avoid the crowds.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The worst of Cuenca - an entirely manufactured route![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Not a bad set up for a rock house![/td][/tr]

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The city

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site I guess we should have expected it to be pretty, but I don't think we were quite prepared for how beautiful the city is and how stunning the position of the old part, between the two gorges, actually is. We went for a wander round one afternoon after climbing, not really expecting much, and were amazed by the old fortified buildings built into the rock and hanging houses. And another thing that was really striking is how well set up the city seemed for people to get out into the gorges and go walking, cycling, kayaking and climbing along the river. Maybe the addition of the stunning autumn colours in the valleys had something to do with it, but by the end of the weekend we were both really taken with the city and its surroundings. Anyway I'll let the photos speak for themselves...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Autumnal colours along the banks of the river.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Good river for kayaking / canoeing too.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Morning mist in the Jucar gorge.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The old fortified part of the city.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The old town on the hill overlooking the newer part down below.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Colourful houses in Cuenca.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Cuenca's gothic cathedral - facade was rebuilt in 1902 after the old one crumbled.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Puente de San Pablo connecting the old town with the San Pablo convent across the Huecar gorge.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The 15th Century 'Casas Colgadas' - hanging houses over the Huecar gorge.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The hanging houses lit up in the evening.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jucar gorge lit up at night, with the old town on left and new town in the distance.[/td][/tr]

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The conclusion

Living in Catalunya, with probably the highest concentration of world-class sport climbing anywhere on the planet, I think we're a bit spoilt nowadays. And anywhere new that we go is bound to be compared with the likes of Siurana, Margalef, Terradets, Rodellar etc etc. Which is pretty unfair to be honest. I'm really glad we went to Cuenca to check it out, and the climbing definitely grew on me through the weekend. Plus the city itself is something special - well worth a visit in its own right. Would I drive 5 hours away from Catalunya to climb there again?...I'm not so sure.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Wetness and a few Mont-roig sessions...
7 November 2011, 12:36 pm

The weather's been a bit poor since we got back from Cuenca. It's rained? to some degree more or less every day, so I haven't been massively psyched to make the trip over the hill. Saturday we nipped out for a short bouldering session at Mont-roig, when I managed to link the 'Contracorriente' project from the jugs in the middle of the prow to the end (what I was trying in the last video). But I was way too tired to then link it from the true start.

Today we went up again, but after more rain overnight and no wind to dry the rock off some of the crucial slopers on the prow were a bit damp so I couldn't repeat what I did on Saturday, despite some determined and quite painful attempts! I then had a play on 'Virus' (7c), which comes directly out from the back of the cave, but couldn't do the final two moves. Definitely a good one to persevere with, in order to develop some pure power! Then finished off by repeating the Parasiempre extension, which I was quite pleased with as it felt pretty steady. A sure sign of some progress...hopefully!

The forecast shows an improvement in the weather this week so looks like we'll be out again soon...

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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500th belay from Tash!
11 November 2011, 9:40 am

Not exactly true? as there'll be loads of climbs I haven't recorded, but according to my logbook on UKC it was our 500th climb together this Tuesday. And what with her birthday on Saturday it'll have to be a double celebration. Or not!

Anyway the route in question was 'Twin Turbo' (7c) at L'Aparador in Siurana. I tried this over a month ago as one of my first routes after the long summer break but couldn't even do the crux moves. Today, after warming up, I tried it putting the draws in but fell from the final hard move through the crux. I wasn't surprised at failing but was quite pleased at how much easier it felt than last time. Anyway I lowered to the ground and did it next go, so ground-up I guess? On the way down I worked a few of the crux moves on the 7c+ next door but lost a lot of skin in the process, but that's ready for a redpoint next time we go up there.

We checked out the neighbouring crags of La Covassa and La Capella afterwards, where there's been a load of development since the new guide was published, especially at Covassa. A new sector seems to have been discovered on the right-hand side, following some gardening and ivy removal, which looks very good. No grades or names known so a trip to the campsite bar is required.

Yesterday (Thursday), we returned to Mont-roig for a bouldering session to try and top up the power levels. I was keen to have a go at linking the project right from the start, but instead failed to even repeat the link I did last Saturday. I initially thought this problem was impossible, but then made quite fast progress linking the individual moves so thought "it's not too bad after all". Now i'm back to my original thinking. Maybe not impossible but certainly very hard. The 7c grade might be justified for this one. We'll see...

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Hijacked: Team Psyche hit the esoterica!
12 November 2011, 10:28 pm

The original plan for today was to meet Dave, Paul & Sarah up at El Falcó. But having climbed virtually every route on the main face and fearing the weekend crowds I thought I'd treat the visitors to some local esoterica instead ;-)

So we ended up at a different Arbolí sector - Forat del Serratell. This place I'd checked out quite a long time ago but had never actually climbed at. Today was the day.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Energy levels were high; you could just smell the psyche.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A hive of activity. Dave in particular was raving about the place. In fact, he only managed the one route - this crag has that intimidation factor so rare on 15m high cliffs.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Seriously though, the crag was actually much better than first impressions suggested and well worth a day.

Tash here on one of many attempts at the starting moves of a brilliant 6c 'Grüner herbst'.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dutch climber Jorgus van Daamieenan on the highly praised 'Harissa' (7a).[/td][/tr]

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I was on a mission to climb every half-decent route at the crag and succeeded with all the onsights up to 7b - the highlight of these was the above route 'Harissa'. The rock on the two harder routes at the crag (both 7c) didn't lend itself to on-sighting very well, being completely chalkless and very complex with loads of small holds all over the place. After a short-lived on-sight go at one of them (falling off the crux trying to use the obvious-looking two-finger pocket that turned out to be worse than the half-pad mono just next to it that you actually had to pull on!), I managed it 2nd go. I got on the other 7c right at the end of the day when I was tired. This one felt even harder, with loads of quite powerful moves off small painful pockets, sidepulls and crimps. I worked out the sequence but was too tired for a redpoint. Not sure I'd go back to the crag just for this route, but maybe if I'm passing. Good to climb at another new sector though.

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Masboquera crag exploration
13 November 2011, 10:58 pm

After a bit too much birthday wine last night we weren't exactly jumping out of bed to go climbing so opted for a little bit of late afternoon crag exploration down near Masboquera. After passing the vomit-inducing waste water pipe from the village we got down into the dry river bed where, amazingly, we found a few bolted lines.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash at the base of one of the awe-inspiring lines on the way to the main crag.

