[ali k]

The Mrs posted something on the other channel but no response so thought I'd try on here. Just trying to get an idea of how much dollar to change for a xmas trip to Jordan.

Think the visa, hotels, entrance fees etc are all pretty easy to find but has anyone been recently and can confirm that these estimates are still reasonable?

Bus from Amman to Aqaba – 20 JD (one way)
Taxi from Aqaba to Wadi Rum – 25 JD (one way)
Taxi all the way from Amman airport to Wadi Rum – 100 JD (one way)
Taxi from Wadi Rum to Barrah Canyon – 45 JD one way (this she found on a website but it seems a bit pricey compared to other taxis)
Campsite Wadi Rum - 3 JD per night - per tent or person?
Food – 10 JD a day each for eating out?

[duncan]

Taxi from Wadi Rum to Barrah Canyon – 45 JD one way (this she found on a website but it seems a bit pricey compared to other taxis)  This is all off road using 4x4s.  Historically a certain amount of price-fixing may have operated, but I'm sure that in the depths of winter and if the low visitor numbers post Arab spring still apply it should be possible to do a deal

Food – 10 JD a day each for eating out?  More if you eat at the resthouse and drink alcohol; just about do-able if you go to one of the other perfectly fine local alteratives and drink tea.

[chriss]

I went to Jordan a month or so ago. I was ace, price wise you can do it on the cheap. Think the current rough guide has some good info, well worth blagging a look.

Edit, Jordan isn't the sort of country to haggle in, they find it rude, so the price the ask is the price they ask. Also you & in particular your Mrs would be looked on favourably if you kept covered up, not very British, but you will earn the respect of the locals. 

[chriss]

Edit, Jordan isn't the sort of country to haggle in, they find it rude, so the price the ask is the price they ask.

You're kidding, right? There are no fixed prices for anything in this part of the world.

If you do a bit of reading the people of Jordan are quite humble, it's just us arrogant westerners who like to generalise. Anyway I'm not keen for a 'fact off' on this one, all I can say is from what I read and experienced Jordan is an amazing country well worth a visit.

[pete D]

Was there last week. Had a brilliant time. Very friendly people everywhere and in Wadi Rum especially so.

Rest house campsite costs:

2 JD per night each with own tent.
3 JD per night each using one of the in situ tents.

Recommend Ali's place just up the road for breakfast (2JD each) and dinner (4JD each).

The taxi prices you list seem more or less in line with what we paid.

4x4 taxis into the desert are the biggest expense. It's worth trying to share lifts with other climbers if possible to spread the cost. Failing that go into somewhere like Barrah Canyon and camp for a day or two.

Well stocked shops in Rum village.

Recommend atleast one day in Aquaba to go snorkelling (6JD to hire). Would highly recommend a place called Bedouin Garden City (camping & rooms) about 10km down the coast and right next to the beach. Nice atmosphere, friendly staff, cheap.

Hope that helps.

[ali k]

Thanks guys - all good info.

Out of interest, what are people's thoughts on Petra? Overhyped tourist trap or unmissable wonder of the world? Just read somewhere that it now costs 50JD to get in!

[chriss]

Dude, please don't take it personally.

As I understand this is a forum right, so one is supposed to express a personal view of said topic. I'm not dissing or trying to devalue your comments, just saying how I got on, what I saw, who I met & all that shizzle.

I'm offering the olive branch here, wasn't spooling for a fight.

Edit.

We did Petra, got there for opening at 6am. Yeah it's expensive, but personally thought it was amazing to see. You can even pretend to be Indie....

[pete D]

We spent 2 days in Petra. Go early and one day is enough IMO. As you would expect it is touristy and there are a lot of people but it is very worthwhile and once you get past the siq and the treasury (indy bit) it is actually a very big site and quite easy to get away from the crowds. We had a lot of fun following nabatean steps up various gullies and cliff faces. I wanted to repeat Mick Folwer's adventure following the wadi down to the Dead Sea Highway but I couldn't convince my girlfriend! The lonely planet guide mentions a good alternative route into Petra (only if you've already been thru the siq), which goes thru a tunnel and along a slot canyon. We were stopped from doing this by the tourist police (said we needed a guide) but there is no one to stop you at the other end, so we came out this way instead. Don't do this if there is any likelihood of rain!

