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Couple of Churnet Questions (Read 1713 times)

Rice Boy

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Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 12:37:45 pm
Long overdue first visit over the weekend, really enjoyed the varied climbing and was pleasantly surprised by the lack of scrit/litter/people/midges.

Questions.
Is Pine buttress the epitome of sandbagging? Should the 6's be 7's? Once of the ground how/where does the 6a+ go?

Is the top hold of High Imp Act good or does that top more want to be in control was too fearful/knackered by the time I got there. Thought this was hard work, if nothing else, for the grade esp considering the 6c's at Gentlemans.

Thanks in advance for answering these probably obtuse questions.

AndiT

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#1 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 12:43:48 pm
Which others are you comparing High Speed Imp Act too? Do you really want to know what the top hold is like, that'll spoil the fun surely....

What is Pine Buttress?

Glad you had a good time, it's a great place.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 12:47:39 pm
I'm pretty sure the probs on the LHS of Pine Buttress use the big footledge hence the grade

Somebody's Fool

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#3 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 12:50:41 pm
Pine Buttress is the right-hand one at Cottage Rocks isn't it?  From my hazy memory they were hard for the grade, but not outrageously so.

Like Johnny Brown said in another thread, most grit/sandstone things aren't going to feel the 'right' grade during these unseasonally balmy times.

AndiT

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#4 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 01:14:23 pm
Oh yeah, Cottage Rocks. It makes a big difference whether you use the ledge underneath or not but as it doesn't really start or finish anywhere it's difficult to count in or out. I try to put my feet right at the back, but even still it's contrived at best. The right hand lines can be started with your feet heel hooking the lip, so you don't need to worry with them so much.

Rice Boy

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#5 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 01:46:45 pm
Thanks for the responses.

Although balmy, conditions felt ok on Pine wall. Still being properly spanked is as good a reason as any to go back and lose some more skin.

AndiT. Good point about High Imp Act would be spoiling the fun. It's up there with Tierdrop as a final hold teaser/frightner. Point about the 6c's was that they all felt more towards the easier end of the grade. Mind you a grade and a half is a fair difference.

Will definitely return, tis beautiful down there.

AndiT

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#6 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 01:59:28 pm
Well, I'll tell you this: The hold on top of Tierdrop is not dis-similar to the hold on High Speed Imp Act. They are completely different in shape, but same in positive/negativeness (not to give anything away).

Rice Boy

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#7 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 17, 2007, 02:09:43 pm
I see  8). Was only curious as the guide describes the hold at the end of the green curd mono problem as jugs, I felt in-cut knife edge better described them.

AndiT

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#8 Re: Couple of Churnet Questions
April 18, 2007, 12:06:51 pm
I felt in-cut knife edge better described them.

Yes, that is a Churnet jug. A Chug.

 

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