Yes, it really has been developed. 2 bolts and then the lower-off![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The main objective for the day: the crag near Masboquera that we'd seen on a previous exploratory day.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Up close it was as impressive as I'd thought, with some superb ~30m lines on very good quality rock. Sadly there was only one easy route following a crack line, with a couple of bolts in place at half-height presumably for a belay. Apart from that there was no sign of any development. Unfortunately actually getting onto the decent rock on the RH side looked like it'd be a challenge due to the lower ivy-covered wall up to the ledge - maybe the reason it hasn't been bolted?[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Left-hand side of the wall.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Rock igloo on the road to Masriudoms. Finally got round to checking it out today.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Making the best of the British weather
20 November 2011, 9:20 am

Since the torrential rain all day Monday and Tuesday the weather's been a bit frustrating this week. Forecasts have predicted rain most days which hasn't really ended up coming to anything - I guess that's a good thing?! Nevertheless we've managed to get out, and probably more than usual, as every day it was a case of 'making the most of it before the rain comes'.

Wednesday we stupidly opted for a 'quick drying' crag - La Riba - but underestimated the normally trickling river, which had become a completely impassable raging torrent.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dry crag. Wet river![/td][/tr]

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We salvaged the day after a long detour to end up at La Mussara, which was a little too hot in the sun so shredded my tips on some crimpy wall climbs. Highlight of the day was a superb 7b called 'Noni' - a burly start on rock and features not dissimilar to the middle bit of Malham cove.

Thursday we were up at Siurana, where there were still plenty of wet streaks about. We opted for a new esoteric sector - Grau de la Covassa - up on the Siuranella cliffs. Turned out to be quite good. I had a go up a hard 7c+ there named 'Via del Cugat'. Had a decent redpoint on it but need to go back and finish it off.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Wetness at sector Solarium - route is 'Total Insanity' 8a.[/td][/tr]

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Friday was another morning spent failing on the major project at Mont-roig. I still haven't managed to repeat the link I did a few weeks ago - not sure if this is to do with the dampness there's been every time since or if I'm getting weaker. Hope it's just the former! Anyway I did manage to do something new there - 'Atog allargada', given font 7a+ in the guide but I've learnt not to believe anything written in that! Felt the same as 'Parasiempre' extension so probably 7b/+ ish. Will be good to get to Font again in April to get a feel for how bouldering grades actually work again!

Not a huge amount of new climbing on it but thought I'd record it anyway.?

?Saturday it was supposed to rain again but as per usual it didn't really come to anything and there was even bright sunshine in the morning!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Autumn colours in the Priorat vineyards. Montsant in the background.[/td][/tr]

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Dave, Paul & Sarah were planning to go to Montsant so we headed up to Raco de Missa to meet them. Turns out they only had the old Rockfax guide which has the most inaccurate approach description ever written. So they arrived just as we had to leave at 3pm - in fact, Dave didn't actually get there until we'd left, after a 3hr hike around the hills trying to find the crag! We had a decent day's climbing before the drizzle came, though were both tired from the previous three days. I managed to fill in a few gaps, on-sighting some superb low 7's that I'd overlooked previously.

Anyway, the latest long term forecast shows just a few more days of bad weather then it looks to be finally settling down to what we're more used to at this time of year - cold, crisp blue sky days perfect for crushing in the sun. Fingers crossed it turns out to be accurate...

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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The bad weather breaks...
24 November 2011, 11:38 pm

After a few weeks of ?pretty mixed weather, where we had to make the most of dry days between rain instead of planning rest days for the less sunny days as is more usual here, the weather finally seems to have settled. It reminded me of the many damp days snatched between periods of extended rain that used to frustrate me in the UK, and I didn't like it!

Anyway, the first day out last week, Wednesday, we actually left a perfect sunny Montbrio and drove up the hill and ended up in the lingering mist at Arboli. With it being a shorter day we went to the roadside crags of Can Simiro and Can Mansa. Despite it being in the clag the rock was dry and temperatures were good for climbing - not exactly 'sticky damp', but not bad conditions.

I on-sighted the remaining decent climbs here, including:

A qui ejaculada, deu ajuda 7aEls impresentables (variant) 7b+Poker d'alho 7b+Alambrado sea dios 7b+L'avi 7b+

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Can Simiro in the mist.[/td][/tr]

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Thursday we went up to Siurana and returned to Grau de la Covassa, where the rock elsewhere was a lot drier - as you can see in the photo of Herbolari below - but surprisingly the rock around the cave where we were was quite damp.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sector Herbolari - drier than last week.[/td][/tr]

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After warming up on a good but run out 6b+ I on-sighted a fantastic 7c (Crosta Daurada) and then surprised myself by ticking Via del Cugat (7c+) which I'd been on last week, despite a lot of the 'salty' holds in the roof being very wet. A great route at a nice esoteric sector. [I've since heard from Pete that on this same day there were 28 cars parked at the Fontscaldes parking areas - where you access the popular crags like El Pati, Primavera, Siuranella etc from - and we were the only ones climbing at our sector!]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Grau de la Covassa - well worth a visit! Both these routes are amazing. [/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Cogullons
28 November 2011, 1:33 pm

One place that we've been meaning to go for a long time is the remotest place described in the old Costa Daurada guide - Cogullons, and in particular the Mola Roquerola crag. Although it turned out not to be as remote as they made out, being only a steep 45min walk from Farena village, the description of it as 'beautiful bulging white, pocketed waves of bullet hard limestone perched on a convenient raised ledge system...with magnificent views' was very true!

With a perfect forecast for the weekend we arranged to meet Pete up there and also decided to pack the tent and some food and stay up for a few days.

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Looking up to the crag from Farena village.[/td][/tr]

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On arrival at the crag it was hot - amazing at the end of November that I was regretting bringing my shorts to the crag! The routes were largely short, powerful, pocket pulling affairs of a similar style to Margalef but without the chalk to guide you! Consequently some of the onsights felt quite stiff. The crag was amazing though, and deserves far more recognition and traffic than it gets. Given that from January - June climbing here is bird banned and then from June - October it's too hot to climb, leaving only two viable months for climbing, it's amazing that it was so quiet. Especially when Siurana, Margalef and the like are often horrendously busy these days.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash on 'Situaditis' (F6b)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Roella Blanca' (F7c)

Best route of the weekend and one of the best I've done in a long time, with some pretty unique jug hauling on the upper wall.

Worth a visit to the crag just for this one route![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The amazingly juggy upper wall of 'Roella Blanca' (7c)[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view looking out from Mola Roquerola.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash enjoying the last of the evening sunshine.[/td][/tr]

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Tash underneath the incredible wall with 'Tonica per tutti' (7b) and Roella Blanca (7c) - some of the longest routes at the crag and a slightly different style to the rest. Beautiful light - shame there was no-one else at the crag climbing.

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunrise from the crag - not a bad start to the day![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]One of the old dwellings along the base of the crag. [/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Convenience camping - belay from the tent?[/td][/tr]

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Sunday was a more productive day climbing-wise, with slightly cooler temperatures thanks to a nice breeze. We were on the go virtually non-stop from 10am - 4pm, before sore fingers and tired arms made us call it a day.