Don't think it was as much as 50JD, I think it was 26JD per day but I might be wrong. Don't think there is anywhere to camp either, so you'll have to fork out for a hotel if staying overnight.

Some of the other climbers we spoke to in Wadi Rum visited Petra in one day from Wadi Rum as a rest day activity.

[Durbs]

We didn't make it to Wadi Rum, but Petra blew us away.

I can't remember specifics, but a 2-day pass was only about 25% more than a one day pass and 2 days was about perfect. Lots of time to explore the incredible hidden paths up behind the temples, and means you can save the longer hikes (to the "monastery") for first thing the next day and beat both the heat and crowds.
Staying in the nearby Wadi Musa means you can linger in Petra long after the crowds have left - so we got to experience (and photograph) the "treasury" without anyone else there, and head up to the the "altar" to watch the sunset, with nothing but friends for company.
The alternative route in/out made for a good scramble. I think out is better than in, partly because you kind of need to do the siq walk and get the treasury view, but also route finding and scrambling was easier coming out than going in.

(Speech marks used for place names as none of them were actually used for what they're called...)

[ali k]

Staying in the nearby Wadi Musa means you can linger in Petra long after the crowds have left - so we got to experience (and photograph) the "treasury" without anyone else there, and head up to the the "altar" to watch the sunset

So what's the deal with them 'kicking you out' at the end of the day? They open at 6am, but how do they then get everyone out at the end of the day? If you can stay on to watch the sunset I'd be more inclined to stay overnight in Petra.

My understanding is they have a rather complex pricing structure based on the origin of the visitor, with a special emphasis on overcharging people from Jordan's bullying neighbour to the immediate west.

Yeh, I understand that it's 50JD a day if you're staying overnight in Jordan and 90JD if not, in order to 'penalize' day trippers from Israel.

[Durbs]

Staying in the nearby Wadi Musa means you can linger in Petra long after the crowds have left - so we got to experience (and photograph) the "treasury" without anyone else there, and head up to the the "altar" to watch the sunset

So what's the deal with them 'kicking you out' at the end of the day? They open at 6am, but how do they then get everyone out at the end of the day? If you can stay on to watch the sunset I'd be more inclined to stay overnight in Petra.

Yeah, not sure to be honest - the only thing that made us leave was
a) it was getting pretty dark (no lighting at all on site)
b) it was also getting pretty chilly
c) wanting dinner and a bed after a long days walking.
We didn't see any security or suchlike ensuring people left, though I'd assume they had some kind of check - there's offices and restaurants inside the site so it's not completely devoid of people (a few bedouins live on and around the site).

[chriss]

It was 50JD for the day pass no questions asked about where we were from, staying etc, but we hardly looked Israeli.

You can also get a pass for a few days, which is a bit cheaper. I'm pretty sure they do night time guided tours, so that's probably why the gates were still open.   

[tomtom]

This thread has got me thinking about going to Jordan on a Holiday - more than a climbing Hol. It could solve the anual TT & MrsTT holiday wranglings... (especially if theres scope for a day or two of gentle climbage!)

So some idiot questions - whats the best time of year to head there - and any general thoughts on its viability as a holiday place?

(I'm not into beaches - it being too hot (e.g mid-high 30's so probably not in the peak of summer!) but am quite happy with touring around - a few sights, natural wonders etc..)

[Oldmanmatt]

+1 on Oman, friendliest locals I've met anywhere. Drive like lunatics though..
Beautiful place esp. Sallala. Sink holes, climbing, mountains, wadis and great diving/snorkling.

[tomtom]

Thanks Gents - I shall look into Oman... especially mid winter.. and run it past the commander in cheif  If nothing else it will give MrsTT the impression that I am 1. creative and 2. caring about her holiday needs - though its partly about getting credits in the 'can I go climbing' bank

[ali k]

Another vote for Oman from me as a purely holiday destination - stunning place!

As for Jordan, one final question. What are the walks like from Rum village to the base of some of the more outlying routes? I was thinking specifically Lionheart, The Beauty and La Guerre Sainte. Is it just a 20 min walk or more epic and needing transport or camping closer the night before?

[duncan]

Another vote for Oman from me as a purely holiday destination - stunning place!

As for Jordan, one final question. What are the walks like from Rum village to the base of some of the more outlying routes? I was thinking specifically Lionheart, The Beauty and La Guerre Sainte. Is it just a 20 min walk or more epic and needing transport or camping closer the night before?

