[shark]

Hi wsmith

 

Good to climb with you on Sat. How do you find the jump on Rumble?. Do you train with Alex Fry ?

[shark]

Is that a route that would once have had a critical peg but now doesn't? I am sure it was E1 or E2 BITD.

I did this in 2005 and got the fear and then when putting it in the UKC logbook discovered I'd done it already in 1996 - clearly unmemorably. I assumed in the intervening years I'd turned into a wuss.

[duncan]

I did this in 2005 and got the fear and then when putting it in the UKC logbook discovered I'd done it already in 1996 - clearly unmemorably. I assumed in the intervening years I'd turned into a wuss.

Award yourself a grey-point.

Is that a route that would once have had a critical peg but now doesn't? I am sure it was E1 or E2 BITD.

I think it was E2 in the Monks guide (the same guide had Quick Flash at HVS; it's now E5).  It was cover star of the Drummond guide and Ed. was clearly very proud of his creation.   It has a bolt-protected 5c move followed by a thought provoking 5b section.  E3 for the 5b bit.  Brilliant archetypal Avon groovy scariness, falling off near the top might well be your Last Slip.   I must go back and do it again next time the gorge is closed. 

[iain]

It has a bolt-protected 5c move followed by a thought provoking pant filling 5b section.  E3 for the 5b death on a stick bit.  Brilliant archetypal Avon groovy scariness, falling off near the top might well be your Last Slip.   I must go back and do it flirt with death again next time the gorge is closed. 

 

 

I'll stick to routes with gear thanks, I'm too much of a wuss to learn how to do stuff like that now. A route I'd feel no shame doing on second.

[i_a_coops]

M
T - Arsed around on plastic bloc before a disastrous aerocap session.
W
T - Very similar to Wednesday, except I climbed better and found myself suddenly able to do both V8s so ticked all the bouldering now. Terrible aerocap session.
F
S - Curbar, puntered up Trackside, Gorilla Warfare + Early Doors. Rain forced retreat to the Tor, got schooled on Short Chimes.
S - Cuttings. Flailed on Breathing Method. Just about managed each move through the crux section individually, must have bad beta for the last hard move though as it felt fully 7B/+ in its own right, let alone having just done all the gaston-tastic lurching around beforehand.

Psyched to get back on Short Chimes with a bit more skin.

For some reason my aerocap regime seems to have crashed and burned, I got turbopumped from 10 min on jugs on a vertical wall both times this week? While last week I was after for 25 minutes mainly on steeper ground. Off to Chorro next Saturday, this does not bode well.

[Three Nine]

You should have done all your aerocap by now Ian. Your base training should be long past and you should be getting your taper on!

[wsmith]

Hi wsmith

 

Good to climb with you on Sat. How do you find the jump on Rumble?. Do you train with Alex Fry ?

Hi
For me the jump was the second hardest move on Rumble, the hardest being the move to the sloper. Need to sort some decent foot beta though! Im sure the jump will be the redpoint crux.
I dont train with Alex but am friends with him and have been on a few trips with him. Hes not at warwick these days, hes now at the northampton wall which get over too when possible as its far better than warwick!
Will

[shark]

Another....

Care to spill the beans on what, if any, training your dad does....