I managed on-sights of:

Nefertiti 6c

Mandinga bolinga 7a

Cagada rock 7b

Bondage 7b+

and redpoints of:

Tonica per tutti 7b (which I blew the onsight of the day before)

Penitenciagite 7c+

All of which were superb. Added to 'Roella Blanca' (7c) and 'Matute' (7a) from the previous day it was a fairly productive weekend and nice to get a few decent pics of me climbing for a change - thanks Pete!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The incredible wave of perfect pocketed rock with the routes 'Bondage' (7b+) and 'Penitenciagite' (7c+) on.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunday there were actually other people climbing at the crag!

Here on the steep, powerful start of 'Cagada rock' (7b).[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Paella mixta' (7c)[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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A bit of history at La Riba
29 November 2011, 10:19 pm



After our failed attempt to climb at La Riba last week due to the water level we made it across today!

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sector Xina[/td][/tr]

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?We went to a new sector? up above the main cliff (sector Xina), where most of the harder routes are concentrated. This sector is particularly interesting as it was home to a few of the very first climbing competitions in 1988-9 when the likes of Jerry Moffatt, Simon Nadin, Ron Kauk et al competed. Some of the old legends! By the sounds of it the comps were held partly on the rock, where a few routes were manufactured for use, and partly on artificial walls. So many of the harder routes here have some chipped and drilled holds to remove obvious cruxes and create more continuously sustained routes. Despite the abuse of the rock the routes were actually really good, and it was quite interesting to think about the history of the place and the people who had been on these routes so long ago.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Photo from the 1988 competition! ©mrjonathanr from ukbouldering.com

This climber is on the route 'Jocs de llit' (F7c), one of the ones I did today.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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"Lost" sector at Mont-ral
1 December 2011, 10:57 pm

?Today we ventured to one of the slightly more esoteric sectors of Mont-ral - Paret del Grevol. Tucked away in a narrow corridor behind one of the most classic sunny sectors, and accessed by a few 'via ferrata' rungs, it seemed like a bit of a lost crag - but one which I'd walked past many times before but never noticed. Which is amazing given that a lot of the routes were up to 40m in length!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The corridor with the imposing Paret del Grevol sector on the right and Per Dins on the left.

A bit of a dingy belay spot, but once on the routes it was all forgotten! Slightly 'dusty' feeling on the lower half and definitely needs more traffic but the rock quality was just brilliant.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'La potencia de l'eunuc' (6c+) - my warm up for today and a total classic on amazing rock (40m long!).

Check the 'old-skool' stripey vest and leggings! Photo from the guide.[/td][/tr]

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After the warm-up I managed to on-sight the route I'd come here to try - L'insubmis (7c+). The low crux involved pulling on some tiny tiny credit card skin-shredding edges through a bulge, and once I'd done that first go I sure as hell wasn't going to repeat it, so I fought on to the top! But 35m of thin and technical climbing with a few decent rests thrown in does not equal speedy climbing so Tash had to endure over an hour of belaying down in the darkness! ;-)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]L'insubmis (F7c+) at Paret del Grevol, Mont-ral.

Again, photo from the guide and check the short shorts![/td][/tr]

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I finished off with a few easier on-sights - 'Crisol' (7a+) and 'Acebicidio' (7a), and the day was done. Definitely psyched for a return here in the near future, as I spotted plenty of other good routes and sectors in the vicinity.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part I: El Libro
3 December 2011, 8:24 pm

This week's Montsant marathon began with some low level cloud and a very murky start down in Cornudella. True to form, though, after the walk-in we ended up in bright sunshine looking down on a spectacular sea of cloud in the valley below.





The destination for today was 'El Libro' - a huge open book corner, and one of the most striking and recognisable features along the Montsant range as you drive on the road between Cornudella and Morera far below. This crag has to be among the least frequented of all the Montsant crags, due to its long approach (1hr) and more complicated access, but it is also without doubt THE most spectacularly positioned of them all!



 

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Most of the routes start from this very narrow ledge system bisecting the enormous plumb vertical walls of "the book", with a huge drop almost straight down to the road a looong way down - exposure guaranteed![/td][/tr]

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We started on the right-hand side of the crag, where the routes start from 'relative' terra firma. I say relative because you're still stepping off a ledge hundreds of metres above the valley floor, but the ledge is significantly wider here than further round! I did a 6b+ and 7b here before moving round to the left-hand side where the ledge narrows.

The routes were, on the whole, very good quality. If they were at Raco de Missa or another more classic sector they'd be chalked, clean, and incredibly popular. But as it is, with the more involved approach I wouldn't be surprised if they'd seen only a handful of ascents. And, like with Cogullons last weekend, with it being bird banned for half the year and summer too hot there's only a very short window when it's possible to climb here. As a result the routes felt very 'new', with some scrittly rock and lots of dust/dirt that gets washed down in places from above, giving the rock its characteristic grey and brown streaked appearance.

I had to clean a superb 7a+ crack line (El gordinflon) as I went, including a bit of gardening where the grass had grown back towards the top - right where the crux was! On the way down I cleaned up some holds on a 7c to the right (very much needed!), tick-marked a few holds and tried a few of the moves. After Tash had top-roped the 7a+ I managed to tick my route first go. Another absolute classic on perfect rock. It just needs some more traffic to keep it clean!!!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'La listilla' (F7c) - El Libro, Montsant.

Not exactly a 'redpoint' but I can't claim the onsight either...then again who cares when the climbing & positions are as good as this![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Scrambling over the block on the way out from the crag.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The end of a good Montsant day![/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part II: Barrots & Carrasclet
4 December 2011, 8:21 pm

The second instalment in the Montsant ?Marathon was another beautiful sunny day split between Barrots and Carrasclet. We met up with Pete & Àngels, as Pete was keen to get a few crag shots with people actually in them!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash on 'Per amor a l'art' (6a+) at Carrasclets.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'El monstruo del Arbo-ness L3' (7a) - not bad positions![/td][/tr]

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I then got back on an 8a at Carrasclets that I'd tried last November called 'Ciática'. This route is so different from most routes at Montsant, with a whole mix of styles and very few pockets, but last time I was on it I just couldn't touch it - this is what I wrote in my logbook:

"A brilliant route, but NOT 8a. Steady start on solid finger locks up the initial crack to a rest. Then 3 bolts worth of climbing which I could barely do any moves of, up to a good pocket. From here fairly steady but nice technical climbing to the top on amazing small flakes & rugosities. Must have lost crucial holds around the crux section (rock scars evident), as this is the first '8a' in about 4 years that I haven't been able to do a move first go on, never mind 10m worth of climbing!"

