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Carrock Fell Lean-to boulder "problem 5" (Read 2792 times)

tc

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Carrock Fell Lean-to boulder "problem 5"
October 16, 2011, 02:10:52 pm
This is the RH sit start to the "Cave Route", starting on the big sidepull on the right. Has anyone out there done this? I understand Gaskins did the first ascent but I don't know of anyone else who's done it. I've been trying it on and off for years but can't seem to get anywhere on it. It's given V8 in the Argos Catalogue but if it is V8 I'm going to give up bouldering.

tc

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Anyone? Greg? Dan? Nigel? Hock?

Nigel

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Alright Tim, hope you're well. I couldn't bear to see you talking to yourself (!), so in reply yes, I have tried it, once. Did I do it - I honestly can't remember, it was so long ago. Even if I didn't do it then I definitely did the moves. It is hard to recall but I seem to remember getting a very, very high right heel on a poor ripple and being able to do some moves off this, perhaps this will help? I am pretty flexible though and have relatively long legs so maybe this won't work? I do recall the whole thing feeling unlikely! Can't remember thoughts RE grade, so this either implies a) I did it and agreed with V8, or b) I didn't do it and I haven't a clue (but would like to think this means its >V8). Helpful eh?! Lets go for b) then you don't give up climbing.

Hock is tearing Yosemite a new one at the mo so doubt you'll hear from him.

Doylo

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Alright Tim, hope you're well. I couldn't bear to see you talking to yourself (!), so in reply yes, I have tried it, once. Did I do it - I honestly can't remember, it was so long ago. Even if I didn't do it then I definitely did the moves. It is hard to recall but I seem to remember getting a very, very high right heel on a poor ripple and being able to do some moves off this, perhaps this will help? I am pretty flexible though and have relatively long legs so maybe this won't work? I do recall the whole thing feeling unlikely! Can't remember thoughts RE grade, so this either implies a) I did it and agreed with V8, or b) I didn't do it and I haven't a clue (but would like to think this means its >V8). Helpful eh?! Lets go for b) then you don't give up climbing.

Hock is tearing Yosemite a new one at the mo so doubt you'll hear from him.

In between getting lowered off el cap unconcious...

boulderingrichy

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#4 Re: Carrock Fell Lean-to boulder "problem 5"
November 14, 2011, 10:01:36 pm
Hey Tim yeah i have ticked it, took a couple of sessions mind  :( ... from what i remember

start on the good side pull, pulled up through the two holds in the cave on that last one move your feet out and get your LF outside edge on something mid height between the ground and the big sidepull? RF will flag out against something

then this was the key bit for me lock your right arm off at 90 and push as much with your left leg much as possible (technically pushing your body up some)

then i brought my LH out and caught the good diagonal edge on the headwall feet should stay put and you then should be able to slowly match the edge with both hands and pop up left for the good arete

Hope that makes some sense ... its powerful andl the LH even more so


boulderingrichy

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#5 Re: Carrock Fell Lean-to boulder "problem 5"
November 14, 2011, 10:29:55 pm
Not sure how to post a pic but have one if it will help explain the above

Enjoy

slackline

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#6 Re: Carrock Fell Lean-to boulder "problem 5"
November 15, 2011, 08:43:55 am
Not sure how to post a pic but have one if it will help explain the above

Enjoy

See this on the Wiki

 

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