[Paul B]

It looks like Nat and I still have a week of holiday left to take before the end of Dec. Rather than spend extra Christmas time at her folks place () I thought it might be worth seeing where we could get away climbing.

Given we've just returned from 3 weeks in the Verdon, we're fairly fit for big routes but fairly weak for hard sport and certainly nowhere near strong enough to consider a bouldering trip. Hence the bigger the better really. So far I haven't got much past Vilanova de Meia but I was there in November before and it was pretty chilly and the descent was fairly dodgy in the icy conditions.

Any ideas?

Also I'd rather not end up somewhere thats crawling with people either (:humbug:).

[SA Chris]

Riglos? Might be a bit chilly tho', I think it's quite high.

Todra in Morocco?

[Paul B]

I did think of Riglos but it'd only really be for Fiesta as I've done a handful of routes there already and they all started to blend together.

[SA Chris]

I guess when you've pulled on one potato you've pulled on them all.

On a smaller scale, but felt the same with Maple Canyon.

[duncan]

The perpetual dilemma of what to do at Christmas...

I thought Todra was a bit meh, thought I didn't do any of the multi-pitch routes which apparently transcend a rather scruffy location.  Morocco itself is a fabulous country and Arab Spring-related nervousness should make this year a cheap and quiet time to go.  Many people seem keen on the quartzite trad. around the Anti Atlas / Tafraoute.

Riglos will be cold unless the weather is very unseasonal.

Aiglun looks promising, not been, said to be OK over winter but my experience is that S. France is never that warm at Christmas.

John Gillott assures me that it is possible to escape the general awfulness of the Costa Blanca.  To be fair to him, the one route I've done on the Penon had pretty decent climbing and looks out to sea.

I'm possibly going back to Sicily for New Year, which has some decent climbing including multi-pitch stuff.  An interesting place to visit as well (though the interesting bits and the climbing bits tend to be on different parts of the island).

I hear December is peak season in the UAE!

[chillax]

I spent last christmas in Todra, and would agree with Duncan about it being a bit meh. We did a couple of the easier multipitch things (7 or 8 pitches) and one of the "classics" along with some single pitch sport. Good holiday as I'd never been to africa before so it was nice to experience the culture. Wouldn't go back though as the climbing wasn't that inspiring.

Theres also the Wadi Rum? Considering it for christmas myself, if my bank balance allows it.

[duncan]

Theres also the Wadi Rum? Considering it for christmas myself, if my bank balance allows it.

Rum is fabulous, I was there this March with OI#2.  World-class, somewhat adventurous, trad. climbing and a few sport-routes including the amazing-looking La Guerre Sainte.  Fabulous environment away from the rather flea-bitten village.   Very quiet right now but not cheap (how much for a beer?).  Not warm in early March.  People do climb there in winter but I'd think it would be very cold.

[Paul B]

the other thing is thats if its purely trad the grade will have to plummet or else I have to lead everything. Given how much quicker we moved on this trip (probably thanks to stressing about it for a month or so leading up to the trip), I'm loathed to go backwards. I'd rather wait (long term Yosemite planning in mind).

[Marky]

We were in Terradets last year at New Year and it was perfect although maybe we were lucky, but going again this year so hope not. Climbed at Vilanova de Meia on New Years Eve and had a great day on Imagines in the sun. Loads of other stuff in new Lleida guide around there too. Was almost too hot one day on Bruixes wall and then locals were building fires at the base of Bruixes the next day so pot luck I guess!

[Paul B]

Wow, I've just checked out both videos of Ali baba, wow. I noticed that not many of the routes say    équipée so I wonder how much scope there'd be for us....

Its not far from the Gorge either.

[Paul B]

It seems accommodation is the main sticking point at Aiglun, either doss in the car park or pay rather a lot for the local Auberge (it looks nice and the food looks good too). We're thinking of chalking this one up for March instead.

We've just gone ahead and booked flights to BCL and accommodation nearby Vilanova de Meia and Terradets. Does anyone have any route recommendations for VdM? We've only done the one route (musical express)? Someone has recommended the POD Lleida climbs guide but at £27.95 I'm loathed to buy another guide to the area.

[abarro81]

You can borrow my Lleida Climbs guide if you want Paul. You down the Foundry any evening this week?

[Paul B]

Probably Tues then Wed or Thurs. I'd love to take you up on that offer, I take it you'll be down deadhanging to spare the wounded leg?

[abarro81]

Yeah, should be down tomorrow (but leaving fairly early) plus weds and thurs so no doubt will see you on one of those days, I'll stick the guide in my bag.
Leg is doing well actually - can climb stuff so long as it's close to the floor and doesn't involve heels or rockovers so will be setting some traverses along the bottom of the board!

[ali k]

For Roca dels Arcs 'El Senyor de los Bordillos' is quite nice. Quite similar to 'Musical Express' though (hardest bit right at start then much easier).

POD recommended 'Fase Terminal' for something harder, though we didn't get on it last time we were there. 7b crux pitch on nice looking steep orange rock.

Both these routes are in the Lleida climbs book. Watch the descent down the back in mid winter - it was nasty last time we went after it had snowed plus final 10m was ice sheet that we had to slide down to get to road.

Most memorable route I did at VdM was 'Amadeus' up at Roca Alta. Bit more of an approach and only 3 pitches (the first being a shit 5). But the 2nd and particularly final pitch (7a) are AMAZING. Way better rock than Roca dels Arcs. This route isn't in Lleida climbs but in definitive local one - front cover pic! Guide says to take some rack to fill in gaps between bolts but I didn't end up placing anything

photo here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=165897

[ali k]

just re-read OP so you know about the descent already! 

we're off to Jordan over xmas/new year. booked it when flights were less than £100 return but now worried it's gonna be too cold. we shall see!

[Paul B]

Thanks, there might be the option of abbing off and staying on the warm side of things instead of the iced descent but I'm not certain. I've got the little definitive guide so I'll take a look at your suggestions, thanks.

[Paul B]

just re-read OP so you know about the descent already! 

For the benefit of anyone searching in the future. The "follow obvious paths, 20 mins" descent was like dicing with death as expected and the only way I can see it being 20 minutes is if you walk for 19, then trip on an iced root, falling to your death in approximately one minute. The "descend rocky gully" on the other side, was however, a piece of p*ss.

I have to say that I wasn't that impressed by the Lleida climbs book in terms of detail and accuracy for the climbs on Roca del Arcs (we weren't the only people feeling this way either). I'd recommend using the local guide instead (or as well). However, I've heard the POD guide is great for other venues and has opened up a lot of interest in the like of Collgats (anyone been?).

Conditions were fairly decent with the cloud inversion ending at the base of the cliff, the one day it didn't was pretty freezing.

A final plug: We stayed here, and the folks that run it were genuinely nice people (they'd left us some food in case we hadn't had time to eat after a late flight as well as red, white and a large bottle of beer as they didn't know what we drunk!).

The gite is down an un-made route about 15 mins away for the climbing (not far from Terradets either); not a problem if you're in a hire car.