Today was much more succesful and I managed to work out the moves fairly easily. Not sure if I was just being useless last time or if I'm significantly stronger this year. Either way I had a couple of decent redpoints but frustratingly fell both times on the last of the hard moves on the crux section. From here there's still a lot of climbing to the top but it's more sustained and less cruxy. The second time I managed to pull straight back on and go to the top so hopefully next time it'll go - progress from last year anyway! I have a habit of saying this at the moment, but it's one of the best routes I've ever been on. Really interesting climbing up a truly stunning piece of rock.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part III: Return to El Libro
6 December 2011, 10:51 pm



Today we revisited El Libro. Added to the ever-present exposure of starting from the narrow ledge, today it was blowing a gale so it was even more atmospheric than normal! A little chilly in the wind for belaying but pretty ideal climbing temps.

I started on the right-hand side again and did the only remaining 'easy' route - a 7a crackline ('La bulle') which looked quite dirty from below but actually turned out to be clean, totally solid, and with incredible climbing laybacking the crack all 30m to the top.

After this we moved over to the left again and I put the draws in the 7a+ for Tash to top-rope. My aim for the day was an 8a+ starting from just about the most exposed point of the ledge system and heading straight up the wall above. Given how dusty some of the routes were and how hard the 7c felt the other day I was expecting to find it hard going but, after the thin & crimpy start which took a while to work out, the rest was just fairly steady pulls between good pockets and edges. So, after belaying Tash on her route, I managed to do it next go without too much sketching. It felt in control, but a bit more pumpy and sustained than I'd expected in the top half where it steepens up. 'El sentido de la vida' (8a+) - highly recommended!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Big crag, small climber - me on 'El sentido de la vida' (8a+) at El Libro, Montsant.[/td][/tr]

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I finished off the day with a bit more of a fight by on-sighting a 7b+ on the extreme left side ('El niño). It went up a filthy blue streak with fresh crozzly tufa rock, which obviously takes all the run-off from above, so I was cleaning as I went and groping blindly for hidden pockets, edges etc as all the dirt went in my eyes. The joys of esoteric on-sighting! Again though, cleaned up and it would be a classic.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part IV: Return to Carrasclets
8 December 2011, 10:22 pm

After a bit more posing for photos for Pete at Falconera? sector this morning, he headed off elsewhere and we went up, along the ledges, and back down again to Carrasclets. In contrast to Tuesday there was virtually no breeze today and it was pretty sweaty in the sun. Can't complain too much though when you hear about the snow and gales in the UK!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash enjoying the sunshine on 'Cafe con leche con mas cafe' (6b+) at Falconera.[/td][/tr]

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I then got straight on 'Ciática' and after putting the draws in did it next go. On redpoint the top half felt a lot more sustained than I was expecting and it's definitely droppable well after the crux section where I fell off last weekend. Grade-wise it felt harder than the 8a+ at El Libro from the other day and given my failure on it this time last year it may be more 8a+ than 8a? Either way it's one of Montsant's hidden gems - get to it!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Reaching the sinker pocket at the end of the initial crux section on 'Ciática' (F8a/+?) - still a long way to go though![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The upper pockety wall of 'Ciática' - more what you expect from Montsant.[/td][/tr]

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After ticking the main aim I finished off with a few 7a onsights over at the main Carrasclets Inferior sector in the warm afternoon sunshine. Magic!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part V: El Sobreàtic
10 December 2011, 6:37 pm

Destination for today was yet another new (to me) sector, El Sobreàtic, which is round the corner from Carrasclets Superior. We've been trying to make the effort to get to some of these sectors at the moment, as they're bird banned after xmas. The day started with a typical Montsant cloud inversion but, as ever, we popped out above the murk to a crag bathed in sunshine, and it was pretty hot again!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]El Sobreàtic - perfect overhanging sheet of pockets. Sandbag city though![/td][/tr]

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I'm still struggling to get rid of a lingering cold and woke up this morning feeling like someone had strangled me in the night. On top of that I felt heavy on the warm-up so opted for a day of onsight mileage. It would have been nice to get a bit more mileage in before getting pumped out of my mind though! All the routes were brilliant - classic Montsant - but pretty short, steep and sustained, and either due to my incompetence or lack of any chalk they felt hard! Plus quite a few of them had nasty run-outs to the first bolt. Still, I managed a handful of 7a - 7a+ routes and got incredibly pumped many times before skin was too sore to carry on.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Not bad views out from the crag![/td][/tr]

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Driving back from the crag and struggling to even spot the sector we'd been climbing at just brought home how much rock there is up at Montsant.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]One very small section of Montsant. Spot the red box (the crag we were at today). The routes at this tiny sector are still 25-30m long![/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Montsant Marathon Part VI: Enderrocada
11 December 2011, 7:41 pm

Last time we visited Enderrocada I wasn't sure what state the access track? was in so we had a 1h45 walk to get there! I couldn't face that again, especially with the days quite short now, and the track turned out to be not as bad as expected so it was a mere 30mins of off-roading from the Cartoixa monastery today!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The usual cloud in the valley below Montsant - today we weren't quite high enough to escape :-([/td][/tr]

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Today the cloud rose up from the valley mid morning to engulf us on arrival and we were in and out of it all day. At some points in beautiful sunshine and other times completely surrounded by a cold, damp mist.

My aim for today was an 8a called 'La xurreria'. For anyone who's spent any time in Spain you'll know what churros are - long, thin Spanish style doughnuts normally bought from a trailer in town (a xurreria in Catalan).



So the route is pretty well named given that it's another unique one for Montsant in that it's continuous drainpipe tufas for the whole length. As far as I know, the only tufa routes at Montsant are the three or four at this sector.

Today confirmed what I already knew; I'm not good at climbing pure tufas. Especially 45° overhanging ones! Good to work your weaknesses though.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'La xurreria' (F8a) - Enderrocada, Montsant.[/td][/tr]

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Being only 20m long, this route is short, powerful and felt damn hard! It consists mainly of 3d tufa wrestling, which isn't exactly my forté, but second time up it I managed to find some decent knee bars to allow a few shake-outs, but the crux comes right at the end where the tufa runs out. Here there are two or three moves linking the end of the tufa to a good jug via a few crozzly crimps which feel absolutely desperate, and it took me quite a while to work out a decent sequence. By the time I had though, my skin was thin and I was completely powered out. It's hard to imagine being able to do the moves after all the steep, powerful climbing that comes before. Still, it's an incredible route and there's only one more potential weekend before the crag is bird banned so no prizes for guessing where we'll be next weekend!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Fighting the lurgy at Mont-ral...
13 December 2011, 10:09 pm

Unfortunately the cold lives on. Not the temperatures (it was actually pretty warm today!), but the one inside me and so I woke up feeling like death and was very close to sacking it off. But the sun was shining, and I still can't bear to waste a sunny day! Plus I can't really complain too much, as Pete turned up to meet us looking far worse than I felt! It seems like everyone's got a cold at the moment.