Lionheart: about 20 minute walk to base, then about 30 minutes steeply up to the route's start (follow the cairns very carefully as themost direct approach has some especially heinous scrambling).
The Beauty: long 4x4 ride (20km?) direct to start of route
La GS: short 4x4 ride (5-10km) direct to start of route AFAIK ... walkable from the village for the tight, maybe?

La Guerre Sainte was about 20 mins drive, so 2-3 hours walk?   
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5224255
[LGS location approximate]

[ali k]

Re: The Beauty - you had me worried then. Hadn't banked on a 4x4 drive there! Though an hour walk is longer than I'd expected, so worth knowing.

Re: La GS - I forgot it was all the way over the other side of the lump. 4x4 the day before and camp at base probably best for that one then.

Really hope it's not going to be too cold...

[ali k]

Just a quick update on prices now we're back.

Overall the trip was without doubt one of the best I've been on, and due to the fact that Rum, Petra, and the whole desert experience is so incredible the climbing just felt like an added extra. It certainly wasn't 'just another' climbing trip. We had 12 days in Jordan but only 8 full days in Wadi Rum due to travel to/from airport and 2 days in Petra.

Weather was amazing for virtually the whole trip. We had a few cloudy days but only one afternoon of rain (still managed to climb in the morning). Temps in the sun were pretty ideal and chilly in the shade, but nights were cold. A few nights we had frost on the tent in the morning. Overall though I can't complain. The only limitation was the short days. Light from 6am-5pm but it goes from dusk to pitch black within 10-15 mins.

Prices we paid were:

Taxi Amman airport to Amman downtown - 20 JD
Palace Hotel in Amman - 30 JD (bit of a dive so wouldn't recommend it)
Bus from Amman to Aqaba – 7.5 JD (one way on the JETT bus - DON'T buy a coffee on the bus!)
Taxi from Aqaba to Wadi Rum – 20 JD but make sure they drop you in the village not the visitors centre gate.
Entrance fee to Wadi Rum - 5 JD
Wadi Rum to Barrah Canyon – 60 JD return. Worth it just for the drive!
Resthouse 'Campsite' Wadi Rum - 2 JD per night with own tent, 3 JD in the Resthouse tents. The camping area / toilet block is a total shit hole but the showers were hot at least and they didn't seem fussed if you paid or not when using own tent!
Food – 8 JD for a meal in Resthouse, 5 JD in Ali's place (but this was closed for most of our trip as the guy was covering for one of the shop owners who was ill!). A new place opened on the day we left, which looked nice but we didn't have chance to eat there.
Bus to Petra from Wadi Rum - 5 JD.
Petra - 55JD for two days - worth staying for a couple of days to explore the site properly and amazingly it was actually better than I expected. Totally blew me away, and normally I'm not fussed about stuff like that.
Hotel in Petra - we stayed in the "Cleopetra" in Wadi Musa - 20JD a night - nice family run place and Mosleh the owner is a top bloke.
Taxi from Petra to Amman airport - 20 JD. The 'first price' is way more than this but if you hang around the bus station waiting for a bus you'll get loads of drivers offering lifts and prices steadily come down the more times you refuse the offer. Think it started off at 60! Our lift was arranged through the hotel owner who contacted some drivers that were dropping people off in Petra and were returning to Amman so good deal for both parties.

Climbing we did was:

Inferno, Lionheart, Merlin's Wand, and Rumeurs de la Pluie, but the standout route was La Guerre Sainte. Good rock on the whole and not as hard as I'd expected but long and with 11-12 abseils the descent takes time. To get back down in the light we opted just to ab from the end of the proper climbing at the top of the headwall instead of going to the summit which was a shame, but felt the right thing at the time due to the worrying potential for rope snags when pulling the ropes (made worse by the strong winds towards the top). The "Climb or go home" pitch is well named. HUGE runouts so unless you're confident at that grade it would be the stopper pitch for sure. We walked round to GS as the drivers wanted to charge the same for that as to Barrah canyon, but in the end it was only 1h30 of pretty flat walking to the base of the route so easily do-able and we stayed for 2 nights.

When I've sorted photos I'll update the blog with a trip report.

[jwi]

Three French climbers dead in Wadi Rum http://www.lefigaro.fr/flash-actu/2014/03/08/97001-20140308FILWWW00080-mort-de-trois-grimpeurs-francais-en-jordanie.php