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La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp (Read 2873 times)

ali k

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La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 29, 2011, 10:40:14 pm
Just been to La Riba for the first time today and did some of the competition routes at Xina sector - if you forgive the abuse of the rock the routes are actually pretty good! It's a long shot I know but does anyone have any info about the comp that was held there? Am I right in thinking Jerry won that one? Anyone know which particular routes were used?

Would be cool to know a bit more of the history than just the brief mention in Jerry's book.

Not holding out much hope for a response!

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 29, 2011, 10:46:31 pm

Comp at La Riba c88 maybe by mrjonathanr, on Flickr

I was just passing through with some Spanish climbers, stayed one night and don't remember much, certainly not who won the comp. They had floodlights on two identical artificial walls set up at night in a square in town for the speed comp, with a bell at the top of each one, think Jingus Karn won it - but it might have been Boone Speed. Or possibly someone else, my memory is a little hazy.

I do recall Ron Kauk arriving in a car bursting with Spanish, loud music and some sort of incense cloud - I think. I say arriving at the crag, more like crashing recklessly as a stopping strategy. Seem to work, amid a lot of laughter.

I watched a bit of the comp proper, but don't remember seeing any Brits climb, then we moved on to Montserrat.

That's the best I can do, hope that gives some sort of picture of events.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 10:58:41 pm by mrjonathanr »

ali k

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#2 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 29, 2011, 10:53:33 pm
That's amazing! I did that route this morning. Jocs de llit 7c. Is that Jerry climbing? Any more where that came from?!  :bounce:

mrjonathanr

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#3 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 29, 2011, 11:00:30 pm
Sorry no, think my edit ^ is about all I can muster, glad to be of some help  :)

ali k

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#4 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 30, 2011, 08:26:29 am
Thanks anyway - definitely wasn't expecting a pic from the comp! Amazing what people have in their collections.

Anyone know any more information, results, interesting anecdotes?

ianv

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#5 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 30, 2011, 09:31:10 am
I think that picture is from 88 as the shirts were white in 89.

The 88 comp had the final on holds bolted to the castle walls. I think Jerry won.

The comp in 89 was on rock for the qualifier (7b+/7c) and then on a wall for the semis and finals. Both Jerry and Simon flashed the final route and then had to do a superfinal that was about 7b+ and so effectively became a speed climb. Cant remember many results but Jerry won, simon second, me 10th (went totally off route) and Jason Myers 15th. Mark Dellifield, Mark Leach and Pete Gomersall were there as well. I think Mark Leach also made the semis.

The speed climbing comp was in a church at night under floodlights. Very atmospheric.


ali k

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#6 Re: La Riba 1989 World Cup Comp
November 30, 2011, 10:29:30 am
Good anecdotes - I didn't realise there was more than one comp there.

A bit of google research reveals that Jim Karn was the first American to win a comp event at La Riba in 1988 - so your memory isn't so bad!

 

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