Mont-ral was the plan, but some of the less well travelled sectors down at Lo Maset de Paisan where there's an amazing overhanging knife-edged prow called 'Trinxalaire', as well as some great 6's and low 7's on perfect rock. The prow is one of the most unique and prominent lines I think I've seen on limestone, with great rock and some really strange pockets on the left of the arete. Without these it would be impossible, as the rest of the rock is so smooth and unfeatured - see photo below. Anyway, after putting the draws in and quickly working out the moves I had a redpoint go, but hadn't really warmed up enough so got a bad flash pump and fell. After a bit of a rest belaying Tash on a superb-looking 6c ('L'oru i el moru') I had another go and this time I was better warmed up so managed to finish it off. Despite its short length (only 22m) it's super steep and really pumpy but a fantastic route - well worth a visit to the crag just for this. Having said that, every route I've done here has been good and I finished the day with another quality 7a!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Tash lanking her way up 'L'oru i el moru' (6c) at L'Androna, Mont-ral.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Trinxalaire' (7c+) at Can Tonada, Mont-ral.[/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Xurreria & last orders at Barrots
18 December 2011, 6:25 pm

After a few more rest days than usual this week, to get rid of my lingering ?cold and also grow a bit of skin back, the weekend started with the planned return to L'Enderrocada, but thankfully without the mist this time. My aim for the day was ticked a bit quicker than predicted - done 1st go today, despite getting a bad flash pump after failing to warm up properly yet again (there's a theme developing here!). I was quite surprised at how much easier it felt today though - the beer towel gaffa taped round my leg definitely helped to make the most of the kneebars! 'La Xurreria' (8a) - a great route and worth a visit to the sector just for this!

So with that out of the way I could relax and ticked off a superb 7c (Ácido Galáctico) and 7a+.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Another shot of 'La Xurreria' (8a) at L'Enderrocada[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Raco de Missa area of Montsant on the way back.[/td][/tr]

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Sunday was a lot colder, with a strong breeze and plenty of cloud around, so warming up and staying warm proved a bit challenging - first hot aches of the winter! In hindsight it wasn't the best choice for the conditions but being the last opportunity to go to some of the Montsant bird banned areas we went up to do a combination of Falconera and Barrots Inferior. These are all the routes you walk past on the way up to bigger things off the Barrots Superior ledge, but every single one of them was surprisingly excellent. And thankfully the cloud had disappeared by midday so the afternoon was perfect climbing temps. I onsighted eight routes, including all the decent 7s and a few 6s at the two sectors. Not much to come back for here now, except I did have another gawp at the amazing-looking 'Els intocables' - a 110m 4 pitch 7c+ climbing straight up the middle of the biggest face at Montsant (La Falconera) - maybe next Autumn?

That'll be the last time we climb on the bird banned stuff this year, so I'm looking forward to more Montsant exploration after xmas on the unrestricted stuff. Plenty of rock to go at :-)

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Falconera sector (L), Barrots Inferior (R), and the line of 'Els intocables'. All of which look tiny. I assure you they're not![/td][/tr]

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Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Last climb of the year in Catalunya
20 December 2011, 10:15 pm

Due to the fact that we have loads of stuff to sort out before our trip back to the UK and then to Jordan, today was the last climb in Spain this year. A bit of a shame, as the weather this week is set to continue as it has been for the last month or so now (i.e. mint!). Cold, crisp, and pretty much wall to wall sunshine like it normally is in the run up to Christmas!

We went back to La Riba and sector Xina again, where we were surprised to find some guys already climbing. And then even more surprised when another group turned up mid morning - this place is normally dead!

I made a bit more of an effort to warm up today, by going up the 7a TWICE to get the blood flowing (well, one and a half times to be exact!). I'm sure that's what Dave Mac recommends for a good quality warm-up before onsighting at your limit ;-) Surprisingly this still didn't work, as my fingers turned to ice and stopped functioning about two thirds of the way up the 7c+ 'Durruti column'. I was quite pleased to get well into the crux section and about two moves from the final jugs, before I just couldn't open my hands any more and dropped off. Annoying. Next go it felt  fine, despite having quite cold fingers again. I don't mind failing on an onsight if you read the route badly or just get too pumped to carry on, but to blow it due to frozen fingers or not being warmed up is just stupid. Well, you live and learn I guess (or not in my case!!!)

 

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A guy on the classic 'Vendetta' (7c) at sector Xina.[/td][/tr]

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So the next time we climb will be in desert land in Jordan just after xmas. Hopefully it'll be warm enough to get some decent long routes done...

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Wadi Rum
13 January 2012, 9:44 am

After a fleeting trip back to the UK for Christmas we then headed on to Jordan. 3 trains, 1 tube, 1 plane, 1 bus, and 5 taxi rides later we arrived in Wadi Rum village!The first few days we spent just exploring and climbing within walking distance of the village.

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The mosque from which the 4.45am wake-up call came every morning![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Rum village seen from 'Inferno'.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Inferno' on the Jebel Rum East face towers.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The halfway ledge on 'Inferno'.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The stunning continuous crack line of 'Lionheart'.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Final ab, just before an afternoon shower arrived - the only day of rain on the trip.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Abu Aina bedouin camps.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Lone tree in Rum.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jebel Rum East Face from the campsite.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

After a few days in the village getting used to the sometimes suspect sandstone, we ventured out for our first proper excursion into the desert and away from the squalid village. We decided to walk round to the other side of the Jebel Um Ishrin massif, to attempt 'Jihad/La Guerre Sainte' - a huge multipitch sport route on N Nassrani which seems to be fast becoming a world classic of its type. It turned out to be only 1h30 of fairly flat walking through stunning scenery to get to the base of the route, so not really worth getting a jeep round unless you want to do it the same day.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]"La Guerre Sainte" topo.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Me dumping the gear at the base of the route ready for an early start the next day - big wall![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Convenience camping.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Evening light over the desert.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]7am 1st Jan 2012 - nice way to start the new year on 'La Guerre Sainte'!

The wall was mostly sound rock, and the climbing excellent on big sandstone 'tufas', sidepulls and flakes, but it took a bit of faith sometimes to yard on the holds.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Pitch 5 (F7b) - the first hard one on the route. Excellent crimpy climbing on thin iron plate edges![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Pitch 7 (F6c) - dubbed the "Climb or go home" pitch. Very well named! 6 bolts/threads in ~45m of climbing, most of which were clumped together at the start and end of the pitch giving one HUGE runout in the middle.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The view looking out from high up on the wall!

The route is certainly deserving of its reputation, for the length, positions and quality of climbing and in my opinion the only thing preventing it from surpassing 'Fiesta de los Biceps' as the best multipitch sport route in the world was the rock quality....and the fact that it felt a long way from being a true sport route!!![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]On the way back down. The ab descent was pretty time consuming as it was blowing a gale so we had to coil the ropes and unfurl on each ab to prevent them tangling and snagging on the minefield of crisps and flakes. Because of this we opted to just go to the end of the 'proper' climbing at the top of the headwall and not the summit. A shame, but with the short days and long descent we were pushing it to get down before dark.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Rope faff on the descent![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Safely down and watching the sunrise next day from camp 2.[/td][/tr]

[/table]





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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Luxury accomodation in Rum![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]On the way into Rakabat canyon to explore.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Maze of canyons and corridors through the mountain.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Big place![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Spanish guy on pitch 1 of the classic 'Beauty'.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Obviously wasn't a hard worker! (note shotgun cartridge)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Nabataean ruined temple below Jebel Rum ~ First Century BC[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Our second excursion was to Barrah Canyon, but this time with a jeep.

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?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]On the way to Barrah canyon[/td][/tr]

[/table]





First day we did the route 'Rumeurs de la pluie' up the striking open book corner to the left of Merlin's Wand, which had some fun 3D climbing up the 'offwidth' (which you don't actually offwidth).

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Next day I was keen to get to a summit, so we went up the route 'Ocean Slabs' on Jebel Barrah E summit.[/td][/tr]

[/table]?

?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Merlin's wand' - THE classic route of the area.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]On 'Merlin's Wand' - Surprisingly worth the hype and only 3hrs up and down. Pretty cold in the shade though.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Last camels in Rum...next stop Petra![/td][/tr]

[/table]

After an amazing time in Wadi Rum, we had the obligatory stop in Petra on our way back up north to the airport. Two days of history lessons. Normally I'm not too bothered by things like this, but you can't help being blown away by the scale of this place and the vision to carve whole houses, temples, tombs and monuments out of solid rock. Not to mention the amount of work involved.

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'The Monastery' - second most famous building in Petra and well worth the walk up.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Royal tombs (from L-R the Palace, Corinthian, Silk, and Urn tombs)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Not known as the rose-red city for nothing![/td][/tr]

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?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Palace tomb again[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Pottery at the Urn tomb.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Siq - pretty spectacular entrance to Petra![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Alone at the 'Treasury' - it pays to get up early![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The theatre - seating painstakingly carved out of the rock![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The 'Treasury' facade.[/td][/tr]

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? ?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The 'Street of Facades'[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Amazing rock houses - some with two or three storeys![/td][/tr]

[/table]

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? ?

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]First trip to Jordan over...it won't be the last![/td][/tr]

[/table]?

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[slackline]

  Think I might have to take a trip to Wadi Rum at some point in the next few years, looks stunning.

[ali k]

The climbing is pretty straightforward, maybe 6a-b?, but you would want it to be well below your limit to feel comfortable I think. The wall is quite gripping in general (it feels more like a long alpine route than a true multipitch sport route like Fiesta - every hold needs testing!), and the rock on this "Go home" pitch doesn't lend itself to gear (bolts or otherwise), it being very soft and friable (more so than the rest!). So I wouldn't rely on being able to get anything in between the bolts/thread, at least nothing you'd want to fall or hang on!

Unless you plan to bivi on top, the main limiting factor though is moving fast enough to get down before dark so even if you planned to dog the cruxes you'd want to be able to climb 6b-6c+ quickly. Plus the rock, especially in the middle pitches, is a total minefield of flakes, nobbles, and crisps which are just waiting to snag your ropes on the way down. And the wind picked up when we were descending (our tent blew away!) so I had to coil the ropes at every belay and unfurl on each ab to try and avoid problems with snagging as much as possible, which was a slooow process! We had a few minor snags but nothing too bad but I remember feeling very relieved to get down safely with ropes intact. Then I'm a sport climbing pussy these days!

Amazing route though, and deserves its growing reputation!

[Teaboy]

Jordan! Jeez how many more places am I going to have to add to the Love-to-go-but-unlikely-ever-to-do-so list? Looks ace, are there any other classic multi pitch sport routes of a slightly easier and better bolted nature?

[comPiler]

January round-up
31 January 2012, 10:29 am

After a pretty amazing start to the new year in the deserts of Jordan, the remainder of January has been a bit slow on the climbing front. A combination of lingering colds, lots of things to plan and organise for the coming year, but above all pretty low levels of motivation, has meant a total of only 5 days out climbing this month (compared to 18 days in October last year and 15 in November).

After a bit of time off proper climbing (5 weeks this time - multi-pitch ledge shuffling in Rum doesn't count!) I always find it hard to get back into it. Then when you do go out it's inevitably a pretty humbling experience being weak, heavy and unfit! It's easy to get into a cycle of climbing badly, which reduces motivation levels, so you go out less, then inevitably climb worse the next time, and so on.

Anyway, we've had a few good but fairly chilled days out over the last couple of weeks at Montsant, Masriudoms, Mont-ral, Siurana, and also finally checked out the crags at Vilanova de Prades. The last few days out I've finally seen the psyche returning and I even did a few pull ups at the end of the session today for training!

Plus it's only nine weeks and counting 'til I go to Font at Easter so I better get training....

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Capçanes crag - over the other side of Llaberia, which we checked out a few weeks ago.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Capçanes again - plenty of nice looking tufa routes.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Above Llaberia (the area near Santa Marina)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Vilanova de Prades - main camping area. Worth a day, but not sure I'll be rushing back in a hurry.

I did two decent routes here, which are worth a visit (Cronologia 7a, and Baya de oro 7b). The others were pretty short and distinctly average.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The 'easy classic' of Equinoxe (6b). Photogenic, but neither easy nor very classic![/td][/tr]

[/table]

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

El Cogul
4 February 2012, 8:28 pm

The ?arctic conditions have made their way down as far as us, and with the temperatures predicted not to get above 2-3° we decided bouldering was a better way to keep warm! Driving to the crag it was well below zero but out of the wind and in the sun it was actually quite good temps on the rock. Last time I went to El Cogul (in May of all months!) it was a little on the warm side! Not surprising given that it all faces south. So that time I didn't get much done and didn't explore very far. Today the conditions were ideal and we went to an amazing outlying area, with some very cool and aesthetic boulders. Nothing too hard done, but everything I did do was amazing quality and loads to come back for.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]6b+ in the Els Camps sector[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Another 6b+ in the Els Camps area[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Slopey 6c in El Turonet

The little prow on the left is a really good guppy 6b+ from a sit start[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Brilliant 7a starting from deep under the roof[/td][/tr]

[/table]

You'll have to tilt your head or screen to see, but the highlight of the day was this awesome 7a(?) sit start? via the two eye pockets.

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[Neil F]

Not seen this before.

What a great blog, Ali (the bouldering post notwithstanding...!).

Neil

[comPiler]

Contracorriente allargada...finally!
21 February 2012, 3:15 pm

After still not much climbing recently?, struggling with motivation and feeling weak and all the other excuses I'm able to come up with, I was quite surprised to repeat the second half of my long-term Mont-roig project last week. Probably thanks to the mint conditions, making the slopers feel usable finally, but I still couldn't manage it from the start. So today I went back and succeeded in finishing it off. Quite surprising really, considering I'm not climbing at all well at the moment, so maybe it's not as hard as I'd first thought. Guidebook grade of font 7c, but I have no idea if this is accurate or not. The other grades in Mont-roig are all over the place, so it could be anything really!

Whatever grade, it's an incredible problem. One of the most satisfying I think I've done, in terms of the process from start to finish, the ace line following the prow all the way, and the quality of moves. Mont-roig isn't exactly a destination in its own right, having only a handful of decent problems, but this one and also Parasiempre (font 7a+?) are well worth a day for anyone in the area wanting a break from sport climbing.

Contracorriente allargada (font 7c?)?. Sorry for the swearing Mum!

Here's another video of a great 7a from El Cogul a few weeks ago.



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

February round-up
11 March 2012, 6:23 pm

The climbing still hasn't really kicked off this year, and having just dusted off my tennis racquet and also bought a new mountain bike it looks like it's going to stay on the back burner for a while longer!

Despite a few good trips to El Cogul and managing to do my long-term bouldering project at Mont-roig this month, my usual enthusiasm for climbing just hasn't been there recently. The only other highlights have been a decent day ticking off some of the new routes at Grau dels Masets Abaix in Siurana, and also a cool multipitch route at the extreme left hand end of La Mussara (sector Itaca).



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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Abbing down the superb 2nd pitch on 'Daima' (6c, 7a+, 7a, 7a+) at Sector Itaca, La Mussara - it's bigger than it looks here![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Nice traverse line - Arboli boulders[/td][/tr]

[/table]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Cool overhanging ramp thing at Arboli[/td][/tr]

[/table]

But all the while the weather has been quite simply superb....more or less wall to wall sunshine every day since Christmas! I was getting more and more frustrated at my lack of activity and also trying to force my climbing psyche to return, which just isn't right. So after a day of bushwhacking/climbing around Mont-ral, when I was actually getting more psyched by some of the awesome looking tracks around that area that you can see from the top of the routes, the decision was made...we left early and I went bike shopping!

And the first few rides out have been stunning. Surpassing my expectations even. It turns out that the Prades area, with its network of footpaths, forest and farm tracks criss-crossing the hills and crags, is actually as good for biking as it is for climbing...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sick gnarly off (tarmac) roading duuude. The old Montsant haunts in the background from when I was a climber![/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Good times in Font
10 April 2012, 11:46 am

Back from a superb week in Font. Good weather, good company, excellent gite, food, beer....happy days!

I wasn't as weak as I'd expected to be after several months of no climbing and I managed quite a few quality 7s at some of the more esoteric areas. I haven't been to Font for about four years and thought I'd exhausted most of the decent low 7s, but in reality there's a whole lot more to go at! And visiting the outlying areas we got a false sense of how quiet the forest was. We rarely shared the boulders with other groups and it wasn't until we popped in to Isatis for a few hours that you realise quite how manic it can be at the most popular crags at Easter.

Highlights for me were:-

- flashing 'Big Jim' (6c) at Petit Bois - contender for the best problem in Font.- 'Peter Pan' (7b/+) at Rocher du Mauvais Passage - well named and "Font in a nutshell"!- 'Le Calice' (7a) at Restant du Long Rocher.- 'Matador' (7a+) at Elephant nord - horror stories of Darren smashing his ankle on this a few years ago almost put me off but it turned out fine.- 'La fissure de droite' (7a) at Rocher d'Avon - not often you climb a strong line like this bouldering.- 'Megalight' (7b) at Rocher St. Germain. Sloper to sloper dyno at a superb peaceful crag.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Over the pyrenees...[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Font light...[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

La Riba without a rope
14 May 2012, 11:14 am

Since getting back from Font I've still mostly been biking, but on the climbing front I've been much more psyched for bouldering than routes. Unfortunately Catalunya isn't really known as a bouldering destination. In terms of sport climbing it's world class, but the bouldering is pretty limited. Thankfully there are one or two spots to head to, but it's a bit snowy in Cavallers and a bit hot in El Cogul at the moment, so when Pete reminded me about the stuff at La Riba I decided to have another look. I'd been once before a couple of years ago but I remember not really rating it and certainly didn't consider it worth going back to. Anyway, since the first re-visit about 3 weeks ago I've been back several times and done most of the easier classics and also have a few projects on the go. It's fair to say I quite like the place!

Here's my first attempt at an edited film, featuring one morning's circuit there. Only done with my compact camera so not exactly HD footage!



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Another video effort
21 May 2012, 10:25 pm

Nothing new, but here's a video of what was my long-term project at Mont-roig finally edited together.



Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

Summer hols, getting hitched & honeymoon!
24 October 2012, 10:14 am

Not much climbing to report from the last 5 months, as other things have taken precedence (mainly getting married and going to Canada for our honeymoon). Now that we're back in Spain and the temps are dropping then hopefully I'll be able to get back into it.

Just a few photos from the summer to follow, including some from Squamish (although not many action shots as we were mainly in the shade).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Traverse of the entire Montsant ridge in the saddle back in June.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Some cool single track along the top.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Then some walking and wild camping in the Pyrenees.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]And a trip to PortAventura to check out the new Shambhala ride.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Before it was time to head back to the UK, via the Padirac cave and Dordogne chateaus, in time for the wedding...[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Hitched.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]And then on to Vancouver for the honeymoon...[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]6 day sea kayaking trip off the north end of Vancouver Island, with a couple of nights either end in this lodge.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Then down to Victoria where the salmon were running.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]And to the Rockies for a few weeks. Moraine Lake.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Trainspotting.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]First bear sighting. Young black.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Canadian pests...cute though! Columbian Ground Squirrels were everywhere.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Classic Rockies - Peyto Lake.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]North Saskatchewan river valley.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Yoho NP - Lake O'Hara.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Then a brief stop in Whistler.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Before final destination Squamish for a week.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]1st summit of the Chief from the 2nd.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]First day climbing in about 3 months - bouldering to get the guns moving.

I managed the three classic V4s (Superfly, Easy in an Easy Chair, Sloppy Poppy) and Viper (V5).[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]And some bigger stuff (here Sunblessed 5.10b at Solarium).

Highlights were some great easy access cragging at the Smoke Bluffs. Flying Circus (5.10a), Smoke Bluff Connection (5.10a), Partners in Crime (5.11a), Centre Street & Supervalue (5.10c).

And of course the mega-classic Exasperator (5.10c) didn't disappoint.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Grand Wall via Apron Strings/Mercy Me start. Good route with some amazing pitches but a few too many bolts. And not good with a single set of cams with no big ones![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Probably my favourite route from the trip. The Great Game (5.10d) on "the Squaw".[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Another black bear in the Smoke Bluffs park early in the morning.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Then back over the Rockies to the UK for nephew's birthday before returning to Spain.

Six and a half weeks in Canada and only three half days of rain...sun blessed![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Back to biking in the Pyrenees.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Hopefully the next blog might even have some climbing in it!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

End of year round-up
21 December 2012, 9:03 am

With the summer heat lasting well into mid-October it was mostly biking after we returned to Spain, with a few great trips up to the Pyrenees.





Finally at the very end of October it started cooling down and I got back into climbing with a visit to Cubells, though it was a pretty humbling experience mainly climbing mid 6's and failing to on-sight 7a.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Cubells.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

In mid-November the rally came to town - first time I've been and it won't be the last!

from Ali K on Vimeo.

Slowly but surely from mid November onwards with a combination of bouldering, training at the wall and more regular visits out to the crags, the power started to trickle back into my arms!

from Ali K on Vimeo. Classic El Cogul problem.

And the publication of Pete's new guide to the area prompted visits to some new crags - mainly Llaberia, where the amount of virgin rock is truly astounding. And in the last few weeks it has seemed like we were the only climbers in Tarragona - every sector we've been to we were literally the only ones there! I dread to think what Siurana's been like during the same period.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Sector Al Lao Bacalao/Plaza les Coles at Llaberia. Home to only a handful of routes. All top quality so far.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Rififi au Tour de France' (7a+) at Cal Carboner, Llaberia.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Heatwave in December - waiting for the shade to come![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'La Reina de las Columnas' (8a) - THE best route I've done in ages, and probably one of the best of its grade in Tarragona. Amazing double drainpipe tufas.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Now looking forward to a week off over xmas to grow some skin back before 10 days over New Year in the Tremp area - Bruixes here we come!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

[comPiler]

The year so far...
25 January 2013, 11:28 am

So the new year didn't exactly start as planned! After the best part of 5 months off climbing over the summer I was really psyched to be getting some fitness back before the christmas break. It felt good to have projects again and get out climbing at every opportunity; especially as the weather was so good. And I was very keen to keep the momentum going after a short break and feasting in the UK...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Casa Mauri - home over New Year.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Santa Engracia.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]View south from Santa Engracia with the usual morning cloud inversion.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

The new year trip to Santa Engracia in the pre-Pyrenees started well, with a visit to Collegats sector Cine (like a mini Riglos). After this we had a day at Vilanova de Meia, which didn't quite go as planned. The aim was to get on 'Fase Terminal' - a classic 250m 7b - but to cut a long story short we got a bit lost, thought we were on the wrong route, abbed off, did a different route, only to find out we'd been on the right route in the first place. Oh well, one to go back for.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Musical Expres' - consolation prize after getting lost on plan A.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]View from the top.[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The next few days were spent getting beasted at Les Bruixes.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Before a snowy rest day up in the Aiguestortes National Park.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Estany Gran d'Amitges - frozen (hopefully).[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Then disaster struck - back at Bruixes I managed to dislocate my shoulder.

Lots of drugs, a general anaesthetic, and 9 hours in hospital saw my arm back in its socket![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The usual 3 week immobilization in sling was prescribed (followed by months of rehab!). And with the christmas heatwave continuing it was a good time for beer and sunbathing.[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Training one-armers. In Tash's fetching purple buffalo ;-)[/td][/tr]

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PROGRESS SINCE THEN HAS BEEN:-

- 5 days after dislocation - first unassisted shower!- 7 days after dislocation - arm came out of the sling, apart from when walking.- 10 days after dislocation - arm out of sling permanently.- 20 days after dislocation - FIRST CLIMB!! Top-roped a 6c+ at Masriudoms a few times and then led it. Was very tempted to continue up the 7c extension but was told in no uncertain terms that I was being ridiculous. Still, considering the arm's supposed to be in a sling I'm pretty happy with the progress so far. Rotator cuff strengthening here we go...

Source: Climbing in Catalunya

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Progress...
22 February 2013, 12:21 pm



Three weeks post-dislocation I did my first climb. It was a F6c+ at Masriudoms, which I top-roped a few times and then led. I was pretty happy with that, but it was a route I'd done literally hundreds of times before, either as a warm-up or to start the extensions that continue above. So I knew the route inside and out, knew that it had no awkward moves that would affect my then delicate shoulder. It was a good sign, and gave me a boost. I was a bit worried I'd overdone it and pushed too early but, in fact, the day after climbing my shoulder actually felt better. Less achy and more flexible. Again, a good sign. But I wasn't kidding myself that it meant that much. The real test would come when I started doing unknown routes again, with more awkward movements.

The next week we started getting out more regularly, but I was sticking to low 6's, and combining it with stretches and some very light rotator cuff exercises with a theraband.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]My new friend. Macho pink theraband (yes, the lightest resistance you can get!)[/td][/tr]

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The first sign of real progress came with a weekend trip up north to Ager. I managed to onsight 9 routes above 7a, including one 7b. However, following that weekend my shoulder was quite sore and clunky - maybe a sign I'd pushed it too far?

After that I eased off the climbing a little bit and concentrated on the stretches and theraband exercises. Progress with mobility and pain reduction was sporadic, and at times felt like it was going backwards. I found some new stretches to do though which seemed to help a lot, and that week managed to redpoint a 7b+ at La Mussara. The following week was much the same and I did another two 7b+'s. One in Siurana and the other at Llaberia. However, all the time it felt like my shoulder wasn't progressing as well as I'd like and I just couldn't trust my arm to stay in place. I had to be incredibly careful not to make any dynamic moves and it was seriously limiting me.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Blossom with the Llaberia cliffs behind.[/td][/tr]

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Yesterday seemed like a real milestone though. I woke up without as much of the usual shoulder stiffness. Pulling back the covers wasn't as painful as it normally was, and going through my morning stretching routine it felt like my shoulder had gained in strength significantly overnight. We headed up to Siurana and to sector Can Gans Dionis. My aim was to have a look at a 7c+ that I'd been saving the onsight on for years. In my current state I've decided to stop being so precious and just get some of the shorter, more bouldery old-school 7c/+ routes at Siurana ticked that I've been saving for the onsight. In hindsight this turned out to be a good choice of route. I would never have onsighted it. Flashed maybe, but onsight never. The climbing was just so unobvious.

Getting the draws in took well over an hour as I repeatedly flailed on several thin sections, especially in the top half. I finally reached the belay with sore feet and very little skin remaining, but at least I'd managed all the moves. I left the rope in, just intending to top-rope it and try to link some sections. After a long rest though I decided I'd be better on the sharp end and gave it a go. Despite messing up in a number of places and getting myself completely wrong-handed at one point I surprised myself by scraping my way up it first redpoint.

So F7c+ done exactly 7 weeks post-dislocation. All hail the theraband!

Source: Climbing in Catalunya